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The Room Mclaren

post #1 of 59
8/17/11 at 8:03am
Thread Starter 

Well, here goes attempt # 2. Attempt # 1 didn't get off the ground and I ended up selling the house. I previously started a thread called the ragged edge theater back in 09, but now, I'm calling it The Room McLaren. McLaren is my favorite F1 race team, so hence the name. I also like the team colors, so I'm going to try to incorporate those colors/theme in the theater.

My wife and I just had a baby boy, so I'm motivated to get this done, howevaaahh, it's going to be awhile before this is complete, so Logan me now!

I have a mish mosh of equipment I've gathered over the years, not worth detailing. I will be buying a PJ, likely the PT-AE4000U. The rooms rough dimensions are 14.5' x 25', but I believe I may be able to get another 14" -24" of width, we'll see when I demo the room. I haven't done much planning yet for the screen size, but 120" from 14' away is what I'm hoping for. I want to do a AT scope screen with false wall, but we'll see how the budget goes. I plan for only 1 row of seating right now.

I'm combining 2 existing rooms in the basement, which were "finished" by the previous owner. There are no windows. I plan to remove the drywall, keeping the framing if it's decent. Soundproofing will be a big part of this, as the family room where the wife hangs out is right above the HT and has 4 supply vents crossing the HT ceiling. I'll likely need to demo a hole in part of the concrete wall to install a return and also tap into the existing supply.

I've read the thread on SP, but I'm not sure how to deal with the 4 supply vents in the ceiling. Should I replace them with flex duct and insulate, along with doing the normal DD/GG/clips on the ceiling and walls?

I'll have to build a dropped soffit on the right side of the room to match the one on the left containing the supply vent. I'll also build boxes for the recessed lights.

Since there's already recessed lighting and outlets in the rooms, I should only need 1 electrical run for the rack, which I may move to the back of the room, if I can get rid of the existing closet to gain that extra 14-24" width. If not I'll just install it in that closet.

Overall, it's by no means fancy as what I've seen here, but I think it'll be nice. Here's a view of what's existing. I'll post pics shortly.


Here's the basis for the room theme. I'm thinking dark grey walls, with white trim/wainscotting and black/red details. Looking for suggestions here!


I recently redid the kitchen, here are a couple before/after pics if anyone's interested.



So, thanks for looking, and thank you for the great resource here, I wouldn't even think about this if it wasn't for AVS!


Edited by ragged - 12/31/12 at 4:36am
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post #2 of 59
8/17/11 at 8:54am
Quote:


I've read the thread on SP, but I'm not sure how to deal with the 4 supply vents in the ceiling. Should I replace them with flex duct and insulate, along with doing the normal DD/GG/clips on the ceiling and walls?

Do these ducts supply conditioned air to the theater space? If that's the case, you will need to research "dead vents." Ted White's website has an excellent article: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...the_dead_vent/
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post #3 of 59
8/17/11 at 9:07am
Nice job on the kitchen. Man that thing was fugley. What's with the stripes on the floor? Yikes.
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post #4 of 59
8/17/11 at 9:50am
Wait a minute - is the top photo before or after??

Just kidding. That kitchen looks amazing - very well done!
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post #5 of 59
8/17/11 at 10:32am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Do these ducts supply conditioned air to the theater space? If that's the case, you will need to research "dead vents." Ted White's website has an excellent article: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...the_dead_vent/

The 4 ducts supply the room above. I'll have to tap into the main trunk on the left of the room to supply the HT, so I'm guessing I'll have to soundproof the hell out of the 4 vents and build a dead vent in the dropped soffit on the left. Well, considering the room in below grade, it stays pretty cool down there all summer, but get's cold in the winter, maybe I can get away with just a return air vent? Any thoughts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Nice job on the kitchen. Man that thing was fugley. What's with the stripes on the floor? Yikes.

Thanks! It took a lot of convincing the wife to "see past the stripes" when we 1st looked at it. The floor was vinyl tile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Wait a minute - is the top photo before or after??
Just kidding. That kitchen looks amazing - very well done!

HA! Thanks, it was fun.

Here are some pics of the existing space.

Looking at the entry.


This is the wall between the 2 rooms that's coming down.


Future screen wall. You can see the main trunk in the upper left hand.


Back wall of the theater and exit.
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post #6 of 59
8/17/11 at 10:34am
by looking at your new kitchen I am sure you will have an awesome HT looking forward to see this
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post #7 of 59
8/17/11 at 10:37am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdong View Post

by looking at your new kitchen I am sure you will have an awesome HT looking forward to see this

Thanks man. I hope so, the kitchen was easy, cabinets covered up my sketchy drywalling.
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post #8 of 59
8/17/11 at 1:55pm
Ragged, feel free to send me a PM with your email address and I can forward you a few other articles on ventilation
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post #9 of 59
8/21/11 at 8:23pm
Ragged the current thinking on duct work that passes above a theater is to stop the sound before it gets to the ductwork. Use Teds recommended clips/channel/ DDW and GG ceiling designs and surround the duct work with fiberglass insulation. Flex ducts can be used but it adds resistance to the airflow and will reduce your overall system efficiency.

You can also add mass to the metal ducts with various duck wrap products to help them resist picking up sounds.

Duct work servicing the theater is another issue all together.
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post #10 of 59
8/24/11 at 10:01am
Thread Starter 
Thanks Ted and Big, the articles and info are very helpful. I'll plan doing clips/channel/ DDW and GG ceiling designs and surround the duct work with fiberglass insulation. Maybe I'll add another layer of drywall to the underside of the plywood subfloor and definitely build boxes for the recessed lights.

I tried a first draft on the room theme. It's ok, any thoughts? It's approx 14' from screen wall to seating and 16' to projector with 110" screen. I found a 5' rack with casters and glass door on Craigslist for $50, so I thought I paint the inside red. I think it looks cool, but in reality the glass is smoked and equipment/shelves will hide most of it, so we'll see how it turns out. The posters won't all be the same and I plan to try out some custom printed fabric from spoonflower to use as acoustical panels/posters.

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post #11 of 59
8/24/11 at 10:24am
I like the colors. Looks like you'll have a nice space when you're done.

Let me preface my next comment with I'm completely interior decorating illiterate, so take this with a grain of salt. I feel like you need more than just those two accent stripes in red. Once you get the rest of the posters up, it may take care of it. The other thing I thought of was a faux coffered ceiling using just trim (see BIG's thread) and use the accent color for the trim? It might be too much red, but it wouldn't hurt to put it in Sketchup and see how it looks.
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post #12 of 59
8/24/11 at 11:39am
Great job with the kitchen remodel!
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post #13 of 59
8/24/11 at 11:52am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

The other thing I thought of was a faux coffered ceiling using just trim (see BIG's thread) and use the accent color for the trim? It might be too much red, but it wouldn't hurt to put it in Sketchup and see how it looks.

Thanks JPA. I do like the idea of doing something to the ceiling. Maybe I'll do some racing stripes, ha! I'll model up the coffered ceiling ala BIG's thread too, see how it looks. The stripes are a chair rail, the posters are in frames, and I'll put in crown molding too, so there's places to add some more red.

Thanks trek. For some reason I'm more nervous doing the theater than I was doing the kitchen, maybe it's because there was no choice, the kitchen had to be redone.
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post #14 of 59
8/25/11 at 6:26am
If the kitchen is any indication, your theater will be awesome....
No worries mate...
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post #15 of 59
8/25/11 at 6:42am
Looks promising! If you plan on sitting 14 feet back, you'd probably prefer a bigger screen. That PJ at that throw distance can handle it.
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post #16 of 59
8/25/11 at 7:20am
That kitchen remodel is gorgeous! Kudos! I'm in awe! How long was that process? (Don't mean to derail here... PM me if you prefer!)

The theatre space looks good. Great size! I found a lot of inspiration in the Color Schemes thread that's in the stickied "Show me your..." thread if you're still interested in color input.
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post #17 of 59
8/25/11 at 11:53am
Thread Starter 
thanks Trek, I think it's just the anticipation of getting it started, combined with lack of sleep taking care of a 1 month old that's got me all jittery

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsearles View Post

Looks promising! If you plan on sitting 14 feet back, you'd probably prefer a bigger screen. That PJ at that throw distance can handle it.

I'll definitely go as big as I can manage. I get headaches if I sit too close, so I'll test it out on the wall first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

That kitchen remodel is gorgeous! Kudos! I'm in awe! How long was that process? (Don't mean to derail here... PM me if you prefer!)
The theatre space looks good. Great size! I found a lot of inspiration in the Color Schemes thread that's in the stickied "Show me your..." thread if you're still interested in color input.

Thanks man. It took 4 weeks from start to finish. I looked for race car themed theaters, but didn't see any. I didn't look very long, so maybe I missed one, but there's plenty other inspiration in that thread!

Back wall
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post #18 of 59
9/30/11 at 8:10am
Thread Starter 
Slow progress, but progress nonetheless. Tough to get things done when you have a 2 month old, but I'm grinding along. Got most of the demo done, just the back wall and 1/2 the ceiling left. Existing framing isn't perfect, but it'll do. Also worked on the plan a bit. I'm really just learning from what I've read/seen done here and doing what I think will work, so any comment/criticism is more than welcome. Looks like room is going to be 12'-3" x 24'-4" after drywall is done.
Thanks.

Most of my equipment is what I gathered over the years:

Currently own;
Pioneer VSX 82 tsx receiver
Swan Diva 5.1 LR
Phase technology teatro surrounds
PS3
Xbox 360
HTPC
Belkin Pure AV power conditioner
2 Klipch sub 10 subwoofers

To be purchased;
18" Mach 5 subwoofer and enclosure
Behringer EP2500
Swan C3 center channel
CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U rack mounted UPS
Panasonic PT-AE4000U
Cooler guys rack mount fan controller




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post #19 of 59
10/1/11 at 8:34am
Well, it certainly looks as though you are looking at the right things in your design. Using the Panny 4000, you are looking at 13FL on the screen. That's a good number (but near the lower limit of 12). If you I am pushing the same in my theater and it looks great. When I visit other theaters that are pushing much more, they look so bright!

In any event, take a look at the Panny 7000 that was just released. It has more lumens available and your number will push to 16 or so...the extra brightness will be welcome. If you already have the projector, that's OK.

The isle between rows looks to be way too close. You are showing 2'! I have 5' and one can just barely get by someone sitting in a full recline. I think you can push your front row closer (if the angle does not bother you). In my setup, the front row's eyeballs are 11'6" from the 130" (horizontal width) 2.39:1 screen. A lot of folks like sitting that close. Others prefer the back row. YMMV

Good start!

CJ
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post #20 of 59
10/1/11 at 8:03pm
Thread Starter 
Yeah, thanks Carb. 2' isn't going to work. Ha, didn't really put much thought into it because I won't be getting a 2nd row for awhile, but still I need to make the space anyway. I originally thought to have the 1st row at 13' and the PJ at around 14' to get the brightness up to 14-16fl. I can't sit too close to the screen, so it's something I'll have to test out before installation. I haven't bought the projector yet. I'd love to get the 7000, but, I'll have to see if I can stretch the budget.
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post #21 of 59
10/2/11 at 11:47am
The 7000 is currently $2499. I think it will stay there for some time. The 4000 is around $1999. Methinks the $500 is worth it if you can swing it.

Buy the projector last. It may very well drop in price, or a new model released between now and the time when you get the room done.

I too thought about hanging the projector in the isle between the two rows. If you do a riser in the back, you'll need to factor in how low the projector is relative to the height of the people that will visit the theater. I ended up putting mine over the second row to keep it out of the way.

CJ
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post #22 of 59
10/2/11 at 5:47pm
Ohhhh, sorry guys. I got the MSRP for the 4000 confused with the street price of the 7000. Teh best street price i've seen for the 7000 is $2999.

Apologies for the mistake!
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post #23 of 59
10/3/11 at 6:14am
Thread Starter 
Well, maybe the 7000 drops in price by the time I'm finished, we'll see. I move things around some. I only have 24" on either side the seats, that's tight, but manageable. Only thing is the 2nd row looks like it's going to conflict with the door swinging inwards, so I'll either go to 2 seats or move it over to the right a bit. I'm likely going to buy the Eros HT seats.
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post #24 of 59
10/3/11 at 7:42am
If you don't care about 3D there is a sister model to the 7000 that you should take a look at.
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post #25 of 59
10/4/11 at 12:32pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Nebrunner, I will look for it.

On another note, torn between getting the Behringer A500 or the EP4000. A500 satisfies the current needs, although I may want to add another sub later on, which the 4000 would cover. Leaning towards the 4000, because, what if...
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post #26 of 59
10/5/11 at 2:26pm
Would french doors work with the back row? Do you have the ability to widen the door frame?
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post #27 of 59
10/6/11 at 4:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Thanks Nebrunner, I will look for it.

On another note, torn between getting the Behringer A500 or the EP4000. A500 satisfies the current needs, although I may want to add another sub later on, which the 4000 would cover. Leaning towards the 4000, because, what if...

Interesting build;

Without question, the EP4K. Be mindful of moderate fan noise. You could get both, they're cheap.

Good luck
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post #28 of 59
10/6/11 at 6:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCUENGR View Post

Would french doors work with the back row? Do you have the ability to widen the door frame?

French door wouldn't work, all the walls are 8" thick concrete and the doorway is just an opening in the wall, so I can't change it without a lot of work.

Speaking of doors, the door opening is almost 20" deep. As far as acoustics are concerned, should I put the door flush with the theater side, or flush with the basement side?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

Interesting build;

Without question, the EP4K. Be mindful of moderate fan noise. You could get both, they're cheap.

Good luck

Thanks, I ordered the EP4000. I want to build another sub later on, so that was best. I plan on doing the fan mod. I've seen this fan used http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...Words=P9739-ND, but I want to use this one, as it's half the wattage, a couple db less, operates at a lower voltage and moves more air. At least that's what the specs say. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P14751-ND. I'm by no mean familiar with doing mods, but it's just 2 wires to cut and splice.
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post #29 of 59
10/7/11 at 8:05am
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Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Thanks, I ordered the EP4000. I want to build another sub later on, so that was best. I plan on doing the fan mod.

Great, you may wait and see if you need to mod the fan. I'm not a fan of amp fan mods, two of my amps are EP4K's, neither are modded. I prefer the stock airflow design, with a small hush box type deal, attenuating the noise. One could use either fiberglass, good foam(most are junk), or some other type of method to address fan noise. I realize fully many individuals mod the fans, I just feel it's not prudent for my use.

I prefer a small angled absorber/attenuator right at fan intake. You can filter the room air, keeping dust etc., out of amp, and attenuate the fan noise. All said, again, there are many successful users of the modded amps.

Thanks, and good luck

btw, here are the accurate numbers for the Behringer EP4K;
Stereo;
8 ohm stereo=450w
4 ohm stereo=635w
2 ohm stereo=815w
------------------------
Mono;
8 ohm mono=1336w
4 ohm mono=2000w
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post #30 of 59
10/7/11 at 11:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Speaking of doors, the door opening is almost 20" deep. As far as acoustics are concerned, should I put the door flush with the theater side, or flush with the basement side?



If you want to maximize the soundproofedness of the room you would put a door on each side creating an airlock effect.
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