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The MacBeth Theater (flood resilient build) - Page 6

post #151 of 271
Thread Starter 
Carpet measurement will be next week, I had hoped to get them in earlier but oh well. My electrician can’t do this weekend so maybe it’s for the best. I want the rest of the electrical work done before I have the carpet installed.

I made the panel for the door but the door will need to be painted first. I also couldn’t get anything thicker than a half inch to fit with the door knob so no linacoustic there. I guess I could peel off a half inch of the insulation if that would do anything?

I was able to add the French cleats to the screen frame and cut down and re-staple the velvet to one of the old lengths of screen border. Going to mount that to the wall and hang the screen tonight. The frame still needs to be painted and the spandex put on but those steps will come later. The spandex might be one of the last things I do as I’m paranoid about damaging he material.
post #152 of 271
Thread Starter 
Borrowed my neighbor's tripod for some better shots.
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post #153 of 271
Thread Starter 
Spent a good part of the evening putting the screen frame up and I have to say I am not happy with the French cleats I bought. Perhaps its the screen track on the back but there is very little metal overlap. I used 3 of these:
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And I just don’t see how I’m going to be able to get the screen centered and all three cleats on and level once the spandex is wrapped. Think I paid $10-$20 each for those things too. I even bent the cleats out a bit and it didn’t help much.

So now I either need to toss those and just take some wood and make my own cleat or attempt to hang it with 2-3 people and then if that doesn’t work make my own.
Edited by design1stcode2nd - 2/14/13 at 7:08am
post #154 of 271
Man, that is one fantastic looking theater and the wood work is spectacular! I cannot wait to see it with the screen hung.
post #155 of 271
Thread Starter 
Thanks Angryht

I meant to post this and forgot. For those of you using pine for your fabric frames a word of caution. I had made a few frames and noticed some voids in the wood and didn’t think much about it. I knocked off one night after building a frame planning on wrapping it the next day and I was glad I did. When I came down to pull the frame off the wall I saw a big old glob of sap running down the frame which would have ruined the fabric had I wrapped it. I didn’t take a picture of it at the time but as I ripped down the rest of my boards I noticed a number of other sap filled voids. I used a utility knife to scrape out the sap from any of these and rubbed some sawdust in for good measure (rubbed and tapped the boards to remove any excess sawdust). I also made sure when building the frames to put these voids to the back.

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post #156 of 271
I used what appear to be the identical cleats on my last frame, although in a different package. I used four since it's on my back wall and didn't want it to rattle with any bass hitting it directly. Here's what I did, although mine was on the bottom of the wall, so you may need some help to do this...

I mounted the half on frame, two on top, two on the bottom. This was tricky, because I want to be able to remove the panel. If all four are mounted inside the area of the frame, you won't be able to lift it off. So, I mounted the top two on the inside and the bottom two on the outside, "upside down." This allows all the cleats on the frame to be pointed in the same direction ("down") for lifting up and off the wall. Because the frame is on the bottom of the wall, the bottom cleats will be covered by base molding. I used a couple of scrap pieces of wood on the floor to set the frame at the height I wanted, then went around and marked where the other half of the cleat needed to go on the wall. I removed the frame and mounted all the cleats.

The thing is, you only need to be close. Even though it looks like there is not much overlap in the cleats, it doesn't take much. And if one is not exactly level, as long as the top cleat fits into the bottom for most of the length, you still can still get the frame set level.

Hope this helps!

Here's the pick of the ones I used.....

Edited by tlogan6797 - 2/14/13 at 8:41am
post #157 of 271
Thread Starter 
Had a hell of a time doing it myself, I'm leaning to just making my own, already have left over lumber and in theory it should make it very easy to install and remove by myself. I'll just need to put another set of blocks on the bottom back of the frame for the additional depth.
post #158 of 271
I thought about making my own, too but was too lazy to set up the table saw again to rip the lumber.
post #159 of 271
Thread Starter 
After having the Rosco paint on for a while I feel I can’t fully recommend it. If you have a high ceiling that can never be touched then it may be fine. If you have any area that is reachable then I wouldn’t use it.

If you just take a cloth and rub it lightly across the surface you will remove paint and leave a mark, same with a finger or anything else.
post #160 of 271
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

After having the Rosco paint on for a while I feel I can’t fully recommend it. If you have a high ceiling that can never be touched then it may be fine. If you have any area that is reachable then I wouldn’t use it.

If you just take a cloth and rub it lightly across the surface you will remove paint and leave a mark, same with a finger or anything else.

 

Have you tried using a microfiber cloth to clean it?  That works very well for me.  I have touched it a few times which leaves skin/dirt on the paint.  The microfiber takes it right off.  I have never had the paint peel/come off after rubbing it.  If it is peeling when simply rubbing it with a cloth, it sounds like there is a prep issue.

 

Hopefully the microfiber idea will help you in the future.

post #161 of 271
Thread Starter 
I haven't tried a microfiber cloth. Just used a clean, white, cotton cloth and had black smudge on it after I wiped it down. It's not peeling or anything it's just as if some of the pigment came off onto the cloth. I'll be touching up sometime soon as of right now it's not an issue but I'll try the microfiber and see if that works.
post #162 of 271
Thread Starter 
I need some front wall speaker help. As you can see in the photo the center channel will be on a shelf 16" off the floor. My original thinking was to put the left and right channels on similar shelves at 12" off the floor. While I think that will look good I don't know if it would be detrimental acoustically. There will already be a 19" difference in the height of the L/R and C channel tweeter. Do I want to make that a 29" difference?

As far as being flood resistant the L/R are on stands so anything less than 2" of water and they all be fine. Although they are powered and made of aluminum so maybe I should get them off the floor?

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post #163 of 271

I would keep the left and right speakers where they are.  You want the drivers to be close to ear height.  If you raise them up, they will likely be too high.

post #164 of 271
Can't you invent a small stand that would float the speaker if needed? I would probably mean you need to anchor the top of the speaker to the ceiling with a wire as they'd probably tip over if lifted that way.
post #165 of 271
Thread Starter 
My idea was to make an 18"x18" (45cm by 45cm for nightlord) shelf supported by brackets that the speakers would sit on. They would be full supported by the shelf. Maybe I'll leave them on the floor and I can always add them later. But you know what happens after the projector gets hung...
post #166 of 271
Thread Starter 
Rack shelves have been made and two coats of black semi-gloss. Theater door is done as well, that needed a coat of black before the panel could be attached. The remaining trim and speaker shelf has been sanded and stained.

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This area will be much brighter once the last can light is installed.
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Not 100% level but oh well won't be seen anyway.
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Installed the chief mount on my projector. Hope this is right, it felt solid when I lifted it up a few times. I'll mount it after electrical is finished.
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post #167 of 271
Thread Starter 
I went to a couple of carpet stores yesterday and I’m pretty much set on the Stanton Hickory in red.
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The carpet guy will be out tomorrow night to measure and I’ll try to haggle him down some and finalize it. I could go with a cheaper carpet and save probably as much as $500 but every time I walk into the theater I know I’m going to regret that decision. Of course if it floods again I may regret going with more expensive carpet.

My guess is it will be at least 3 weeks before install so I’ll have plenty of time to finish the room. I put 3 coats of poly on the remaining trim and painted the brackets that will support the center channel. All of that will be installed tonight.

Front wall cabling has been tied down and pushed through (the screen wall backs up to the laundry room so the framing is exposed).

I’ll probably begin working on the outside of the room until after electrical is done this weekend.

After this weekend will be the moment of truth, I’ll be hanging the PJ and connecting all the components. Hoping and hoping that all my cabling works and there aren’t any issues; I have to say I’m more than a little nervous, a lot more.
post #168 of 271
Thread Starter 
Screen wall trim and center channel stand are done.
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post #169 of 271
You are doing a fantastic job!! Thanks for sharing.
post #170 of 271
I second that! it looks great! Any consideration to turning your center channel speaker vertical?
post #171 of 271
VERY nice carpet pattern!

I was looking at something similiar and pricey. After two f-words (I can't bring myself to even type the word that describes what Noah went through), I went with something cheaper and made of a material much more likely to be saved after a future "event".

Good luck!
post #172 of 271
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigham16 View Post

You are doing a fantastic job!! Thanks for sharing.
YW, thanks for looking. I've gotten so much help and inspiration from many of the builds here I feel it's part of the process to share.
Quote:
Originally Posted by angryht View Post

I second that! it looks great! Any consideration to turning your center channel speaker vertical?
It will be horizontal, otherwise it would need to be on the floor to clear the screen. The speaker comes with parts to mount it this way if you use it as a center channel. Actually it is billed as a center channel but I chose to use the same speaker for my left and right surrounds; you can see them in pictures further back in the thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

VERY nice carpet pattern!

I was looking at something similiar and pricey. After two f-words (I can't bring myself to even type the word that describes what Noah went through), I went with something cheaper and made of a material much more likely to be saved after a future "event".

Good luck!

I have thought of that and if I was a practical person it's what I probably should do. I mean a flood is the whole reason I’m going through this process! I guess I’m figuring on a number of things:

  • In the past 15 years we have had two cases of water in the basement, both of which were completely different and have been remedied.
  • I’ll be placing leak alert devices in multiple places throughout the basement for early detection
  • In the event of a worst case scenario I can pull up the lower section of carpet, move it to the tiled area outside the theater, dry it and replace the padding, it’s only a 12’x9’ piece.


Realistically I should just get a dark loop and cut carpet for $4 a sq. ft. and call it a day. But if I did that I should have just done what my wife and brother suggested and tiled the whole basement, put down a rug and called it good.
Edited by design1stcode2nd - 2/20/13 at 12:33pm
post #173 of 271
Quote:
In the event of a worst case scenario I can pull up the lower section of carpet, move it to the tiled area outside the theater, dry it and replace the padding,

That's the key...being able to dry it and re-stretch. Not all carpet is conducive to that. I picked one (and a pad) that is.
post #174 of 271
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

That's the key...being able to dry it and re-stretch. Not all carpet is conducive to that. I picked one (and a pad) that is.

How can you tell? Is it made of a certain kind of fiber or maybe weave?
post #175 of 271
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

It will be horizontal, otherwise it would need to be on the floor to clear the screen.
Oh, I thought you were going AT with the center behind.
post #176 of 271
Quote:
How can you tell? Is it made of a certain kind of fiber or maybe weave?

Basically, yes. Let me check my buddy's recomendations. Believe it or not, I don't want to go spouting off a bunch of wrong information.
post #177 of 271
Thread Starter 
Well I put a down payment on the carpet. Should be in about three weeks so that is my timetable for getting the theater functional.
post #178 of 271
Thread Starter 
Screen frame is wrapped and hung and projector is mounted. Don't worry electrical isn't done yet so progress will continue.

I must not have drilled one of my pilot holes enough as I sheared off a lag screw. I also forgot to put washers on but it's solid. I will need to buy a metal bit to drill out the bolt; any reccomedations?
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First layer of the screen is silver matte spandex second is white matte. Perhaps I should say silver is inner and white is outer.
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The chief mount and hardware isn't cheap but it's worth it in opinion, very good quality.
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post #179 of 271
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

Screen frame is wrapped and hung and projector is mounted. First layer of the screen is silver matte spandex second is white matte. Perhaps I should say silver is inner and white is outer.

Great screen choice. I'm using the same spandex combination. Zero weave visibility from just a few feet away.
That is one serious looking screen wall you have there. Coming together nicely.

I use tintanium coated. You might want to look for an easy-out as well. It is a form of bit with reverse threads. You drill an appropriate pilot hole into the broken bolt then use the easy-out to unscrew the bolt. It has reverse threads so that it bites in the counter-clockwise direction. They work great in the right application and might save you from a ton of drilling. Good luck.


Edited by DavidK442 - 2/23/13 at 11:01pm
post #180 of 271
Thread Starter 
Never heard of an easy out bit. I'll have to get those. So I use a normal metal bit to drill into the remaining lag screw and then put the easy out bit on and reverse the drill to back out the lag screw?
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