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Sealed dual LMS 18" 5400 build - Page 2

post #31 of 176
The decision regarding how many subs is best made after you have measured the room and you only need one sub to do it. One sub in the listening position, moving the mic all over the place with REW. Paying special attention to the dips so that once certain positions are combined, the dips are taken out. That can give you useful data to help you decide. In a difficult room, more than 1 or 2 may be needed. In other rooms you might not find more very useful and you can then start putting multiple drivers in each box or whatever floats your boat.

Here is an example with just some mains + 2 corner subs overlapped:



Turns out in my room, two corner subs are slightly better than one and with the mains running down into the midbass a little I get a pretty good result. More subs in different spots don't help much. You might have a bigger room and more options, so the situation could be completely different. The key is to find out for your room then you are in a much better position to decide.
post #32 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

Did you send $$ direct to them or through someone else?

Western Union
post #33 of 176
Thread Starter 
Started the box tonight. Should be right at 9 cu.ft when complete.

post #34 of 176
Thread Starter 
oh snap!

post #35 of 176
Sweet! Stock fans?
post #36 of 176
DAMN! That is a fine looking piece of gear!
post #37 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Sweet! Stock fans?

Yes
post #38 of 176
Thread Starter 
One cross brace down, four to go

post #39 of 176
Gettin close!
post #40 of 176
Thread Starter 
2 down, 3 to go

post #41 of 176
Thread Starter 
Bracing is nearing completion:

post #42 of 176
That looks familiar
post #43 of 176
Thread Starter 
All done with the bracing!






Lots of screws, and I've already used an entire tube of PL400!


post #44 of 176
should get a nailgun
post #45 of 176
I hope you used Titebond II.. to mate the surfaces of the box... PL is for the bracing....
post #46 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

should get a nailgun

Dang that'd be nice!
post #47 of 176
I'd use PL over titebond, that stuff is invincible, and it expands.
post #48 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

I hope you used Titebond II.. to mate the surfaces of the box... PL is for the bracing....

Yep, and I also used a bead of pl400 on the inside to ensure it's air tight.
post #49 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I'd use PL over titebond, that stuff is invincible, and it expands.


PL is fine for sealing... but it will fail as a strictly wood glue... you don't see carpenters using that stuff...
post #50 of 176
Thread Starter 
Doubled up the top and bottom.

post #51 of 176
What are your plans for finish? What can you do protect the driver cones if you have kids? I guess you can make a beefy grill how do you keep a homemade grill from rattling?

Looking good so far though
post #52 of 176
That looks great.... it will look better if you weren't using a cheap a$$ camera..
post #53 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post


PL is fine for sealing... but it will fail as a strictly wood glue... you don't see carpenters using that stuff...

Not correct. PL Premium especially is some of the best glue for wood that is available. It is also very good for for MDF and end grain because it is not water based so it will not wick.

The downsides are that it is pricey and hard to clean up. I have used it without gloves and had it on my had for several days.
post #54 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

That looks great.... it will look better if you weren't using a cheap a$$ camera..

LOL


Nice work there buddy...

Its been a while since I made sawdust - I'm getting the itch again...


Get some good heavy duty magnets and sink them for a magnetic grill before you do the finish work - if your doing grills that is.... Not a big fan of grills myself, and little ones don't really like to mess with the big monsterous vibrating cones all that much...

Best idea for that is - after you finish building them and get them dialed in, tell the kids to get a close up look at them and then send out some test tones - you'll freak em out so as to never really have to worry about them messing with them.... Does that make me evil...
post #55 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDuck View Post

What are your plans for finish? What can you do protect the driver cones if you have kids? I guess you can make a beefy grill how do you keep a homemade grill from rattling?

Looking good so far though

I'll fill the screw holes with wood putty, sand it down, cover it with an outdoor waterproof primer, then just a flat black latex paint. Nothing fancy.

My 5th child is due in December, but luckily for me the theatre room is downstairs, and kids are not allowed in there without me. Heck, they're not even allowed downstairs without me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

That looks great.... it will look better if you weren't using a cheap a$$ camera..

Yeah, it's my phone
post #56 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdrv View Post

lol

best idea for that is - after you finish building them and get them dialed in, tell the kids to get a close up look at them and then send out some test tones - you'll freak em out so as to never really have to worry about them messing with them.... :d does that make me evil...


lol!!!
post #57 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

PL is fine for sealing... but it will fail as a strictly wood glue... you don't see carpenters using that stuff...

What are you talking about? My friend is a carpenter and loves the stuff. If you PL two 2x4's together, they'll break before the PL gives.
post #58 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

What are you talking about? My friend is a carpenter and loves the stuff. If you PL two 2x4's together, they'll break before the PL gives.


Yeah 2x4"s... No woodworker will ever use PL... You don't build furniture or kitchen cabinets with PL... I am surprised at you guys...
post #59 of 176
maybe no Canadian woodworker... lol..

There are pluses and minus, although I would really like to see some pull test done pl vs titebond.

I have my suspicions that pl would kick the snot out of titebond.

I think that "woodworkers" may choose titebond due to the ease of cleanup, rather than strength..
post #60 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile34 View Post

maybe no Canadian woodworker... lol..

There are pluses and minus, although I would really like to see some pull test done pl vs titebond.

I have my suspicions that pl would kick the snot out of titebond.

I think that "woodworkers" may choose titebond due to the ease of cleanup, rather than strength..


You can't mate two pieces of maple with PL.. Pl needs a cushion...

Pl is a construction adhesive ... rough construction like plywood boxes..
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