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Sealed dual LMS 18" 5400 build - Page 4

post #91 of 176
Lukeamdman what's your room size?
post #92 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Lukeamdman what's your room size?

It's 11ft wide, 8ft tall, and about 26-27ft in length if I remember correctly. I'm sitting 13-14ft away from the speakers.
post #93 of 176
Thread Starter 
Just finished the second one on Monday



post #94 of 176
Siiiiccck!
post #95 of 176
I think it's time for a bigger screen
post #96 of 176
I shall call it MINI NOTNYT
post #97 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

I shall call it MINI NOTNYT

Mini?! I think half notnyt sounds better
post #98 of 176
those look...serious.

personally, i'd feel way more comfortable with a smoke detector in the amp room. :-)
post #99 of 176
Love it!! Whats those things next to the amps?
post #100 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Love it!! Whats those things next to the amps?

20A surge protectors, one for each amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Cyberpower-CPS...2712471&sr=8-1
post #101 of 176
Quote:


120V, 15 Input cord, NEMA 5-20P Plug type

Tell me your're not running 14,000 watt amps through a 15 amp cord.



Don't the amps run on 240 V?
post #102 of 176
Just curious but when playing whatever bass heavy movie does the sub have enough ooommph to shake clothes are arm hairs?

I think it does but wondered what you thought.
post #103 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Tell me your're not running 14,000 watt amps through a 15 amp cord.



Don't the amps run on 240 V?


It's a 15' cord. You see the NEMA 5-20P, that's 20A. These things are beefcake.
post #104 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

It's a 15' cord. You see the NEMA 5-20P, that's 20A. These things are beefcake.



120v or 240v?
post #105 of 176
Thread Starter 
120v
post #106 of 176
120v +14,000 watts...
post #107 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

120v +14,000 watts...

I’m running them in a 8ohm bridge, so it’s more like 120v + 8,800w

I haven’t tripped the 20A surge protectors or the 30A circuits yet so I’m not worried.
post #108 of 176
I don't think people quite understand how amps and circuits are rated. There is a lot more to it than just the hard numbers that are being thrown around, and people are paying way too close attention to those numbers. These amps should in fact have a dedicated circuit, and 30a if possible. You're not going to miss much, if anything, in a home setting if you run them off of a 20a circuit.
post #109 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

It's 11ft wide, 8ft tall, and about 26-27ft in length if I remember correctly. I'm sitting 13-14ft away from the speakers.

Got any EQ graphs? have you given them some sweeps to find where you see compression?

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I don't think people quite understand how amps and circuits are rated. There is a lot more to it than just the hard numbers that are being thrown around.

+1, ive gleaned what I can from our conversations, but electricity is a tricky thing, especially when there are so many different ways people measure it.
post #110 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Just curious but when playing whatever bass heavy movie does the sub have enough ooommph to shake clothes are arm hairs?

I think it does but wondered what you thought.

I would describe these as scary/violent. With previous subs I've obviously felt the walls and couch shaking, but this is to the extent that you can actually SEE the walls, ceiling, and couch shaking they are moving so much.

My wife was in the car they other day pulling into the driveway, and even though the car was running and the radio was on she could still hear the bass My theater room is the a basement completely below ground level!

Last night my buddy came over to watch the UFC show, and we really cranked it. There were pieces of my suspended ceiling falling all over the place, and my amps in the closet behind the sub had all shifted and were sliding off the shelves! All my subs, speakers, TV, etc had pieces of the ceiling coating them.

I need to install a lip on the shelves to keep my equipment on them
post #111 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I don't think people quite understand how amps and circuits are rated. There is a lot more to it than just the hard numbers that are being thrown around, and people are paying way too close attention to those numbers. These amps should in fact have a dedicated circuit, and 30a if possible. You're not going to miss much, if anything, in a home setting if you run them off of a 20a circuit.

These amps should be run on 240V. Even if you're pulling 5000 watts out of them it's still 41 amps... on 240 it's 21 amps..

So having a 20 amp circuit on a 14,000 watt 120v amp does not make sense unless you're only pulling only 3000 watts from it... Sure you can pull momentary spiked high wattage from it... but if you're watching something that has some serious bass output you'll be limited and you won't even know it.
post #112 of 176
^ I guess I don't understand some things.

First of all, isn't this a small room (11X8X25)? Around 2200 cubes? Maybe I missed something somewhere.

Then, you have a PAIR of gigantic boxes, EACH housing (2) ~90db sens drivers?

SO, if you're pushing just a couple thousand watts to EACH cab, how are you not ending up with absolutely insane (130+ db) SPL's after boundary gain throughout most of this room?

Never minding the fact that no one is going to suffer through that SPL for anything outside of peaks and therefore the 20A circuit should be quite capable of delivering said bursts?

Maybe I'm missing a bunch here, but running one of these amps off a 20A circuit @ 120V's seems perfectly acceptable to me.

These "Super Bass" threads are a blast, but I always come back to wondering who the hell listens at these levels, and for those that do, what does the balance/level of the rest of the spectrum sound like when you have 130+db bass?

Great results btw, very, very nice.

James
post #113 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

These amps should be run on 240V. Even if you're pulling 5000 watts out of them it's still 41 amps... on 240 it's 21 amps..

So having a 20 amp circuit on a 14,000 watt 120v amp does not make sense unless you're only pulling only 3000 watts from it... Sure you can pull momentary spiked high wattage from it... but if you're watching something that has some serious bass output you'll be limited and you won't even know it.

The word "limited" is probably the last word that would cross my mind when listening to this system

I'll bypass the 20A surge protectors tonight and plug each amp directly into it's own 30A circuit and I guarantee you there won't be the slightest difference.

The only time I think it'd be possible to trip the surge protectors would be during high level sign wave tests, which I don't do.
post #114 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

These amps should be run on 240V. Even if you're pulling 5000 watts out of them it's still 41 amps... on 240 it's 21 amps..

So having a 20 amp circuit on a 14,000 watt 120v amp does not make sense unless you're only pulling only 3000 watts from it... Sure you can pull momentary spiked high wattage from it... but if you're watching something that has some serious bass output you'll be limited and you won't even know it.

These amps are fused at 30a for 120v and 16a for 240v. Do the math

Also, your number spewing overlooks the fact that if these amps are putting out a 5000w transient, it does not mean that they are pulling 5000w from the line. That's what all of those wonderful capacitors are for. Furthermore, just because they are fused at that, does not mean they can't pull higher transients either from the line. These amps can consistently run a pair of LMS 5400 to their full potential without issue. I have not had another amp even come close to that. The regulated switching mode power supply and tracking digital amplification is so much more efficient than other methods of amplification.

They also have different power supply units for different voltages, so you are not going to get as much of an efficiency drop as a power supply designed to run on either. The bottom line is that if you're sine wave testing, you may see a slight advantage to running 220. If you really want to dispute it more, you can always get one of each and do some bench testing.
post #115 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

^ I guess I don't understand some things.

First of all, isn't this a small room (11X8X25)? Around 2200 cubes? Maybe I missed something somewhere.

Then, you have a PAIR of gigantic boxes, EACH housing (2) ~90db sens drivers?

SO, if you're pushing just a couple thousand watts to EACH cab, how are you not ending up with absolutely insane (130+ db) SPL's after boundary gain throughout most of this room?

Never minding the fact that no one is going to suffer through that SPL for anything outside of peaks and therefore the 20A circuit should be quite capable of delivering said bursts?

Maybe I'm missing a bunch here, but running one of these amps off a 20A circuit @ 120V's seems perfectly acceptable to me.

These "Super Bass" threads are a blast, but I always come back to wondering who the hell listens at these levels, and for those that do, what does the balance/level of the rest of the spectrum sound like when you have 130+db bass?

Great results btw, very, very nice.

James

Yeah, my room isn't very big, and 130db was attainable with just one of these. The second evened out the room response and took some of the strain off the single cabinet and amp.

It's not like every time I turn this on I'm blasting 120+ db levels, but that can be very fun at times. What can I say, I like loud music/movies for brief amounts of time!

My problem is that whenever I find the limit or shortcoming of particular speaker/sub or amp, I get the itch to upgrade and tend to dwell on that shortcoming. For a couple weeks, I know, not very long, dual Caps seemed very promising, but the inherent problem with bass reflex subs (port noise) was noticeable and then it was like I was intentionally listening for it whenever they were playing.
post #116 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

These amps are fused at 30a for 120v and 16a for 240v. Do the math

Also, your number spewing overlooks the fact that if these amps are putting out a 5000w transient, it does not mean that they are pulling 5000w from the line. That's what all of those wonderful capacitors are for. Furthermore, just because they are fused at that, does not mean they can't pull higher transients either from the line. These amps can consistently run a pair of LMS 5400 to their full potential without issue. I have not had another amp even come close to that. The regulated switching mode power supply and tracking digital amplification is so much more efficient than other methods of amplification.

They also have different power supply units for different voltages, so you are not going to get as much of an efficiency drop as a power supply designed to run on either. The bottom line is that if you're sine wave testing, you may see a slight advantage to running 220. If you really want to dispute it more, you can always get one of each and do some bench testing.


Since you are already equipped maybe you should do the bench testing for us...
post #117 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Yeah, my room isn't very big, and 130db was attainable with just one of these. The second evened out the room response and took some of the strain off the single cabinet and amp.

It's not like every time I turn this on I'm blasting 120+ db levels, but that can be very fun at times. What can I say, I like loud music/movies for brief amounts of time!

My problem is that whenever I find the limit or shortcoming of particular speaker/sub or amp, I get the itch to upgrade and tend to dwell on that shortcoming. For a couple weeks, I know, not very long, dual Caps seemed very promising, but the inherent problem with bass reflex subs (port noise) was noticeable and then it was like I was intentionally listening for it whenever they were playing.



I think your'e good to go in the sub section,you next move should be a bigger tv..
post #118 of 176
I understand luke. And I hope I didn't make you feel like you had to justify anything to me...even though I prolly did.

Duals are fun and have obvious advantages.

I considered a similar venture with a pair of 5400's ...but mine would be flying solo in their own cabinets as I know just two would give me all the output I would ever need.

Rock on.

James
post #119 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I don't think people quite understand how amps and circuits are rated. There is a lot more to it than just the hard numbers that are being thrown around, and people are paying way too close attention to those numbers. These amps should in fact have a dedicated circuit, and 30a if possible. You're not going to miss much, if anything, in a home setting if you run them off of a 20a circuit.

Ya, maybe you can elaborate more detail since you have extensive knowledge on this, I think many potential buyers would like to find out this
post #120 of 176
Thread Starter 
I need to get a calibrated mic and REW going. With a Radio shack SPL meter, not sure how this thing does with sub 20hz material, I got the following results from the LP. For these numbers below I turned off the HPF.

25hz: 80db (starting point)
20hz: 80
19hz: 80
18hz: 81
17hz: 81
16hz: 83
15hz: 84
14hz: 80
13hz: 68 wow!
12hz: 66
11hz: 67
10hz: 63

Dang, my room takes a massive bite out of the SPL at 13hz and below.

I turned the HPF back on, 10hz 48db BW, and the results were EXACTLY the same. A 10hz 48db LR filter took 2db from 10-11hz, and 1db from 12-14hz. 15hz and up was the same.
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