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Omaha Theater #5

post #1 of 346
Thread Starter 

Adding finished photos.  Photos were taken by HuskerOmaha with his wifes camera and he accidentally had some kind of sepia filter set up.  The colors are not accurate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Original first post follows:

 

Framing starts later this week and HuskerOmaha has been hounding me to start a build thread now, rather than wait until it's all done and post pics later.

Many thanks to local AVS folks who inspired me with builds on these forums; Dkaps, Woolly, Anders, HuskerO. Most of all I need to thank BigMouthinDC for all the great help he has given me, and for all the work he has done for everybody on these forums over the years. I don't think there is any AVS'er in his league, certainly not in the DTD&C forum.

We bought the house last year and the basement was unfinished but had water issues. I extended downspouts and added to the grading on the outside of the house, and I added some waterproofing coats to the inside block basement walls. I also added a sump pump, there was a pit but no pump installed.

The theater room area is roughly 23' long x 15.5' wide, this will shrink with the addition of 2x4 walls, clips and hat channel, and double layer of 5/8" drywall.

Basement is a walkout, originally had a single door, I tore down part of the wall last year and installed a double french door to make it easier to move things in and out of the basement. View from the front of the theater toward the back door:




View from the back of the room looking toward the front wall. Plan is to have the entry door to the room at the front left, screen will be on your left as you enter the room. Ceiling is 8.5', there is a support beam running across the middle of the room:






When you come down the stairs it is very tight at that front wall, I want to tear down some of the drywall at the base of the stairs, add in a railing and balusters and open that up:





When you come down the stairs and it is open to your left, the door to the theater will be to your right. There was a great thread in the Theater Room accessories forum about how to make and mod your own Home Theater signs. I followed their instructions and made a sign to hang over the entry door. (not sure how to embed the video):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlTlI...yer_detailpage


Gom colors for the room will be a close approximation of Big's theater room colors:





Rough gameplan is to follow Big's SOP as much as I can; stage in front with the low profile false front wall, platform in back, 3 seats in front row, 4 in the back. Columns on the wall to hide the surrounds.


Edited by nebrunner - 2/3/13 at 9:08am
post #2 of 346
Thread Starter 
The rear walkout wall had 3 leaky windows and moisture trapped underneath the vapor barrier which led to mold growth. I tore it all out, put in new windows and Woolly set me up with the same spray foam he used on his basement:





The soundproofing products were purchased from Ted at the Soundproofing Co. Ted was a huge help and answered all my soundproofing questions. Woolly had me add an additional layer of 5/8th drywall greenglued directly to the underside of the mainfloor, acoustic caulk was used around the edges:




It wouldn't be a thread if it didn't include one of Big's handmade floorplans:

post #3 of 346
Good to see another HT being done right. Subscribed.
post #4 of 346
You said you "greenglued" the 5/8" to the bottom of the floor, you did attach it with screws as well, right?

This looks like it will be an interesting build. I'll sign up to come along for the ride! Keep the updates coming.
post #5 of 346
Thread Starter 
Greenglued and used drywall screws too.

I have no experience doing any of this, I have been learning as I go, along with large amounts of help from folks like Woolly and Big. One of the best things I had to help was a Taunton press book that I believe Big recommended in some other thread. It's a complete guide on how to finish your basement and it's written by a community college carpentry teacher from Lincoln NE.

Found a picture from last fall when I put in the new back door. That was a tough one to tackle by myself but it was rewarding. Only difference between then and now is that now it also has a double storm door on the outside. I wasn't originally going to include that but I found out after a few storms that wind driven rain will get through just about anything.

post #6 of 346
You have the makings of a nice room. Doing it right will take more time, but it will be more rewarding in the end. Keep documenting your build along the way so that posters can help give advice (spend your money).
post #7 of 346
The build thread is up! The build thread is up! The build thread is up!

Thanks again for donating your DTS10 + JTR Growler for use in our upcoming shootout.

Oh yeah, you left something over here again, your Star Trek BluRay.

I have a couple copies of ScubaSteves V2.0 burned if you want to ever borrow one down the road.


Subscribed!
post #8 of 346
Thread Starter 
Had a productive day and it should be even better tomorrow.

Lumber arrived and we moved it all into the house:




I tore down the supports under the stairs and added a header, this will be used as the equipment closet:




Removed the studs along the side of the stairs and cut away all the drywall to open it up. Tomorrow I'll frame out a little wall to add the new railing:




It already feels great to have that opened up. When you come down the stairs you can look to the left and it makes the room seem bigger.

post #9 of 346
Thread Starter 
Framing went well today and the theater would have been complete but we ran out of clips on the last wall! I need to get a call in to Ted for more clips and another case of acoustic caulk. Tomorrow we'll be framing out the equipment closet and as much of the rest of the basement as we can.





post #10 of 346
I was going to text you today to see how things were going
post #11 of 346
Off to a Great Start!
post #12 of 346
Chris,

You should probably come and buy the rest of the 703 from me. Soon. Please.

Otherwise, Craigslist in 5....4...3...2...
post #13 of 346
Thread Starter 
The order for more isolation clips and acoustic caulk went in to Ted today.

We had to stop on the theater framing so we framed in the bathroom and the closet to conceal the sump pump.

It looks like I might have a good spot for some built in shelving but I don't know much about built-ins. I'll post a picture tomorrow so you can take a look and let me know if it will work.

Tomorrow will be a day of cleanup and maybe hang some doors.

I think I'm set on oc703 with that deal I got on craigslist. You should pm the theater builder with the Hearthstone home in Bellevue, he needed some.

Can you guys take a look at Big's floorplan drawing and let me know if I can reverse the theater door and have it swing out or if that will cause issues?
post #14 of 346
Thread Starter 
Will this area work for a built in shelf? It is 9 1/2" deep.






Farther back picture of the area:

post #15 of 346
mine swings out
post #16 of 346
Thread Starter 
The clips are in from the Soundproofing Company, I will be able to finish the framing tomorrow, have one wall and the middle soffit to cover the support beam.

After that will be the wiring and insulation, I was at Woolly's last night to get some measurements of where he placed his sconces, his surround speakers, etc. so I can dial in where I want to run all my wires after tomorrow.

I've been putting in the can lights in the main basement room, wasn't sure what bulbs to use so I picked up a variety to try out.



Going to compare the normal BR30 65watt floods against some equivalent CFL floods and also try my first LED flood.

I printed out an old movie poster and had it framed at Hobby Lobby




And I bought a new toy, been wanting one of these for a while but I couldn't bring myself to spend the money on one. I was at Menards today picking up some romex and saw these on closeout for 50% off.

post #17 of 346
I'll be interested to see what you think of the LED.
post #18 of 346
What kind of clamping tool is that? I think I saw one a long time ago. I'll call the local Menards to see if they have any in stock. Also, how do you like it? Oh, and looking good so far!
post #19 of 346
Thread Starter 
That is a Port-A-Mate MegaVise. It may be a Menards house brand, they had it sitting next to the Rockwell Jawhorse so I was able to get a close look at both, it looked like a part for part remake of the Jawhorse so I felt like it was a good deal at half the price.

The theater room is 100% complete on framing, the drywaller wants to get in there to do the work next Saturday which would mean I have to get the electrical, acoustic caulking, insulating and all the clips and hat channel completed this week at night after work. It seems like I have good intentions to work on it every night but then I get home from work and just sit down on the couch "for a minute" and turn on the tv, and then I lack the energy to get back up and go to work.
post #20 of 346
I know that feeling
post #21 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

I printed out an old movie poster and had it framed at Hobby Lobby


Nice poster, but I think you spent too much. An original half sheet on this title will generally go for $20-30 at auction. The nice thing about half sheets is that they are a stock size for frames. You can usually pick up something pretty nice for $20-30 on sale at Michaels or Hobby Lobby or Aarons. A custom framing job will cost well over $100 for a half sheet. I could probably put this package together for around $50.

The problem is that you never know when a particular title is going to come up for auction. If you are flexible, lots of deals to be had at poster auction sites like auctions.emovieposter.com, www.movieposterbid.com and movieposters.ha.com.
post #22 of 346
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayn_j View Post

Nice poster, but I think you spent too much. An original half sheet on this title will generally go for $20-30 at auction. The nice thing about half sheets is that they are a stock size for frames. You can usually pick up something pretty nice for $20-30 on sale at Michaels or Hobby Lobby or Aarons. A custom framing job will cost well over $100 for a half sheet. I could probably put this package together for around $50.

The problem is that you never know when a particular title is going to come up for auction. If you are flexible, lots of deals to be had at poster auction sites like auctions.emovieposter.com, www.movieposterbid.com and movieposters.ha.com.


Thanks for the information, I had no idea that you could pick up an original for that little, I will keep an eye on these two sites and see what I can get. I'd love an Errol Flynn Robin Hood but I bet that would cost a lot more. I probably should have printed that one out first.

Ran all the speaker wire last night, I was amazed at how much cable I used up for 7 channels and 3 for subs. I started laying out the room with the lines drawn on the floor, I'm not sure if the front of the room is going to work with an AT screen, take a look and let me know if this is enough clearance when you come through the door (plus the visible portion of the stage will be very shallow)



post #23 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

That is a Port-A-Mate MegaVise. It may be a Menards house brand, they had it sitting next to the Rockwell Jawhorse so I was able to get a close look at both, it looked like a part for part remake of the Jawhorse so I felt like it was a good deal at half the price.

The theater room is 100% complete on framing, the drywaller wants to get in there to do the work next Saturday which would mean I have to get the electrical, acoustic caulking, insulating and all the clips and hat channel completed this week at night after work. It seems like I have good intentions to work on it every night but then I get home from work and just sit down on the couch "for a minute" and turn on the tv, and then I lack the energy to get back up and go to work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Thanks for the information, I had no idea that you could pick up an original for that little, I will keep an eye on these two sites and see what I can get. I'd love an Errol Flynn Robin Hood but I bet that would cost a lot more. I probably should have printed that one out first.

Ran all the speaker wire last night, I was amazed at how much cable I used up for 7 channels and 3 for subs. I started laying out the room with the lines drawn on the floor, I'm not sure if the front of the room is going to work with an AT screen, take a look and let me know if this is enough clearance when you come through the door (plus the visible portion of the stage will be very shallow)




Just tell the drywaller (my guy?) to wait until you are ready...... Wait until you are ready!

Take a bunch of pictures of the entire layout of the basement. All the studs, wiring, etc. You probably already did this.

Your front stage will be small, but if you don't care don't worry. I think you HAVE to go AT. Don't screw up like I did!

How deep is it behind your mark? 12-16"?

Where are you putting the DTS10? Growler towards the rear of the room in that cubbyhole?

I'm sure your LCR will fit behind there, even if you change speakers most should...especially pro audio types. Dunno about sub possibilities.
post #24 of 346
Thread Starter 
its about 27 inches behind that line marked SCREEN, but remember that the hat channel and drywall are going to eat up 3" of that.
post #25 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

its about 27 inches behind that line marked SCREEN, but remember that the hat channel and drywall are going to eat up 3" of that.

You aren't doing drywall on the foundation wall behind the screen are you? Or.....

27 inches....should be fine.

Did you pick out a screen yet?
post #26 of 346
Thread Starter 
Yes absolutely doing double drywall plus clips and hat channel behind the screen. After that there will be 24" available for the speakers.

I will have 2" of OC703 but Ted's instructions for the clips shows a method to use blocking to gain some additional space. I believe it's meant for ceiling use but I'll call him and verify that it's ok to use it on the walls too. I might go that route on both the front and back walls as well as the ceiling. 2-3" isn't that much in the overall room but it would be nice to have that extra depth.
post #27 of 346
I keep forgetting you are doing things the right way!
post #28 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

I will have 2" of OC703 but Ted's instructions for the clips shows a method to use blocking to gain some additional space. I believe it's meant for ceiling use but I'll call him and verify that it's ok to use it on the walls too.

You can do this on the walls, but the channels will run vertically in that case. Just run the channels all the way to the floor so the channel won't slide down further. Then attach the drywall
post #29 of 346
Thread Starter 
Got quite a bit done this weekend. All the speaker and electrical wiring is complete.

The cross bracing for the clips is all in and I'm working my way through the clips tonight. Tomorrow the insulation should be completely in, Tuesday night we are running the HVAC flex. Drywalling will be done next weekend. I'm hiring out the taping and mudding.

post #30 of 346
Thread Starter 
Few things -

- my estimate of insulation completion was seriously off

- hanging insulation is not nearly as fun as I expected it to be

- after a miserable night of trying to cut the roxul with a razor blade, I remembered reading someones thread where they cut it using an electric carving knife. I gave that a try and it's perfect. As long as my wife doesn't find out I'm using her good carving knife to cut insulation in the basement...


Greg if you have an hour free tonight, tomorrow or Friday to give me a hand, let me know.
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