The drywallers brought in the materials last night. Two of the littlest guys you have ever seen and they were hauling 12' long extra wide sheets of drywall two at a time.
They are installing it now, they said they could hang the entire basement in a day, would have taken me weeks to do it by myself.
It's starting to come together. He should have it completely mudded tomorrow and then texture the ceiling Thursday. Then I can prime and paint it all next week and finish up the electrical. It is really looking like the original drawing that Big sent me.
The doors are all hung. I wired in 12 can lights in the equipment closet and back hallway. Went to turn them on and they all turned on! Then after about 2 minutes the breaker tripped
Took them all down and on the 9th can I found that I had tightened the little romex connector too tight and it had pinched through the plastic jacket and had metal touching metal. Got that corrected and now it's all working ok.
The par20 halogens that I had in the equipment closet were way too hot. I swapped out the 5 halogen bulbs for 5 led bulbs and it's better.
Went to start looking at cabinets today. Here is what I am thinking for the bar area:
I have never shopped for cabinets in my life. They had a darker colored wood called "toffee maple" or something similar that looked good. Few questions for you guys -
If I buy the cabinets is that something I could hang myself easily or am I better off paying a pro?
The basement is going to be carpeted but it seems like it might be strange to have the carpet go straight up against the cabinets, should I have them sitting on a little hardwood "island" area?
If I do have them sitting on a hardwood area, how do you pick out a floor color that looks ok with the cabinet color? I am using a light colored bamboo flooring in the bathroom, not sure that would work with maple cabinets.
I wouldn't run carpet up to your cabinets-especially if you will be preparing any type of food/drink in that area. I would tile or do hardwood around the immediate area.
I'm happy someone told me that, otherwise I may have carpeted the entire basement but having a surface easily cleaned is a must in my book.
My cabinets were custom made, mainly because I screwed up and I needed a width that wasn't in the 6" increments as Lowes and HD sell their cabinets that are pre-finished. My cabinet guy came in a few hundred less than the Lowes cabinets (upper-middle of their 5? lines) but mine were unfinished.
After we got the stain on, I had someone come in and spray lacquer them up for me. After doing the bar myself, I probably could have wiped it on, but the spray finish looks better IMO.
I would just pick out the wood/tile like anything else when designing-find samples and put them up against one another and see what looks nice. Tile under wood may be easier than wood/wood. If anything, I would do a contrasting wood/wood or tile/wood....dark and light etc....
I thought Hardwood Heaven went out of business and a different shop moved in there? This is the place behind the Japanese Steakhouse south of Center right?
The arcade cabinet works great and will definitely be a fixture in the playroom. On my list of future projects to work on after the theater is done is a virtual pinball cabinet. I have all the parts, just need the time to assemble it.
I've been making progress on the outer room, equipment closet and bathroom. These should all be completed in the next week or two and I will get to start back in on the theater. A few progress pictures:
And another new hobby I recently picked up, and has been negatively impacting my theater construction timeline:
I hung all of the doors over the weekend and have been trimming them in. There are air gaps between the door frame and the wall framing that gets covered by the trim around the doors, these air gaps seem like a good place for sound to leak through. What would the best acoustical practices be for these gaps? (leave them empty, stuff with oc703, spray foam them, etc)
No but I haven't tried flipping the polarity yet. I have a bunch of printed out sheets and wiring diagrams from the DTS-10 thread and pm's from Ricci. If flipping the polarity doesn't work, my backup plan is to cut it into pieces and scatter it across HuskerOmaha's lawn.
No but I haven't tried flipping the polarity yet. I have a bunch of printed out sheets and wiring diagrams from the DTS-10 thread and pm's from Ricci. If flipping the polarity doesn't work, my backup plan is to cut it into pieces and scatter it across HuskerOmaha's lawn.
I already have a lawn service that takes care of fertilizer.
My riser is 90" I wanted to be able to walk in front of the chairs if they were reclined and have at least 12" off the rear wall. If you went 90" you could have your first step go into the riser rather then having it stick out.
Totally forgot about taking that into account, should be fine though, since I'll be buying 8' 2x10's and trimming them down. When it comes time to build the riser in a couple weeks, you'll have to come over and help.
hey guys,
looks good. Man it's seems like forever since I've posted, guess I've been enjoying my build. What part of Omaha/Elkhorn are you in. I am in Western Springs behind Target @ 180TH
Skers we are practically neighbors! Im at 159th and Maple.
My wifes baby shower is being held in the basement this Sunday so I am cleaning things up and snapped a few updated photos. Work on the theater room will start back up next weekend. This weekend is crazy busy, the brewing club is doing the annual "Big Brew" and we are going to have 85 gallons total this year.