Official Samsung UNXXD6400/6420 Owners' Thread - Page 4

Have you checked for software updates?

Yup! That's pretty much the first thing I asked her. As far as she knows, the software is up to date. However, I will double check next time I'm over there.

i ordered the d6400 due to not wanting to add another 700 $ for the d7000, i really wanted good 3d but after hearing that its not full hd 3d i got dissapointed.
so i took my usb stick with an imax movie side by side to an electric store which sells the d6400 to view my movie. i was very impressed with the quality and i couldnt believe that it could get better.
after watching 3d on active shutter i am very impressed with 3d all together.
can anyone else confirm that watching 3d on the d6400 is not as bad as people say?

Did that same store sell the D7000? if not, go to 1 that does & plug in your usb imax & see how it looks? Then u can make a better determination. I've owned both, and it's a very subtle diff between the 2, imo. My D6400 had very li'l issues & overall it was a gr8 panel..............

thats good to know, i dont know if i shouldve spent 9knis (israeli money) on a tv that is soon to be replaced by a newer and much better model, my only problem was the 3d, tbh in the beggining of my hunt i didnt expect to get a 3d tv but i had soon come to realize that most tv's are in 3d so i took a look at the d6400 and i was so impressed that i immediately jumped to the 7/8 series which btw i couldve got the d558000 for the same price -+ as the 46 7000 series.
if you say that the 3d is good on the 6400 then im satisfied.
id rather stick to a less pricey tv atm when there are new tvs around the corner.
btw should i download this firmware right after i buy the tv?http://www.samsung.com/au/support/mo...MXXY-downloads

I would only update f/w if you're having issues, if all is well, I would keep the f/w that was installed @ the factory.

When I bought my 6400, the first time I turned it on it automatically did a download, so if you don't want that I suggest you not have an internet cable connected to the TV when you first turn it on.

dont you get fixes when you update it?

You certainly might, but my uncle had a good rule of thumb for me growing up, "If it ain't broken, don't mess with it!" A few had done the update & saw their SD viewing take a hit, where it didn't look as good as it did coming right out the box.

Most of the updates I saw for the D6400, were for flickering issues during 3d viewing, if you don't notice any flickering, than I would suggest against doing the f/w update. Samsung very seldomly will tell you what the updates were even addressing. Depending upon which panel you receive & what time it rolled off the assembly line, there's a chance it already has a pretty recent update.

Since it was the first time the set was turned on I have no idea what it was fixing or changing. There was another software update a few weeks ago. I did it because I usually do all downloads but it did not indicate what the download was for.

alright then ill just leave it and if its causes me problems then ill update it.
i heard there was a fix coming for the d6xxx series for the 3d, could that even be realistic?

Hi,
How do you check to see what panel you have? I just ordered a 60 inch d6400 and I will get it Friday. I will also try some calibrations recommended here and buy the Rosewill dongle. Thanks for such a great forum, I always come here first before any HT purchase.

P.s. I could not get my old AVS forum credentials to work. That is why I show up as a new member. I have been on and off this forum since I bought my Hitachi 50vs810 nine years ago. (Light engine just died thus the new D6400)

hi, to check the panel you look on the back of the tv, there is a sticker i think that shows 4 digits, there should be a H or an S for samsung, if you dont see that then you have a different panel good luck

Alright, after some more time with the set, I'll comment on my experiences with the 3D. First off, I received a 46" model as a Christmas gift from my dad, and when I informed him of the half res 3D issue, he was pretty upset. He told me that he definitely thought he was specifically buying a full res 3D set when he picked it out, and that he would have chosen another model had he known that this wasn't full res 3D. Since I didn't buy it myself, I don't have the sense of betrayal many of you other guys do, nor did I have the chance to see how misleading the advertising was in the store.

Anyway, I've stopped playing pc games in 3d. I find the 1920x1080 resolution more appealing than lower res 3d. The 3d isn't bad - actually quite interesting the first few plays when the novelty of it is still fresh. I'd just rather have 1920. Depending on your video card, the lower resolution 3d may max out your GPU anyway and make the whole issue moot. I don't play on consoles, so I have no idea if they output 3d or 1080p 3d or what.
I gave up on the 2d->3d conversion done by the set very quickly. I don't have anything to judge the performance against, but I didn't find it appealing. Certainly not worth wearing the glasses while watching. I spent a bit more time playing around with PC based 2D->3D conversion, but it ultimately failed my "is it worth wearing glasses?" test as well. Having to use a lower resolution setting to view my high resolution 2d movies in 3D was also a significant deterrent.
I've been using Toy Story 3 and Avatar as my main 3d bluray source materials for comparison. Aside from those two titles, I've maybe watched three other 3d movies, so take my 3D prowess for what it's worth. I viewed the two aforementioned disc on my 46" Samsung and a 55" Panny plasma at my dad's house (it was close to $5000 when he bought it last year, and I believe it is/was considered one of the "higher end" consumer sets without jumping up to ridiculous price points). No surprise, the Panny with full res 3D looked better. But not THAT much better. The Panny was (obviously) "crisper," smoother, had more depth, and more realistic textures/surfaces. But the Samsung was definitely watchable. The relatively small 46" screen probably played a significant factor. I found the 3D effects to be so subtle at 46" that I spent most of the viewings debating whether or not 3D movies were even worth watching on such a small screen (I also felt the 55" was too small to really get any fantastic 3D from).

Unfortunately, that's really the best feedback I can give on the half resolution 3D v. the full resolution. Yes, the full resolution was better, but - in my opinion - nowhere near a $1000+ price premium (I don't know the current prices, they may be significantly closer than that now). Overall, I actually decided that I much prefer a nice 1080p 2D image to 3D at any resolution - for the most part. If a new, heralded 3D title comes out, I'll most likely be heading over to my dad's house to watch it.

Someone asked about reflection/glare. Yes, the glare is definitely something to consider when buying/positioning this set. My old set had more of a matte finish, and I never had the late afternoon glare problems I get with the Samsung. The issue is easily remedied by a good drape/curtain on the window, though. And the glare only becomes problematic when the evening sun is coming through a window opposite the wall of the TV. During the day with two windows open and my overhead light on, the glare isn't too bad (but again, this is normally an easy to fix problem short of the set being in a sun room or similar).

Another issue raised was lip sync troubles. I haven't noticed any, but I'm playing all my content through my PC using ReClock, which I believe addresses most lip sync issues. I'm also doing as much video processing as I can on the PC rather than the TV, which may help negate any related issues (I'm no expert on such things). PC games do feel a little sluggish when reacting compared to my Visio set. I don't know the latency of the Samsung nor the previous Visio, but my guess is that the Samsung is slower. I haven't narrowed down all the causes of the apparent sluggishness in games, though, and am not (fully) blaming the Samsung until I can take the time to eliminate every other variable. I also recently downloaded a "Widescreen Fixer" application and plan to try using that while gaming to see if it fixes anything (haven't gotten around to actually testing it yet). Anyone have any experience with that app? I saw that its library comes with MW3 included, and that's one of the games I've really noticed the latency issues in.

For anyone out there wondering (it took me an embarrassing amount of time to figure out) the refresh rates the Samsung supports, they are: 1080p60, 1080p59, 1080p50, 1080p30, 1080p29, 1080p24, 1080p23. I went through a bit of trial and error resulting in "Incompatible Refresh Rate" black screens before I realized that the Nvidia Control Panel lists all the compatible refresh rates. Using my MPHC, MadVR, Reclock playback setup, the screen has no problem quickly jumping from one rate to another.

I initially calibrated the set with the settings linked to in one of the early post in this thread. Since then, I played around with CalPC, and fine tuned a few more settings. I don't really know how to use that software, however, and was unable to get it to work automatically, so I'm nowhere near a "real" calibration. I've found the the original linked settings give an enjoyable, quality picture, though, and recommend those to anyway looking for a quick base calibration. I have the sharpness at 0 to let the PC do that processing (I think that's how it works, if I'm mistaken, please let me know), and the only regular adjustments I make is the backlight setting to fit whatever ambient light situation I'm in.

Hopefully these comments will help somebody. If anyone sees anything I'm doing wrong, or any logic on my part that is incorrect, please let me know.

I do have a question about the color settings I should be using with the Samsung. I know it's been discussed elsewhere, and I've read alot of posts and articles on the subject, but I just can't wrap my head around it. If anyone can give me a straightforward-Samsung-specific answer, I'll love you for it. The question is, given the option, should I use RGB output or YCbYr444? I read an article claiming 444 was the superior color output, but I've since read others that have made me uncertain. I've set my dynamic range to the full 0-255 setting. I'm outputting everything through an Nvidia card, and the control panel for the card's color output is very glitchy. About 90% of the time it fails to switch between RGB and YCbYr444, so I haven't been able to really do a back and forth comparison of the two. I'm currently (stuck) at YCbYr444 and the seems fine, but there's always the possibility that my eye's have just gotten used to it.

I also think that MadVR does not support 444 output, and I watch all my videos using that renderer. So I may not be seeing any benefits from the YCbYr444 in regards to video no matter what. That question really belongs in the HTPC section, but if anyone knows, let me know.

YCbYr444 "should" give you the best results. That said, I didn't find any observable difference. What are you using to drive the TV?

I will admit, the half-res 3D thing is a "little" perturbing, but I didn't really buy this TV for 3D. I bought it because of its other qualities and the small bezel was a real plus for improving WAF. Personally I'm more put off by the decreased brightness due to using the glasses than I am by the half-res part. On a 46" TV it's far less noticeable than it would be at larger sizes.

Thanks for the reply. Truly appreciated.

I'm using an overclocked GTX470 to output the video. Hopefully that's what you mean by drive (forgive my ignorance). I was using the new 301.whatever beta drivers, but experienced weird delay and player hangs when skipping through videos, so I'm back to the 296.10 drivers. Mini-HDMI from the PC to regular HDMI to the TV, and I have the Nvidia HDMI audio disabled.

I completely agree with you in regards to the 3D not being an issue as far as my viewing is concerned. I've yet to encounter a situation (other than wanting to play around with it initially solely for the gimmick factor) where I've wanted to watch a full resolution 3D movie. And while I would like the ability to use 1920x1080 with 3D in the occasional game, playing in 3D doesn't really seem at all conducive to serious multiplayer FPS gaming.

3D seems to be a hot topic with new sets, though, so I figured I'd add my experiences in regard to the Samsung.

Thanks again for the feedback.

I have been comparing the und7000 and und6400 for some time now and had a picture quality question. When glancing at the forums I see many posts regarding the 7000's clouding/flashlighting issues. However when I look at the 6000/6400 thread I do not see nearly as many posts regarding this issue.

-My question is can anyone tell me if the 6000/6400 in particular has less flashlight/clouding issues then the 7000? Also is the PQ similar in the 2?

Thanks in advance!
-Paul

I want to thank Matt Malone for the very detailed write ups. Please have your dad adopt me as well. At least around X-mas present giving time!!


I disagree. I've been reading U##D6000 & U##D6400/6420 posts for a couple of hours and I had YET to run into any information alerting me to any kind of problem.
He didn't harp or repeat the warning in this post, IDK about the rest of the people but I am very thankful I happened to find it. I was considering spending $7## for a floor model 40" TV. The 2d picture looks absolutely amazing but considering that it's prices considerably higher bc of the 3D features basically an extra $200-$300 off the discounted price to me is a 3D excise fee, so I want to know if the extra $200 - $300 for this TV (already discounted from ~$1,100) was worth it.


Thank you for posting the information. I'm still unclear re: niceguys posting whether the 6420 (U.S.) - TV @ BB would suffer from it or not. After I get some sleep I'll come back and read more.

So check this out - here's my 6420:



They're coming to replace the panel. Other than 80-90% grays the image looks great. Sadly, the terrible vertical banding is totally unacceptable. I'm hoping that the replacement fixes it.

Anyone else have this problem? I assume it's a flaw in the backlit LED array.

I don't have the vertical bands but it looks from the picture that you have two horizontal bands as well. I also have one, visible only when the image is darker than about 30% brightness. Items in that band seem darker but only when they are already dark; bright items look fine.

The effect is less obvious than the reflections that inevitably show up on the screen, so I'm not worrying about it.

Version 1029.2 for this TV is now available:

http://forums.solidsignal.com/content.php/663-Samsung-RVU-TV-1029-2-upgrade-is-now-available

Picked up a 55" 6400 this past weekend, it was a floor model and I think I got an awesome price on it. I wasn't planning on buying a TV at all, but walked past the sign saying they were trying to get rid of the 60 and 55 inch floor models, so I picked it up. Not doing any research on this TV before buying I still had 90 days to return if I dont like it. Costco

Went home wall mounted this and started watching some Olympics. Picture is amazing compared to my old Sharp 52 inch lcd panel(LC-52D62U).

Now the bad... I put in my 1st blu ray, watching it through a PS3 slim connected to an Onkyo Receiver sr-605. The Audio sync is horrible. I performed the latest firmware update yesterday to see if that would help, and it didn't.

I manually set the AV sync delay on the receiver to max 100ms. The Audio is still ahead of the picture.
Now I will go home and try to turn off the 1080/24p on the ps3 to see if that helps.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to remedy this audio sync issue? I really like this TV and dont want to return it.

To fix the sync issue I turned off 24p on my Panasonic 210 player. I used the Disney WOW BD disc which has a great sync calibration tool, and I ended up with a 105ms delay. I set that delay for all inputs and I never have any issues. As for turning 24p off, I did hours and hours of A/B testing, and I can see no difference in the picture between 24p being off and on. So for me the obvious solution to a very annoying problem, was to turn off 24p.

thanks for the info!
I am def turning 24p off when I get home today. I just hope my delay is not high above 100ms as my receivers max delay is 100ms.
Just looked into getting a Disney WOW BD.

I bet in a few more years, all products will be auto-sync capable. Until then, we will have to do what we have to do. Some golden eye purists *might* be able to see the difference between 24p being off & on at the BD player, but I sure as heck can't. Also, make sure you only use Clear in the AMP section, as ANY other setting, including off even, will produce weird behavior......Blurring, chopping, ghosting, ect... No matter what setting you select in custom, or the default standard and even off, will all make you want to return the TV immediately. Why is every other setting "broke"? I don't know, but lucky for us, the Clear setting works great. There is a thread on this forum titled something like "Is AMP broken", and you can get more info there. Also, make sure that the color space is kept to auto (unless you're using custom) as native will create a large red push issue, as well as over saturate all colors.

Other than those things, it's a great TV!

AMP is set to "clear" as that is one of the first settings i played around with, I also came with the same conclusion that "clear" was the only setting that looked "right". Even turning it off made the audio sync worse.
I will check the color space as well.
Picture is pretty much perfect, HUGE improvement coming from a native contrast ratio of 2000:1. I can actually tolerate dark scenes now.
just gotta deal with the audio sync issue now and this set will be perfect.

Really surprised a newer set from a top manufacturer does not support auto lip sync.