a most excellent NEW screen material from Menards - Page 3

Essentially Yes...although it comes from a different Mfg. Some times it's actually priced a little lower as well.

thanks MM.

is there a reason to choose Sintra over the much cheaper white board?

The Sintra is specifically made to be painted upon. And it can never warp or deteriorate like a Hardboard. Still, TWH is less expensive.

Nevermind, found my answer.

If you're pre-drilling the holes and screwing into the wall, will attaching just the sides be adequate, or do you have to put some screws across the length of the top and bottom? I'm wondering as having to put screws in the top and bottom means you no longer have 49" of height, and thus will have to reduce the screen size.

Ok, so the board will sit on the trim along the bottom which supports the weight. Screws on the sides. And then silicone adhesive in the center of the bottom and top lengths. I assume this is to keep the board from bowing in the middle? What if the wall itself isn't perfectly straight?

Here is a question: How would one recommend building a frame for something like the Sintra in order to mount it when you cannot simply screw or glur it to the wall? The wall that my screen is on has windows in it (They are blacked out but the wife will not let me rock over them) so I have to mount on something that protrudes from the wall...

I currently have a 104" BOC screen that I am pretty happy with, but I would like to build screen 2.0 out of something like the 6mm Sintra and increase my screen size a bit to around 110".

I used a 8x3x1 board cut from the material I used for the frame to mount on. It allowed my frame to sit off the wall just enough to clear the casing for the window.

So from the advice in this thread, I built a screen from this material. I used one of the boards from Menards and cut the width down so that I had an inch or two extra on each side. I bought some metal clips used to wall mount mirrors, spray painted them white, and used them to mount the board to the wall. I tried using one clip at each corner, but the middle bowed out a bit, so I decided to go with 4 each on the top/bottom. When the projector is on, you have to purposely look for the clips to notice them. This worked out great allowing me to not sacrifice any height by using screws through the screen.

The border was some cheap ranch style casing from Menards, covered with velvet. I mitered the casing corners and cut it to length. My girlfriend bought the velvet so I have no details on it, I just know it wound up in the $10-$20 range. She wrapped the casing and stapled it on the back. I mounted it to the wall by shooting finish nails through it with my nail gun.

All in all, it turned out looking very nice and was very inexpensive.

ghostee,

Nice job on the screen. Plus your girlfriend was involved in helping out with HT.....better stick with her.

I now need to attach such a sheet to my wall, and I'm thinking that the Hangman cleat I got has screws that are too long for the sheet of melamine-MDF. Deck screws around the perimeter? Or finish nails, maybe? Anyone done this successfully and care to share their technique?

I suggest using 1/4" or 1/2" Plywood Shims glued to the rear of the material

I actually wound up using the trick pb_maxx recommended: screwing a thin piece of wood to the wall after carefully leveling it, setting the sheet of MDF on top of it, and then using just a few screws on the sides to secure it to the wall. The wood is thin enough that it'll be covered by the velvet-wrapped frame. I'll see about snapping a picture or two of the results.