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MY HT 2nd time around...

post #1 of 71
8/31/11 at 7:19am
Thread Starter 
Hello all,

Going to re-do my HT in the basement for the 2nd time.
I will start in about a month from now.
I've had a HT Room for about 15 years and this time I want it done right.
I started with a 32 inch TV to my now 4th projector in the 15 years.

My priority no.1 is Soundproofing the room to the rest of the house.
I want my sound to stay in the HT room.
I have been reading for a little over a year now and "think" I am ready.
Man, there are so many beautiful HT rooms here that I'm totally inspired!

So here it is:
Room size stripped is 17'8"L x 15'1"W x 7'8"H.

Option 1:
2x4 all around (3 walls are foundation walls) 1" of the foundation wall.
Insulation (Pink unfaced), vapor barrier, RSIC-1 clips and DD with GG in-between. (Is this OK?)
For ceiling: RSIC-1 clips and DD with GG in-between.

Option 2:
Closed cell spray foam 2" on the 3 foundation walls, 2x4, Insulation (Pink unfaced), RSIC-1 clips and DD with GG in-between. (Is this OK?)
For ceiling: RSIC-1 clips and DD with GG in-between.

Thanks in advance for any guidance and help offered.


Here's a picture of my room stripped.
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post #2 of 71
8/31/11 at 10:10am
Great that you're asking before you get too far.

Option #1 is close. I'd start with that. All you need to do is eliminate the clips fom the walls. They are already decoupled. Use R19 fiberglass in ceiling, R13 in walls.

Consider the big holes now. Ventilation and doors

Side note: foam is not our acoustical friend in this case. Avoid foam and use fiberglass.
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post #3 of 71
8/31/11 at 11:04am
I would venture to say that if you are asking questions (which is great BTW)...you aren't quite ready...although on second thought...I guess it depends on what you are ready for. Is your layout available to post?
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post #4 of 71
8/31/11 at 11:07am
Are your questions entirely based on sound proofing concerns, or are you also concerned about water intrusion? I'm starting to build a home, and I've been going through the basement waterproofing ringer, and the whole double vapor barrier issue comes up a lot. Do you know anything about how the outside of your basement walls are constructed from a waterproofing standpoint?
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post #5 of 71
8/31/11 at 1:25pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you all in advance for your responses. I appreciate your feedback greatly.

Ted, I'll need to order some RSIC-1's and some green glue and have no idea how much I need and where to get it. Please help!
Also thank you soo much for your response. I know you're very knowledgeable.

Question?
Can I not put 2" spray foam from foundation to 2x4 then put R13 insulation and so on?
Is this a bad idea?

Shawn,
You're completely right, I'm ready but not quite.
I wish I can put a layout but don't know how to draw one up for attachment.
I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do as a layout and by that I mean,
Where the chairs, speakers, screen, front stage, back stage, lights, plugs, soffit, doors, ventilation are going to be. I have been collecting lots of pictures (from here) and am ready to tackle this project.

J_P_A, Yes I am also concerned about water intrusion.
No I have no ideas how the outside wall is made.
Here's what I know...house is 52 years old. been living in it for 20 years. Never had water leakage. After striping everything, the basement is super dry. Wall was covered with a plastic sheet, no insulation and then sheetrock. Never had a problem with humidity downstairs.

Then Irene came along and not a drop of humidity anywhere. We got 4 inches of rain here.

I know I have alot of work to do and can't wait to start.
I'm just worried about doing it right the first time.

I hope I've answered your questions and hope I can continue to get help cause I need it.

Kind Regards,
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post #6 of 71
8/31/11 at 3:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post
You're completely right, I'm ready but not quite.
I wish I can put a layout but don't know how to draw one up for attachment.
I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do as a layout and by that I mean, Where the chairs, speakers, screen, front stage, back stage, lights, plugs, soffit, doors, ventilation are going to be. I have been collecting lots of pictures (from here) and am ready to tackle this project.
If you want to do it right the first time, as you have specified, I would suggest drawing up the full plan and dimensions of everything. Talk with Ted or possibly a professional designer if you want no mistakes on this. It's the little and often overlooked things that always seem to jump up and bite. Then they become BIG issues. You'd be amazed how troublesome a half an inch can be.
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post #7 of 71
9/1/11 at 4:01am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

If you want to do it right the first time, as you have specified, I would suggest drawing up the full plan and dimensions of everything. Talk with Ted or possibly a professional designer if you want no mistakes on this. It's the little and often overlooked things that always seem to jump up and bite. Then they become BIG issues. You'd be amazed how troublesome a half an inch can be.

Thanks SierraMikeBravo,

My biggest problem is being in Canada and not knowing anyone who understands all this stuff.
Where can I reach Ted and how?
Thanks
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post #8 of 71
9/1/11 at 4:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

You'd be amazed how troublesome a half an inch can be.

Yeah! That's what s... - Too easy, just too easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

I wish I can put a layout but don't know how to draw one up for attachment.

If you're not au-fait with a drawing program use pen and paper then scan it - we're not here to judge your computer abilities. What would be useful to the people here (and in turn useful to you) is the sizes including support poles and ducts, your idea for the layout and the aims for the room. A quick sketch with dimensions can go a long way.

Top marks for 'doing it right'. It takes a lot of guts to rip down whats there and start again.
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post #9 of 71
9/1/11 at 4:35am
If you don't have a scanner just put the sketch in a well lit area and take a pictue.
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post #10 of 71
9/1/11 at 6:03am
That house is 52 years old? I ask because that looks like a poured concrete basement with Steel I-beam. 50 years ago I think they were still using concrete block foundations and built up dimensional lumber beams. If it's the typical concrete pour then it likely has the black tar stuff on the outside and thats it....In your case though it's not a concern as you have already stated that it's been dry for many years.
p.s that support post, is it on a steel plate? if so it may be that way because it was added later and is not on a proper footing.....
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post #11 of 71
9/1/11 at 6:17am
Thread Starter 
OK...here's a plan I drew on how my finish will look like.
I've added the front stage and back stage which I did not have on my previous HT room.
Please remember I've had a HT ROOM for approx 15 years now. It's that I have completely stripped down my basement and want to start over with PROPER soundproofing being my main objective.

Here's the quick drawing I made...please accept my apology for the quality and lack of drawing skills.


Thank you all
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post #12 of 71
9/1/11 at 6:23am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Holmes View Post

That house is 52 years old? I ask because that looks like a poured concrete basement with Steel I-beam. 50 years ago I think they were still using concrete block foundations and built up dimensional lumber beams. If it's the typical concrete pour then it likely has the black tar stuff on the outside and thats it....In your case though it's not a concern as you have already stated that it's been dry for many years.
p.s that support post, is it on a steel plate? if so it may be that way because it was added later and is not on a proper footing.....

Hello Chris,

My house was built in 1959 and it's poured concrete 10" thick.
The support post you see, I moved it and placed a 24"x24" 3/8 thick plate at bottom of support post. I moved it from the 12' location to the 15' location of the foundation wall.
An architect approved.
It's a bungalow with a living room upstairs.
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post #13 of 71
9/1/11 at 6:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

Thanks SierraMikeBravo,

My biggest problem is being in Canada and not knowing anyone who understands all this stuff.
Where can I reach Ted and how?
Thanks

Ted can be reached at the Soundproofing Company. I am sure there are several companies within Canada who can assist you. There are also several US companies who also operate in Canada.
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post #14 of 71
9/1/11 at 1:03pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

Ted can be reached at the Soundproofing Company. I am sure there are several companies within Canada who can assist you. There are also several US companies who also operate in Canada.

Tedd contacted me via PM before I got a chance to do so.
Now that's service!

Thanks for your help Shawn...I can't wait to get started.
Plan is to start the HT in about a month...I need to finish the rest of the basement 1st. That should take no longer than a month.
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post #15 of 71
9/6/11 at 4:59pm
Thread Starter 
Well I almost finished the framing.
My next move is to rework the duct work.
I'll be redoing it soon I hope.


Here's most of the framing done and how it looks.
All 2x4 all around 16 apart.


Now I need to order some...
Green Glue
RSIC-1 clips (how much?)
Can someone guide me to where I can get these since I'm in Canada?

Thanks all
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post #16 of 71
9/7/11 at 4:35am
We sure do if that's of any interest.
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post #17 of 71
1/16/12 at 5:48pm
Thread Starter 
Well it's been awhile now but I have made some progress.
I had to finish the other room 1st.

Now I'll be concentrating on finishing the HT room.

Some pictures.

This is my reworked duct


Insulation and whisper clips with Hat channel installed


Vapor barrier installed.


Whisper clips and hat channel installed on ceiling with speaker wiring


Rear of room now with DD and GG with soffit and puck lights installed.


Front of room now with DD and GG with soffit and puck lights installed.


Puck lights installed


Both Vents (1 out and 1 return) are backer boxed with sonopan filled


Now I have been watching scenes of all kind of movies for the past 2 weeks (
I've already put 25 hours on my brand new JVC RS45 projector)
I now boxed it up and put my old projector in it's place...

I'm abit lost here and have hit a wall.
I do not know how far to make my 1st row of seats.
My room is now 14' wide X 16'10" Long. My height to the bottom of the soffit is 6'11"

I have no choice to do the riser with 2x6 and 2 layers of OSB 7/16 with GG.
As you can see from the picture above (where the black chair is) it is now at 11 feet from the screen wall. My screen is 108" across. I would like the 2nd row to enjoy the movie and sound experience too BUT do not want the 1st row to suffer.

So, my question is...is it ok to have the 1st row at 11ft?
Would this be too close?

My wife and I have watched a couple of scenes at 11ft and it seems ok.
What do you think?

thanks in advance

Lots left to do
Riser, Stage, side colums, acoustic panels painting, carpeting, etc....
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post #18 of 71
1/17/12 at 7:23pm
Thread Starter 
I was hoping to get some feedback but anyways...
I've decided that 11ft will have to do in order to have a decent 2nd row experience.

My new question is regarding the front stage and riser that I'll be doing.
Does it make sense to use 2 layers of OSB with green glue in between when these will be screwed onto the 2x6 at the bottom?

Thanks in advance
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post #19 of 71
1/18/12 at 6:27am
The eyeballs of someone sitting in my first row are 11.5' from a 130" 2.39:1 screen. It is intense, but most people like it...a lot. My second row is at 17' and it's a different feel.

Tinker with the seating distance a bit and see what you enjoy, as well as what you limits are.
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post #20 of 71
1/18/12 at 7:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

My new question is regarding the front stage and riser that I'll be doing.
Does it make sense to use 2 layers of OSB with green glue in between when these will be screwed onto the 2x6 at the bottom?

I hope you put the OSB on the top of your stage not the bottom. Yes GG makes sense, Three layers with GG is even better. This is based on my last client's theater who had a professional plan from a well known forum personality. Don't forget the sand.
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post #21 of 71
1/18/12 at 8:32am
Thread Starter 
carboranadum,

Thanks for your feedback, I just checked out your build thread and must say you did a hell of a job on it. absolutely beautiful !!!

BIGmouthinDC
sorry about my writing...of course I meant on top of the 2x6.
I will be filling both the stage and riser with sand.

BIGmouthinDC, don't mean to sound gay but I completely admire the work you've done. I have salesman hands and it takes me forever to do anything construction wise. I can't believe how some are so fast and efficient with this stuff.
Most of the times I am overwhelmed but get through by coming to this forum and reading my brains out. sometimes searching is not that easy.

Like now I read so much on risers that I now know NOT to attach it to the walls. I need to leave a 1/2" (?) gap between the walls and the riser/stage.

Also on putting it directly onto concrete floor and read to put roofing felt? on the floor.

Waiting for my friends pickup to get all the material to build the stage and riser and will show more pictures.

I have now decided to go with 2x8 for the riser with 2x5/8 OSB with green glue in between filled with sand of course.
That will leave me 6'2" approx from riser to bottom of soffit.
I guess I have no choice cause I want the 2nd row to enjoy the movie experience too.

Thanks all for the help and advice
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post #22 of 71
1/18/12 at 8:55am
Hey Fatshaft, I just came upon your thread and it is of interest cause I also live in Montreal (well Laval actually) and I too am looking to build a HT in my newly stripped basement. My home is a 1961 construction therefore just about the same age as yours.

Please let me know how everything is going with your build as I would be very interested to hear your steps and various obstacles. I am looking to start slowly. I will be working on the bathroom/laundry room first before tackling the home theater but I too would like to do a good soundproofing job if possible.

Regards
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post #23 of 71
1/18/12 at 9:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Great that you're asking before you get too far.

Option #1 is close. I'd start with that. All you need to do is eliminate the clips fom the walls. They are already decoupled. Use R19 fiberglass in ceiling, R13 in walls.

Consider the big holes now. Ventilation and doors

Side note: foam is not our acoustical friend in this case. Avoid foam and use fiberglass.

Ted,

I know this is an old post, but just for clarification: Are the walls already decoupled because they are exterior/foundation/concrete, they are 1" away from the foundation walls, or am I misunderstanding your post?
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post #24 of 71
1/18/12 at 9:59am
If the stud wall is 1" or whatever from the foundation, then it (the foundation + the new stud wall) is considered a decoupled double wall.

This framed wall may or may not be directly connected to the joists. We would prefer that the new stud wall was not connected, however this does not change the fact that it is a decoupled wall.

Thanks!

Ted
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post #25 of 71
1/18/12 at 10:52am
Ted,

If the new stud wall was not directly connected to the above floor joists, then how would you connect the 2 elements?
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post #26 of 71
1/18/12 at 10:59am
An IB3 Clip does the job. One every 5' or so
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post #27 of 71
1/18/12 at 12:02pm
Ted, usually the top plate of a stud wall is screwed in`fixed at every joist no? Now you are saying to attach the top plate onto the IB3 clip at every 3rd joist. Will this be strong enough for the wall? Maybe I'm not understanding it correctly?
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post #28 of 71
1/18/12 at 12:05pm
You are understanding this correctly. The wall is plenty strong. Many people likel me have no IB3 clips at all. Just a purely free-standing room in a room.
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post #29 of 71
1/18/12 at 12:08pm
Thanks!

Let us know if you have any questions or need any help!

CJ
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post #30 of 71
1/18/12 at 12:11pm
So you're saying the stud wall is only fixed at the bottom plate? This sounds like it would wobble.
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