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MY HT 2nd time around... - Page 3

post #61 of 71
It looks like you've been making quite a lot of progress! Things are coming together nicely!
post #62 of 71
Where is the rest of the thread? Last update was May and it looks like you were nearly done. I was reading through this and really like the color of that trim, was looking forward to seeing it complete.
post #63 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by benclement11 View Post

Where is the rest of the thread? Last update was May and it looks like you were nearly done. I was reading through this and really like the color of that trim, was looking forward to seeing it complete.


Hi, I`m really sorry for the lack of updates...not much was done and will be getting back into finishing my room in the near future.

I`m having a serious problem and am asking for professional help.

I have since upgraded my subs to some very powerful subs driven by close to 10,000watts just on the subs.
In this video what you are seeing is directly above my HT Room.
I have whisper clips, hat channels DD with GG and the low frequency has no respect for the soundproofing I did.
th_MVI_9198.jpg

My question is:
Since i will be redoing all my floors upstairs, what can I do to help this situation?
What would be the best option to help kill the transmission of Low bass.
Can anyone help?

Thanks
Edited by Fatshaft - 12/18/12 at 6:03pm
post #64 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

My question is:
Since i will be redoing all my floors upstairs, what would be the best option to help kill the transmission of Low bass.
Can anyone help?
Thanks

Bump,

Anyone?
post #65 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

Bump,
Anyone?

Clearly what you need is an exorcists... that table is possessed.
post #66 of 71
One thing you could try is adding more mass to the floor. Additional layers of OSB with some type of damping between ( MLV or green glue?) could help. Then again, with that much sub power who knows? I'm no expert, but if the floors are being re-done anyway then it couldn't hurt. Issues are of course that your doors and baseboard would need to be worked on also.
post #67 of 71
Thread Starter 
Yes, I believe that would be my only choice.
I'm just not sure if there's anything further I can add to help.

Thanks
post #68 of 71
Nice build Fat. BTW, your table video helped me a lot, my wife complains of ULF vibration until she saw your vid, now she considers herself lucky!tongue.gif
post #69 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

Nice build Fat. BTW, your table video helped me a lot, my wife complains of ULF vibration until she saw your vid, now she considers herself lucky!tongue.gif
Lol Dave, that fact that your Earth Quake proof, all concrete house isnt destroyed by your 2 IB Arrays is a miracle in itself!!

btw Fatshaft, my wife would throw me out on the street if i caused that kind of disturbance.. lol. wow. I hope you are able to tame that LF! keep us informed
post #70 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

Hi, I`m really sorry for the lack of updates...not much was done and will be getting back into finishing my room in the near future.

I`m having a serious problem and am asking for professional help.

I have since upgraded my subs to some very powerful subs driven by close to 10,000watts just on the subs.
In this video what you are seeing is directly above my HT Room.
I have whisper clips, hat channels DD with GG and the low frequency has no respect for the soundproofing I did.
th_MVI_9198.jpg

My question is:
Since i will be redoing all my floors upstairs, what can I do to help this situation?
What would be the best option to help kill the transmission of Low bass.
Can anyone help?

Thanks
Dude, this is the coolest video! Even had my wife smiling saying "I bet his wife LUVS that". wink.gif
post #71 of 71
I would add as many (undersized joist) pieces between the actual joists that you can. Like if your joists are 2x8 on 16" centers then cut as many 2x6s to 14.5" and nail/glue to tie the joists together in literally as many places as you can.Like make a "H" shape thoughout the entire spans. I would think doing this at 18-24" intervals would help tremendously. This would require removing the subfloor but bet you would get more dampening this way than adding a second layer of subfloor. Then dont skimp on the subfloor, use the best you can afford (and screw it down) for the max thickness without having to undercut all your trim work around the doors.

This would be almost like adding troughs to the ceiling joists. I had my framer add extra troughs in my attic and the ceiling doesnt flex hardly at all.
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