The "official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A710/810/1010/2010/3010 thread - Page 8

Currently I'm successfully controlling my PS3 using TV remote (over HDMI CEC).
Has anyone succeeded to control PS3 connected to Yamaha receiver using Yamaha remote?

I am thinking about pulling the trigger to replace my present Yamaha HTR-6280. It is just not handling the switching from my Oppo BDP-93, the Dell computer I use with Media Center and my Mitsubishi WD-73838. As long as I switch to the Radio in between all is well, but going back and forth ends up with rainbow colors and some other issues. I suspect mixing 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 HDMI standards has at least a little to do with it. I also have presence speakers in use and the installed back surround are dead with 7.1.

So the question is after getting used to 105 watts on the HTR-6280 will the 150 watts and features of the 3010 be worth $500 or so more than the 140 watts of the 2010? I don't do 3D at the present, but that could come later.

Here is my set up presently.

Yamaha HTR-6280
Dell Quad Studio Computer for Media Center use via HDMI output
Oppo BDP-93 Blue Ray Player
Klipsh F3's as mains
Klipsh C2's for center
Klipsh S2's for sides
Klipsh wall mounts for rear surrounds
EarthQuake 15" Sub-woofer
Room is 17' wide and 42' long with side and end hallways.

I see that the 3010 shows higher level 3D capability, 10 more watts and 11.2 pre-outs along with better control over some of the settings as an advantage. Is there really anything to push me to the 3010 over the 2010?

Does the RX-A1010 display audio format on front panel while decoding? (i.e. Dolby True-HD)

It takes an increase/decrease of 3 db to detect a change in volume. At least for most people. To gain that 3db requires a doubling of power. So as your 6280 has 105w would mean needing 210w for that 3db gain. So having 140, 150w would really only give you a bit more headroom.

Yup! You hit the Info button on the remote to display what you want on the front panel.

Thank You.

My Son in Law said very similar, but not as specific which helps my understanding. So that means the 10 watt power difference between the 2010 and the 3010 is pretty much nothing. Are you aware of any features on the 3010 that would make it worth $500 more than the 2010 to me or someone else? I do prefer having the 9.2 so I can utilize my existing speakers and that makes the 2010 the minimum. I just don't' want to buy and then figure out I missed the boat on significant advantages worth the extra money. As I said I am not a 3D fanatic though I will probably use it at some point and the new Oppo should be pretty good at 3D as well. Though I do spend some time tweaking the sound I am not going to go too crazy there either.

I do have a pair of 400 Watt powered 15" EON G2 JBL's that might make for an interesting 11.2 though.

3010 vs 2010:

YPAO with Angle Measurement
* 11.2 channel pre outs
* 4th zone with optical
* Backlit remote control

The 3010 (I've been told) also has more manual video processing settings.

I'd say there are no major differences and that the $500 extra is a bit steep, although a backlit remote is nice.

That said; I chose the 3010 anyway because I'd hate to find myself missing one of those features in the future and cursing my cheapness

Will that remote work on my 710?

If everything else was the same between two AVRs but one had more audio channels, then its going to be more expensive. And one needs to look on the net for prices, there is a wide range in prices. So the real price difference between the 2010~3010 might not be $500. I've recently seen the 1010 for $210 below list, which is the model I'll most likely buy. And as I already have a Parasound 2205A amp I've got twice the power of the 1010.

Anybody know what DAC is employed in the 2010? Does it natively decode DSD?

Any sales on the RX-A2010 anywhere right now? All the usual suspects are at the same MSRP price.

All Yamahas can decode DSD, most convert to PCM for DSP, very few offer a direct DSD->Analog pathway.

Yes, that it probably my biggest issue as well.

I have found you have to be careful with the web pricing. I noticed that the lowest priced stores never mention warranty. When I contacted the 3 lowest priced ones they were up front that they only offer 30 to 60 day warranties through themselves and there was no 3 year factory warranty. Another had a 2 yr warranty, but it was an aftermarket one not Yamaha's. The fourth did reply that they provided the 3 yr Yamaha warranty, but they clearly stated so on their ad and you need to look for that and I would recommend asking as well. The difference between the 2010 and the 3010 at the lowest priced full warranty store I found is right at $400 though not $500 so that does help as you suggested.

Always check the Yamaha web site for authorized internet dealers. You'll get the 3 years if they are on Yamaha's list.

It would seem in Canada that you get 4 years. All Aventage Yamaha receivers at my dealer are offered with a four year warranty (in writing). That was not the main reason I bought one, but it certainly is comforting to have such a long warranty on something this complex.

I'm a bit concerned with an issue I'm noticing with my A710.
I went to through the onscreen menu to start a firmware update, it appeared to start the process and then reboot the receiver (video signal was lost)

However it's not stuck with the words "Verifying" on the front screen of the receiver. I'm worried to do anything such as power cycle. Can anyone confirm if this is normal?

New Egg was offering gift cards with purchase but I don't shop there often enough to justify a huge gift card....

Any thoughts on this issue? I can't seem to find anyone else with the same problem.

I'm worried about bricking my receiver so it's currently just sitting in this stage until I know the proper thing to do

Call Yamaha!

Came across this interesting thread while trying to get my shiny new RX-A1010's remote control my TV.

Firstly, I'm using a Grundig GU15WDT while learning how to configure this AV Receiver to work properly with my various sources. None of the 5 manufacturer code options supplied by Yamaha on their CD work with this TV. I was able to successfully get the remote to "learn" the relevant button codes as per p117 in the manual. So can switch the TV on/off, channel +/-, volume +/-, mute/unmute and bring up the input menu. Unfortunately, as far as I can see, it does not appear to let my remote learn the equivalent codes for the selection arrows & enter buttons. I get the 6 blinks 'learning failed' indication. Although I can see the available input options, I am unable to pick one. Anyone care to comment on this?

Perhaps of rather more importance, when installed into its final resting place downstairs the TV will be a Sony KDL-40W5500U. There are 26 manufacturer codes listed, and I have tried them all to no avail. Some buttons work, some do not. The TV power on/off button is inactive with all 26 codes. Not good.

Now, I know I could probably teach the remote again for the Sony TV, but I feel that with products from two major manufacturers this should not be necessary.

Anyone with one of this series of Yammie amps know how to make the remote control work with a Sony Bravia HDTV?

Quick question about this, just got a RX-A1010, when I hit the info button, the display alternates between DTS HD MASTER and Dolby PLIIx Movie, is that normal or do I have to change the settings somehwere so the DT HD MASTER stays fixed on the display?

I have now A1010 running at home and sharing results.
First, good news. Yamaha remote handles PS3 like a charm over HDMI CEC. Also, when I press Bluray scene button on remote, TV input is automatically set to HDMI1 (a line from receiver). If I press a TV channel button, receiver switches to TV input and TV switches to corresponding channel. Very nice.
Sadly if I press TV scene, TV does not switch back to tuner.
Also, I'd prefer that if I switch off receiver, my TV would switch off as well, not to start screeching through internal speakers.

I noticed two unexpected issues with the receiver. First, YPAO decided that all my speakers are "small", smth that no receiver has done so far, as the speakers are far from "small". So I manually changed front and center speakers back to "large" leaving surround speakers as "small" for now.

Second unexpected issue is that automatic lip sync seems not to work. I don't know why and is it because of receiver or TV, but it is serious issue for me. Setting it manually would be bad option, as it would not allow me to change scenes on TV (as different TV scenes have different lags).
Suggestions are welcome.

I want to upgrade from my RX-V667 to a larger yamaha amp.

Can anyone who has previously owned this amp ( or a similar one ) tell me what sort of an increase in sound quality I would get.

Max music listening volume is -15 - -20.

Volume is not an issue. I'm just interested in getting a better sound out of my speakers.

Would an A1010 cut it for an upgrade ( are the components similar across the 1010/2010/3010 ? )

I don't use DSP's at all. I listen to all sources with straight/through EQ.

I'm just after a bit more punch, a bit less distortion, and all around smoother sound.

I wouldn't expect any huge jump with the A1010. A speaker upgrade usually produces a much bigger jump in performance than a receiver upgrade. But getting the setup right can also make a big difference.

You have pre-outs. If you want more power then a separate amp is clearly the best way to go.

Following a tip-off from another poster (darthadversor at whirlpool.net.au) and several brief but very helpful telecons with Yamaha AV Technical here in the UK, I now have the solution to my query of post #231.

The RX-A1010 manual p117 'Setting the remote control code for a TV' Step 3 says "Press TV Pwr on/off". I could not get any code to work on either the Grundig GU15WDT nor the Sony KDL-40W5500U by doing this.

If instead at Step 3 I press the Input Selection key for TV Viewing ( in my case TV Audio connects to Audio1 input, the default setting), then input the four digit manufacturer code, the first of 26 supplied by Yamaha for Sony TVs [0038], then I can control all TV functions as if I was using the TV's own remote. Have not tested this exhaustively, but looking great so far!

Unfortunately the same cannot be said for the Grundig, as none of the 5 codes provided work for me! Academic anyway, as the 15" TV is only connected to let me configure the receiver and the various sources. The Sony TV is the one that matters.


The technical guy at Yamaha said to press the relevant Input Selection and Scene keys at the same time at Step 3. Doing this may solve your problem, but don't pretend to understand all of this yet as my amp is new and I need to spend more time with it. Hope this helps.

If you have a subwoofer, try to leave the speakers at SMALL. Let the sub do the heavy lifting for lower frequencies. You'll take a load of the receiver amps and your speakers will benefit from not trying to produce the lowest frequencies (might sound a bit clearer and more detailed). This is true unless you truly have full-range tower speakers (a rather rare beast). You can try different crossover points if you want more bass sent to your front speakers, but you should give it a couple of weeks, at any rate, with all of them set to SMALL. If you still don't like it, you can always switch back.

Thanks for the suggestion. I run B&W DM604 S3 as fronts, which deliver lower frequencies quite nicley, if anything I find them bit too bass heavy for my taste.
Your concirn about amp load is justified as A1010 is pretty much the minimum to drive these speakers.
Currently I have crossover set to 60Hz that has proven itself over the years. But I will definitely fool around with settings when I have the setup stabilized

Your comment about finding the speakers a "bit too bass heavy" reveals another advantage to using the SMALL setting. The ideal placement for bass response is almost (like 99.99%) NEVER the same as the ideal placement for imaging. It is quite possible that by setting your crossover at 80hz in the receiver, you'll find the fronts are no longer "too bass heavy" because those frequencies will now emanate from another part of the room and will not excite the modes that are causing the speakers to sound "too bass heavy". That's what I discovered when I set up my HT speakers years ago. By specs, I thought 60hz would be better but that led to a bit of bloat from my mains (and they're not rated to go all that low).

I encountered this phenomenon again a couple of days ago when I set up my new speakers in my living room for a 2 channel rig. They are bookshelf speakers that are supposed to put out decent bass to about 50hz or so. My placement options are extremely limited and I have no subwoofer in the living room. Placed as best as possible for imaging, the bass was a bit boomy (surprisingly so for their size). They came with port plugs so I could change the +/-3 lower extension to a higher frequency. I tried no plugs, one left, one right and two plugs. Two plugs solved the boominess but left me with bass that was too lean. No plugs was too boomy. One on the left proved the best. The plugs represent a very primitive form of room EQ but even that made things better, if not perfect. If ever I add a sub, I will be able to set the crossover high enough to preclude boominess and improve my bass--though in my current living room, I'm quite satisfied with the overall sound using the one plug (unlike the room with the PJ and full MCH rig, it is not a dedicated room, so room treatments, ideal speaker placement another foot out from the wall and so on are not in the cards).

Just something to consider.