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The "official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A710/810/1010/2010/3010 thread - Page 89

post #2641 of 2854
Hi Ross,

The sources are HDMI with the TV and DVD and iPod through whatchamacallit jacks (red and white audio jacks with 3.5mm connector).

The blue ray is hdmi, i'll test it too now.
post #2642 of 2854
so embarassing. So I swear when I tried the TV earlier it was having the same issues, but that was before I ran the YPAO.

After you asked, I thought to check the DVD. Well, all of a sudden things are working. Then I go back to the iPod, and the lefts are gone again. Check that cable. The white was just a little loose at the back. So now it's working.

Sorry to bother. It was a loose cable.

Thanks
post #2643 of 2854
so embarassing. So I swear when I tried the TV earlier it was having the same issues, but that was before I ran the YPAO.

After you asked, I thought to check the DVD. Well, all of a sudden things are working. Then I go back to the iPod, and the lefts are gone again. Check that cable. The white was just a little loose at the back. So now it's working.

Sorry to bother. It was a loose cable.

Thanks
post #2644 of 2854
why four posts?
post #2645 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW View Post

I have a Comcast X1 STB that I have bypassed from my Panamax power conditioner and its coax surge protection. Was doing some trouble shooting.
Need to hook it back up ASAP.

I'd definitely want to get it repaired if it were mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW View Post

I have a Comcast X1 STB that I have bypassed from my Panamax power conditioner and its coax surge protection. Was doing some trouble shooting.
Need to hook it back up ASAP.

I'd definitely want to get it repaired if it were mine.
How is the comcast X1? Did they charge extra for it or did you just exchange your old box for it?
post #2646 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by pappaduke View Post


How is the comcast X1? Did they charge extra for it or did you just exchange your old box for it?

I like X1. It has lots of pros and some cons.
It doesn't cost extra.
It requires an install. May be a fee for that.
They're requiring Triple Play. (That you have or sign up for home phone service)

The reports I'm seeing for most problems are those that have poor signal quality.
These things need good signal.

My major issue is that it resets to 720P everyday.

There's a forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455102/official-xfinity-x1-stb-thread/

This forum is much more lively;
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r27805390-X1-Xfinity-X1-now-available-to-New-Customers
post #2647 of 2854
Over the years, I've given Comcast 3 or 4 tries (after canceling their services for a long while).

Each time they proved to be incompetent. I have sworn to never have Comcast ever again. They can call themselves Xfinity as much as they want. Never again!
post #2648 of 2854
Yep, I know what you mean. When someone has burned you and you are just done.
post #2649 of 2854
For those of you with multiple subs...when you ran YAPO, did you EQ them using one sub output and the spiting them with a ''Y'' connector, or did you just use both sub outputs and let YAPO do it thing?
post #2650 of 2854
I'm glad you asked a sub question.

I started out with two JBL PB12 subs front of room, left and right. They're powered by a RX-V990. These subs were notorious for faulty Class D amplifiers. Unfortunately as many active subs are.

They're connected to my 2010 via Sub 1 and 2 outputs.

Well I've bought two more PB12 subs to go in the left and right rear of my media room. Obviously if they were actively amplified I would have granular control of levels. But since I'm using the 990's A & B outputs, all I can adjust is balance.

Anyone have any opinions on this? I didn't think about level adjustment before adding two more subs. Thanks
post #2651 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW View Post

I like X1. It has lots of pros and some cons.
It doesn't cost extra.
It requires an install. May be a fee for that.
They're requiring Triple Play. (That you have or sign up for home phone service)

The reports I'm seeing for most problems are those that have poor signal quality.
These things need good signal.

My major issue is that it resets to 720P everyday.

There's a forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455102/official-xfinity-x1-stb-thread/

This forum is much more lively;
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r27805390-X1-Xfinity-X1-now-available-to-New-Customers
Thanks for that info Capt. I'll be checking out those forums before I give comcast a call. I want to know as much as I can before I bite.
post #2652 of 2854
Hi,

I already asked this before, but I want to know if more people is having this problem and we can make Yamaha release a new firmware to solve them. I have a RX-A3010 firmware 1.37(I think it could happen to RX-A2010 or RX-A1010 too) and it has the following problems:

1- When using composite video from VCR or Laserdiscs to HDMI, the screen blinks black or hangs black.

2- With the latest version of firmware the receiver takes more time to start to decode audio.(like the initial second or two at the beginning of a movie).

Please try to check if you have the same problems.
post #2653 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post

For those of you with multiple subs...when you ran YAPO, did you EQ them using one sub output and the spiting them with a ''Y'' connector, or did you just use both sub outputs and let YAPO do it thing?
I'm 99.9% sure that if you want to gain the full benefits of the YPAO setup you'll want to use the separate connections so YPAO can do its thing correctly. (i.e. measure accurate distance and EQ information, with the corresponding room calculations, for each sub.)
post #2654 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post

For those of you with multiple subs...when you ran YAPO, did you EQ them using one sub output and the spiting them with a ''Y'' connector, or did you just use both sub outputs and let YAPO do it thing?

If you have the 1010 or lower it makes no difference, because the two outputs are identical (it's one sub signal split internally, therefore the same distance and level for both). Also the 1010 and lower do not EQ the sub.

For the 2000 or 3000 it's better to use both sub outputs because they are independent (separate level, distance and EQ).
post #2655 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

If you have the 1010 or lower it makes no difference, because the two outputs are identical (it's one sub signal split internally, therefore the same distance and level for both). Also the 1010 and lower do not EQ the sub.

For the 2000 or 3000 it's better to use both sub outputs because they are independent (separate level, distance and EQ).

Thank you for your response. I have the 3010 (love it by the way!). I was reading a review of the 3020 on another forum, and that individual stated that YAPOn measures the subs separately for equalization. He went on to say that in his view ''it is nearly impossible to equalize subs independently and then combine their equalized responses to result in a flat response.'' He goes on to suggest to EQ both subs using one output with a splitter. Any thoughts???
post #2656 of 2854
The two subs might be better EQed together, but then you would have to manually set level and distance (actually you wouldn't have to have both play equally loud, but it would be best if you made sure they were close to the same level before running YPAO).

Ultimately you should probably try it both ways and compare (you can use the two speaker patterns to make it easy to switch). But given that YPAO EQ is not very precise for the subs (not enough choice of filter frequencies), and that overall sub level is the most common complaint with YPAO, any differences you hear probably don't really prove which method is better.
post #2657 of 2854
I wouldn't use a Y connector if you don't have to.

If you only want 1 sub equalized, use YPAO or manually EQ it. Then turn on sub 2 and copy settings.
post #2658 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW View Post

I wouldn't use a Y connector if you don't have to.

If you only want 1 sub equalized, use YPAO or manually EQ it. Then turn on sub 2 and copy settings.

I'm kinda' dense with these things. How do you copy and apply the settings from sub 1 to sub 2?
post #2659 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

The two subs might be better EQed together, but then you would have to manually set level and distance (actually you wouldn't have to have both play equally loud, but it would be best if you made sure they were close to the same level before running YPAO).

Ultimately you should probably try it both ways and compare (you can use the two speaker patterns to make it easy to switch). But given that YPAO EQ is not very precise for the subs (not enough choice of filter frequencies), and that overall sub level is the most common complaint with YPAO, any differences you hear probably don't really prove which method is better.

Thank you for your response.
post #2660 of 2854
Stupid question here...

I've had my RX-A2010 for half a year, now (upgraded from an RX-V750), and I absolutely love it.

Generally, my daily listening/viewing habits include two-to-four hours of music via CDs, SACDs, or .wav files stored on a USB thumb drive (no radio, no streaming), one film (shiny-disc only), and fairly often, a couple of hours of televised sports broadcasts.

I almost never utilize any DSP. For DVDs, HD-DVDs and Blu-rays, I use either the "Straight" mode, or "Pure Direct".

For music -- if I'm alone, I use "Straight", and if I have company, I use "9-channel"... wherein lies the problem. On my A2010, switching from Straight to 9-channel produces a 5-6db increase in volume.

So... is this normal? The A2010 has been like this since the day I got it, so I initially just accepted it as being so... but as time has gone on, I'm finding it to be increasingly annoying. I've searched through the manual, and I can't find any mention of this sort of differential, nor any way to adjust it. My feeling is that either my A2010 is defective, or (again, out of sheer stupidity) I'm missing something really obvious.

Any insight would be hugely appreciated!
post #2661 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Stupid question here...

I've had my RX-A2010 for half a year, now (upgraded from an RX-V750), and I absolutely love it.

Generally, my daily listening/viewing habits include two-to-four hours of music via CDs, SACDs, or .wav files stored on a USB thumb drive (no radio, no streaming), one film (shiny-disc only), and fairly often, a couple of hours of televised sports broadcasts.

I almost never utilize any DSP. For DVDs, HD-DVDs and Blu-rays, I use either the "Straight" mode, or "Pure Direct".

For music -- if I'm alone, I use "Straight", and if I have company, I use "9-channel"... wherein lies the problem. On my A2010, switching from Straight to 9-channel produces a 5-6db increase in volume.

So... is this normal? The A2010 has been like this since the day I got it, so I initially just accepted it as being so... but as time has gone on, I'm finding it to be increasingly annoying. I've searched through the manual, and I can't find any mention of this sort of differential, nor any way to adjust it. My feeling is that either my A2010 is defective, or (again, out of sheer stupidity) I'm missing something really obvious.

Any insight would be hugely appreciated!

My 3010 does the same. I think what you're hearing is 9-channels of processed signal vs. Straight which is unprocessed, and if the source is only a stereo mix then Straight should only be outputting 2-channels. I tested this out with my 3010 as I have an external 2-channel amp for my mains, and separate amplifiers for the remaining channels. I grabbed my SPL meter and switched the DSP between Straight and 9-channel stereo with ONLY my 2-channel amp turned on so there was no sound from the speakers other than my mains. There was almost no difference in the SPL measurement coming from the mains, although I should note that I'm using Natural EQ which is "milder" than than the Front and Flat EQ's in my setup. This tells me that the mains are not increasing in volume when switching the DSPs back & forth. With my other amps off and the 3010 in 9-channel stereo mode, I then put my ear up to the main left channel and listened for a bit, then turned on my remaining amps. I didn't hear a difference in volume on the main left channel, but there was audibly a big difference in overall volume when the other speakers kicked on, which sounded like about a +6db boost like you said. So I think really it's just the fact that you're introducing more speakers and processing vs. Straight, unprocessed music.
post #2662 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by red_5ive View Post

I then put my ear up to the main left channel and listened for a bit, then turned on my remaining amps. I didn't hear a difference in volume on the main left channel, but there was audibly a big difference in overall volume when the other speakers kicked on, which sounded like about a +6db boost like you said. So I think really it's just the fact that you're introducing more speakers and processing vs. Straight, unprocessed music.

"Of COURSE!", he shouts, completely chagrinned at having his blatantly-lacking logic so politely pointed out.

Seriously... it's yet another case of missing the obvious, by habit of overthinking during analysis. Placing my ear close to my left front speaker, and switching between Straight and 9-channel on the A2010, there is no difference in that speaker's volume whatsoever. Not sure why I expected that in going from 2.2 speakers to 5.2, the addition of three speakers would not add any amplitude to the overall level of sound... but I obviously did.

Apparently, though... your assessment that the real culprit is the processing that the 9-channel mode adds, is correct. It's just that from reading its description in the user manual, I got no indication that such would be the case.

Anyway, after performing your ear-to-speaker test -- which I will hereafter always refer to as the "amplitude crawl" wink.gif -- I then compared the Straight mode's output to the output of all of the various "unprocessed surround decoder" modes, while seated in my Listening Position. Prior to today's experiments, I suppose I just refused to believe that the surround "decoder" modes were somehow "unprocessed" (especially since each one of the modes produces a distinctly different sound), while at the same time believing that the 9-channel mode is unprocessed.

Interestingly... I discovered that while it's true that switching between the various decoder modes does produce individually discernible sound "shapes"... all of their volume levels remain exactly the same as the "Straight" volume level.

Conclusion? No more 9-channel. About an hour's worth of mixed-genre playback has me settled on Neo:6 Music mode for all of my non-critical 2-channel music listening.

THANK YOU, red!
Edited by B 26354 - 7/20/13 at 8:34pm
post #2663 of 2854
I changed the password to my Sirius account online today. So obviously I am "Not connected" when I try to listen on my A710. How can I change the password on the receiver to the correct one? I see no place to do it. Pressing "ENTER" with "Not Connected" highlighted does not take me anywhere. Thanks.
post #2664 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by peters4n6 View Post

I changed the password to my Sirius account online today. So obviously I am "Not connected" when I try to listen on my A710. How can I change the password on the receiver to the correct one? I see no place to do it. Pressing "ENTER" with "Not Connected" highlighted does not take me anywhere. Thanks.
You have to delete the account.
post #2665 of 2854
thanks. finally figured it out on my own last night:

Had to go to the "on Screen" menus---->INPUT---->scroll over to Sirius IR
>press arrow up to open it's settings (this was the hard part as the wrench and gear icon to indicate settings was grey and tiny)---->remove/delete acct
>redo login info
post #2666 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by peters4n6 View Post

thanks. finally figured it out on my own last night:

Had to go to the "on Screen" menus---->INPUT---->scroll over to Sirius IR
>press arrow up to open it's settings (this was the hard part as the wrench and gear icon to indicate settings was grey and tiny)---->remove/delete acct
>redo login info
Glad you got it. Couldn't remember where that part was exactly.
post #2667 of 2854
I wish there were more options than level for 9 channel stereo. I guess that's what the other DSP's are for. But it would be nice if I could adjust delay, etc
post #2668 of 2854
I'm using a PS3 Slim as my primary Blu-ray player. What are the correct settings I need to use on both my 1010 and PS3 to make the HD codecs light up on my receiver? I'm sure it used to work but it just stopped one day. Thanks in advance. PS3 is hooked up via HDMI to the receiver.
post #2669 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbatc View Post

I'm using a PS3 Slim as my primary Blu-ray player. What are the correct settings I need to use on both my 1010 and PS3 to make the HD codecs light up on my receiver? I'm sure it used to work but it just stopped one day. Thanks in advance. PS3 is hooked up via HDMI to the receiver.
Make sure the PS3's HDMI output is set to "bitstream." My PS3 is not a slim so I can't bitstream HD audio (or see the HD audio menu options) but I'm sure the AVS PS3 subforum or the PS3 support site can give you the specifics.

But....it probably doesn't matter anyway. The HD Audio track needs to be converted to PCM one way or the other so it's really only a difference of where it is done (PS3 or AVR) not if it is done.

It also never hurts to make sure both units have current firmware
post #2670 of 2854
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbatc View Post

I'm using a PS3 Slim as my primary Blu-ray player. What are the correct settings I need to use on both my 1010 and PS3 to make the HD codecs light up on my receiver? I'm sure it used to work but it just stopped one day. Thanks in advance. PS3 is hooked up via HDMI to the receiver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluechunks View Post

Make sure the PS3's HDMI output is set to "bitstream." My PS3 is not a slim so I can't bitstream HD audio (or see the HD audio menu options) but I'm sure the AVS PS3 subforum or the PS3 support site can give you the specifics.

But....it probably doesn't matter anyway. The HD Audio track needs to be converted to PCM one way or the other so it's really only a difference of where it is done (PS3 or AVR) not if it is done.

It also never hurts to make sure both units have current firmware

Just want to add that if you already have the PS3 set to bitstream and are still only getting the vanilla DD or Dolby Digital over HDMI, make sure "Audio Multi-Output" is disabled in the PS3 Sound Settings. This option restricts Dolby TrueHD, Dolby Digital Plus, and DTS HD to vanilla DD/DTS 5.1.

Also, on the 1010, if you use the DSPs, DTS HD-MA is reduced to vanilla DTS. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe this is due to the 1010 (and perhaps the models below it) not having the processing horsepower to engage the Cinema DSP and decode DTS HD-MA simultaneously, in which case the solution is to just set the player/PS3 to LPCM.
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