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The "official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A710/810/1010/2010/3010 thread - Page 92

post #2731 of 2855
Now that iTunes has a pandora like radio, I wonder if we will see a firmware update that allows us to stream from Yammy AVRs pre airplay. Probably wishful thinking, but ones allowed to dream right?
post #2732 of 2855
Well, here we go again.

I purchased an RX-A1010 new in December 2011. August 2012 the HDMI board failed so I had it repaired at the authorized service center in Centennial, CO.

Last month (August 2013) again the HDMI board failed so I took it to the authorized service center. Picked it up this past Monday, September 16.

Now I have to return it again since the on-screen menu is not available. Whether I push the "ON SCREEN" button on the remote or on the faceplate of the unit, nothing happens. Nothing shows up on screen and the units display does not show the "ON SCREEN" message.

I bought this based on history of a RX-V800 that I purchased in 2000 that has been moved between 7 houses in 2 states and still works without ever having need of repair. The RX-A1010 is going in for repair for the third time in less than 2 years, has been in 1 house, 1 room, 1 cabinet.

Has anyone else pushed Yamaha for a replacement unit of the RX-A1020 or A1030? Any insight is appreciated.
post #2733 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbichsel View Post

...Now I have to return it again since the on-screen menu is not available. Whether I push the "ON SCREEN" button on the remote or on the faceplate of the unit, nothing happens. Nothing shows up on screen and the units display does not show the "ON SCREEN" message.

Before you return it, make sure you unplug/replug at the wall to see if that fixes the problem. Various sorts of UI corruption are fixed by a power cycle (and the only way to do that is to unplug it).

If that doesn't work you could try a reset from the Advanced Setup menu.
post #2734 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Before you return it, make sure you unplug/replug at the wall to see if that fixes the problem. Various sorts of UI corruption are fixed by a power cycle (and the only way to do that is to unplug it).

If that doesn't work you could try a reset from the Advanced Setup menu.

Already did both of those multiple times. Thanks.
post #2735 of 2855
I had sent an email to Yamaha US yesterday, Thursday, Sept 19, expressing my frustration that the A1010 would be going in for repairs for the 3rd time in less than 2 years.

Much to my surprise, today I received a response this morning, Sept 20 from Yamaha offering to replace my A1010 with a refurbished A1020. He asked for the relevant info on which service center so he could coordinate.

My questions back:

1. What warranty would be included with the replacement, refurbished A1020?

2. Is there a possibility of having an A1030 replacement as the A1020 will soon be discontinued?

Have not heard back on those yet but was pleased with the speed and offer.

If I understand correctly, there were some technological advances and changes between the A1010 and A1020, correct?
post #2736 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbichsel View Post

I had sent an email to Yamaha US yesterday, Thursday, Sept 19, expressing my frustration that the A1010 would be going in for repairs for the 3rd time in less than 2 years.

Much to my surprise, today I received a response this morning, Sept 20 from Yamaha offering to replace my A1010 with a refurbished A1020. He asked for the relevant info on which service center so he could coordinate.

My questions back:

1. What warranty would be included with the replacement, refurbished A1020?

2. Is there a possibility of having an A1030 replacement as the A1020 will soon be discontinued?

Have not heard back on those yet but was pleased with the speed and offer.

If I understand correctly, there were some technological advances and changes between the A1010 and A1020, correct?
The 1020 has airplay but I'm not sure what other improvements it may have.
post #2737 of 2855
The 1020 has 4K pass-through and upscaling for next-generation high resolution images.
post #2738 of 2855
Stupid question, here. (I've been told that there's no such thing... but I remain unconvinced. rolleyes.gif

I'm doing some low-end frequency-response testing with my brand new Klipsch RF-7 II speakers and my SVS SB12 sub.

My question is, when I'm in "Pure Direct" mode on my RX-A2010, does that mode bypass the "Large" and "Small" speaker settings, and/or does it also bypass the Low-Frequency Crossover settings? My assumption is that along with bypassing "all" signal processing, Pure Direct essentially sets the speakers to Large and eliminates the crossover settings... but I'd like to know.

Thanks!
Edited by B 26354 - 10/10/13 at 11:33am
post #2739 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Stupid question, here. (I've been told that there's no such thing... but I remain unconvinced. rolleyes.gif)

I'm doing some low-end frequency-response testing with my brand new Klipsch RF-7 II speakers and my SVS SB12 sub.

My question is, when I'm in "Pure Direct" mode on my RX-A2010, does that mode bypass the "Large" and "Small" speaker settings, and/or does it also bypass the Low-Frequency Crossover settings? My assumption is that along with bypassing "all" signal processing, Pure Direct essentially sets the speakers to Large and eliminates the crossover settings... but I'd like to know.

Thanks!


That is how I understand it.
post #2740 of 2855
Pure Direct bypasses all DSP processing except any necessary decompression of incoming digital audio formats (Dolby Digital, DTS HD, etc...). No bass management, no presence speakers, no EQ or YPAO room correction. Each speaker gets the input channel assigned to it modified only by the volume control. The subwoofer only gets the LFE channel.
post #2741 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Stupid question, here. (I've been told that there's no such thing... but I remain unconvinced. rolleyes.gif)

I'm doing some low-end frequency-response testing with my brand new Klipsch RF-7 II speakers and my SVS SB12 sub.

My question is, when I'm in "Pure Direct" mode on my RX-A2010, does that mode by? My assumption is that along with bypassing "all" signal processing, Pure Direct essentially sets the speakers to Large and eliminates the crossover settings... but I'd like to know.

Thanks!

I have a 2010 as well and after playing with this a bit over the last year, I believe it does both - bypasses the "Large" and "Small" speaker settings, and also bypass the Low-Frequency Crossover settings. The manual isn't a lot of help with this:



I do know that using Pure Direct cuts off the feed to the sub-woofer (I've only tried this with 2 channel music). I also believe that the front LR speakers (I have RF-83's) reproduce more of he lower end (when I was testing this, I had my 83's set to crossover at 80 Hz). In any case, although the manual doesn't specifically confirm it, i agree with what you think happens.
post #2742 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Pure Direct bypasses all DSP processing except any necessary decompression of incoming digital audio formats (Dolby Digital, DTS HD, etc...). No bass management, no presence speakers, no EQ or YPAO room correction. Each speaker gets the input channel assigned to it modified only by the volume control. The subwoofer only gets the LFE channel.

Thanks Ross (my middle name!). That's exactly what I thought, and what I wanted confirmed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

I have a 2010 as well and after playing with this a bit over the last year, I believe it does both - bypasses the "Large" and "Small" speaker settings, and also bypass the Low-Frequency Crossover settings. The manual isn't a lot of help with this.

I do know that using Pure Direct cuts off the feed to the sub-woofer (I've only tried this with 2 channel music). I also believe that the front LR speakers (I have RF-83's) reproduce more of he lower end (when I was testing this, I had my 83's set to crossover at 80 Hz). In any case, although the manual doesn't specifically confirm it, i agree with what you think happens.

Yeah... the limited description in the manual -- I keep a heavily-highlighted printed copy close at hand -- is why I asked the question.

A while back, I discovered that in Pure Direct (as Ross Ridge explained), each speaker channel (2, 2.1, 5.1) gets its input directly from the source material. It certainly made sense to me that the size and crossover settings were being bypassed, but I thought it'd be nice to have that assumption verified.

I also e-mailed this question to Yamaha Tech Support, by the way... and I'll post their reply when I get it.

Incidentally... there's a ton of ongoing debate in the AVS Klipsch Owners Thread about whether or not high-end AVRs (like the 140 wpc A2010) are able to "adequately" drive speakers in the somewhat power-hungry Klipsch RF-83 / RF-7 II class, without the use of a separate amp.

My personal music tastes lean heavily toward Jazz and Classical -- with some Pink Floyd / Led Zeppelin and such in the mix as well. I'm also a HUGE film-buff (ALL genres), so I LOVE the amazing sound effects on films like Star Trek and The Dark Knight Rises. But my average volume setting for music and film hovers around -18 dB to -15dB in a 14x19x8 room... and the highest it ever goes is about -12. I've probably tried -10dB twice. WAY too loud for in-home listening (and yes, I HAVE stood in the front row at Pink Floyd and The Who and Jimi Hendrix concerts.)

That being the case... I can comfortably say that my A2010 is doing a flawless job of powering the RF-7 IIs -- which, incidentally, have brought a level of imaging and clarity to my ears that I have dreamed of for my entire life.
Edited by B 26354 - 9/25/13 at 12:19am
post #2743 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

I also e-mailed this question to Yamaha Tech Support, by the way... and I'll post their reply when I get it.

Please let us know. it would be great to learn additional details about this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Incidentally... there's a ton of ongoing debate in the AVS Klipsch Owners Thread about whether or not high-end AVRs (like the 140 wpc A2010) are able to "adequately" drive speakers in the somewhat power-hungry Klipsch RF-83 / RF-7 II class, without the use of a separate amp.

My personal music tastes lean heavily toward Jazz and Classical -- with some Pink Floyd / Led Zeppelin and such in the mix as well. I'm also a HUGE film-buff (ALL genres), so I LOVE the amazing sound effects on films like Star Trek and The Dark Knight Rises. But my average volume setting for music and film hovers around -18 dB to -15dB in a 14x19x8 room... and the highest it ever goes is about -12. I've probably tried -10dB twice. WAY too loud for in-home listening (and yes, I HAVE stood in the front row at Pink Floyd and The Who and Jimi Hendrix concerts.)

That being the case... I can comfortably say that my A2010 is doing a flawless job of powering the RF-7 IIs -- which, incidentally, have brought a level of imaging and clarity to my ears that I have dreamed of for my entire life.

I've been following that debate as well. I, like you, play music and especially movies between -18 to -12 maybe as high as -5 once in a while with my RF-83/RC-64 Klipsch front speakers. That's pretty loud and I haven't heard any clipping either. Even so, part of me wants to try out a separate (and more powerful) amp to see if it provides more punch, etc but I haven't done it yet.

I also agree with your being thrilled with the Yamaha A2010 and Klipsch combination. We are indeed fortunate.
post #2744 of 2855
I followed a debate on the paradigm owners thread several months ago about how much power was necessary to drive speakers. That debate went on for weeks and of course no clear cut answer ever came out of it. One guy was so annoying about it that members started removing him. At the end of the day it all comes down to preference and ones listening habits. I have a 2010 driving a 7.1 setup main zone, which changes to 5.1 when I drive my second zone. I purchased a separate amp for my third zone to drive my outdoor speakers. I did that primarily for piece of mind. During BBQ's at my home all zones are being used for at least 10-12hrs and at times fairly loud. Even before the separate I had no problems, just thought it was wise to take some of the workload off of my AVR. Now when I purchase my paradigm studios next year, I may consider a separate for my second zone. Again, this is all preference. I'm sure I could do this with just the AVR, but upgradeitis makes you do some strange things from time to time.
post #2745 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

It would be great to learn additional details about this.

Well... I received a reply from the Yamaha Customer Support Team this afternoon...

"Yes, you are correct. It bypasses everything."

Doesn't get much more detailed than that, does it?

In light of that fulfillingly informative response rolleyes.gif , I'd like to once again thank Ross for his answer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

...part of me wants to try out a separate (and more powerful) amp to see if it provides more punch, etc., but I haven't done it yet.

Can't recall exactly where I saw the post, but somewhere in the midst of that debate (or a similar one), I saw a recommendation for a 2-channel Crown XLS:

http://www.crownaudio.com/xls-drivecore.html

After reading a bunch of reviews of both the 215 wpc XLS1000 and the 300 wpc XLS1500, it was mentioned that the 1000 has a fairly audible hiss, but that the 1500 is dead silent. Nice looking amps, with some really good features and specs... and Amazon has the 1500 for what seems like a pretty reasonable price. At this point, I can't see myself getting one... but who knows how I'll feel in a year or two?

In the meantime, I love my system just as it is. As you say:
Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post

We are indeed fortunate.

I completely concur... most especially in your case, after looking at your "System Pix". What an incredibly beautiful, tasteful and spacious home.
post #2746 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Well... I received a reply from the Yamaha Customer Support Team this afternoon...

"Yes, you are correct. It bypasses everything."

Doesn't get much more detailed than that, does it?

In light of that fulfillingly informative response rolleyes.gif , I'd like to once again thank Ross for his answer.

Wow! So informative! Thanks for trying anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

Can't recall exactly where I saw the post, but somewhere in the midst of that debate (or a similar one), I saw a recommendation for a 2-channel Crown XLS:

http://www.crownaudio.com/xls-drivecore.html

After reading a bunch of reviews of both the 215 wpc XLS1000 and the 300 wpc XLS1500, it was mentioned that the 1000 has a fairly audible hiss, but that the 1500 is dead silent. Nice looking amps, with some really good features and specs... and Amazon has the 1500 for what seems like a pretty reasonable price. At this point, I can't see myself getting one... but who knows how I'll feel in a year or two?

Those are good-looking amps at a pretty reasonable price. They're on back-order right now.

I'm torn on this whole subject because I'm a logical and analytical type person who mostly believes that if my current AVR sounds good at all volumes and doesn't exhibit any clipping, there's no reason to believe that a more powerful amp will make my system sound better. On the other hand, there's the possibility that more power might make things sound better due to the amp straining less and providing more immediate 'punch' for the sound. I know there have been many, many threads that have become heated due to this topic, so I'll stop now so that doesn't happen here. Let's just say a piece of me wants to try it to see if a more powerful amp makes a difference. Just because. rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

In the meantime, I love my system just as it is. As you say:
I completely concur... most especially in your case, after looking at your "System Pix". What an incredibly beautiful, tasteful and spacious home.

Thank you for your very generous and kind words!

My wife gets a lot of the credit for the look and feel with the abundance of plants, etc (and putting up with my hobby). The house is a 3 bedroom ranch that was originally 1200 sq ft. The room you're looking at is a 20' x 20' addition that now makes the house 1600 sq ft. We live in that room and really love it. The 16 feet of glass on each of the three exposed walls makes it very enjoyable -- and a bit of challenge for a home theater room with all the light. Anyway, it's a pretty modest sized house -- but a good size for just my wife and I and we like the improvements that we've made. The pictures you're looking at are a little more than a year old and don't show the current Yamaha RX-A2010 -- instead showing the previous RX-663. Also, they don't show the recently added/changed couch and love-seat . I guess it's time for some new pictures. smile.gif

Thank you again for your kind words.
post #2747 of 2855
I have a RX-A3010. I have the HDMI Out set to 1 + 2 so I can choose where to watch videos and TV and get HDMI quality in both locations. I've noticed that in order to watch on the TV connected to HDMI OUT2, the TV connected to HDMI OUT1 needs to be on. Is this normal behavior?

It's not that big a deal really except the two TVs are three floors apart and the TV connected to HDMI OUT1 has a timeout feature that automatically turns the TV off if there is no activity in 3 hours.
post #2748 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenolio View Post

I have a RX-A3010. I have the HDMI Out set to 1 + 2 so I can choose where to watch videos and TV and get HDMI quality in both locations. I've noticed that in order to watch on the TV connected to HDMI OUT2, the TV connected to HDMI OUT1 needs to be on. Is this normal behavior?

It's not that big a deal really except the two TVs are three floors apart and the TV connected to HDMI OUT1 has a timeout feature that automatically turns the TV off if there is no activity in 3 hours.

I used a RX-A3010 as you do and I did not have to have the tv connected to HDMI 1 on to watch the tv connected to HDMI 2, either with the unit on or in stand bye mode. BUT I also did not have CEC or ARC enabled on either output. You may want to check those settings but in my usage it was not an issue.smile.gif
post #2749 of 2855
Definitely Make a cop of your best buy receipt. If will fade and the your 3 yr warranty is useless for any major repair. You just end up with a flimsy piece of paper with a best buy logo on the back. Bestbuy should address this, maybe it's intentional. Also you'll need it for insurance purposes should your house ever get robbed.

That said, could someone who has a still legible receipt upload a copy of a valid best buy receipt for the purchase of a rx-a2010 for thine of us whose receipts are blank now?

Thx.

I'm going to buy a neat receipt to keep digital copies from now on!
post #2750 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbaumei View Post

Definitely Make a cop of your best buy receipt. If will fade and the your 3 yr warranty is useless for any major repair. You just end up with a flimsy piece of paper with a best buy logo on the back. Bestbuy should address this, maybe it's intentional. Also you'll need it for insurance purposes should your house ever get robbed.

That said, could someone who has a still legible receipt upload a copy of a valid best buy receipt for the purchase of a rx-a2010 for thine of us whose receipts are blank now?

Thx.

I'm going to buy a neat receipt to keep digital copies from now on!


Go back to the store, they can reprint the receipt for you.
post #2751 of 2855
Hi guys I wanted to ask in case anybody has a solution for the problem I have with my RXA810 I bought some 2 years ago, I have tried looking for a solution to my problem on the instructions booklet, but I have not been able to find a solution.

Sometimes, when I watch a soccer game on TV, instead of listening to the TV sound, I would like to listen to the radio. This was easy to do on my old Yamaha RXV371 as listening to the radio would not show anything on screen, but on the RXA810 as soon as I switch to radio listening, it also changes to the "on screen info" for the radio.

Is there any work around that would make possible to watch the TV and listen to the radio at the same time?

Many thanks in advance
post #2752 of 2855
I have a question about the pre outs on the RX-A810.

Although I am very happy with the RX-A810, I use headphones via my old Pioneer receiver to listen to satellite radio at night and control the volume of the headphones. So far I have been unable to input Internet radio from the Yamaha to the Pioneer. I think that the reason is that the Internet radio is digital audio and the input I am using for my pioneer is analogue.

Does anybody know whether I can use the front left and right pre out sockets of the Yamaha for this or is there another work around? I am using the Yamaha in the 7 speaker mode in a single zone.

It's a bit confusing since the Yamaha has sockets for "audio out", "av out", "zone 2 out" and "pre out". There is no "optical digital" out or "coax digital" out.


Very many thanks.
post #2753 of 2855
post #2754 of 2855
Anyone with the latest firmware not having an issue with Pandora/internet radio stations? I'm unable to access them from my RX-A2010 since a month ago. I sent out an email to Yamaha to see if there's something wrong with my receiver or if it's a software code issue.
post #2755 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximizese View Post

Anyone with the latest firmware not having an issue with Pandora/internet radio stations? I'm unable to access them from my RX-A2010 since a month ago. I sent out an email to Yamaha to see if there's something wrong with my receiver or if it's a software code issue.
FWIW, I have firmware v1.37 (latest public) on the A2010 and use Pandora daily. I have not tried any other internet radio stations.
post #2756 of 2855
Have the 2010 and just tried and Pandora plays fine.
post #2757 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximizese View Post

Anyone with the latest firmware not having an issue with Pandora/internet radio stations? I'm unable to access them from my RX-A2010 since a month ago. I sent out an email to Yamaha to see if there's something wrong with my receiver or if it's a software code issue.

My 2010 works fine with Pandora.
post #2758 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximizese View Post

Anyone with the latest firmware not having an issue with Pandora/internet radio stations? I'm unable to access them from my RX-A2010 since a month ago. I sent out an email to Yamaha to see if there's something wrong with my receiver or if it's a software code issue.

I am running two RX-A3010's with the latest firmware and Pandora works fine. I also have a CX-A5000 and play Pandora with no issues. You may want to look at the way you are connected to the internet ie. your home network and insure there are no firewalls or outgoing ports being blocked by your modem/router. Sometimes UDP and TCP ports are disabled by default. Has your modem or router had any firmware updates since your Pandora quit working? I do know that since one of my RX-A3010's are down in my mancave in my shop, when not in use I have it unplugged from power, so when I do use it and plug it in it can take a while for Pandora to get working as the unit has to get a new IP from my home router and setup its internal networking features. This usually takes just a couple of minutes.

Best of luck:)
post #2759 of 2855

When I connect my HTPC to my Yamaha RX-A710 receiver(via HDMI), there is alot of overscan. With my previous HTPC, I could correct this by using the GPU scaling function ATI had.

 

My new HTPC has Intel Integrated graphics and it seems I can't scale the image.

 

When I plug the HTPC into the TV directly, it looks perfect, no overscan. 

 

How can I correct this? My receiver has the latest firmware. 


Edited by shortstop20 - 10/26/13 at 7:29pm
post #2760 of 2855
that is adjusted on the htpc via the display driver settings. You'll want to google overscan settings for intel graphics, or something close to that.
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