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Official "help me choose a soundbar" thread - Page 27

post #781 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewSound86 View Post
 

 

i've almost settled on the LG NB3530A which I can pick up for £140 on ebay which seems like a very good deal...although it has no hdmi i'm perfectly content with it's optical inputs so it's not a problem...

The LG NB3530A for £140 is a good deal. But are you sure optical won't an issue? Are you connecting your source(s) direct to the soundbar?

 

Reason I ask is it's almost certainly your LG--like most late model TVs-- purposely downgrades any surround audio signal input to 2.0 stereo via its optical digital audio out. That's why HDMI ARC (audio return channel) is at top of my soundbar wish list. Note it's not an issue when using the TV's internal tuner; for example using a smart TV's internal Netflix app will send a 5.1 surround sound signal to the soundbar over optical; but if you use a Roku box, Playstation, Xbox, etc. for your Netflix, the TV will convert the incoming 5.1 signal to 2.0 before passing it along through the digital audio optical out.

 

It's very frustrating because a powered soundbar enables you to simply use the TV as the "receiver" to switch inputs...but then this stereo down-mix defeats the purpose of the shiny new "surround sound" soundbar. However the anti-piracy features of HDMI encourages everyone to leave its signal unmolested; thus HDMI ARC is now the only practical way to get a true surround sound signal from multiple sources to your TV passed on to a soundbar.

post #782 of 864
TV: 50" LG Plasma around a year old. I can get model number if necessary.
BD: PS3 via HDMI

I want Dolby Digital for OTA. I get OTA via coax to the wall to my building's antenna.
I want LPCM/DTS-HD for my PS3 Blu Rays via HDMI.

I had a Sony CT150 before but they seem to be hard to find, outdated, and pricey/used. Bluetooth would be nice but a dealbreaker. Budget if possible around $300 but the lower the better. Thank you smile.gif
post #783 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by preludef71 View Post
 

Hi all,

 

I'm looking for a good passive soundbar to consolidate my LCR separates. As with most people on the thread, my wife wants me to reduce the wire clutter and also, remove the hazard of a speaker potentially falling on the baby as she starts to move around. I'll be connecting it to my Onkyo TX-NR717. I've looked at the Definitive XTR-SSA3 and the GoldenEar, but those are a little out of my price range. I'd like to keep it under $500. I'd love to hear any recommendations anyone may have. 

 

Thanks!

 

There are not a lot of options in the passive soundbar market...they're all getting powered these days. The two you mentioned are among the best choices. I don't see anything around your price. Way below that is the Dayton Audio BS36 at $150; but I don't see how a 36" bar could give you a satisfying soundstage if you're coming from separates. Likewise, its 3-3/4" woofers & 5/8" tweeters may be too much of a drop-off for you.

 

Since you're sticking with the mighty Onkyo 717, why not go with In-Walls? Monoprice has some great prices on In-Wall speakers with good-looking specs. If wiring behind the wall is not an option, check out their Cable Management Kit. If your current speakers are too big to mount on wall or shelf, NewEgg is blowing out Pioneer SP-BS41-LR pairs for $70 after rebate. I'm pretty confident you will not find a better value.

post #784 of 864

I have a Samsung UN60F6300 TV and am looking for a sound bar to remedy its anemic sound.  In order to place the speaker in front of the TV (and not view the screen), it can't be any taller than 4".

 

After researching various sound bars, I had settled on the Vizio S4221W-C4.  However, it only has optical in--no HDMI.

 

Unfortunately, my TV (along with many other modern sets) only outputs stereo over optical for any externally connected devices.  We watch TV via an Xbox 360 (Windows Media Center extender) and I would like for the sound bar to do as much of the processing as possible.  I don't believe it makes any sense to output 2.0 to the soundbar if it then has to upconvert to 2.1.

 

We watch mainly TV and movies--through our Blu-ray player, Plex, and Amazon Instant Video.  We definitely don't need a lot of bass--we just want good, clear sound.  Not having to constantly adjust the volume during movies in order to hear dialog would be ideal.

 

Any suggestions?  I love the reviews on the Vizio unit, but the lack of ARC/HDMI is a killer.

post #785 of 864
I was looking at the Vizio 38 inch soundbar which I can get for around $50. It has a subwoofer output. Would the Dayton 1000 sub be a good choice or is too much for the soundbar?
post #786 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw73 View Post
 

...After researching various sound bars, I had settled on the Vizio S4221W-C4.  However, it only has optical in--no HDMI...

 

 I love the reviews on the Vizio unit, but the lack of ARC/HDMI is a killer.

 

Agreed, lack of HDMI ARC is a killer [Are you listening SONOS?] 

 

So why not Vizio's S5430W-C2? It's sized right for your 60" & if bass isn't your goal, rather clear dialogue, I'd go 3.0 over 2.1 all day long.

 

Is it the .16" height over 4"? Five pennies stacked under each corner of the TV stand would solve that problem...

post #787 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

 

Agreed, lack of HDMI ARC is a killer [Are you listening SONOS?] 

 

So why not Vizio's S5430W-C2? It's sized right for your 60" & if bass isn't your goal, rather clear dialogue, I'd go 3.0 over 2.1 all day long.

 

Is it the .16" height over 4"? Five pennies stacked under each corner of the TV stand would solve that problem...

 

The S5430W-C2 is definitely a consideration--especially since Amazon has it for $198 for Prime subscribers right now.  The reviews for it aren't quite as great as the reviews for their 2.1 solution, but I agree that a larger sound bar with a center channel is definitely a bonus.

 

Unfortunately, my Samsung has the "spider" stand, so it's not as easy as propping up the stand a bit.  I think my best bet may be something like this (if it fits):

 

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Stand-Base-Wall-Mount/dp/B00DZVPFGU/

 

I'll definitely have to read some S5430W-C2 reviews today.  Does anybody here own this sound bar?

post #788 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw73 View Post
 

 

Unfortunately, my Samsung has the "spider" stand, so it's not as easy as propping up the stand a bit.  I think my best bet may be something like this...

 

What about mounting both on the wall? It looks great if you can do it.

 

I think it's kinda funny how manufacturers trip over themselves to produce TVs just a few centimeters thick (pushing limits of proper ventilation) when 80-90% of them still end up on top of the old TV stand.

 

And often it's just to cover up the usual rat's nest of wires. Fortunately HDMI ARC finally enables single wire connections between TV, sound system, and source(s)...which is why I wish Vizio had included HDMI switching...thankfully Monoprice sells switches starting around $20. Single wire connections readily opens up potential for even us non-electricians to mount TV & soundbar on wall with sources located elsewhere.  

 

I went with http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whalen-Wall-Component-Shelf-Cherry/24624771 which is surprisingly attractive for $70. Granted this was easy for me since I just consolidated to 2 sources, FIOS DVR & Xbox One, but I'd happily consider adding a 2nd unit side-by-side to accommodate more stuff (like the inevitable PS4). Not only does wall-mounting everything really open up the living space, I love how the components get plenty of fresh air this way. Just food for thought...

post #789 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw73 View Post

The S5430W-C2 is definitely a consideration--especially since Amazon has it for $198 for Prime subscribers right now.  The reviews for it aren't quite as great as the reviews for their 2.1 solution, but I agree that a larger sound bar with a center channel is definitely a bonus.

Unfortunately, my Samsung has the "spider" stand, so it's not as easy as propping up the stand a bit.  I think my best bet may be something like this (if it fits):

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Stand-Base-Wall-Mount/dp/B00DZVPFGU/

I'll definitely have to read some S5430W-C2 reviews today.  Does anybody here own this sound bar?


For the price it is pretty impressive I picked it up for $198.. from amazon and using it with my 65zt60 .I have yet to try the sub out.You can always try it and send it back with amazon.
post #790 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

 

What about mounting both on the wall? It looks great if you can do it.

 

I went with http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whalen-Wall-Component-Shelf-Cherry/24624771 which is surprisingly attractive for $70. Granted this was easy for me since I just consolidated to 2 sources, FIOS DVR & Xbox One, but I'd happily consider adding a 2nd unit side-by-side to accommodate more stuff (like the inevitable PS4). Not only does wall-mounting everything really open up the living space, I love how the components get plenty of fresh air this way. Just food for thought...

 

That's a really nice setup.  Unfortunately, our living room has a chair rail and beadboard on the wall, so there's really no way for me to accomplish the same thing.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bozebuttons View Post


For the price it is pretty impressive I picked it up for $198.. from amazon and using it with my 65zt60 .I have yet to try the sub out.You can always try it and send it back with amazon.

 

I think I'm going to give it a try.  Worst case, we eventually add a subwoofer to the bar.  For $198, I imagine I'm not going to find anything better.

 

I'll probably just have to build some sort of stand to put my TV stand on to get it a bit higher.  I'll get the bar, see how it sounds, and then evaluate from there.

post #791 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

The LG NB3530A for £140 is a good deal. But are you sure optical won't an issue? Are you connecting your source(s) direct to the soundbar?

 

Reason I ask is it's almost certainly your LG--like most late model TVs-- purposely downgrades any surround audio signal input to 2.0 stereo via its optical digital audio out. That's why HDMI ARC (audio return channel) is at top of my soundbar wish list. Note it's not an issue when using the TV's internal tuner; for example using a smart TV's internal Netflix app will send a 5.1 surround sound signal to the soundbar over optical; but if you use a Roku box, Playstation, Xbox, etc. for your Netflix, the TV will convert the incoming 5.1 signal to 2.0 before passing it along through the digital audio optical out.

 

It's very frustrating because a powered soundbar enables you to simply use the TV as the "receiver" to switch inputs...but then this stereo down-mix defeats the purpose of the shiny new "surround sound" soundbar. However the anti-piracy features of HDMI encourages everyone to leave its signal unmolested; thus HDMI ARC is now the only practical way to get a true surround sound signal from multiple sources to your TV passed on to a soundbar.

 

You know I was about 95% ready to go with the LG but I ended up changing my mind...i'm not saying I wont end up getting it but i'm currently more interested in a soundbase option (though soundbar with a built in sub like the Philips HTL5120 is still on the cards) heard about the new Sony HT-XT1 soundbase that can decode both DolbyHD and DTS-HD, heard nothing but good things about the Canton DM-50 (mainly that it's the best Soundbase available at the moment) but it's £400 which is way too much for me I mean the new Sony one I mentioned due out in 6 odd weeks will apparently be priced at £300 which i'd be willing to go to for an exceptional product but £400.....

post #792 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewSound86 View Post
 

 

You know I was about 95% ready to go with the LG but I ended up changing my mind...i'm not saying I wont end up getting it but i'm currently more interested in a soundbase option (though soundbar with a built in sub like the Philips HTL5120 is still on the cards) heard about the new Sony HT-XT1 soundbase that can decode both DolbyHD and DTS-HD, heard nothing but good things about the Canton DM-50 (mainly that it's the best Soundbase available at the moment) but it's £400 which is way too much for me I mean the new Sony one I mentioned due out in 6 odd weeks will apparently be priced at £300 which i'd be willing to go to for an exceptional product but £400.....

 

LOL, didn't you start out looking at a Maxell SoundBase for under £99? Now I feel guilty for pointing you elsewhere. Maxell's SB3000 seems to get rave reviews & at £189 online is much closer to your original budget. The physical size of a soundbar (i.e. narrow) puts a definite ceiling on the soundstage...so I wouldn't expect a massive difference in sound quality between the SB3000 & new HT-XT1. Besides with the Sony you're paying for the Dolby and DTS licensing, and perhaps the name (at least in the States, Maxell is merely a distant, albeit fond, memory for their blank cassettes to record mix tapes.)

 

As much as I like peace-of-mind that my components all have DD & DTS, I'm just not sure how much that matters when every single speaker in a soundbase is confined to roughly a 80 x 40 cm footprint or less. And don't forget, most TV's and sources already have DD & DTS processing...so as long as you're connecting them all with HDMI, the soundbase SHOULD receive a discreet 5.1 digital signal to turn into sound. Reviewers have commented that when you turn on Maxell's SRS processing, the Dolby soundtrack comes to life. On other hand, there are anecdotes about DTS "sounding flat"... but that may have nothing to do with the Maxell unit but rather due to LG's infamous lack of DTS support.

 

Speaking of, that means even with the new Sony, you'd still have to peruse these forums for the AC3 workaround to coerce your LG TV to even pass a DTS signal... No wonder there's so much confusion!

 

Bottom line is these days HDMI ARC is the only way to have any confidence the signal is unadulterated; so I'd write off anything that lacks HDMI ARC, such as the Canton (or SONOS much to my chagrin). And even so, you need to read your manuals very closely for fine print and hints of what codecs are supported or not, e.g LG does not support DTS; Xbox One lacks Dolby; etc. etc. Then consult these forums for workarounds, e.g. the LG firmware/AC3 rigmarole or that Xb1 can pass an uncompressed 7.1 signal which a downstream processor could turn into Dolby TruHD.

 

All that said, if I were you I'd just pull the trigger on the Maxell SB3000 and a few cheap HDMI 1.4 cables, feeling good about its great reviews and bang for the buck.

post #793 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

 

LOL, didn't you start out looking at a Maxell SoundBase for under £99? Now I feel guilty for pointing you elsewhere. Maxell's SB3000 seems to get rave reviews & at £189 online is much closer to your original budget. The physical size of a soundbar (i.e. narrow) puts a definite ceiling on the soundstage...so I wouldn't expect a massive difference in sound quality between the SB3000 & new HT-XT1. Besides with the Sony you're paying for the Dolby and DTS licensing, and perhaps the name (at least in the States, Maxell is merely a distant, albeit fond, memory for their blank cassettes to record mix tapes.)

 

As much as I like peace-of-mind that my components all have DD & DTS, I'm just not sure how much that matters when every single speaker in a soundbase is confined to roughly a 80 x 40 cm footprint or less. And don't forget, most TV's and sources already have DD & DTS processing...so as long as you're connecting them all with HDMI, the soundbase SHOULD receive a discreet 5.1 digital signal to turn into sound. Reviewers have commented that when you turn on Maxell's SRS processing, the Dolby soundtrack comes to life. On other hand, there are anecdotes about DTS "sounding flat"... but that may have nothing to do with the Maxell unit but rather due to LG's infamous lack of DTS support.

 

Speaking of, that means even with the new Sony, you'd still have to peruse these forums for the AC3 workaround to coerce your LG TV to even pass a DTS signal... No wonder there's so much confusion!

 

Bottom line is these days HDMI ARC is the only way to have any confidence the signal is unadulterated; so I'd write off anything that lacks HDMI ARC, such as the Canton (or SONOS much to my chagrin). And even so, you need to read your manuals very closely for fine print and hints of what codecs are supported or not, e.g LG does not support DTS; Xbox One lacks Dolby; etc. etc. Then consult these forums for workarounds, e.g. the LG firmware/AC3 rigmarole or that Xb1 can pass an uncompressed 7.1 signal which a downstream processor could turn into Dolby TruHD.

 

All that said, if I were you I'd just pull the trigger on the Maxell SB3000 and a few cheap HDMI 1.4 cables, feeling good about its great reviews and bang for the buck.

 

Yep i'm getting further away from a final solution as the hours go by, problem with the SB3000 is that it's huge and wouldn't fit on my stand (which really isn't that big to begin with) and even though i'm not overly bothered about its laying slightly over the stand with the SB3000 I think it would be overlaying the stand by a good few inches and would look like an real eyesore and would defeat the purpose of a soundbase solution. I need to stop being silly about it and go with the LG IMO as i'm not going to get a better performer for the price.

post #794 of 864
For this price range I really don't think there's a better buy then Vizios S4251...decodes DTS and DD and provides a great surround experience.
post #795 of 864
Just as clarification, HDMI ARC on most TV's is exactly the same as the optical output. You will receive 5.1 for OTA, everything else will be 2-channel including internet based content such as Netflix, Hulu, Amazon prime etc.

If you have one of the few TV's that does pass 5.1 via all outputs, then you will receive all content in that fashion. Very few do this.
post #796 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by drfreeman60 View Post

Just as clarification, HDMI ARC on most TV's is exactly the same as the optical output. You will receive 5.1 for OTA, everything else will be 2-channel including internet based content such as Netflix, Hulu, Amazon prime etc....

Not true. For example look at p.131 of http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/E-HELP_ST60.PDF ...

"When audio from other equipment connected to this unit via HDMI is output using "DIGITAL AUDIO OUT" [optical] of this unit, the system switches to 2CH audio. (When connecting to an AV amp [or powered soundbar] via HDMI, you can enjoy higher sound quality.)"

By "higher sound quality" they mean 5.1 Dolby Digital because I confirmed this with my receiver. HDMI ARC sends a 5.1 signal, whereas the optical out is downgraded to 2.0 PCM when passing a signal from another source. Note it's NOT due to any limitation with digital optical, it's due to pressure from the digital rights management lawyers, which HDMI is able to protect.

This is why the 2nd sentence is also incorrect... At least with my Panasonic, not only OTA but all built-in apps (Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime etc.) are sent 5.1 Dolby Digital (when applicable obviously) via optical (and HDMI of course). Again this is confirmed but my receiver's display. The confusion may be due to Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, etc. from another source will indeed be downgraded to stereo, as are all external sources.

Again, it's not about tech specs or capability, it's about DRM. Panasonic is authorized to send an unadulterated 5.1 Dolby Digital signal from its internal tuners via optical; but is told to degrade any signal from external sources before it goes out its unprotected digital optical out (lest the TV somehow become a tool to aid and abet piracy). However the inherently DRM-friendly HDMI output does not require such "protection."

So while HDMI and Optical have practically identical audio capabilities, they are no longer the same. The reason I press this issue is because manufacturers (SONOS ahem) are incredulously still producing otherwise fine audio equipment with only a digital optical input. Today, this is like building a great sports car but with the gas tank only connected to two of the eight cylinders.
Edited by jeff19342 - 2/12/14 at 9:27pm
post #797 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

 

Not true. For example look at p.131 of http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/E-HELP_ST60.PDF ...

 

"When audio from other equipment connected to this unit via HDMI is output using "DIGITAL AUDIO OUT" [optical] of this unit, the system switches to 2CH audio. (When connecting to an AV amp [or powered soundbar] via HDMI, you can enjoy higher sound quality.)"

 

It looks like us Samsung owners are out of luck for anything more than 2.0 over HDMI/ARC:

 

"A home theater system that has been connected to the TV using an HDMI cable and an optical cable supports 2-channel audio only. However, the home theater is capable of supporting 5.1-channel audio from digital broadcasts. To listen to 5.1-channel audio from an external device, connect the device to the TV via an HDMI cable and the device's digital audio output connector directly to the home theater system."

 

I'm curious how this will work with the 3.0 soundbar I just ordered.  I can connect the optical from my BD player to the soundbar in addition to HDMI/ARC from the TV (for Smart TV material), but I guess I'm out of luck for TV through my Xbox.

post #798 of 864
Wow, just wow. That's total BS. It's a crime that the world's largest TV manufacturer craps on it's customers like that. I can understand (sort of) DRM concerns with legacy digital connections, but there's just no excuse to mess with HDMI.

How is it 2014 & we still cannot daisy chain all our components with HDMI cables as originally promised a decade ago!? And the unmitigated audacity for Samsung to strip surround sound from "High Definition Multimedia Interface"! Apparently same goes for LG. #1 & 2 TV manufacturers. Ludicrous.

Clearly anyone in the market for a soundbar should avoid Samsung & LG TV's like plague. Check out CNET for "TVs that pass 5.1" Sony, Toshiba, & Vizio pass 5.1 even over optical. And as I said before Panasonic will do it via HDMI. Shop these companies if 5.1 sound via a soundbar is on your list.
post #799 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post

Wow, just wow. That's total BS. It's a crime that the world's largest TV manufacturer craps on it's customers like that. I can understand (sort of) DRM concerns with legacy digital connections, but there's just no excuse to mess with HDMI.

How is it 2014 & we still cannot daisy chain all our components with HDMI cables as originally promised a decade ago!? And the unmitigated audacity for Samsung to strip surround sound from "High Definition Multimedia Interface"! Apparently same goes for LG. #1 & 2 TV manufacturers. Ludicrous.

Clearly anyone in the market for a soundbar should avoid Samsung & LG TV's like plague. Check out CNET for "TVs that pass 5.1" Sony, Toshiba, & Vizio pass 5.1 even over optical. And as I said before Panasonic will do it via HDMI. Shop these companies if 5.1 sound via a soundbar is on your list.

CNETS list only tested a few TVs and is not representative of all TVs from each brand. I have a LG TV 2013 model that passes 5.1 just fine.
post #800 of 864
Looking for a soundbar to go with an 80" set and a very, very large room. Quite ample budget. I would really like a unit that allows use of a non-packaged subwoofer. Because a dinky bluetooth unit cannot compare to a Velodyne, especially in a big room. From what I can tell it seems that the newer high-end soundbars use proprietary wireless links that are built in to their paired subs. Does one exist that uses a non-proprietary standard, or a wired cable, or a transmitter/receiver unit that can be fitted to an existing sub?
post #801 of 864

Hi,

I'm new to the forum,  just found this thread and been reading through it.  Still not sure what soundbar that I should get.

 

I just purchased a Samsung UN65F7100

It's in the living room with a vaulted ceiling.

 

I'm looking for a bar that sounds good,  has a dedicated sub woofer and a good bass response. 

 

I would like a bar that I can control with the TV,   so if I turn the sound down on the TV it goes down on the bar.  I'm just hoping I don't have to fumble around with multiple remotes.

 

I'm willing to spend around $500 total for whatever anyone suggests.

 

Can anyone give some good recommendations.

 

Thanks

Chris

post #802 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisfromwa View Post
 

...Samsung UN65F7100...vaulted ceiling...bar that sounds good, has a dedicated sub woofer and a good bass response...control with the TV...around $500...

 

Control with TV means HDMI ARC, better yet to a soundbar labelled HDMI-CEC (consumer electronics control). Unfortunately as you probably know by going over this forum (or reading your TV's manual carefully), your $2000+ 65" Samsung TV inexplicably downgrades incoming surround sound signals to 2.0 stereo at both its digital optical and HDMI ARC outputs.

 

Thus there's no sense in you spending money on systems with separate rears speakers (like my $500 choice: Vizio 5451) or "sound projectors" like the Yamaha YSPs. And since you're rocking a massive 65" TV, my other suggestion is get a suitably sized bar...but with most bars sized for 42" TVs, there aren't many choices.

 

Sharp's super wide SB60 is an intriguing option but there are some mixed reviews, including complaints about HDMI-CEC sync issues (something you don't want). In your shoes, I'd think about the Vizio 5430 and a separate sub. Though the 5430 doesn't come with a sub, it sports at subwoofer output (pretty unique among soundbars). Add a BIC America F12 475 watt, 12" sub for $193 at Amazon to the 5430 ($275ish) and I'm pretty sure your vaulted ceiling will be filled with more bass than any other $500 soundbar solution.

 

If you prefer your sub to be wireless, you might want to consider the Sony CT660. Personally I don't like the idea of a 46" soundbar under a 65" TV, but Sony is ahead of the curve with connectivity and readily supports HDMI-CEC. It also has 3 HDMI inputs of its own which may further simplify installation with your system as well as preserve the surround sound signals coming from the sources connected directly to it, rather than being connected to the TV (which again will downgrade the incoming 5.1 signal to 2.0).

 

Happy shopping!

post #803 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff19342 View Post
 

 

Control with TV means HDMI ARC, better yet to a soundbar labelled HDMI-CEC (consumer electronics control). Unfortunately as you probably know by going over this forum (or reading your TV's manual carefully), your $2000+ 65" Samsung TV inexplicably downgrades incoming surround sound signals to 2.0 stereo at both its digital optical and HDMI ARC outputs.

 

Thus there's no sense in you spending money on systems with separate rears speakers (like my $500 choice: Vizio 5451) or "sound projectors" like the Yamaha YSPs. And since you're rocking a massive 65" TV, my other suggestion is get a suitably sized bar...but with most bars sized for 42" TVs, there aren't many choices.

 

Sharp's super wide SB60 is an intriguing option but there are some mixed reviews, including complaints about HDMI-CEC sync issues (something you don't want). In your shoes, I'd think about the Vizio 5430 and a separate sub. Though the 5430 doesn't come with a sub, it sports at subwoofer output (pretty unique among soundbars). Add a BIC America F12 475 watt, 12" sub for $193 at Amazon to the 5430 ($275ish) and I'm pretty sure your vaulted ceiling will be filled with more bass than any other $500 soundbar solution.

 

If you prefer your sub to be wireless, you might want to consider the Sony CT660. Personally I don't like the idea of a 46" soundbar under a 65" TV, but Sony is ahead of the curve with connectivity and readily supports HDMI-CEC. It also has 3 HDMI inputs of its own which may further simplify installation with your system as well as preserve the surround sound signals coming from the sources connected directly to it, rather than being connected to the TV (which again will downgrade the incoming 5.1 signal to 2.0).

 

Happy shopping!

Thanks for some of the suggestions, 

Ya I've been reading the forum and trying to get an idea of what to get.

 

I agree about the size of the bar,  I would like it to be close to the same width as the TV.  I think it would look funny to have a bar so much smaller than the TV.   Plus I would think there would be some other advantages of having the speakers further apart too.  

 

The Vizio 5430 was something I'm looking at,  didn't know that you could add a sub I love the idea of adding a more powerful 450Watt sub.   The problem for me is that it's wired,  the TV is mounted on the wall and I wanted to mount the sub in the back of the room up in a cubbie hole out of sight.   The wires make that more difficult.  Are there any add-on wireless subs on the market,  that would give me the same amount of power that would work with any soundbar?

 

I also saw that Vizio is coming out with a new 54 inch bar that has a sub-woofer. I think it's the one you mentioned though,  the 5451.

 

The HDMI downgrading thing is frustrating,  why do they do this?   

post #804 of 864
post #805 of 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by colinhtucker View Post

Looking for a soundbar to go with an 80" set and a very, very large room. Quite ample budget. I would really like a unit that allows use of a non-packaged subwoofer. Because a dinky bluetooth unit cannot compare to a Velodyne, especially in a big room. From what I can tell it seems that the newer high-end soundbars use proprietary wireless links that are built in to their paired subs. Does one exist that uses a non-proprietary standard, or a wired cable, or a transmitter/receiver unit that can be fitted to an existing sub?

There are a bunch that have wired sub outs on the High end .
B&W panomara2
Martin Logan Vision
Monitor Audio just came out with one
On the low end Vizio s5430-c2
There are others check out cnet & sound and vision reviews to get a idea.You can google them.
post #806 of 864

OK,

I think I may have something figured out.

 

How does this system sound?

 

Vizio S5430

Rockfish Wireless Kit connected to a BIC America 12 Inch subwoofer

 

Does this sound like a modest system for my living room?  Any substitutions?

post #807 of 864
Paradigm, Atlantic Technology and higher end Yamaha sound bars have subwoofer out connections. Any of them you could use a wireless adapter if needed.
post #808 of 864
I just remodeled my house and I am simplifying my living room layout. I had a 5.1 system and now I want a soundbar. I mainly watch movies and play video games.

I originally had my eyes set on the Sony HTST7.

If I were to go the passive route and reuse my Pioneer Receiver (5+ years old), what soundbar choices do I have within the $1500 range? Would passive provide any advantage in quality over active? Can I reuse my existing subwoofer?
post #809 of 864

Hello,

 

I am looking for a soundbar with a budget of $2000. My entertainment room has 18' ceilings, so sound gets lost in it. With my current LED TV, dialogue audio is horrendous. 

 

Needs:

- Wireless Subwoofer

- Multiple HDMI inputs

- Dolby TrueHD/DTS HD Master decoding

- Either Airplay or Bluetooth connectivity

- Wall mountable

 

Would like:

- Satellite wireless speakers

post #810 of 864
If you can find some discounts the Yamaha 4100 or 5100 sound bars would work. No wireless surrounds though.
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