Is this wood any good? - Page 3

Could be any number of things...poly, the amp and if it still doesn't sound good after that check for leaks and make sure you have it wired correctly. Could be something simple that is easily overlooked. My bet is the amp as you are grossly underpowering it and 250watts is probably a bit of an indulgence.

Open it up and make sure that no connections came UNdone inside. You might need a signal booster depending on your receiver.

If you connections are good then you probably need a signal booster. Art cleanbox pro and Samson s-convert are both commonly used.

S-convert I believe doesn't have a limiter of 20hz. The art cleanbox is limited to 20hx but there is a mod to change it to 10hz. They don't make the s-convert anymore so you would have to buy it used if you can find it. If you can't find it then your options are pretty much limited at that point.

From reading that you need to use the + from both channels.
You said
"My speakon cables are wired as +1 pos, -1 neg"

You need to wire as
"bridge +1 pos, +2 neg"

Wire the + lead from the speaker to + on one channel, wire the - lead from the speaker to the + lead on the other channel.

You should confirm, but that is the way that the Behringers wire up.

Just looked at your thumbnail. What I said is correct.

Here it is again.

Wire the + lead from the speaker to +1 on one channel, wire the - lead from the speaker to the +2 lead on the other channel.

Why do you think a smaller box will give you more performance/output?

Do you have the equipment to run REW and see what the FR response is for the sub and within the room at various positions?

I built 4 small sealed MFW subs and I made the mistake of not really getting into analyzing what was happening until this past weekend. I found out I had a enormous null where I had placed two of the subs which basically eliminated anything below 70Hz and killed the performance.

Did you model it in winisd?

^^^This, is very different from this ...


What are the actual specs of the driver as I couldn't get the second one above to work in WinISD (kept telling me the qts/qms/qes specs were not compatable). Actually, it kept wanting to calculate a negative qts.

Also, are you sure you have not wired the subwoofer out of phase? You note above that very little volume is coming from it, and that (as I well know) is a common issue.

Okay, managed to get the driver parameters to work (though qts looks different). WinISD is giving me a 24 cubic foot box, and the driver alignment options were odd (1.0 Equal ripple repsonse, 1.1) instead of "0.707 Max Flat Amptitude" which I typically get for drivers that are to be used in a sealed enclosure.

Looks like a great driver for the trunk of a car??



Unless I inputted something incorrectly. I followed the guide here (good link to keep on hand btw)...

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post298892

I don't know why he went with this especially on his first time. Should have gone with a proven design and driver.

Did you get a signal booster yet? It sounds like that is your problem with the lack of power. I would listen to it with proper power before you try changing more things.

Hmmm ... just going back and reading your original thread on the PSi driver, it looks to me as if it was a driver geared towards cars that they then tried to adjust it as best they could to make it more HT friendly??

... and check the polarity before bothering with this as well...

You need RCA-RCA cable to go from receiver to the S-convert and XLR-XLR cable to go from S-convert to the amp. S-convert has RCA inputs and XLR outputs when using it to increase signal voltage.

Hi javygonx,

Uh, if first you don't Succeed try, try again, or buy a new Sub...Now that you respect the work that goes into one! LOL!

I built two Sub Cabs for my Band and I had no idea what I was getting myself into!
I got much help over at ProSoundWeb with WinIsd and just general help from professionals that Build and Design speaker cabinets such as JBL, etc.
They do not cater to Home Theatre at all, so don't think of trying, just Professional or Semi Professional Pro Audio!
You would pick up a few things though by being a fly on the wall, they have a section that deals with Subs but again these are SUBS and not the kind in your living room or bedroom LOL!
It is for Local Bands and Professional Concert Tours but they also use Winisd as well as other Design Programs.


The Bridge Wiring is +1 (Positive) +2 (Negative) You would wire your Speakon this way....
The end that connects to your Speaker cabinet will be left at +1 and -1 for the Speakers Positive and Negative.
The Speakon for your inuke would be wired: +1 is still +1 for the Positive but you would move the wire that is in the -1 or Negative position to the +2 contact for the Bridged Negative.
I know that it seem weird that you are putting the speakers Negative wire into a Positive +2 location on the Speakon connector but that is how Bridging of most Power Amps work.
Make sure that you use a Sharpie or something to mark one of the ends as either Speaker or Amp, because if you reverse this cable you will hear nothing!
Lastly, on my Crown Power amps there is a switch that I need to use for either Parallel or Bridged operation.
Make sure that your Inuke does not have the same thing.

Do you know how to read that Picture of Output settings on the back of your amp?
On the upper Right side where you see one large diagram that shows Channel A, Channel B and Bridged that means that by plugging your Speaker Cabinet's Speakon into JUST Channel A
those combinations are available. Think of it as this, you had 4 wires in your Speaker cable wired to all of the speakon's terminals, +1 -1 +2 -2,
you plugged that connector into just the Channel A Speakon on the inuke, then +1 and -1 are for Channel A of the amp and +2 and -2 are for Channel B of the Amp.
You can now run just one cable from the Power amp to two speakers rather than two seperate cables from the Power Amp's Channel A & B Speakons to each speaker.
The way that this works at the speakers is that one speaker uses the +1 and -1 and then you Daisy chain another Speakon out of that cabinet and over to a second cabinet for the +2 -2 Channel B

I have this setup in my Bands Top Cabinets, it's easier than it sounds, I can run one cable to stage Right and then one cable from that speaker across the stage to my other speaker at Stage Left.
Some speakers have a switch that will set whether it's speakers are using the +1 -1 or the +2 -2 myself I have prewired 2 conductor Cables that are +2 -2 on one end and +1 -1 on the other.
Mark the ends and make sure that you plug the +1 -1 connects into the last speaker, the +2 -2 end will plug into the cabinet with the cable from the amp.
Inside the cabinet their are short jumper wires that connect the two speakons +2 to +2 and -2 to -2 so when I plug in the cable from the Amp it will just pass the +2 and -2 right back out again via the second Speakon connector and it makes no difference which speakon I plug the amp into.
Lastly for Bridged mode you would also plug into Channel A but only using +1 and +2 for Bridged in the Speakon connector!
Again, make sure that there is not a switch for Bridged Mode.

Down at the Bottom it show Channel B all by itself and just +1 -1 that is because that is all that you will ever get out of the Channel B's inuke Speakon.

This amp shows that it puts out 3,000 watts in Bridged Mode @ 4ohms, are you really considering that in your living room?
Even if you ran at 900 watts in Parallel that's an awful lot.
My Bands Crown Sub amps are rated like this and running Parallel in my living room I'm at about two clicks up on my pots.
Way overkill for a Home Theater Sub Amp.
If that amp can't liven up your Sub, it must be dead! LOL!

Good Luck,

Bud B