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Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 413

post #12361 of 13287
1/28/13 at 2:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvzzz View Post

First thing I do I turn off "intelligent and smart" features off including OPC and power savings. It has no impact at all on discoloration. The only thing that makes difference in the green intensity is wether LD is on or Advanced Low. With Advanced Low green is subtle while with LD On it is fully visible. I am impressed by the white screen that pictured, it is absolutely perfect, if I had a screen like I would never bother to exchange, truly stellar screen. Did you photo it in LD On or Advanced Low? If Advanced Low then I am not suprised.
I had just finished entering in N3W813's settings after figuring out how to turn off PS.
So that picture was with LD-ON.
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post #12362 of 13287
1/28/13 at 4:47am
N3W813 - your settings are excellent. I tried CNET first and then yours; the pop I get with yours is just amazing. You said something before that you are not a pro so what did you use to get to these settings?

Another question I have is on 3D glasses for kids - any good brand out there? I did not see Sharp has any for kids.
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post #12363 of 13287
1/28/13 at 4:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjchmura View Post

Just another Geek Squad Xalibration story:

They claim that you do no need to calibrate or "touch" CMS for proper calibration. How can that be true? IS the color managment system under ISF not the only way?

All the modes have a CMS available although I think ISF has more granularity. If they are saying they don't need to use the CMS in THX (for example) that is BS. If you paid for this I would get my money back.
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post #12364 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlmadmax View Post

Hello everybody,

Got my 60 inch elite a little over a week ago on a warranty exchange from my old Samsung 950 55 inch tv. I really loved my old 950 as it was one of the first full local dimming LED TVs and had a great picture.
I originally tried a 65 inch 8000 series Samsung but found the blacks to be under par and the Magnolia salesman told me about the Elite.

I am very happy with all aspects of my elite but there is a deal breaker going on with me right now, I have the flashing pulsing issue with this TV.

This is what happens to my TV,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhPF5xufXiw

Would other elite 60 owners consider this to be acceptable and one of this TVs flaws.

I have my TV hooked up thru a denon avr 3808ci and I have an Oppo BDP-103 as a blu ray player.

This issue doesn't happen on all material making it really annoying but when it does happen it pulls me right out of the movie and ruins the experience for me.

When it is not doing it this tv has a great picture and would be the perfect tv if not for this flashing issue.

I am using thx picture mode and N3W813s picture setting (thank you by the way for taking the time)

I am thinking about trying to have magnolia swap this out with another one any advice would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Max

Looks like the normal pulsing issue we see from what I could tell in that video. This issue can be greatly reduced from a good calibration, mostly you will notice pulsing on walls in the background behind the actors for example inside a house or building anything large, static rather uniform looking in the background like a wall etc. Also note that pulsing shows up more often on poor source material as I don't see it very often on a good blue-ray movie. cool.gif

PS: Make sure you have all the power saving features turned off as this will give a rather similar effect that could be mistaken for pulsing.
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post #12365 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog750 View Post

I'm still occasionally getting these strong blue anomalies. It is rare but it occurs anytime there is a reflection of a strong blue light source and its somewhat overpowering. Im' using Standard and local dimming on and CNET's settings. The blue reflection is showing up in all modes including THX. I also have a pic below from the other time it showed up in the Tom Hanks movie. However, most of the problem in that movie was alleviated by putting it in THX mode. Have any of you guys ever seen this? I read somewhere that Sharp's white led's are actually a combination of blue and yellow. However, if the yellow is degraded, the blue part of the led becomes overpowering. I still have 3 days left to return the set and am questioning keeping it if none of you have ever experienced this (below):






This does not look normal to me and I've yet to experience anything like that within all of my viewing time since I first picked up my Elite back when it was released. If I were you I'd check the source material on another TV if you can to verify it's the Elite causing this issue, you might have a defective set on your hands. cool.gif
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post #12366 of 13287
1/28/13 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RadTech51 View Post

This does not look normal to me and I've yet to experience anything like that within all of my viewing time since I first picked up my Elite back when it was released. If I were you I'd check the source material on another TV if you can to verify it's the Elite causing this issue, you might have a defective set on your hands. cool.gif

Yes, I checked the Blu Ray disk on my Epson 8700 projector and it looks fine with no over saturation of blues. I am trying to exchange it at Best Buy but the manager is having trouble locating another 70". He's going to try to order one directly from Sharp. He did say there are no indications that the set is being discontinued though.
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post #12367 of 13287
1/28/13 at 10:45am
In a worst case Scenario Sharp would fix or replace that. I have never seen anything like that before. If you wanted to you could call sharp and start the process and see who gets a set to you first.......
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post #12368 of 13287
1/28/13 at 11:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nakenergy View Post

N3W813 - your settings are excellent. I tried CNET first and then yours; the pop I get with yours is just amazing. You said something before that you are not a pro so what did you use to get to these settings?

Yes, I'm not a 'professional' calibrator but I do know enough to know how to calibrate a TV. wink.gif

BUT, my settings may only get your set somewhat close to the standard. If you want your set to be more accurate, get a professional calibration. smile.gif

For my calibrations, I used a i1Display Pro colorimeter profiled against a i1Pro2 spectrophotometer with Calman v5 calibration software.
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post #12369 of 13287
1/28/13 at 12:48pm
Well this is embarrassing. It turns out the pic of a singer was a bad source afterall. The pic from the Tom Hanks movie though is an example of artifacts that get produced under just the right conditions when any mode other than THX is used. That's pretty rare though.
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post #12370 of 13287
1/28/13 at 1:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

Yes, I'm not a 'professional' calibrator but I do know enough to know how to calibrate a TV. wink.gif

BUT, my settings may only get your set somewhat close to the standard. If you want your set to be more accurate, get a professional calibration. smile.gif

For my calibrations, I used a i1Display Pro colorimeter profiled against a i1Pro2 spectrophotometer with Calman v5 calibration software.

N3W813 i've been using ur settings over c nets since u posted them thanks their excellent. but i have two questions for u 1 do u use the same settings in thx 3d mode and 2 do you have any other settings for other modes you callibrated thanks
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post #12371 of 13287
1/28/13 at 1:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog750 View Post

Well this is embarrassing. It turns out the pic of a singer was a bad source afterall. The pic from the Tom Hanks movie though is an example of artifacts that get produced under just the right conditions when any mode other than THX is used. That's pretty rare though.

What's odd is that all the artifacts look essentially the same. So if you're saying the one pix that's still legit is a manifestation of the issue, it looks like the ones you ruled out due to poor source material have the same look to them. confused.gif
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post #12372 of 13287
1/28/13 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfdog1959 View Post

N3W813 i've been using ur settings over c nets since u posted them thanks their excellent. but i have two questions for u 1 do u use the same settings in thx 3d mode and 2 do you have any other settings for other modes you callibrated thanks

No, the settings I've provided only applies to 2D Movie THX mode, not 3D. I don't care for 3D, therefore never calibrated the 3D mode. tongue.gif

Movie THX is closest to the standard so that is the only mode I care about calibrating. The only other modes I've calibrated are ISF Day and Night modes, which can't be accessed until specific calibration software is used. (ie. ControlCal, Calman, etc.)
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post #12373 of 13287
1/28/13 at 1:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

No, the settings I've provided only applies to 2D Movie THX mode, not 3D. I don't care for 3D, therefore never calibrated the 3D mode. tongue.gif

Movie THX is closest to the standard so that is the only mode I care about calibrating. The only other modes I've calibrated are ISF Day and Night modes, which can't be accessed until specific calibration software is used. (ie. ControlCal, Calman, etc.)

Newbie, how does ISF calibrated look in relation to THX movie calibrated? Which do you find yourself watching the most? And for movies, HD tv or games?
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post #12374 of 13287
1/28/13 at 2:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post

Newbie, how does ISF calibrated look in relation to THX movie calibrated? Which do you find yourself watching the most? And for movies, HD tv or games?

Very similar, my ISF Night mode looks the same as Movie THX after calibration. The settings used in the ISF modes are in different scale compared to the User accessible modes.

I ONLY use ISF Day and Night modes. ISF Day from 8AM to 5PM then it switches to ISF Night. Settings for ISF Day is exactly the same as ISF Night mode except for brightness, which I increased a bit for better shadow detail for a very brightly lit room during day time, and I've set the IVC mode to Advanced Low. ISF Night IVC setting is set to Local Dimming On.

I have a scheduled program that automatically changes the mode of the Elite on the hour depending on the time via network. smile.gif
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post #12375 of 13287
1/28/13 at 3:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

What's odd is that all the artifacts look essentially the same. So if you're saying the one pix that's still legit is a manifestation of the issue, it looks like the ones you ruled out due to poor source material have the same look to them. confused.gif

This is that concert viewing the source on my Epson 8700 projector. As you can see, the blues are also hideously over saturated. I suppose that's just how they filmed the concert on ATX (HD NET). Probably some attempt at an artistic "lens flare" or something.




And this is Chapter 11 of "Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close" on the Elite with THX and local dimming on. It still looks saturated because its a cell phone pic but in real life it looks completely natural. This is the only scene out of many movies where I've seen this phenomenon. It only manifests itself in this one scene if I move out of THX mode into movie,standard, or higher modes.


Edited by kdog750 - 1/28/13 at 3:17pm
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post #12376 of 13287
1/28/13 at 4:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

Very similar, my ISF Night mode looks the same as Movie THX after calibration. The settings used in the ISF modes are in different scale compared to the User accessible modes.

I ONLY use ISF Day and Night modes. ISF Day from 8AM to 5PM then it switches to ISF Night. Settings for ISF Day is exactly the same as ISF Night mode except for brightness, which I increased a bit for better shadow detail for a very brightly lit room during day time, and I've set the IVC mode to Advanced Low. ISF Night IVC setting is set to Local Dimming On.

I have a scheduled program that automatically changes the mode of the Elite on the hour depending on the time via network. smile.gif

Newbie, could you explain the program a bit more please?
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post #12377 of 13287
1/28/13 at 4:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

Yes, I'm not a 'professional' calibrator but I do know enough to know how to calibrate a TV. wink.gif

BUT, my settings may only get your set somewhat close to the standard. If you want your set to be more accurate, get a professional calibration. smile.gif

For my calibrations, I used a i1Display Pro colorimeter profiled against a i1Pro2 spectrophotometer with Calman v5 calibration software.

N3W813,

Any chance you can post your setting again? (Looked back to the high 300's but didn't see them)

Thanks
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post #12378 of 13287
1/28/13 at 4:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by timbersbimbers View Post

N3W813,

Any chance you can post your setting again? (Looked back to the high 300's but didn't see them)

Thanks

look under his last post and click on link or go to page 384 their in the middle of the page
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post #12379 of 13287
1/28/13 at 6:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

Very similar, my ISF Night mode looks the same as Movie THX after calibration. The settings used in the ISF modes are in different scale compared to the User accessible modes.

I ONLY use ISF Day and Night modes. ISF Day from 8AM to 5PM then it switches to ISF Night. Settings for ISF Day is exactly the same as ISF Night mode except for brightness, which I increased a bit for better shadow detail for a very brightly lit room during day time, and I've set the IVC mode to Advanced Low. ISF Night IVC setting is set to Local Dimming On.

I have a scheduled program that automatically changes the mode of the Elite on the hour depending on the time via network. smile.gif

+1

Calibrated THX Movie and THX 3D movies are both comparable to ISF modes on my Elite as well. I mainly use ISF modes but use calibrated THX movie mode for Netflix, USB movies, etc.
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post #12380 of 13287
1/28/13 at 8:14pm
After much reading I finally pulled the trigger on a 70" elite. It was delivered yesterday and set up late last night (with N3W813's settings), so I haven't spent much time watching it. But I did load up the break-in slides and the screen looked uniform to me, but my eyes may not be as sensitive to the various issues as some of you other guys (this is my first high-end premium TV, it is replacing a 60" Sony LCD projection LCOS TV).
It is a Nov-12 build and I don't see any pink or green blotches on a white or gray screen, so that is good enough for me. And no dead pixels either.

The HDMI cables that I was using with my 7 year old Sony are pretty old and thick (heavy) and I am afraid that they will put too much strain on the Elites HDMI plugs (since they plug in horizontally instead of hanging straight down).

What do you guys think of these cables:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9890&seq=1&format=2#description

They have a chip at each end that is supposed to preserve the signal quality over such a thin cable. Do you think this would cause any issues with lag when gaming on a PS3?
And if these cables aren't recommended, could somebody please point me in the right direction.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed so much valuable information to this thread, I love this TV.
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post #12381 of 13287
1/28/13 at 8:29pm
Regarding the Nov builds. Are the problems people are experiencing with banding and DSE "fixed" by turning off the power save mode? Is there a consensus there is a problem with the Nov 12 batch? Has anyone tried the power save option and it fixed the issues they are having?

Before I take the plunge I want to make sure there are not any issues with the current batch.

-Brian
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post #12382 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsfu View Post


The HDMI cables that I was using with my 7 year old Sony are pretty old and thick (heavy) and I am afraid that they will put too much strain on the Elites HDMI plugs (since they plug in horizontally instead of hanging straight down).

What do you guys think of these cables:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9890&seq=1&format=2#description

.

I use my old cable that was connected to former Sony LCD and don't have any issues with cable even for 3D that suppose to use more vs 2D.
I also got from monoprice another cable that works just fine #9476 15ft 32AWG Mini DisplayPort to HDMI® w/Audio Cable - White without chip
Unless you want upgrade I don't see any reason your old cable needs replacement.
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post #12383 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

Regarding the Nov builds. Are the problems people are experiencing with banding and DSE "fixed" by turning off the power save mode? Is there a consensus there is a problem with the Nov 12 batch? Has anyone tried the power save option and it fixed the issues they are having?

Before I take the plunge I want to make sure there are not any issues with the current batch.

-Brian

Power Save mode was related to pulsing color, not DSE.
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post #12384 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:19pm
r
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsfu View Post

After much reading I finally pulled the trigger on a 70" elite. It was delivered yesterday and set up late last night (with N3W813's settings), so I haven't spent much time watching it. But I did load up the break-in slides and the screen looked uniform to me, but my eyes may not be as sensitive to the various issues as some of you other guys (this is my first high-end premium TV, it is replacing a 60" Sony LCD projection LCOS TV).
It is a Nov-12 build and I don't see any pink or green blotches on a white or gray screen, so that is good enough for me. And no dead pixels either.

The HDMI cables that I was using with my 7 year old Sony are pretty old and thick (heavy) and I am afraid that they will put too much strain on the Elites HDMI plugs (since they plug in horizontally instead of hanging straight down).

What do you guys think of these cables:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9890&seq=1&format=2#description

They have a chip at each end that is supposed to preserve the signal quality over such a thin cable. Do you think this would cause any issues with lag when gaming on a PS3?
And if these cables aren't recommended, could somebody please point me in the right direction.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed so much valuable information to this thread, I love this TV.

any chance you purchased from magnolia/BB?

at this point, im wondering if it is a batch of nov builds that they ended up with that have issues
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post #12385 of 13287
1/28/13 at 9:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

Regarding the Nov builds. Are the problems people are experiencing with banding and DSE "fixed" by turning off the power save mode? Is there a consensus there is a problem with the Nov 12 batch? Has anyone tried the power save option and it fixed the issues they are having?

Before I take the plunge I want to make sure there are not any issues with the current batch.

-Brian
There are issues with every batch produced. Name a model, brand TV, name the build month, or serial number ect ect and you will have issues of some kind. You can try to prevent it any way you like, not going to happen. Every set is made by a human, there for creating issues of some kind.
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post #12386 of 13287
1/29/13 at 12:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsfu View Post


What do you guys think of these cables:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9890&seq=1&format=2#description

They have a chip at each end that is supposed to preserve the signal quality over such a thin cable. Do you think this would cause any issues with lag when gaming on a PS3?
And if these cables aren't recommended, could somebody please point me in the right direction.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed so much valuable information to this thread, I love this TV.

Any Monoprice cable is fine. They all pass HDMI fully.

It is impossible that any existing cable can cause lag when gaming.
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post #12387 of 13287
1/29/13 at 12:27am
Ok guys got to pull the trigger on an 70 inch elite that's 6 months old or a 65 vt 50. I love the picture on the elite but as I watch it it begins to look " cartoony" to me at certain times. I am also worried about fast moving thing like sports and movies with a lot of action. Are there settings to make it so I don't see it or am I just used to my Kuro plasma so that's why I am seeing it. The plasma having the faster refresh rate. What is the opinion on what tv is the one to buy. I know they are both going to have there,own issues but I am not sure which one to choose.
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post #12388 of 13287
1/29/13 at 1:22am
My replacement set should arrive at my local Magnolia tomorrow. It's a good thing I'm having it replace because now my set has another issue. Only 3 weeks old and now having problems with my set receiving IR signals from the original remote. Even my harmony 900 was working flawlessly. And now it doesn't even respond to it. Anyone had this problem before?
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post #12389 of 13287
1/29/13 at 4:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bziggy View Post

Ok guys got to pull the trigger on an 70 inch elite that's 6 months old or a 65 vt 50. I love the picture on the elite but as I watch it it begins to look " cartoony" to me at certain times. I am also worried about fast moving thing like sports and movies with a lot of action. Are there settings to make it so I don't see it or am I just used to my Kuro plasma so that's why I am seeing it. The plasma having the faster refresh rate. What is the opinion on what tv is the one to buy. I know they are both going to have there,own issues but I am not sure which one to choose.

A properly calibrated Elite should look almost identical to a properly calibrated Kuro. I had both (still have the Elite) and aside from the color cyan, colors looked essentially the same.

If you're colors look cartoony at times, assuming it's not in the source, then your settings are not correct.

As for motion, most owners have no issues at all...again with the proper settings.
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post #12390 of 13287
1/29/13 at 4:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

My replacement set should arrive at my local Magnolia tomorrow. It's a good thing I'm having it replace because now my set has another issue. Only 3 weeks old and now having problems with my set receiving IR signals from the original remote. Even my harmony 900 was working flawlessly. And now it doesn't even respond to it. Anyone had this problem before?

That's been a documented issue with a number of the 70s. For some reason it doesn't seem to impact the 60s.
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