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Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 425

post #12721 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluez3 View Post

...

1) I registered my set on the elitelcdtv site. I recall reading here that some were offered an extended warranty from sharp via email. How long did it take for that email to come in? Do you think given their current state, they may not be offering that anymore? Is the service, if they still have it, any better than BB's $700 5 year plan or the $99 3 year extension plan from Costco?
2) when I first turn on the set, the screen lights up with a black screen where it seems the back lights are on full blast and I can see clouding/light bleed all over. Then when it picks up my receivers signal, it tones down to the normal glorious black levels that we know. Is that normal? Should I be concerned with the clouding during that instant as something that could be a problem later?
3) how do I get into the service menu? I don't care to change anything there, but I read there is a way to view the number of running hours on the set in there. It seems accessing that menu is somewhat taboo both here and throughout the Internet, as no google search I have done revealed any answers. Why is that?
4) is there a master reset for the tv? I've gone into the menus and hit the reset option where ever I've seen it, but there are several resets to be done, and i dont know if i've hit all of them. is there an all encompassing reset to get everything to factory defaults and rid the set of any polluted settings done by BB or customers that have toyed with it in store?

Thanks again to all that contribute here.

-Patrick
For reference, I got mine beginning of Dec 2011 from Cleveland Plasma (really, Chris, you should change that name to Cleveland TVs or something rolleyes.gif ) and it's a Sept 2011 build.

1) Took some months before they sent it, didn't buy it, got another offer a month ago. Might check it out, but have no clue what the terms are.

2) Same here.

3) Service Menu
Unplug TV.
Hold down Vol- and Input on the panel (not the remote), plug TV in
Wait until K shows up
Release Vol- and Input
Press Vol- and Ch<<br /> Service menu should show up.

4) Try this:

Once in the service menu go the first entry on the second page labelled "Industry init". Use the right arrow on the remote to change "no" to "yes" and then hit enter. The "yes" changes to a bunch of slashes and in a moment the initial page comes back with a bright green background and a message at the top saying something like "industry init successful." Then unplug the TV and plug it back in again.

Enjoy your set!
post #12722 of 13287
just got off the phone with elite support,the update is not for the cyan or pulsing(flickering issue)unfortunately,they told me there still working on it,this update was for the sets that were not powering back on and had to be resetthe dreamhost web hosting
Edited by ackergwj - 3/27/13 at 6:26pm
post #12723 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

I do most of my calibration in a Lumagen Radiance but to get white temp closer to 6500K I used the sets hi/lo adjustments. Then used the Radiance's 21 point gamma/grayscale not the set's 10 point. Perhaps, I misunderstood your question, but with the set in THX and color set to low the hi/lo changes got close to 6500 and blue was not an issue.

When using the Lumagen do you set all TV settings to default (other than hi/lo)? When using hi/lo what patterns you using, 30/80? I'm thinking of getting the mini. Looks like a solid chunk of cool gear! Last question, does the Lumagen have auto power on and off? Thx
post #12724 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by hutchinshouse View Post

When using the Lumagen do you set all TV settings to default (other than hi/lo)? When using hi/lo what patterns you using, 30/80? I'm thinking of getting the mini. Looks like a solid chunk of cool gear! Last question, does the Lumagen have auto power on and off? Thx

Small changes to backlight, brightness and contrast to set these correctly leaving Radiances black and white at 0. Small changes to the set's overall color and tint to try to fix an undersaturated red. Did 21 point grayscale/gamma in Chromapure/Radiance to see initial color temp and gamma and 100% FL level. Then went to set's hi/lo's thru trial and error to get closer to 6500. Note that I am doing manual calibration not auto cal. With auto cal you would set brightness, contrast etc and the Radiance/calibration software would do the rest. The Lumagen site has info on their recommended sequence of steps. I think the Radiance has an auto on/off setting but I like almost all other users leave it on all the time. Electrical usage is minimal (.5 watts/hr?) You will love the Radiance and Lumagen's customer service.
post #12725 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

Small changes to backlight, brightness and contrast to set these correctly leaving Radiances black and white at 0. Small changes to the set's overall color and tint to try to fix an undersaturated red. Did 21 point grayscale/gamma in Chromapure/Radiance to see initial color temp and gamma and 100% FL level. Then went to set's hi/lo's thru trial and error to get closer to 6500. Note that I am doing manual calibration not auto cal. With auto cal you would set brightness, contrast etc and the Radiance/calibration software would do the rest. The Lumagen site has info on their recommended sequence of steps. I think the Radiance has an auto on/off setting but I like almost all other users leave it on all the time. Electrical usage is minimal (.5 watts/hr?) You will love the Radiance and Lumagen's customer service.

Awesome, thanks for your info.
post #12726 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post

Bluez3,

I don't know about the other questions, but I can tell you my set also has very light black for the first 2-3 seconds before it goes near jet black. If you see no issues with normal content I wouldn't be concerned.

+ 1
post #12727 of 13287
sick mom, gene wild, gbrussel, another dude, ad10ad,

thank you all for your responses. glad to know others see this initial clouding also. it definitely does not show up during regular viewing, and does not appear when using all black test slides.



hi another dude,
the "industry init" you describe, i am guessing you have done it on your set before.

does it kill any panel specific adjustments made by the technicians at the factory to compensate for LCD panel variations during manufacture? should i write down values in the menus before i do this? this level of reset seems a lot more potent than a consumer level reset that i would figure should have been accessible in the standard menus.

maybe i won't do that just yet. i'd hate to kill my set by resetting too much. i did that once to my XBR400 once, and it was a pain to get all the screen geometry adjustments of the CRT back to the way the set was delivered in the box.

thanks.
Edited by bluez3 - 2/26/13 at 1:14pm
post #12728 of 13287
bluez3, to tell the truth I don't really know. I did it a long time ago and didn't notice anything bad happening. I think it was from somewhere in this thread. I'll see if I can dig up where it came from.

Edit:

OK, I found this post which is the same but looks for "factory init" smile.gif

Factory Init
Edited by AnotherDude - 2/26/13 at 4:28pm
post #12729 of 13287
Thanks. I got to see what I wanted in the service menu, I think will leave the thing alone.

Interesting discovery, center acutime is 42 hours, backlight acutime is 347 hours. Backlight seems self explanatory but what is center acutime a measure of and why would it differ that greatly from the backlight time? I doubt any one at BB would have the foresight to reset these timers. Even if I took the worst of the two numbers, this still indicates to me that the tv is a lot younger than I had anticipated.
post #12730 of 13287
Quote:
just got off the phone with elite support,the update is not for the cyan or pulsing(flickering issue)unfortunately,they told me there still working on it,this update was for the sets that were not powering back on and had to be reset

Which update are you talking about? the one from last August? The update from last August is version 2.19; I cannot find what has been fixed in there nor a list of all previous updates. Did they say when there will be another update?
post #12731 of 13287
Does anyone here know if the ARC HDMI will Pass The HD Blu-Ray Codecs to a yamaha sound Bar that is able to handle these, or is Dolby Digital the limit ? I have a Oppo BR that has 2 HDMI out so I can use one of these straight to the sound bar, but if the Sharp will pass them on VIA ARC HDMI that would be nice.
Thanks,
Glen
post #12732 of 13287
I just received my 70 (floor model) and have some questions.

What do you recommend for cleaning screen smudges? Damp microfiber cloth?

I get small black bars (approx 1/8 inch) on some 1:85 aspect Blu-ray discs. Is this normal? Is there a fix?

Time Warner Cable does not look all that impressive. Anyone else agree? How does picture look with DTV?
I plan to have it professionally calibrated so I anticipate the picture will improve even with a TWC source.
post #12733 of 13287
Drexel, congrats on an excellent set.

The best "cleaner" is distilled water on a microfiber cloth. Never use chemicals.

You will be seeing black bars on certain movies. It is dependent upon the aspect ratio. Movies like The Dark Knight and The Dark Knight rises even change during the movie. The IMAX footage image quality is second to none, looking even better than the rest of the film.

Cable picture quality in general varies greatly from channel to channel and even show to show. Don't judge the TV on cable. A reference, calibrated set gives you what you give it. The old saying "garbage in, garbage out" applies here.

The Elites were made to be calibrated, and this set in particular can be challenging for a few reasons, so unless you're quite experienced in calibration I would definitely leave it to a pro.

Good luck.

John
post #12734 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by drexelspivey View Post

I just received my 70 (floor model) and have some questions.

What do you recommend for cleaning screen smudges? Damp microfiber cloth?

I get small black bars (approx 1/8 inch) on some 1:85 aspect Blu-ray discs. Is this normal? Is there a fix?

Time Warner Cable does not look all that impressive. Anyone else agree? How does picture look with DTV?
I plan to have it professionally calibrated so I anticipate the picture will improve even with a TWC source.

Distilled water and microfiber cloth is the best way to clean the screen. As for your cable question, I recently got rid of comcast cable in favor of DirecTV. DirecTV looks a lot better imo, but it really depends on your specific cable company, and how much they compress their service.
post #12735 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by drexelspivey View Post

What do you recommend for cleaning screen smudges? Damp microfiber cloth?
Yes but no more than slightly damp.
Quote:
I get small black bars (approx 1/8 inch) on some 1:85 aspect Blu-ray discs. Is this normal? Is there a fix?
Your display is 16 by 9. If you divide 16 by 9 you get 1.78. So your screen has an aspect ratio (width to height) of 1.78:1. Movies and HDTV sources come in that same aspect ratio. In the case of movies, played from shiny disks, there are several other aspect ratios that are used. Among them are the old CRT TV and old movie aspect ratio of 1.33:1(4 by 3). That produces black bars on each side of your screen with a 4 by 3 image in the center.

A 1.85:1 aspect ratio on shiny disk movies will cause very slim black bars at the top and bottom of your screen. Since the movie is slightly wider than your screen the black bars are very thin. The images in the center is the correct aspect ratio for that movie.

If you play a shiny disk movie that has an aspect ratio of 2.35:1 then the black bars will be much wider at the top and bottom of your screen.

If you want to see the best image possible, then the black bars allow you to see movies with the image that the director intended. Any adjustment (stretch or zoom) that you make to get rid of aspect ratio related black bars will either cause distortion, a softer images, or both.

As long as you watch a mix of sources the black bars will not damage your plasma display. I've been referring to shiny disk movies because the movies you see on TV are frequently cropped or padded to fill your screen.
Edited by htwaits - 2/27/13 at 7:34pm
post #12736 of 13287
hi drexelspivey,

i too got a floor model. i used a puffer brush that i use on camera lenses first to make sure there weren't any particles on the screen. its a floor model, who knows what dust and dirt could get kicked up by people in the store.

then since there was a fresh one in the 3d glasses box, i used the white micro fiber it came with and only the moisture in my breath. the slight heat along with the fog of your breath is enough to break down most oily finger prints. i do this for my laptop screens, and jump from 13 to 70 inches is a beast to clean in this method. its ok if people laugh and think i am nuts. i got enough hell from my buddies that helped my carry it into the house when they saw me doing this. to me, this set is like a precious jewel, and i treat it as such like i do my other gadgets and toys.

all smudges came out except for one small one which i suspect is a scuff on the anti reflective coating. there was no texture to the mark when i lightly run a finger nail across it, so i dont think it is deep enought to be a scratch. i can't see it from normal viewing, so i left it alone.

after the screen, i used the same cloth on the bezel and stand. but do the bottom plastic strip that has the IR sensors/emitters etc. with a fresh cloth and use the puffer brush first. i learned the hard way and should have known better, but it is soft plastic that catches swirl marks very easily.

i used medium tact packaging tape to remove the adhesive from their price tag holders and store sales stickers that was stuck to it.

comcast cable in my area is horrible, they still have the old blue and yellow menu interface and it looks like the picture is made of stacked legos. blue-ray is where the thing shines. i plan on getting mine calibrated also, but i wouldn't expect an improvement to the cable feed. if anything calibration i think will only improve the trueness of the colors of the lego blocks but not remove the LBE (lego brick effect) entirely.

good luck, enjoy the set.

-patrick
post #12737 of 13287
For some people here who would like to know. ARC will only send 2.0 pcm or DD/DTS out from the TV VIA the ARC (Audio Return Channel). This means that if you have a AV Reciever or Sound Bar that has the capabilities to Decode the HD Codecs from Blu-Ray It will have to be supplied directly from the Component that is sending the signal.
So in this case if ARC were hooked up to a Display that has ARC it would only be used for interaction Control from a single Remote.
If the ARC would of have Passed all info receiving it sure would of cut down on a lot of cabling.
post #12738 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post


The best "cleaner" is distilled water on a microfiber cloth. Never use chemicals.
Yep +1
Reply
Reply
post #12739 of 13287
Brand and source recommendations for getting another 1-2 pairs of 3D glasses?
post #12740 of 13287
I got 2 addtional sets from Best Buy. The Elite glasses for $59.99 each.
post #12741 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by 760rapta View Post

Brand and source recommendations for getting another 1-2 pairs of 3D glasses?

These are smaller, but less expensive. They are ok if you don't wear glasses. I'd suggest staying with the Sharp specs.
AN-3DG30
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sharp---Rechargeable-Active-Shutter-3D-Glasses/6667503.p?id=1218770736844&skuId=6667503



AN3DG20EL
I received 2 pair of these from Sharp and they work perfectly with my lc70le847u...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Elite+-+3D+Glasses/3294716.p?id=1218394223859&skuId=3294716


AN3DG20B
These are exactly like the Elite glasses - the only difference is that there is a Sharp logo on them. I think these are approaching end of life status. I picked up 2 pair from a Sears that was closing here in Pittsburgh for $41 each. Get 'em while you can...
http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-AN3DG20B-3D-Glasses-Black-Single/dp/B005JABSB6
post #12742 of 13287
Here's the link to the actual Elite glasses at Best Buy. You will need to check stores near you as they do not ship from Best Buy.com.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Elite+-+3D+Glasses/3294716.p?id=1218394223859&skuId=3294716&st=elite 3d glasses&cp=1&lp=1
post #12743 of 13287
Anybody at any Best Buy can order those for you. If you have a Mag store in your area, they might be available on the shelf.
post #12744 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

In general I would agree with ignoring 100% especially if there is no color clipping. Both of you might want to look into getting a Lumagen Radiance video processor and auto cal software. The 125 point 3D LUT fixed my cyan problems. Actual color points measured are 123. Measured de's from 25% thru 100% at 5% intervals all have de's less than 1.5 with exception of yellow at 35 & 40% and again at 60 & 65%. Yellow at those points is around 1.7 to 2.2 as I remember. Picture looks great.

My Lumagen Radiance Mini3D is now on order. Yahooooo! biggrin.gif
post #12745 of 13287
posted the below earlier but never got any response - does anyone have any idea?? makes me nervous when i am at an extreme range of an adjustable range.

original question:

i am trying to use my Disney Wow disc to do some rudimentary settings until i get a full calibration done.

when doing the advanced contrast test, on all the other sets the final contrast setting would be somewhere around 25-30 on the 40pt scale. on this particular set, i have to set the contrast to 39 out of 40 before the Ideal Star disappears - should this raise any alarm bells that i have almost exhausted the useable adjustment range of 40 for the contrast?? again, only reason it seems weird is none of the other other sets had to go that high before the Ideal Star disappeared.

this is in THX mode, Low temp setting if that matters.

thanks![/quote]
post #12746 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by alebrady View Post

posted the below earlier but never got any response - does anyone have any idea?? makes me nervous when i am at an extreme range of an adjustable range.

original question:

i am trying to use my Disney Wow disc to do some rudimentary settings until i get a full calibration done.

when doing the advanced contrast test, on all the other sets the final contrast setting would be somewhere around 25-30 on the 40pt scale. on this particular set, i have to set the contrast to 39 out of 40 before the Ideal Star disappears - should this raise any alarm bells that i have almost exhausted the useable adjustment range of 40 for the contrast?? again, only reason it seems weird is none of the other other sets had to go that high before the Ideal Star disappeared.

this is in THX mode, Low temp setting if that matters.

thanks!
[/quote]

I'm no expert, I think that is normal for the Sharp Elite. The Elite has tons of "headroom". Real hard to clip whites on this TV. Set contrast to 32 and forget about it until you have it calibrated. FYI- I have the wow disc too. I cannot clip whites on that star pattern. Your TV is fine. Peace
post #12747 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by hutchinshouse View Post


I'm no expert, I think that is normal for the Sharp Elite. The Elite has tons of "headroom". Real hard to clip whites on this TV. Set contrast to 32 and forget about it until you have it calibrated. FYI- I have the wow disc too. I cannot clip whites on that star pattern. Your TV is fine. Peace[/quote]

cool, thanks a lot - so having a set where i can go that high on the contrast (or that has this headroom) doesnt mean my blacks are inherently less dark or anything like that?
post #12748 of 13287
Quote:
Originally Posted by alebrady View Post

cool, thanks a lot - so having a set where i can go that high on the contrast (or that has this headroom) doesnt mean my blacks are inherently less dark or anything like that?

Nope, the Elite has the darkest blacks and best contrast ratio based upon the 2011 and 2012 HDTV flagship shootout.

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-20118503-221/sharp-elite-wins-value-electronics-hdtv-shootout/


http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57439424-221/panasonic-vt50-wins-value-electronics-2012-tv-picture-quality-shootout/

The Elite along with the Lumagen video processor will be a very tough cookie to beat.
Edited by hutchinshouse - 3/3/13 at 12:04pm
post #12749 of 13287
thanks hutch - yes, i know the elite, in general, has excellent blacks.

just wondering if my particular set which can go much higher on the contrast scale means its inherently brighter or has less darks than any other elite.
post #12750 of 13287
I posted on the Elite pricing thread but no answer so far. My local BB offered me a 60" floor model Elite for $3700 with full factory warranty and the new 15 day return policy. Has anyone bought a 60" for less or is anyone aware of floor model close out pricing at other BBs?

I need LCD deep black to showcase look up table calibration. The CES hype re: the 2013 Samsung F8000 LCD looks good but experience dictates the display will not live up to expectations.
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