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Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 451

post #13501 of 14509
Certainly possible, although it could be a surge protector/UPS combo unit. No?

Taiwan, what model surge protector do you have?
post #13502 of 14509
FYI, the Elite still draws electricity (~0.2w) in standby mode in order to keep serial and network ports open for RS-232 or IP control. This may be the reason why your surge protector continues to provide power to the other outlets.
post #13503 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by gweempose View Post

This sounds like the infamous IR receiver board problem that many owners have experienced. Call Sharp, and they should send someone out to fix it for you for free of charge.
That's a phenomenal price. Nice score!
I'm not sure if waiting would help. $3500 did not go very well with my wife. But I was afraid someone might grab it before me. Couple months ago I tried a few Best Buys and none of them would even go below $5000. According to slick deal the lowest people saw was $4500. But the condition varies. I saw a "Good" one from one store and it had a lot of smudges on the screen and was missing glasses. The one I bought was rated "Excellent" and had no scratches. The store wanted to give me a "premium" HDMI cable for free. I tried asking them for a $300 TV stand but they wouldn't budge. I told them it would be nice if they can throw in 2 more pair of glasses. For some reason they found 2 more pairs in the drawer. So I ended up with 4 pair of 3D glasses, two without box and used, two brand new in box. I took the receipt to another store and one of the store was willing to price match. I got a feeling $3500 isn't the lowest they can go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3W813 View Post

FYI, the Elite still draws electricity (~0.2w) in standby mode in order to keep serial and network ports open for RS-232 or IP control. This may be the reason why your surge protector continues to provide power to the other outlets.
That may explain why it worked with Sony XBR and not the Elite. I did get it to work with Belkin Conserve. It was 3 different Rocketfish I tried that didn't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post

Taiwan, you have a few things going on simultaneously. As was previously stated, your Elite (like many) has a failing IR sensor. The replacement is cheap and easy and instructions can be found in this thread.

Your surge protection isn't bad and neither is the TV, but they are incompatible. You need a surge protector that outputs pure sine wave. Sounds like your Belkin is stepped.

Your picture mode issue is still baffling.

John
I'm going to try using the TV for a while with the batteries taken out of the remote and see if the AV Mode gets switched again. I really hope it won't happen again because if it does that means something is wrong with the TV. This is what happens when you buy a floor model. If something doesn't work right you always suspect it had to do with being used for too long.

I have to make a correction. I tried Rocketfish RF-HTS105, RF-PCS12ES13 and RF-PCS12ES (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketfish%26%23153%3B+-+12-Outlet+Home/Office+Power+Manager+with+Surge+Protection/9256841.p?id=1218070096176&skuId=9256841&strId=536&strClr=true), none of them work and they worked very well for Sony XBR TV I replaced. I made it work with Belkin Conserve Smart AV Auto-off. But I'd prefer it worked with Rocketfish because the Belkin is too tightly spaced and I have too many devices that need to be controlled. What I ended up doing was to plug surge protectors on top of Belkin. Hopefully that's not a fire hazard.
Edited by taiwan - 7/3/13 at 11:00am
post #13504 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by taiwan View Post

But I'd prefer it worked with Rocketfish because the Belkin is too tightly spaced and I have too many devices that need to be controlled. What I ended up doing was to plug surge protectors on top of Belkin. Hopefully that's not a fire hazard.

I find these type of extension cords useful if power strips have tightly spaced outlets:

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PWR-PSLIB-2-Xtender-Splitter/dp/B000234UFG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3G4WKLRPRVOCA&coliid=I2A0TQMHI40MF7
Edited by mikey94025 - 7/2/13 at 9:17pm
post #13505 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post

From the horse's mouth..
Sharp executives were hesitant to say if it would produce the same award-winning black level, contrast and color performance as the company’s Elite branded FullHD LCD TVs, which are on a temporary hiatus.

This makes me wonder if this is not an edge lit display as opposed to full-array. That's the trend with 4K.

I also think it's amusing that they reference 'color' in the same breath as 'award-winning'. All our Elites got was grief for color accuracy. rolleyes.gif
post #13506 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

This makes me wonder if this is not an edge lit display as opposed to full-array. That's the trend with 4K.

I also think it's amusing that they reference 'color' in the same breath as 'award-winning'. All our Elites got was grief for color accuracy. rolleyes.gif

I'm wondering if they will be using passive instead of active 3d on the 4k panel. My best guess is that it's active.
post #13507 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

This makes me wonder if this is not an edge lit display as opposed to full-array. That's the trend with 4K.

I also think it's amusing that they reference 'color' in the same breath as 'award-winning'. All our Elites got was grief for color accuracy. rolleyes.gif

Grief for color accuracy but never for resolution. Oh, to have a 1080p 80" Elite without the yellow pixel. What could have been...
Edited by Sick Mother - 7/3/13 at 1:21pm
post #13508 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by taiwan View Post

Hi:
I was wondering if someone could help me. I bought the PRO-70X5 recently. I installed the latest firmware. I use "Movie THX" mode almost all the time. But sometimes picture mode would switch to another at random. It's getting really annoying. I'm trying to read manual to see if there is anything I'm missing. Does anyone have this problem or know what I'm doing incorrectly? Any help would be really appreciated.

I had this same issue!!!! found out there is an option in the System Options>Input Terminal Setting>HDMI Setup>AutoView> turn this to disabled, and all will be right in the world again.
post #13509 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoChanceIV View Post

Thanks Everyone!

I have the Aquos with the Netflix button, so I'll call it good unless a good deal shows up on Ebay. Appreciate the help..

Good for you, I got hold of an Aquos remote but it does not work with my Elite. The BestBuy I bought my TV from also had the remote missing. Do I have any disadvantages if I go with a Harmony remote? Also which harmony remote works best for Elite?

thanks
post #13510 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx74ray View Post

Good for you, I got hold of an Aquos remote but it does not work with my Elite. The BestBuy I bought my TV from also had the remote missing. Do I have any disadvantages if I go with a Harmony remote? Also which harmony remote works best for Elite?

thanks

I don't much care for the new Harmony remotes as there are no hard number buttons and the transport button (play, pause, etc.) are located at the top of the remote. For me those are the most used buttons. If you can find one get a Harmony One or a Harmony 900 (RF compatible). I have the 900 and I am using the RF/IR blaster and it works great. No more having to make sue I am pointing it towards the components.
post #13511 of 14509
also looking into a new TV these are my choices ?

Samsung UN75ES9000
Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD

Any thoughts...
post #13512 of 14509
On occasion I will turn on my Elite and get no picture but the little blue light will flash 3 times. What is that?
post #13513 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by motogp34 View Post

also looking into a new TV these are my choices ?

Samsung UN75ES9000
Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD

Any thoughts...

I personally think the UN75ES9000 is the most overpriced set on the market. I considered it for a bit, but then I decided it was a terrible bang for the buck.
post #13514 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

On occasion I will turn on my Elite and get no picture but the little blue light will flash 3 times. What is that?

I had this happen 1 time about 6 months ago or so, emailed Elite.
Here is the response I got from support after I emailed them.
Quote:
" Good morning,

Thanks for contacting Sharp Elite.

We apologize for the delay in responding to your inquiry.

2 & 3 blink code represent 3.3v power interruption/power failure. If the set is powering on you should be ok. I would wait to see if the problem reoccurs. It's possible you had a brown out in your area which caused the 2 & 3 blink pattern. Again, power interruptions of any kind can cause the blink code. Because the set powered back up it should be ok.

If power is lost completely, Please contact our Elite Advantage department we have Elite Advisors waiting to assist with arranging In-home repair/service. At which point the power supply board would need to be replaced.

3 & 3 blink code would mean the micro processor got hung up and then it reset itself, thus restoring power. The fix for the 3 & 3 is to unplug the set from the A/C outlet for 10 seconds and then reconnect to the power outlet. "
post #13515 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoChanceIV View Post

Can someone tell me if the standard Sharp GB005WJSA remote will work with the Elite? I just picked up a demo unit and they didn't have the Elite remote, so they gave me this one. It doesn't seem to work with the TV. Can someone verify if it should?

I'm hoping I don't have the Remote Sensor issue I've been reading about.

Thanks!

I wanted to update my own post. Since I had a Tivo on this TV, I went ahead and tried to program it. Using code 0031, I was able to program the Power Button and Volume on the Tivo remote to control my Elite 70".

The good news is my IR Sensor appears to be fine. The bad news is the other Sharp Aquos Remote Best Buy gave me did not work with my TV.

I got the TV for a steal, so I don't mind paying for the remote, but I wanted to post this for someone else who is in the same boat.
post #13516 of 14509
any one know where to get an elite now, other then e-bay ?
post #13517 of 14509
Have not seen a elite in awhile I know all my local bb are happy to be rid of them hard to sell in this economy very nice TVS
post #13518 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Video Auteur View Post

I've tried different Noise Reduction settings (including Off, of course!), but it doesn't eliminate or even reduce the pulsing problem on my set. As far as I can tell from reading this forum, not all Elites have this problem. (That's true from my experience, too. I have yet to see the problem on my 60" Elite.) Sharp is sending someone out to take a look at the set. If they manufacture Elites without the problem, they may be able to fix it. I'll let you know how it goes.

I am looking at the same situation here. I am very surprised such issue is present on elite. I look forward to see if sharp can help you resolve this.
I have noticed the pulsing is more obvious when backlight is lower (-11 or less). I run my back light relatively low since I view in darkroom. Setting backlight to 0 gives me eye strain in minutes.
post #13519 of 14509
Ok, sorry to come back here again reporting a new problem. I had the remote disabled (batteries taken out) and I did what someone suggested by turning System Options>Input Terminal Setting>HDMI Setup>AutoView> off. I didn't get another incident of AV Mode switching at random.

But while watching a 3D movie, the picture turned 2D 5 times in 2 hours. The symptoms were the screen going black without a sound, and then the picture came back. Even though I had the 3D set automatically it played 2D. So I had to put the batteries back into the remote and change it. What is going on here? It's almost turning this TV unusable.
post #13520 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post

Grief for color accuracy but never for resolution. Oh, to have a 1080p 80" Elite without the yellow pixel. What could have been...

Amen.
post #13521 of 14509
I assume sharp is not making anymore elites of any size?
post #13522 of 14509
You assumption is correct.
post #13523 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by taiwan View Post

Ok, sorry to come back here again reporting a new problem. I had the remote disabled (batteries taken out) and I did what someone suggested by turning System Options>Input Terminal Setting>HDMI Setup>AutoView> off. I didn't get another incident of AV Mode switching at random.

But while watching a 3D movie, the picture turned 2D 5 times in 2 hours. The symptoms were the screen going black without a sound, and then the picture came back. Even though I had the 3D set automatically it played 2D. So I had to put the batteries back into the remote and change it. What is going on here? It's almost turning this TV unusable.

I'm no expert here, but this sounds like an HDMI syncing issue. Do you have this going through a HDMI switch or receiver? If so, try going direct. If it's direct, try a different cable.
post #13524 of 14509
Just want to make sure I'm right are all these sets full array led

Elite 60 & 70
Sharp 80 632u and 633u and 844u
Sharp 90


And there respective 70 inch versions
post #13525 of 14509
Quote:
any one know where to get an elite now, other then e-bay ?


Have you checked Paul's TV? They still say on their website that they have in stock.

http://www.paulstv.com/LED-Televisions/Elite-PRO70X5FD.asp
post #13526 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by motogp34 View Post

also looking into a new TV these are my choices ?

Samsung UN75ES9000
Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD

Any thoughts...

A better choice would be between the newer Samsung 75" Class LED F8000 Series and the Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD. Looks like Samsung has lowered their price. The 2 should be about the same cost now.
But I don't think you can beat the Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD for PQ.
post #13527 of 14509
Count me in for IR sensor issue. Bummer an expensive set has to have this kind of issue or any kind for that matter. How long from time of first call to elite support till finally repaired have any of you guy with the same issue waited?
post #13528 of 14509
^ A question on the same issue. Has anyone contacted Sharp when the sensor is causing an increasing number of problems but hasn't failed ? My 70X5 warrantee will expire in the Fall. The number of instances with blinking blue lights and no turn on has increased recently but it will still turn on if you press the on button again. Would be nice if Sharp would go ahead and replace sensor before warrantee expires. Thanks
post #13529 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

^ A question on the same issue. Has anyone contacted Sharp when the sensor is causing an increasing number of problems but hasn't failed ? My 70X5 warrantee will expire in the Fall. The number of instances with blinking blue lights and no turn on has increased recently but it will still turn on if you press the on button again. Would be nice if Sharp would go ahead and replace sensor before warrantee expires. Thanks


I generally advocate that honesty is the best policy, in this case..........given the number of sets that have the same problem, look out for yourself. Call Sharp, tell them it has completely failed. If you claim it's completely dead, how can they argue with you. How will they know? They will send a technician with a replacement part. Mine failed in the first 30 days, the technician walked in and didn't even test it first. He immediately went to work, and one of the first things he said to me......"I've done several of these sensor repairs already". You're not really being dishonest, maybe exaggerating a little, but it sounds to me like your IR sensor is defective. Sharp released a product with a very high rate of defective IR sensors, you deserve to have it repaired. Even if the sensor is working when the technician arrives, explain that it doesn't work most of the time. The technician is a third party contractor paid by Sharp to perform the repair and that's exactly what he/she will do.

The technician that repaired my unit installed a new power supply as well, I still have no idea why. Also, the new sensor has a much stronger signal (if that's the proper term) than the original sensor ever had.

That's what I would do! cool.gif
post #13530 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkyguy View Post

I generally advocate that honesty is the best policy, in this case..........given the number of sets that have the same problem, look out for yourself. Call Sharp, tell them it has completely failed. If you claim it's completely dead, how can they argue with you. How will they know? They will send a technician with a replacement part. Mine failed in the first 30 days, the technician walked in and didn't even test it first. He immediately went to work, and one of the first things he said to me......"I've done several of these sensor repairs already". You're not really being dishonest, maybe exaggerating a little, but it sounds to me like your IR sensor is defective. Sharp released a product with a very high rate of defective IR sensors, you deserve to have it repaired. Even if the sensor is working when the technician arrives, explain that it doesn't work most of the time. The technician is a third party contractor paid by Sharp to perform the repair and that's exactly what he/she will do.

The technician that repaired my unit installed a new power supply as well, I still have no idea why. Also, the new sensor has a much stronger signal (if that's the proper term) than the original sensor ever had.

That's what I would do! cool.gif

Thanks for the reply. Your thinking is similar to mine. Regarding the power supply, did you have to reset your calibration settings after it was replaced? If so, knowing in advance is important since i would need to write down all of them. Thanks again.
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