Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 47

Originally Posted by Ken Ross

Regarding color accuracy:

I've actually found cyan and colors around cyan to be more problematic than yellow. Yellow is easy to control in the CMS section, but getting accurate cyan as well as other colors in that neighborhood are very difficult IMO in the THX mode. In fact it's one of the reasons I prefer the non-THX movie mode for color accuracy. In that mode it seems easier to get accurate colors. Of course all of these observations are on a non-ISF'd panel.

I'm not one of those that believes the THX mode is so 'spot on', I just don't see it. The colors are gorgeous, don't get me wrong, but if you really begin examining color accuracy critically, you'll see there's room for improvement. I'll be so bold as to say the 929 has better color accuracy out of the box and with a few simple touch ups than the Elite. And yes, I prefer the Elie over the Sony.

I've mentioned this before, but simply look at the color of the glass blocks behind the couches on the Today show. In actuality they're a distinct purplish hue that you'd never know while in THX mode, which renders them blue. The non-THX movie mode renders it more accurately, but still not spot-on. One look at my ISF'd Kuro shows how off the Elite is in this area of the color spectrum.

I'm very curious what the potential of the ISF mode is once unlocked. I'm hoping for better accuracy than the THX mode seems capable of.

Originally Posted by airgas1998

"I'm very curious what the potential of the ISF mode is once unlocked."

i'll let everybody know in a couple of weeks..

Originally Posted by rogo

There is no adjustment for the yellow. Yellow is normally made by red + green. In the Sharp, it's also made by shining the backlight through the yellow-filtered pixels. The settings of the R and G determine whether or not light is shined through the yellow sub-pixels (the blue might as well, in some strange way, but I'm not suer how or why that would happen; I just don't want to rule it out).

When you set the R, G and B in the panel, the TV is doing a lot of internal magic to determine how much to twist the LC material in the corresponding sub-pixels which will determine how much light gets through. It doesn't actually manipulate the pixels material. So if you make a change to R and G in a Quattron panel. the Sharp might allow more or less light to make it out through the yellow sub-pixels, but it's no trickier than that.

Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan

Or I can let you know right now...it's amazing, color accuracy is spot-on, greyscale as well...been watching a good amount of black and white Hitchcock films and such, and knowing these as I do from my calibrated Qualia 006 when it was spot on, these films are exactly as they should be. And as far as color, of course things like the colors on the Leno show, Lord Of The Rings blurays, etc. tell me it's spot on there too...as does the color scale test from the D2V's video processor. I believe from discussing with Ed Johnson that he got the colors and grey scale absolutely perfect on ISF Night and Day for me.

In short, I think both you and Ken will be quite happy all the way around once calibrated.

Cheers,
Brian

Originally Posted by tangcoma

How many depth u set ? The max is +16 , and I saw lot of Crosstalk there in a store ! Can u see it too ?

Originally Posted by SonnynNY

Sorry for the complete non sequitur, but what suggestions would you guys have for power surge protection for this tv?

Originally Posted by ERosenbrg


I didn't even know that I could adjust the 3D depth. I'll have to check the manual...

What do you mean by "crosstalk"?

Originally Posted by ERosenbrg

Funny you should ask that - we just had a power outage last night, and my APC J15 Power Conditioner wasn't able to keep the TV powered on. I can't understand why, because every other peripheral remained on, and the TV I just replaced (Sony KDS-R70XBR2) remained on when the power went off.

The unit is supposed to deliver power to all equipment as if the power is still on for at least 10-15 minutes (if not longer). In the past I never had a problem, but either the J15 is getting old and needs to be replaced, or there's something about the 70" Sharp Elite that requires more than just the J15's battery power.

The TV still works fine now that the power is back on, so at least the J15 protected it from surges and fluctuations, but I'm probably going to have to find a new or better power conditioner if my J15 can't handle the Sharp Elite's power requirements during an outage. Perhaps I need to upgrade to the APC S15, but that's a lot of money!

Originally Posted by calvin35

Thank you. I thought that was what another calibrating genius had told me but I wasn't sure.

Originally Posted by rogo

People get confused by how LCDs work -- not saying you did necessarily. Quite literally there is one color of light operating behind the panel. And there are three (or four in Sharp's case), color filters that change the color of said light before it reaches our eyes. The only way the TV can modulate color is to block more or less of the light at a given sub pixel ("give me a little more red", "give me a little less blue"). Everything that happens to get you a shade that isn't one of the colors of the filters is done through "magic" -- or a series of calculations.
De
Setting "hue" is actually fairly easy, but even saturation and value (sometimes called "brightness") is done through the same mechanism. "How much light do I allow or block?"

There's a good discussion of color here: http://www.ncsu.edu/scivis/lessons/c...r_models2.html

Just keep in mind, the only tool the LCD has is to block more or less of those primary R G and B (and yellow in the Sharp). In theory, the Sharp method would allow more flexibility. In reality, as many have noted, non-4-color sets have managed just fine and Sharp has had issue translating its control / algorithms into the best results in the past.

Originally Posted by airgas1998

"I'm very curious what the potential of the ISF mode is once unlocked."

i'll let everybody know in a couple of weeks..

Originally Posted by stumlad

I finally got to see one of these in person today at a Magonlia in Best Buy. First off, happy to note that what I was looking appeared to be very close to accurate as far as colors, so I asked the salesman what mode it was on, and he said THX (he said there were 2 thx modes, one was Movie, and there was another.. not sure which it was on).

Originally Posted by Glenee

Could some of the Owners try Hitting the Light button on their remotes. When mine Lights up the #9 is brightest of all digits and some function buttons are hard to see cause some are real Dim in comparison to others. I may have to get them to send me another remote cause when it's a dark enviorment I can't see some of the Buttons. I think for a $8000.00 retail Display that they say has a backlight Remote, it should be a good one.
Check it Out.
Thanks,
Glen

Originally Posted by Glenee

Could some of the Owners try Hitting the Light button on their remotes. When mine Lights up the #9 is brightest of all digits and some function buttons are hard to see cause some are real Dim in comparison to others. I may have to get them to send me another remote cause when it's a dark enviorment I can't see some of the Buttons. I think for a $8000.00 retail Display that they say has a backlight Remote, it should be a good one.
Check it Out.
Thanks,
Glen

Originally Posted by Ken Ross

He's wrong, there's only one THX mode.

Originally Posted by dsinger

Ken: Regarding your comments above about the glass bricks on the Today Show interview area, the ones above the blue appear to be light magenta in color with low saturation than anything else to my eye. This was in THX which I have calibrated using a Chroma 5 and Chromapure. The flesh tone results are the best I can remember seeing on any TV.

Originally Posted by Ken Ross

Here's what it should look like (and does on my Kuro when actually watching the show). You'll see it's definitely not as you described nor as depicted on my Elite.

Scroll down about 2/3s of the way until you see on the left hand side "Moneyball author bounces back...". If you look at the glass block in that picture, you'll see what it's supposed to look like. I can't get the Elite to look like that no matter what I do...closer in non-THX movie mode, but still not like that.

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/

Originally Posted by KRiS1

Anyone have luck using a Harmony One remote with the Elite?

Originally Posted by lakinsdad

Just use the KRP 500m as the TV and you will be fine for now.

Originally Posted by dsinger

It's no longer available although I did see it on my Ipad earlier. Looked terrible on Ipad. Which bricks are you talking about? The bottom and far larger area appears light to medium blue and undersaturated due to being glass. The upper area is as I describe above.