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Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 478

post #14311 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Playdrv4me View Post

Reds came out a little too pronounced on the newbie settings from Aug 2011. I can't find Radtech's Kevin Miller settings, though. Any idea where those are?

I think these are RadTech51's Kevin Miller calibrated settings
If he still lurks here, he may chime in.
RadTech51 THX Movie Settings by Kevin Miller
post #14312 of 14509
Color fidelity with those Kevin miller settings may just be the best I've seen yet, so thanks for that.

However, I still have the "hotspot"/splotchiness on people's faces issue. The attached photo is Elizabeth Shue in Karate Kid at the scene where they are at a dance or something, as shown on HDNet Movies this morning. It's more blown out in the photo than it is in reality, but it's not real far off. I find myself being able to see the reflected light from studios and camera spotlights and the shinyness on people's faces way more than normal. And consider that this is at a LOWER backlight setting than the calibrated settings because I use OPC for my bedroom when it's dark.

FWIW, this demo set has 9k hours, but that's still a pittance of the TV's rated lifespan, even if you use 60k hour Plasma half-life standards (and I think it's 100 now).

Maybe this is normal, but it sure doesn't seem right to me...

post #14313 of 14509
^^^ Definitely not normal and I can see why you would complain. Make sure you turn off any of the "enhancement" settings. Stuff that tries to make the picture brighter or more contrasty will have that kind of effect. For best image and blacks use IVC = Local Dimming. I use IVC = Advanced Low in some of my calibrations but then I set my backlight way low to get the blacks back to where I like them. I do have a very dark room.
post #14314 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherDude View Post

^^^ Definitely not normal and I can see why you would complain. Make sure you turn off any of the "enhancement" settings. Stuff that tries to make the picture brighter or more contrasty will have that kind of effect. For best image and blacks use IVC = Local Dimming. I use IVC = Advanced Low in some of my calibrations but then I set my backlight way low to get the blacks back to where I like them. I do have a very dark room.

I think I have all of that stuff turned off. Pretty much all covered in the calibration settings people post.

I guess I'll try IVC Low though Local Dimming ON looks so nice and even. Except for that skin tone issue, the Kevin Miller settings made everything else look tremendous, definitely closer to my set if not spot on than even the Cnet settings. And the skin issue has been there in every setting I've tried.

I suppose the panel could be defective, but that's sure a weird way to fail.
Edited by Playdrv4me - 12/29/13 at 3:52pm
post #14315 of 14509
IVC Adv Low might actually make it worse, since it boosts brightness & contrast. Do you get this often? Could it be the source material? I don't have the Karate Kid, but do have many BDs - any other examples I might be able to check on my setup?
post #14316 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherDude View Post

IVC Adv Low might actually make it worse, since it boosts brightness & contrast. Do you get this often? Could it be the source material? I don't have the Karate Kid, but do have many BDs - any other examples I might be able to check on my setup?

I don't know if you have cable/satellite (I have Uverse) but I think HDNet shows movies over and over for a month or so rotation like HBO does. Otherwise, I'll see if this is on anything else I can replicate.

What's strange is the display goes from being near reference quality in every other way to just dropping the ball completely on these skin tones. And most of the time people's faces are fine, but when a certain amount of light hits people with certain skin tones and such it's like the TV can't resolve the gradations and goes from dark to light in a few steps or something.

Thank you for trying to help.
post #14317 of 14509
No a problem. I have DirecTV which has very good HD, but never judge a panel except with a real reference BD transfer. These other sources use more compression when they re-encode the original transfer. It's also possible if you're using somebody else's calibration settings that the two displays may not be a good match for each other. It's always best to calibrate the specific units as there can be noticeable variances from unit to unit.

Hopefully you'll get it sorted out. Happy New Year!
post #14318 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherDude View Post

No a problem. I have DirecTV which has very good HD, but never judge a panel except with a real reference BD transfer. These other sources use more compression when they re-encode the original transfer. It's also possible if you're using somebody else's calibration settings that the two displays may not be a good match for each other. It's always best to calibrate the specific units as there can be noticeable variances from unit to unit.

Hopefully you'll get it sorted out. Happy New Year!

Thanks, you too!

I will tell you this, the effect is there even on broadcast television over the antenna feed but it just varies from content to content. It's almost like there's a trim-pot that's turned just a tad too high for some value or something that has drifted out of spec over time. And if you know anything about my recent TV saga this is going to sound crazy (I went from a ZT, to a VT, then couldn't stand the IR and was going to get an S60 just to live with it on a cheap TV and then got the hair brained idea to find a Sharp Elite on clearance), but even with as picky as I am, I'm really considering keeping it even with this "defect". I paid 1400.00 for it plus tax and I could never envision myself being as pleased with any LCD on the market you can get for that amount, plus I registered my 2 year Elite warranty so I *guess* if it bothers me enough, I could always do a warranty claim on it later down the road. Although I know exactly what will happen if the panel itself is bad, Sharp will just replace it with whatever top of the line 4K thing is at the time... I don't want that, but oh well.

As for the calibration settings thing. This has been present on everyone's settings I've tried, including just plain factory reset. So it's not a settings thing.
Edited by Playdrv4me - 12/30/13 at 1:53am
post #14319 of 14509
Source plays a really important part of the PQ. Garbage in garbage out as they say.
There was a time when I had a Pioneer Elite and a the Sharp Elite running side by side off my Anthem processor in my living room. Uverse was offering the bundle package so I tried out Uverse tv against my Directv that I currently had. Uverse sucked! Big difference in pq on HD! I stayed with Directv. I recently switched over to Dish and it's not as good as Directv with HD. I only watch HD on my 70" Elite. I'm locked into dish for a couple of years and will switch back to Directv. The PQ of Directv was the best and it does not compare to the outstanding PQ of a blu-ray. So don't judge your tv by Uverse, judge the PQ with blu-ray.
Do the tweaking by what you choose, Cnet, what others suggest here by whom ever, then look at those setting via a blu-ray. That should be your source. Over the air, cable, satellite, don't judge the pq with that source.
post #14320 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post

Do the tweaking by what you choose, Cnet, what others suggest here by whom ever, then look at those setting via a blu-ray. That should be your source. Over the air, cable, satellite, don't judge the pq with that source.

A big +1 here
Only use blu ray and give new settings some time before deciding if they work for u.
post #14321 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

I have an update to the problem I had using the new Logitech Harmony Touch universal remote with my Elite 70"
I was reading some forums on the Logitech site, and came across a post where someone has the same problem as I and another member here.

I have pasted what I read below
I have tried this and it is working in the Harmony Touch device menu to jump directly to an input w/o having to cycle through the list.
The Power On/Off toggle is also working, so this is a valid TV model to use to control the Elite.

I deleted all of my activities, deleted the Sharp Pro-70X5FD
I then added the Pioneer PDP-5020FD shown below as a new device
I then re-created all of my activities...plus more.
This solved everything !!!
It changes to the correct input immediately on the Elite. You don't see the input list at all.
Those who are having problems with the Harmony Touch, try this.


Quote from Logitech Remote Control forum
I'm having troubles controlling the inputs on my new Sharp Elite pro70x5fd TV. There doesn't appear to be a direct access "key" for selecting an input on this TV. You have to bring up a Input menu and arrow up or down to highlight the desired input. When I programmed the remote to do this, it works ok as long as the desired input follows the previous input. ie HDMI1 is selected and the new desired input is HDMI2. When you need to go from HDM2 back to HDMI, the Harmony One tries to cycle through the remaining inputs to return to the top of the menu. During the cycling through inputs, when HDMI4 is selected, the process stalls and then ends leaving the remote and TV out of sync. Has anyone seen this?

Rich


Hi Rich
You can use a different model of TV to have discrete inputs for your TV.
You can try using this TV:

Manufacturer : Pioneer
Model Number : PDP-5020FD

Hope this will help.
Regards,
CJ
Silverfoxx
Logitech Support Specialist

You are my hero!
post #14322 of 14509
Unfortunately guys, there is one important factor in the Uverse thing, And that is simply that the skin tones didn't exhibit this problem, at least not as noticeably by any means, on the ZT60 that was sitting there before the Sharp. Nor on the F4500 Samsung that was there before that. Moreover, the effect is there to an extent on over the air broadcast HD as well. It's a shame, because the TV is SO damn good aside from that issue.

But I'm beginning to believe that this issue is indeed within the panel or electronics themselves so I'll probably end up having to replace it with something else. It's too bad this is the only LCD I trusted.
post #14323 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by wreed View Post

You are my hero!
Glad I could help contribute to this forum.
You must be playing with a new Logitech Harmony Touch or Ultimate universal remote. Christmas present???
You did some good digging and searching to find that old post out of the 14000+ posts in this thread. eek.gif
I have been tweaking mine since that post several weeks ago.
I added some screen buttons to all of my Activities that call sequences for the Elite to change the IVC to Advanced Low, Med, High or LD ON for day or night viewing.
Works like a champ. One click of a softkey ..changes IVC up 1 click...another changes IVC down 1 click.
All of these commands use the PDP-5020FD as the TV device
I am up to 9 devices in my Harmony Touch.

Here is another hint if you use 3D with the Elite and using the Pioneer PDP-5020FD as the TV model in the Harmony remote.
I did have to add the real Sharp 70XF5 back as a device. However, It is not used in any "Activities". Those all use the PDP-5020FD.
The reason for adding the real 70XF5 back is for the 3D stuff. By using the PDP-5020FD as your TV, it does not have any 3D control.
To be able to use the 3D buttons, I added the real model number (70XF5) as a 2nd TV under "Devices" , and access the 3D buttons using the "Device" menu only if needed.
One example is to switch the 3D content back to 2D. You need the "3D" button to do that.

Sorry to get off topic, but it is sorta Elite related.

PM if you want more help.
post #14324 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Playdrv4me View Post

Unfortunately guys, there is one important factor in the Uverse thing, And that is simply that the skin tones didn't exhibit this problem, at least not as noticeably by any means, on the ZT60 that was sitting there before the Sharp. Nor on the F4500 Samsung that was there before that. Moreover, the effect is there to an extent on over the air broadcast HD as well. It's a shame, because the TV is SO damn good aside from that issue.

But I'm beginning to believe that this issue is indeed within the panel or electronics themselves so I'll probably end up having to replace it with something else. It's too bad this is the only LCD I trusted.
I am so sorry to hear about this problem. It is a shame that you can't resolve this issue with menu settings.
One question: Do you do a complete RESET under the menu to put all settings back to defaults before trying the ones posted here?
For safety and consistency, I always did that when trying the multiple settings posted online.
I have not touched my settings for over 1 year now (N3W813 Aug 2011 settings for mine)
Another question is: What do test patterns look like..such as a full ramp from black to white?
Try a test blu ray disk like Spears & Munsil High-Definition Benchmark 2nd Edition
See how some of the test patterns look to see if you see the same flaws there.
If so...the TV must have an internal problem.
Sorry we can't be of more help.
post #14325 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Glad I could help contribute to this forum.
You must be playing with a new Logitech Harmony Touch or Ultimate universal remote. Christmas present???
You did some good digging and searching to find that old post out of the 14000+ posts in this thread. eek.gif
I have been tweaking mine since that post several weeks ago.
I added some screen buttons to all of my Activities that call sequences for the Elite to change the IVC to Advanced Low, Med, High or LD ON for day or night viewing.
Works like a champ. One click of a softkey ..changes IVC up 1 click...another changes IVC down 1 click.
All of these commands use the PDP-5020FD as the TV device
I am up to 9 devices in my Harmony Touch.

Here is another hint if you use 3D with the Elite and using the Pioneer PDP-5020FD as the TV model in the Harmony remote.
I did have to add the real Sharp 70XF5 back as a device. However, It is not used in any "Activities". Those all use the PDP-5020FD.
The reason for adding the real 70XF5 back is for the 3D stuff. By using the PDP-5020FD as your TV, it does not have any 3D control.
To be able to use the 3D buttons, I added the real model number (70XF5) as a 2nd TV under "Devices" , and access the 3D buttons using the "Device" menu only if needed.
One example is to switch the 3D content back to 2D. You need the "3D" button to do that.

Sorry to get off topic, but it is sorta Elite related.

PM if you want more help.

Thanks for that info. I haven't even played with those settings yet, probably never will hah. I am not a huge video person but I do love my elite. I got the Harmony 650 remote when I bought the tv off the open box deal at Best Buy....they sold it to me half price. Now I may have spoke two soon as I get a weird response when I don't always get tv power on when I use the watch tv activity with that tv model. Very strange....this is why I put the 650 remote to the side because I have a hard time dealing with the WAF if she doesn't use an activity to then have to deal with bouncing between devices to get volume to work or the cable box to change channels. I guess I could get technical and go in and change the channel up on the tv device to actually change the cable box channel? I might send you a PM asking some more detailed questions but I was already turned off at my 650 not doing the watch tv activity correctly smile.gif I am already at my device limit with the 650 (5 devices). I have it switching to my media box (openelec version of xbmc) and it switches to the correct area such as movies which is great!)....

BTW your post comes up in a google search so I didn't search through that many posts! Also I have the 60 inch Elite not 70...which still drives me nuts as I had a chance to get a 70 after I had the 60 for 1000 more.
post #14326 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

I am so sorry to hear about this problem. It is a shame that you can't resolve this issue with menu settings.
One question: Do you do a complete RESET under the menu to put all settings back to defaults before trying the ones posted here?
For safety and consistency, I always did that when trying the multiple settings posted online.
I have not touched my settings for over 1 year now (N3W813 Aug 2011 settings for mine)
Another question is: What do test patterns look like..such as a full ramp from black to white?
Try a test blu ray disk like Spears & Munsil High-Definition Benchmark 2nd Edition
See how some of the test patterns look to see if you see the same flaws there.
If so...the TV must have an internal problem.
Sorry we can't be of more help.

Thanks for the help.

I am going to pick up the Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark disc because I think it is excellent to have regardless, though I don't know if this particular TV will still be here by that point. If it is, I'll give it a shot. What I'm hoping is that this problem is not something that will rear its head with heavy use, as that is ultimately the biggest difference between my set and most I'm assuming, as it has over 9000 hours on it.
post #14327 of 14509
Btw, if anyone really wants one of these, I am going to refrain from reporting it as defective (and the likelihood is that geek squad when testing it would probably override me saying anything was wrong with it anyway). So if you want to give this one a shot it will probably go back up as an open box for the store I'm taking it back to again.
post #14328 of 14509

I've been extremely happy with my 60" for quite a while now, but seems today my luck ran out. I had it unplugged as I was doing some rearranging.. next time I go to use it, it won't display a picture from any input. The menus and input label overlay still display, but I've tried three difference devices with 3 different HDMI cables, nothing will show a picture on it.

post #14329 of 14509
Try unplugging it for 5 minutes, plug it back in and do a factory reset. If that did not work, then try a different HMDI input from the one you were using.
post #14330 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post

Try unplugging it for 5 minutes, plug it back in and do a factory reset. If that did not work, then try a different HMDI input from the one you were using.

 

Thanks for the advice! I assume this will erase all my calibration settings. Is simply jotting them down sufficient or does the calibrator enable some separate mode?

post #14331 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermau View Post

Thanks for the advice! I assume this will erase all my calibration settings. Is simply jotting them down sufficient or does the calibrator enable some separate mode?

Depends on who's calibration you're referencing.
If you had a pro do them, I don't think you can get into their settings.
If it's the setting we talk about here, in the Elite's menu, then you might want to write those down before doing the factory reset. Factory reset will clear them out.
Try using one of the other hdmi inputs first, to see if you get an image. If so, then you don't need to reset. However you may need to input new settings for the new hdmi input you select.
It's all fun and games, isn't it. Insert smile here.
post #14332 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post


Depends on who's calibration you're referencing.
If you had a pro do them, I don't think you can get into their settings.
If it's the setting we talk about here, in the Elite's menu, then you might want to write those down before doing the factory reset. Factory reset will clear them out.
Try using one of the other hdmi inputs first, to see if you get an image. If so, then you don't need to reset. However you may to input new settings for the new hdmi you select.
It's all fun and games, isn't it. Insert smile here.

Geek squad came and did it. All I saw him do was tweak the settings in the Elite menus under the User set.

 

I tried 3 different inputs, nada.

 

I'll see what support has to say about it, my IR board died (literally the same day they replaced it) so they need to come out and fix that again anyway.

post #14333 of 14509
A pro's setting would be done in the AVmode, ISF day and ISF night. It would take some time to calibrate both of those. If that is what Geek Squad did, then I'd talk to support about if those settings would be erased with a factory reset or not.

If your referring to User in the AVmode, I trust they did that a courtesy and not as a professional calibration that you paid for. Oh, that would be so wrong.

There's been talk about the IR boards going bad. Some of us, (me included, just in case), have bought the IR board on Amazon, about $15. Remove the back panel, see the board, replace board, panel back on.
Do a search here on AVS on the topic, instructions and photo is available.

Sorry to hear of your situation. I'm curious, what happen and what the resolution will be. So please keep us posted.
Cheers.
post #14334 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post

A pro's setting would be done in the AVmode, ISF day and ISF night. It would take some time to calibrate both of those. If that is what Geek Squad did, then I'd talk to support about if those settings would be erased with a factory reset or not.

If your referring to User in the AVmode, I trust they did that a courtesy and not as a professional calibration that you paid for. Oh, that would be so wrong.

I don't see a ISF day/night mode in the video mode list, and yeah, he just set settings on the User video mode. It was not done as a courtesy, it was part of the service plan, they came out separately some time after the installation to calibrate it. While I'm annoyed that they didn't do a professional job, I'd be quite surprised if it could look any better than it already does, so I guess that's more important.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post

There's been talk about the IR boards going bad. Some of us, (me included, just in case), have bought the IR board on Amazon, about $15. Remove the back panel, see the board, replace board, panel back on.
Do a search here on AVS on the topic, instructions and photo is available.

Interesting, I'll look into that thanks.

post #14335 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermau View Post

I don't see a ISF day/night mode in the video mode list, and yeah, he just set settings on the User video mode. It was not done as a courtesy, it was part of the service plan, they came out separately some time after the installation to calibrate it. While I'm annoyed that they didn't do a professional job, I'd be quite surprised if it could look any better than it already does, so I guess that's more important.

Interesting, I'll look into that thanks.

What is a BB service plan? A professional calibration engages ISF and uses calibration equipment. I'd question what you paid for, especially if your annoyed for what you got. BB usually includes delivery of a big screen into the house for free. What was the fee they charged and does the invoice say for what service it was?

Unless there is a misunderstanding, a professional calibration is performed by turning on ISF day/night modes and tweaking them. Then when you go into the AVmode menu, you'll see them at the end of the list. After the pro sets them, that would be the avmode you'd use. My Elite has ISF and it's pq is quite different from anything we can get with the simple settings Elite lets us tweak. Oh, and the ISF settings are locked once the pro finishes. If I remember, been a while, the only setting the pro lets us adjust in ISF is IVC.

Not sure why he would adjust the settings in User. THX is the mode most of us reference when we post the setting we use.
post #14336 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfc_2002 View Post


What is a BB service plan? A professional calibration engages ISF and uses calibration equipment. I'd question what you paid for, especially if your annoyed for what you got. BB usually includes delivery of a big screen into the house for free. What was the fee they charged and does the invoice say for what service it was?

My order lists "MHT GOLD SERVICE" and "MHT TV CALIBRATION". Can't seem to find my receipt that lists individual pricing though. I'm only annoyed in that it seems I didn't get what I payed for, the actual picture looks perfect to me, I'd be surprised if ISF was really that much better. I guess I could still complain and get them to come back out, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.

 

Is there a inherent difference with THX mode? I assumed it was just a preset, the configured user mode looks pretty close to what THX shows.

 

On the original problem, ELITE support emailed me back and asked me to call them. I did and got generic Sharp support. She started taking me through some INT process with some crazy 29 page blue menu/info page. Whatever process she was trying to go through couldn't be completed because the remote doesn't work. I was able to page/change with the channel and volume buttons like I normally do in the menus, but apparently in this menu "input" doesn't work as an enter button. However, when I (at their suggestion) unplugged it again and plugged it back in I was back to working status with all my original settings. I'd already tried unplugging it and plugging it back in, so I guess entering into this mode was enough to flip something back over.

 

I'm a bit perturbed with the fact that the remote not working was a prominent issue in even resolving my current issue, AND my mention of it failing after being repaired once already that she didn't try to schedule a repair for that. I'm going to look into what it's like just doing it myself before I call them again about it, will probably be much less of a hassle.

post #14337 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermau View Post

My order lists "MHT GOLD SERVICE" and "MHT TV CALIBRATION". Can't seem to find my receipt that lists individual pricing though. I'm only annoyed in that it seems I didn't get what I payed for, the actual picture looks perfect to me, I'd be surprised if ISF was really that much better. I guess I could still complain and get them to come back out, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.

"the actual picture looks perfect to me, I'd be surprised if ISF was really that much better."

Well, maybe someone else will chime in here about how ISF calibration in day and night mode is superior to what a BB did in user mode. Mine is ISF calibrated and it's pq is very much different from the choices in the set. THX is the best, if one does not want to hire a pro to adjust the set.
Edited by rfc_2002 - 1/2/14 at 7:47pm
post #14338 of 14509
Ermau, to answer your question, yes, THX is different from other modes. About 10 months ago I had my set professionally calibrated by Gregg Loewen at Lion AV. Here is his info:http://lionav.com/new/?page_id=155

Gregg was on tour and spent about three hours at my house, bringing everything you could imagine, including a $24,000 meter for color correction. (The only one in use on the east coast). Crazy stuff.

Anyway, Gregg explained how THX is different than other user modes because of the algorithms (is that the correct descriptor?) it has which corrects for color at different luminances. I'm going off of memory about stuff I don't fully understand from 10 months ago, so bear with me if my terminology isn't spot on. Basically, all ISF modes are are renamed user modes. He told me he would calibrate on whatever mode I wanted, but when the pro says he recommends CALIBRATING IN THX, I go with it. As you may be aware, calibration is different on the Elite than other sets because of the yellow pixel. Apparently, THX compensates automatically for that. Please, if anyone has specific questions, do not bother asking me. I just am not well-versed enough to know/explain it. I just followed the pro's lead.

The set was calibrated to 35ft lamberts, which I really like. Gregg told me I could bump up the gamma +1 for daytime viewing (true reference viewing in a sunlit room is not true reference viewing) but I have never done it. There simply has been no need to.

After watching the set for 10 months, I can tell you the picture is INSANE. STELLAR. RIDICULOUS. STUPENDOUS. It is hands down the best picture I have ever seen, particularly with high quality blu-rays like Hugo or IMAX footage from The Dark Knight/TDKR. It is so good I am highly considering picking up a 60" in my area and having him calibrate it as well.

Did Best Buy give you this level of calibration. Most certainly not. And in all fairness to Best Buy, expecting something like this is unreasonable. Gregg has been a pro calibrator for over 10 years, is an ISF instructor and the only THX instructor in the US.

The real question is, regardless of what mode you want the set calibrated in, is spending approximately $450 something you want to do when you cannot imagine the picture getting any better?

I hope this long-winded post answers your question.

Good luck.
Edited by Sick Mother - 1/2/14 at 9:37pm
post #14339 of 14509
Hi folks,
So I was able to get my tv 70" serviced and somehow it has a cracked screen. I don't know how this happened. I'm not sure if it sharp will do anything with the warranty.
Does anybody know where I can get a unit that has a working screen but otherwise non functional?
Or is anybody getting rid of their unit at a reasonable price?
What is a comparable model these days?
post #14340 of 14509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick Mother View Post

Ermau, to answer your question, yes, THX is different from other modes. About 10 months ago I had my set professionally calibrated by Gregg Loewen at Lion AV. Here is his info:http://lionav.com/new/?page_id=155

Gregg was on tour and spent about three hours at my house, bringing everything you could imagine, including a $24,000 meter for color correction. (The only one in use on the east coast). Crazy stuff.

Anyway, Gregg explained how THX is different than other user modes because of the algorithms (is that the correct descriptor?) it has which corrects for color at different luminances. I'm going off of memory about stuff I don't fully understand from 10 months ago, so bear with me if my terminology isn't spot on. Basically, all ISF modes are are renamed user modes. He told me he would calibrate on whatever mode I wanted, but when the pro says he recommends CALIBRATING IN THX, I go with it. As you may be aware, calibration is different on the Elite than other sets because of the yellow pixel. Apparently, THX compensates automatically for that. Please, if anyone has specific questions, do not bother asking me. I just am not well-versed enough to know/explain it. I just followed the pro's lead.

The set was calibrated to 35ft lamberts, which I really like. Gregg told me I could bump up the gamma +1 for daytime viewing (true reference viewing in a sunlit room is not true reference viewing) but I have never done it. There simply has been no need to.

After watching the set for 10 months, I can tell you the picture is INSANE. STELLAR. RIDICULOUS. STUPENDOUS. It is hands down the best picture I have ever seen, particularly with high quality blu-rays like Hugo or IMAX footage from The Dark Knight/TDKR. It is so good I am highly considering picking up a 60" in my area and having him calibrate it as well.

Did Best Buy give you this level of calibration. Most certainly not. And in all fairness to Best Buy, expecting something like this is unreasonable. Gregg has been a pro calibrator for over 10 years, is an ISF instructor and the only THX instructor in the US.

The real question is, regardless of what mode you want the set calibrated in, is spending approximately $450 something you want to do when you cannot imagine the picture getting any better?

I hope this long-winded post answers your question.

Good luck.

For the sake of full disclosure here, Kevin Miller (well-respected, "celebrity" ISF calibrator) apparently has been calibrating the ISF modes on the Elite with great success for a long time now. Some previous posters on the thread have done DIY calibrations (uses CalMan software), I believe, also on the ISF modes. Personally, I've had 2 ISF calibrators refuse to calibrate the ISF modes on my Elite TV, instead recommending the THX mode. In one case, the calibrator erroneously referred to the THX mode "turning off" the yellow sub-pixel. This myth has been fully debunked, so I got scared off from any calibrator who declined to do the ISF modes. To this point, I've kind of given up on getting a calibration done....

I think both the ISF calibrator community and especially Sharp dropped the ball on this issue. Someone should be able to clearly and definitively explain the issue(s). Also - if the ISF modes are somehow substandard for calibration, why have them in the first place and use them as a marketing feature on the TV?

Cheers,
JD
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