Official Sharp Elite PRO-70X5 and 60X5 Owners Thread - Page 107

roger that- ditto for mine, same settings plus I have precision color on and NR set to low. No pulsing even with gray ramp patterns, IVC on or off. I think I have IVC turned off or set to low. It is a nice feature but you do lose shadow detail.

For those experiencing this, I might again defer to checking AC line power by throwing on an accurate real time meter with the display on and rest of audio system on, and test it at the typical times of day you do most of your viewing. It may of course be nothing but it does bear looking in to. Your meter should be able to display AC voltages in the format of 120.00 and not 120 - you want to see if there are any lower end fluctuations.

I just had the chance to view the 80" Sharp and the 70" Elite in the same room. Tough comparison because the 80" was getting the same feed as all the other sets, and the Elite was getting a dedicated blu-ray feed. That said, the picture on the Elite was fantastic. Viewed straight on, it will knock your socks off! I had previously seen the 70" Elite in another store, side by side with the 65" Panny plasma, with the same feed. Straight on, the Elite was more pleasing to my eye, but as I moved off to the side, the advantage clearly shifted to the plasma- an issue with all LCD's, and application dependant.

The 80" certainly does not have the same picture quality of the Elite- however, it is significantly bigger, and size kills IMO. For movies, I think this is a big (no pun intended) advantage. Overall, I thought the picture on the 80" was pretty good, and once in your home, it will not be side to side with another set for comparison. I may post more detailed observations about the 80" in it's thread, and will view it again at a different store first. An 80" Elite would be nice, but who knows when and if it will ever come. I expect it to price at fully twice the cost of the Sharp 80".

I personally would like to be larger than that even. I might pick up the 80" as a temporary solution while I wait for a larger set, or just go projection. I would jump on a 100" Elite (are you listening Sharp?), but I'm not holding my breath. (yes I can imagine the cost)


We might see some movement on this in 2012 with a consumer model at a more competitive price. Check this out:

Large Pannys in 2012

1st ...I don't have a Elite Yet !
But I have had issues with PQ on my Sharp's & I found it was a wall voltage problem (slightly Low @ times ) , & PQ was greatly increased by adding a unit that provided a stable (the unit boosted low current) Voltage . It one thing to check before returning this set . as stated the weakest item in the chain is going to cause problems , thou slight they may be , it's best to check everything . I M H O

Cool- thanks for the info. You know it has been a really sucky year for display makers with getting larger sets out. Toshiba, Samsung, LG, Panasonic all failed at meeting thier supposed 2011 release dates. I'm sure a lot of it had to do with Japan's disaster, as (IIRC) some of the larger panel components are made there.

Given this, I have to commend Elite / Sharp for actually getting it done!

Hopefully things will be back on track in 2012 and we'll see some good across the board advancements in display tech and screen sizes, and more cost effective manufacturing processes for the larger displays.

100" Elite?? Sign me up!!

Yup, exactly. Most folks don't realize this until they run into these types of odd issues. And most wall plugs for your TV / stereo are shared with other power hungry devices and lights. Plus the wiring may only be 14g in the wall, and not delivering enough demand current.

General info:
If possible, move as many things as possible off of the circuit run feeding your TV and audio gear. Especially a fridge or other motor-driven devices.

If you have separate amplifiers, the inwall circuit wiring should be at least 12ga, and ideally, you should plug your display, BD and processor into a separate outlet not on the same circuit as the amps.

If that is not possible, you can make up for it by buying one or two "power correcting" AVRs. Run one for the display / processor / BD player, and the other one for amplifiers. If you can only afford one, then just leave the amps plugged straight into the wall or your regular power filter strip. (most good amps have large torroidal transformers inside them anyway).

The Furman 1800-PF black wedge units are the lowest cost high quality, audiophile-grade power-correcting AVRs I have found, and will actually work fine with large amplifiers (you can find refurb units online for $200-$300). As a comparison, if you bought a Running Springs AVR of the same spec, it would cost you over $2k.

No I do not but I was just curious. I always look at TV's completely independant of what I read as to not be swayed by what others say as that can have a very detrimental affect to what you want to see. I noticed both issues on my own and am glad to hear its more likely just this set I saw as I would imagine many many more would see it at home if this were the case. I might give Robert a call at VE as I know he gave up a pro141 in favor of the Elite. I'd be curious to see what he thought.

Yep, perfectly understandable- It is indeed a costly purchase so extra amounts of DD is certainly advisable. A lot of very good data in this particular thread, but nothing can make the final decision better than your own eyes and research.

Good luck on your hunt!

How is having Dish even remotely similar to using AOL for internet access? I fail to understand this "analogy". What's wrong with Dish?

Just got my Elite 70" LCD TV yesterday and set it up tonight using a temporary stand until I get it mounted this week on the wall. So far all I can say is WoW! It's so big! haha.

Haven't done any calibration or tweeks yet, just hooked up HDMI from my new Pioneer Elite SC-57 receiver, ran Top Gun from Pioneer Elite DVD and it worked. Very Impressive so far. I'll comment more when I get things tuned up. Absolutely impressed with the new Pioneer Elite SC-57 AVR. Connected to Definitive Technology Towers- Front (2) and surround speakers. Setting up 9.1 surround this week as well. If you are looking for a great receiver I highly recommend this one. I've owned Pioneer Elite receivers for over 30 years. This is by far the most impressive one so far and really brings these big speakers to life.

I'm getting kind of tired of these suggestions.

I and others have said before that it only happens in certain circumstances (backgrounds of a mostly solid color), and it's repeatable time after time after time. You can literally rewind the Blu-ray and have it occur in the same section of the same scene every time with certain settings.

If the problem were related to electricity fluctuating when it reaches the TV, the problem would be less predictable, and happen in other circumstances.

Hey Guys,

I just received my new Elite Pro-60XFD yesterday through MHT and I had some questions.

1. Should I wait to have it calibrated until after the cyan fix is out? MHT is offering ISF calibration.

2. Regarding the pulsing/dimming issue is there a way to test for it? Like with a disc?

3. If I do have it what should I do in regards to the set, will there be a fix or do I exchange it?

According to Elite when I registered it they said it just came out of the factory around the 25th (Oct) if that helps.

4. Any other issues I should look out for that I'm not remembering right now?

Also, if anyone has any settings they'd like to share it'd would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in-advance for the help and info.

well you certainly hit three good forums :-)

congrats. mine should be arriving later this week!!

I've been coming to all 3 for a while just never got around to joining until I got my new Elite.

Congrats to you as well.

Agreed. IMO this has absolutely nothing to do with the integrity of the power supply. When you know the source that manifests the pulsing, you can reproduce it at any time of day regardless of the current state of your power supply. For me it never happens in THX mode, but in non-THX movie mode it will happen 100% of the time if I constantly re-cue the offending source.

I think it's best that we move away from discussions of power supply if we're ever going to diagnose this properly. I still like the theory of a small, perhaps almost imperceptible change in input brightness causing a larger, easily visible change in the local dimming.

See the other forums for your answers. I cut & pasted over there.

amen...

If your IVC is "off" then you have turned off local dimming. Turning off local dimming universally solves the issue for everyone. Also, this is absolutely NOT a power issue. As others have stated, this issue is repeatable during specific scenes on the same TV and A/V setup. If it were a power issue, this would not be repeatable on specific scenes and turning off LD/IVT would not have an effect.

There is absolutely no reason why anyone should have to buy a "power conditioner" for most of today's modern electronic components. They can handle basic fluctuations, and most homes built in the last 5-10 years don't need this silly nonsense. Please!

Keep dreaming

Guys- Don't take my thoughts on power-relation as "the cause". I agree it is a remote idea, but, since it's still an unknown it is a point worth considering. I'd still be curious in knowing what your line voltage constants are, e.g. 119v or lower. It is not outside the realm of possibility that a consistently low line voltage (or constant over-voltage) could cause a consistent odd problem. If you don't check, you'll never know. If line voltages are ok, then it could very well be a flaw in the internal display power supply. I've said all I care to on the subject of power at this point, with no intention other than to try and help, so I'll leave it at that.

Have any of you heard back from Elite on this problem yet? I have a bit of an inroad and can provide a specific contact email address if needed, just PM me.

If your home power was regulated and protected by your utility company, 100% at all times, then sure there would be no need for purchasing a power protection unit. That would be nice!

Your local utility company does not protect you against:
1. brownouts / low voltages
2. spikes, surges and over-voltage conditions

Your internal house wiring and circuits do not protect against:
1. over-use of a circuit (low voltage, fluctuating voltage)
2. line noise introduced by motor-driven appliances, LED lighting, powerline home automation systems, etc.

Anything that you've invested a lot of money in that plugs in to your AC line should at very least have a decent surge protection unit. It's cheap insurance in it's most basic form. It only takes one time for your gear to get fried from a surge / spike.

You only need an AVR type of protection unit if you are also concerned about possible over-voltage conditions, which are rare but do happen. This would be your next level of 'insurance', and is typically what I recommend for any AV system. As an example, the line voltage in my neighborhood surged to well over 130v for an entire day, and at times up to almost 140v. If I did not have my gear behind a $300 AVR that does over voltage protection (e.g. shuts down if the line voltage exceeds 122v), I would be looking at $50k worth of gear replacement, including my prized new Elite. AV equipment warranties do not cover inadequate AC protection. A basic surge strip would not have provided any protection here.

The more expensive "audiophile" or "commercial" AVRs will also help provide boost if your line voltages are low, and will provide substantial filtering if you have a lot of noise on the line that is being picked up / re-introduced by your equipment. These units can get real expensive real fast depending on their designed capacity, might be overkill for most AV systems, and the only way to determine if you need to spend the extra money here is by tracking a specific problem related to noise or low voltages.

In my particular home, I have 100% LED lighting (noisy) and everything is controlled by a powerline automation system (more noisy). Even with dedicated circuits, I need the extra level of noise filtering as it was being picked up by one of my amplifiers.

I do have some experience in this area and background in electrical, and I've seen 1st hand what can happen to AV / computer gear that does not at least have a basic level of protection. There is no special new technology on homes built in the last 5-10 years that automatically stabilizes / protects your house line voltages and your plugged in equipment. If anything, power protection these days is even more important considering the increasing complexity and sensitivity of modern computers / AV gear. Internal power supplies are now designed more for compactness / energy efficiency vs robustness.

In my humble opinion, if you have a good investment in AV gear you should at least have a surge protection unit that also does over voltage protection. I've made a suggestion in previous posts on a very cost effective unit that does all of the above, and at a fraction of the price typically associated with audiophile grade units.

There are endless debates on this subject in this forum alone...those lead nowhere also. If you want to get a decent surge protector or UPS fine, no need for anything else. Common sense says don't put your appliances on the same circuit as your AV equipment...and there may not be any "new" technology that protects your entire house, but if you feel the need their plenty of whole home protection options that you can install at your AC panel that will protect your entire house. Now back on topic.

True, 100% agree on all points. I didn't even want to mention the AC-panel solutions. Best way to go but most complex / expensive. My main point is that having nothing is not a good option, and the concept of investing in some AC protection is not nonsense. A UPS will protect against over voltage. A surge strip will not. Typical UPS units cannot handle the load of a large display or amplifier, ones that can are quite expensive.

Last I'm saying on the matter... back OT

Finally got my set on Friday - there's a lot to comment on now that I have had some time to play with the display for an extended period of time, but I won't do it all at once .

First off, it doesn't surprise me in the least now that people are seeing this set demoed poorly. I mean, it's never much of a surprise, but there are so many settings in addition to just the video preset that are hugely influential to picture quality. Obviously, there's the local dimming and all that, but there are also all the power saving features and that awful OPC. All it would take is one stupid customer to change one menu setting and the demo could be completely ruined.

Now, that said, the set is everything that everyone said it has been. It is absolutely gorgeous. The brightness, the contrast, and the black level are so far and above the SXRD that it just replaced, that it simply astounds me! The color is also amazing with great saturation. I've been playing off of Ken's settings and tweaking a bit. I can't say that I've really noticed a cyan issue. As most people have said, without a direct reference it would be very difficult to spot. I really don't have an issue with undersaturation - I boosted the color up by 6 as recommended and it's not needed. I guess we'll see how the firmware fix affects all of this. I'm sure some colors at some brightness levels are off, but I have a very hard time seeing it.

I'm on firmware 2.13 and have not upgraded yet. I'll have to get to that today.

I have also seen no pulsing. I'm using mostly THX mode, but I am playing around a bit on other presets. I thought I may have seen it once, but I'm not going to go chasing after it. If it's really an issue, I'll see it.

Anyway, super happy. I've evaluated this purchase for months and months and feel like I made the right decision so far. I can definitely appreciate the areas where this set excels against the competition.

If there is a fix coming then wait for it. I don't know what or who MHT is, but there are a lot of outstanding calibrators who get good references from AVS members. Check the link (post #2) at the bottom of my post.

Two issues just noted:

1. display failed to power on, screen remained dark and blue power LED flashed 5 fast blinks and two slow blinks. Turned display off and then back on, issue went away.

2. powered up display and failed to get an HDMI picture lock. screen was black. turned display off / back on, same issue. turned display off / back on, then switched to HDMI 2, back to HDMI 1, picture came back.

I am running a special version of firmware 2.13 to help test the coming new IR code update, so it may be related to that, but it seems unlikely since the only firmware changes are additions for supporting the discrete IR commands.

Each noted issue only happened one time so far. I'm posting to see if anyone else has experienced this as well.

Probably your voltage protection system.


Sorry, couldn't resist.

Regarding IVC, this doesn't have to be on for LD to be active. Turning LD on by itself does just that. The IVC settings (I use low most of the time) appear to primarily increase the light output and make colors and white brighter. Comment is based upon light meter measurement during calibration.

Listen bud, I have been spending a fair degree of my own personal time to test some of this stuff and provide information that will help other Elite owners. I've also spent hours on email and phone w/ Elite to push for getting things like discrete IR codes, changes to menu functionality, and other things you'll see coming up. If you want to just be a clown and comedian, use PM or keep it to yourself.

If your sentiment / hostility is representative of the majority members here, which I'm gathering it is, I'm happy to spend my time elsewhere and stop making things happen for the better with Elite.

That is 100% accurate. But, this other person apparently knows a lot more about everything than anyone else here, so arguing it is a moot point.

lets keep this forum helpful

move on please

thanks