Sony VPL-vw1000 - Page 67

Ill have to go back and verify the specs, but Ron I believe the Sony takes 3d at 4k, just at 24hz only, which is likely to be 90% of what we want anyway, unless 48hz catches on, and then like Thrang said, its supposed to be upgradeable.

I was told it did.

I was under the same impression as well. If it doesnt I'd like to know how they will handle the upgrade?

some of the owners displayed a pattern of the gray ramp?
This is the result on my sony:

By slide1965

There are vertical lines across the ramp, it does not seem normal.

The situation improves using the Smooth Gradation.

I've had three of these projectors and didn't see anything like what your picture shows on any of them. I did have significant discoloration on the first two, but no vertical lines. I think you have a defective projector unless possibly it could be in your source. Try using the internal gamma patterns and see if the lines are still present.

I tried various gamma patterns and the situation does not change.
Today I went to my dealer to try out another sony 1000 and saw the same problem.
I have to think that the 2 vpr are both defective?

I tried the pattern of the gray ramp with 4 different BR sources:
Pioneer
Oppo
Cambridge
Yamaha

Were they all going through the same preamp or processor, or straight to the projector?

Did you try the internal Gamma pattern? Access the service menu, arrow down to "device" , then gamma, then just click to the right to go through different full field IRE patterns.

And this is a commercial disk I assume? Not a "home brew" pattern disc? (just checking all the possibilities)

thanks for the help!

yes, I tried to vary internal gamma pattern and the sources have been linked directly to projector.
Initially passed through a lumagen radiance then I bypassed and went direct to the vpr, but the problem persists.
Gray ramp pattern continues to show a ramp full of thin vertical lines of pinkish color.

It would not be a problem to send my projector to service (my dealer would give me another Sony in the meantime) but after seeing today another new car to present the exact same defect I stopped 'cause I thought that at this point, it may be a common problem on the various 1000.
Tomorrow I'll try a third machine, if it shows the same problem no longer know what to think.

For the pattern I used the AVS HD disc.

It doesn't sound like you are using the internal gamma patterns inside the projector firmware. You have to get into the service menu. This will eliminate any source issues.

I went into the service menu.......

I went into the internal service menu and called up several gray ramp patterns, found under other, under two pattern step toggles, lots of nice patterns there BTW, and could see no stirations. I suspect something else is going on perhaps related to the electrical supply system over there. I tried toggeling RC off and on and varying the settings under RC and could see no effect on the ramp patterns. Hope this helps.

I remember some of you all commenting on the noise of the pj and how it was pretty quiet. I'm thinking about mounting it rather close to the heads of the second and third row of seating. Second row viewers heads would be about 4'3" up and at an angle away. Third row would be about 2' 10" above the heads but about 8' in front of them.

What are your opinions? I am thinking about pacing it here way can go with a larger screen.

Here is a stick figure drawing of the tops of heads and where eyes would be located.



The box in front of it is soffit that I was going to add a hushbox to the bottom.

War Horse... Enough said!

how exactly did you get the test patterns.

My front speakers cooling fans and my U-Line refrigerator both seem to be more noisy than the Sony. It is unbelievably quiet. I will have 3rd row/countertop viewers much closer to it than what you are proposing.

We sit with it between the rows and it has never been an issue when it comes to loudness.

Question was how to select patterns. the first toggle is to enable the patterns to be selected, default is 1, lock them out is 0. Only two choices. next toggle is to choose the pattern. toggle 0 is basically off, 1-14 by rt arrow over gives you a variety of choices. If you need help, please call me.

Thanks Joerod and turls! I was glad to read the responses as I went ahead and ordered the 13' Ultramatte 150 so no turning back now!

Can someone tell me what mount this is and how it works?

No problem. You will love it.

I can't tell what the mount is without a picture of the mount. The pole is an adjustable 1 1/2" D pole that simply passes through a hole cut into the ceiling (there could be a cheap trim ring to finish the hole off, hard to see, the mount companies sell these as an accessory) where it undoubtedly attaches to some sort of 1 1/2" pipe flange, there are a variety that mount directly to a member or suspended between members. he actual mount is relatively inconsequential, a cheap Chief RPA020 will work fine as well as the slightly more expensive Chief RPMA020. the 020 is the correct plate number identifier for this projector.

Yeah the pole, and what is above the ceiling is what I'm more concerrned with as that is a very nice finished look. I assume all the cords are ran through the pole as well which is a nice feature.

just give me a call, please, I can guide you through with the right pieces from Chief, the big unknown is what you are going to connect the in ceiling end of the pole to, just tell me what is up there, solutions are very inexpensive.

I would NOT do this. I have being doing installs for a long time, and this method will marry you to this sort of setup. But, basically there is a ceiling flange inside the drywall, which a pipe is threaded into. That comes down to the main mount (which you cannot see as it is on the projector and the angle won't show it). The drywall is finished around it.

Again, this essentially makes it permanent and should you ever want to change anything it will require a lot of fixing. Oh, the cables pass through the pipe...

What would you suggest instead?

Try to mount to the drywall (or rather put support directly behind the drywall. The trick with this is they have to mount the flange BEFORE drywall, and then finish around it. But, if you ever have to move it, get at the cables, etc... You are SOL (unless somehow you create access).

True this is a clean look, but you sort of back yourself into a corner long term...

I have fabricated enclosures to hide mounts if they are going to be seen... Depending on the room and you can make it look like it is part of the room (even if you just enclose the mount and not the whole projector).

Big Easter weekend planned on the 1000. Hop and We Bought A Zoo will lead off. Followed by a 3D movie (Family's choice) afterwards...

audiovideoholic,

This is actually a mount from Digital Projection. It uses a thicker 2" pipe instead of the normal 1 1/2". The silver piece in the picture, is an adapter to adapter down to the standard 1 1/2" pipe for the Sony.

I completely disagree with the comments that you shouldn't do it this way, or that it locks you in more permanently than a surfaced mounted device. That is not true.

If you notice in my pic, there is a white blank plate on the ceiling just behind the projector. That was where a 1 1/2" pipe was before, and where about 6 different projectors hung over the years. When I switched to the DP Highlite and then the 1000, both machines were bigger and the pipe had to be moved further out from the wall. I just put a blank plate over that hole.

If I had a mount surface-mounted to the ceiling, there would be probably 4 or so screw holes spread out over a much larger area, and far more difficult to deal with then one 1 1/2" hole.

I have attic access, so this was a no-brainer. All of the connections run right down the pipe, and the mount is way more stable because it sits on top of the trusses, and screws down from the top. So the entire weight of the projector and mount is resting on top of the truss, the screws just hold the mount from shifting around.

So if you have attic access, I wouldn't do it any other way. Its much easier to throw up one blank plate to cover one hole for the pipe, then trying to patch a ton of screw holes spread out over a larger area. And its just a super clean install.

It is a Digital Projection Highlite adjustable mount. But just about all mounts are the same. The DP mount use a 2" pipe instead of a 1 1/2". So when I removed the DP projector I reduced the 2" down to a 1 1/2" and then used a universal chief mounting plate. The silver reducer was later painted black. Also the pipe wasn't sheetrocked around it. I used a hole saw to cut a perfect circle to run the pipe though. All this was done long after the Sheetrock was installed. But again attic access is a necessity.

See previous post.

The top plate could be changed and swapped back to a standard 1 1/2" pipe and use a blank plate with a hole cut in it to fit around the pipe. But the reason I didnt do that, was I was not 100% sure I would keep the Sony. And I'm glad I didn't change it because I have decide to put the highlite back up.

The Sony is great but in my family room brightness is more important since its a room with limited light control. The DP Higlite 260HB is way way brighter and looks great during the day. The Sony looks fantastic at night but just doesnt quite have enough brightness for daytime viewing.