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Sony VPL-vw1000 - Page 76

post #2251 of 4380
4/27/12 at 11:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

You talking about 2d-3d conversion mode? If so, I've never used that mode but could test it if you want.

Yeah I wouldnt really use it either for anything else, but putting up a test pattern and putting the unit in 2d-3d mode was the only way I could think of to get the Sony into 3d mode with something I could measure.
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post #2252 of 4380
4/27/12 at 11:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Yeah I wouldnt really use it either for anything else, but putting up a test pattern and putting the unit in 2d-3d mode was the only way I could think of to get the Sony into 3d mode with something I could measure.

I know you mentioned it was 2D->3D that you tested. The HT author stated that his results were the same with the conversion mode and also with a true 3D frame packed signal. Obviously this needs to be validated further.

One of our members made an excellent '3d Demo disk' with the L/R patterns that have been used in many of the 3D reviews and also a 100% IRE field that can be used to measure in 3D mode. I'll ask his permission to see if we can distribute the ISO and possibly burn to BD for those that need a disc. I have tons of blank 25 GB BDR's.

Ron - the HW30 stays at about the same lumen output in 3D mode as it is in 2D mode, ~900 lumens. Why is the VW1000 dropping to nearly 1/2 the 2D output?
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post #2253 of 4380
4/27/12 at 11:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Ok that makes sense... but wouldnt the Sony 95 do the same thing?... so its 3d lumens should be way less than the 1000? Didnt that review say they were pretty close to the same?

While the VW95 does have reduced duty cycle when in 3D mode, the HW30 and the VW95 introduced, for 3D mode, a new feature to pulse the bulb for additional light output (Sony calls this Dynamic Lamp Control) when actual frames are being displayed. This was done as a means of compensating for the light loss when in 3D mode. For the VW95 Sony describes the Dynamic Lamp Control Technology as:
"When each of the shutters on your 3D glasses opens, Dynamic Lamp Control Technology automatically boosts the brightness in the image to that eye, maximising the picture’s impact and the lamp’s efficiency. This means that you will not lose any brightness and attain the optimal visual experience from the comfort of your own home." I don't recall hearing or reading that the VW1000 has Dynamic Lamp Control.
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post #2254 of 4380
4/27/12 at 1:10pm
Are you 1000 owner plugging your machines directly into an outlet? Not sure if there are products out there for protection/filtering of projectors...
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post #2255 of 4380
4/27/12 at 1:14pm
Thanks, Zombie. If you can upload that ISO somewhere I can certainly use it with my OPPO. How big is it?
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post #2256 of 4380
4/27/12 at 1:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post

Are you 1000 owner plugging your machines directly into an outlet? Not sure if there are products out there for protection/filtering of projectors...

Any projector needs to be on a UPS, and this one probably deserves a high-end one that will give a true sin wave. Without a UPS when the power goes out what is going to cool the bulb. There are lots of threads on extending a UPS from a remote location.

I love my power setup with dedicated circuits, SurgeX, APC (extended to the theater rack and UPS), etc. Now if I could just track down this stinkin' ground loop
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post #2257 of 4380
4/27/12 at 7:19pm
I can close my eyes and imagine a "sin wave". I remember giving a few sin waves coupled with a fecal eating grin many years ago.


Matt. If you want help in tracking down that ground loop, please give me a call.
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post #2258 of 4380
4/27/12 at 7:23pm
Curious if some of you Oppo owners can share your HDMI output Color Space settings? (other than auto)
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post #2259 of 4380
4/27/12 at 8:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Curious if some of you Oppo owners can share your HDMI output Color Space settings? (other than auto)

i believe I settled on 4:4:4 after testing with Spears & Munsil. As I recall the difference was subtle, except for RGB which was considerably worse. This was a while back so I will need to check to make sure.
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post #2260 of 4380
4/27/12 at 8:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

i believe I settled on 4:4:4 after testing with Spears & Munsil. As I recall the difference was subtle, except for RGB which was considerably worse. This was a while back so I will need to check to make sure.

Thanks. How about your HDMI output setting? I'm also guessing you are doing source direct?
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post #2261 of 4380
4/27/12 at 8:26pm
I send the sources through a RadianceMIni, and the Radiance recommends sending 4:2:2, otherwise there are multiple unnecessary conversions back and forth.
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post #2262 of 4380
4/27/12 at 9:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post

Are you 1000 owner plugging your machines directly into an outlet? Not sure if there are products out there for protection/filtering of projectors...

Here's what I have. It's compact, and has surge/spike protection as well as RF & EM filtration.

APC AV C type 2 mfg. link

Another Source
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post #2263 of 4380
4/28/12 at 2:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

i believe I settled on 4:4:4 after testing with Spears & Munsil. As I recall the difference was subtle, except for RGB which was considerably worse. This was a while back so I will need to check to make sure.

Perfect. Also 36 bit up converted Deep Color.
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post #2264 of 4380
4/28/12 at 2:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigsMovies View Post

Here's what I have. It's compact, and has surge/spike protection as well as RF & EM filtration.

APC AV C type 2 mfg. link

Another Source

I've always just used this:
http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=914

I have a small box in my ceiling with it inside along with a Monster Power Cord which I have used with all my projectors. Not to mention the 3D Transmitter power cable (3D glasses) also plugs in up there. Also a Monster product.
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post #2265 of 4380
4/28/12 at 3:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post

Are you 1000 owner plugging your machines directly into an outlet? Not sure if there are products out there for protection/filtering of projectors...

Take a look on the 20k plus forum and search the topic for good suggestions. I have a UPS and most importantly a series mode surge protector. Google brick wall or surgeX. The first keeps the fan running long enough to cool bulb and the second is a non-sacrificial surge protector that does not use MOV's. Even with these a close lightning strike can kill any electronic product at the board level without having the surge pass through the power cord.
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post #2266 of 4380
4/28/12 at 5:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN View Post


Take a look on the 20k plus forum and search the topic for good suggestions. I have a UPS and most importantly a series mode surge protector. Google brick wall or surgeX. The first keeps the fan running long enough to cool bulb and the second is a non-sacrificial surge protector that does not use MOV's. Even with these a close lightning strike can kill any electronic product at the board level without having the surge pass through the power cord.

I also have a SurgeX then a Pure Power 1050 ups prior to my projector. Works great.
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post #2267 of 4380
4/28/12 at 5:13am
I'm using the PSAudio PPP (Power Plant Premier). Probably overkill.
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post #2268 of 4380
4/28/12 at 5:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

So true, Mark: with 323 hrs now on the lamp (I'm truly addicted!) I just measured ~ 35 ftL with a 136x72 pic (17x9 pic) on a HP2.4 screen. This is with high lamp; low lamp reduces it to ~ 25 ftL. Brightness is indeed a seducer!


Millerwill

Could you please measure the ftL in 3D trought the glasses, it seems to be a big drop, probely because off a relative short duty open cycle in the glasses to minimize/ remove all ghosting ,but few has measured it

TIA

dj
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post #2269 of 4380
4/28/12 at 7:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Millerwill

Could you please measure the ftL in 3D trought the glasses, it seems to be a big drop, probely because off a relative short duty open cycle in the glasses to minimize/ remove all ghosting ,but few has measured it

TIA

dj

I've not done any 3d.
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post #2270 of 4380
4/28/12 at 8:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Thanks, Zombie. If you can upload that ISO somewhere I can certainly use it with my OPPO. How big is it?

It's small, only 250 MB's or so. I'll send you a link in a PM to download it from my website. Fast forward to 2:13 and pause. This is a 100% IRE white screen in 3D mode.

It also has the L/R patterns which is about as brutal a test as it gets for detecting the ghosting capabilities of a 3D projector. I'm curious to hear what you think of the L/R test (you shouldn't see any ghosting remains of the L or R image in each respective eye) and also the 'white on black' & 'black on white' tests that are including in this 3D demo. (courtesy of Joseph Clark)

edit: if any other VW1000 owners want to try out this 3D demo, please let me know and I'll send you a link. You'll need the ability to play back an ISO which the Oppo can handle. I can also burn a few BDR's for those that are interested.
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post #2271 of 4380
4/28/12 at 8:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rex View Post

I also have a SurgeX then a Pure Power 1050 ups prior to my projector. Works great.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. So for a ceiling mount, where do you put these units?

As you can see I didn't plan this part out!
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post #2272 of 4380
4/28/12 at 12:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post


Thanks for the suggestions guys. So for a ceiling mount, where do you put these units?

As you can see I didn't plan this part out!

My surge suppression and UPS lie in my rack. I'm using a power inlet to supply power to the outlet at the projector. If you search for "power inlet" you should find lots of good info. The capsule summary is at it's a fully UL- and code-approved way to extend from your UPS to a hardwired outlet in a remote location.

If you have an outlet at the projector that is on its own circuit, a qualified electrician can probably convert it to one that is connected to an inlet elsewhere where a UPS can be conveniently located.
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post #2273 of 4380
4/28/12 at 3:49pm
Couple of interesting observations. First, the number of "boxes within a box" decreased with each shipment... kinda funny... the first replacement was double boxed, with a huge third box around the second one that had tons of peanuts in it... they surprised me when I took the top box off and they went everywhere. The second replacement came simply double boxed, with the outer box being the one with all the Sony graphics, and the inner being just a brown box. The third replacement was just a single Sony box, and a good bit smaller than the previous box that had the graphics. Just thought all that was interesting.
What was MORE interesting was that this last replacement had a new number on the model name. Instead of vpl- vw1000ES, it says vpl- vw1000ES1. None of the others said "1" on the end. Possibly some sort of revision? The model name on the actual projector does not have the "1" though, just all of the official tags on the box above where the serial number is listed.
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post #2274 of 4380
4/28/12 at 4:47pm
Wrong thread...
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post #2275 of 4380
4/28/12 at 6:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Couple of interesting observations. First, the number of "boxes within a box" decreased with each shipment... kinda funny... the first replacement was double boxed, with a huge third box around the second one that had tons of peanuts in it... they surprised me when I took the top box off and they went everywhere. The second replacement came simply double boxed, with the outer box being the one with all the Sony graphics, and the inner being just a brown box. The third replacement was just a single Sony box, and a good bit smaller than the previous box that had the graphics. Just thought all that was interesting.
What was MORE interesting was that this last replacement had a new number on the model name. Instead of vpl- vw1000ES, it says vpl- vw1000ES1. None of the others said "1" on the end. Possibly some sort of revision? The model name on the actual projector does not have the "1" though, just all of the official tags on the box above where the serial number is listed.

You keep exchanging these and they are going to start delivering them covered with dry cleaning plastic.
Just kidding. Hope this one is the one, for you.
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post #2276 of 4380
4/28/12 at 8:44pm
Lol... or maybe a paper bag with Mark's towel on top.
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post #2277 of 4380
4/28/12 at 9:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Lol... or maybe a paper bag with Mark's towel on top.

Come on, you don't still remember that old wife's tale, do you?

PS And it wasn't a paper bag, but a 1st class LL Bean heavy canvas carry bag.
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post #2278 of 4380
4/29/12 at 2:35am
Quick question to the owner of the VW-1000 how accurate is the zoom memory on your unit, mine is really accurate for the left/right side but for the top/bottom it's 1-2inch off.

For example, after setting 16:9 and 2.35 memory exactly right and switching between the 2 the top will be off, sometime it's very close, sometime it's off by 5cm, should this be considered normal or is this a problem with the optic?
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post #2279 of 4380
4/29/12 at 3:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Come on, you don't still remember that old wife's tale, do you?
PS And it wasn't a paper bag, but a 1st class LL Bean heavy canvas carry bag.


we all do - its going to be a "Millerwill legend"

dj
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post #2280 of 4380
4/29/12 at 6:13am
Yesterday my wife and I drove to a rest stop just before the southern end of the NJ turnpike with a pair of Thiel 3.6 speakers completely filling the back of a Malibu, not a 1/4 inch width to spare and met a customer driving down from Westchester NY to receive them. Some people in the parking lot came to observe what we were doing taking large boxes out of one car and loading them into another in the rest stop parking lot.
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