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Integra DHC-80.3 - Page 8

post #211 of 4252
Shouldn't have any affect on your calibration, only your chroma resolution. I doubt you'll see any difference in your measurements for chroma.
post #212 of 4252
BTW,

I have a 5.1 B&W speaker setup. My understanding is that having more than 1 sub is better.

Together with DHC-80.3 I was thinking about getting an extra B&W CM Center sub to make it a 5.2 system.

I do have a small room about 12'x14' and wanted to check if 2 subs are recommended in small rooms ?
post #213 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post

BTW,

I have a 5.1 B&W speaker setup. My understanding is that having more than 1 sub is better.

Together with DHC-80.3 I was thinking about getting an extra B&W CM Center sub to make it a 5.2 system.

I do have a small room about 12'x14' and wanted to check if 2 subs are recommended in small rooms ?

Two subs, like two heads, are usually always better than one. I would think they would benefit a smaller room more than a bigger one, because two subs at two locations would better fill in and spread out room modes. Smaller rooms have more modal issues.

My room at 24 x 17 isn't exactly small, But I am quite happy with one good JL Audio sub. Audyssey does a real good job of leveling out the modes. You will only get 3 db more bass output from two subs, so you have to decide if it is worth the added cost for slightly more bass headroom. Personally, if my system were in all other ways where I wanted it to be, a second sub would be a consideration only then if I had the cash. But, I am really not in need of more bass. I've got plenty which is pretty tight, pretty deep and pretty flat right now with just one.
post #214 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlknez View Post

Uh Oh! First problem encountered on my new 80.3. My kids are out of the house to go to school and the air conditioning is turned off, so I decided to run my audyssey xt32 calibration.

I plugged in the mic and was presented with a screen that asked if my fronts were normal or biamped and if i have high and wides. It defaulted to bi-amp as that is how I set up my speakers in the initial hardware config. It also asked how many subwoofers i had and I chose one.

It then gave a tone and asked me to change the subwoofer gain to output 75db. I did so. Then it said to move the mic to position 1. It did the normal sweeps on my 2 fronts, center, surrounds and sub. It did 2 sweeps on my sub, a quiet sweep then a louder one.

Audyssey asked me to change to position 2 and continue. I did so and when I continued, it only used the mids and tweets on my fronts but the normal full-range on my others. I thought that was odd, but finished all 8 positions. It then calculated a 40hz crossover for my surrounds and center, but a 150hz crossover for my fronts!!!!!! My fronts are bi-amped Piega P10s! On the Audyssey on my former DTC-9.8, audyssey tried to set them as full range and I changed the crossover to 45.

It seems that the bi-amp is not being engaged for the fronts after position 1.

I did a factory reset and then did a retest with the same results.

I called tech support and they said that they have not heard of this issue and that they DO NOT HAVE ONE TO TEST WITH. What are they there for, if they cannot test an issue? Are they only there to read the manual to me?

They did offer to call me back later today and said they would speak with my dealer if I wanted a refund.

Beware anyone that has bi-amped front speakers...

I have *heard* that Onkyo has found the bi-amp/Audyssey problem you describe and are working on a fix. That's all I know right now.

Jeff
post #215 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by fitzcaraldo215 View Post

Two subs, like two heads, are usually always better than one. I would think they would benefit a smaller room more than a bigger one, because two subs at two locations would better fill in and spread out room modes. Smaller rooms have more modal issues.

My room at 24 x 17 isn't exactly small, But I am quite happy with one good JL Audio sub. Audyssey does a real good job of leveling out the modes. You will only get 3 db more bass output from two subs, so you have to decide if it is worth the added cost for slightly more bass headroom. Personally, if my system were in all other ways where I wanted it to be, a second sub would be a consideration only then if I had the cash. But, I am really not in need of more bass. I've got plenty which is pretty tight, pretty deep and pretty flat right now with just one.

Yes, I thought it was a bit overkill for me... I'll stick with one sub.

Thanks.
post #216 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

I have *heard* that Onkyo has found the bi-amp/Audyssey problem you describe and are working on a fix. That's all I know right now.

Jeff

Thanks for reporting back on what you "heard". As I created a case, you would think that I would have "heard" something as well, but poor communications is part of my history with Onkyo support.
post #217 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post

BTW,

I have a 5.1 B&W speaker setup. My understanding is that having more than 1 sub is better.

Together with DHC-80.3 I was thinking about getting an extra B&W CM Center sub to make it a 5.2 system.

I do have a small room about 12'x14' and wanted to check if 2 subs are recommended in small rooms ?

If you have a good sub adding another sub typically isn't about getting more bass in the room. Afterall, you're still going to calibrate to the same reference level. But adding more subs to the room gives you more dynamic headroom as one sub isn't taxed as much to deliver extremes when needed. But more importantly, multiple subs help even the room response. This goes a long way with room modes and helping flatten the room response across multiple seating positions with little to no EQ'ing. In the end you want the least amount of EQ'ing possible since the more you EQ the less resolution you have to work with (all these great EQs and DSP modes effectively reduce the resolution of the audio you're working with, so less is sometimes more).
post #218 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Not doing it does a color space conversion that rolls off chroma detail. So the only way to have a pure passthru that doesn't hurt chroma detail is to use the steps mentioned before. Through doesn't disable this.

Has it been confirmed that the 80.3 has the chroma color space bug?
post #219 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

If you have a good sub adding another sub typically isn't about getting more bass in the room. Afterall, you're still going to calibrate to the same reference level. But adding more subs to the room gives you more dynamic headroom as one sub isn't taxed as much to deliver extremes when needed. But more importantly, multiple subs help even the room response. This goes a long way with room modes and helping flatten the room response across multiple seating positions with little to no EQ'ing. In the end you want the least amount of EQ'ing possible since the more you EQ the less resolution you have to work with (all these great EQs and DSP modes effectively reduce the resolution of the audio you're working with, so less is sometimes more).

What? Come again? Are you trying to say that EQ detracts from sound quality somehow, and that, say, reducing a +10 db peak at a particular frequency is not going to sound as good as reducing a + 7dB peak because you have 2 subwoofers? But, the EQ is just doing math on the signal. Applying a 10 db cut consumes no more DSP resources than applying a 7 dB cut, per my my example.

I realize that in some prepros with more limited DSP computing resources, notably in my experience, the Anthem D2V, there is a tradeoff. Anthem defaults their ARC EQ to 5K Hz because applying EQ above that frequency would take DSP EQ resources away from the bass frequencies, where EQ is most need typically. But, I see no evidence whatsoever that there are similar DSP limitations in the Integra prepros with Audyssey XT/32.

Do you disagree?
post #220 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlknez View Post

Thanks for reporting back on what you "heard". As I created a case, you would think that I would have "heard" something as well, but poor communications is part of my history with Onkyo support.

There is a fix coming in a few days. Consumers are rarely clued in to these things like they should be.

Jeff
post #221 of 4252
Well, i was one of the unlucky ones that purchased a faulty 80.2 but luckily it was less than 6 months old so my dealer was able to replace it for me but he had to get me the 80.3 instead which was fine by me. Right out of the box i noticed it is real hard to get it to take remote control commands, sometimes i have to press buttons multiple times before it responds. It's that way with the factory remote and my Harmony one so i believe it's the processor. anyone else having any problems with theirs as far as remote control issues? As far as the clicking this processor is a lot more quiet than the 80.2 when changing audio streams and watching Direct TV DVR recorded programs. I hate to think that i'll have to return this unit also and be down another 3 to 4 weeks.
post #222 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentuckytech View Post

Well, i was one of the unlucky ones that purchased a faulty 80.2 but luckily it was less than 6 months old so my dealer was able to replace it for me but he had to get me the 80.3 instead which was fine by me. Right out of the box i noticed it is real hard to get it to take remote control commands, sometimes i have to press buttons multiple times before it responds. It's that way with the factory remote and my Harmony one so i believe it's the processor. anyone else having any problems with theirs as far as remote control issues? As far as the clicking this processor is a lot more quiet than the 80.2 when changing audio streams and watching Direct TV DVR recorded programs. I hate to think that i'll have to return this unit also and be down another 3 to 4 weeks.

I have had no issues with the included remote nor using my Harmony One remote. You may have a problem or it may be your angle/distance/enclosure/ir interference.
post #223 of 4252
In over a month of ownership I have had neither remote control issues nor random clicks. I have had random HDMI handshake issues between my Oppo 83 and my Integra when playing SACD's or DVD-A's. Shutting down both units and then powering them up seems to resolve HDMI handshake problems. (HDMI is indeed a connector protocol conceived by the devil, as a critic has noted.) No problems with Blu-ray.
post #224 of 4252
Well, I placed my order for the 80.3 today. Should get it next week.

I'll be purchasing some 6ft XLR cables to match it up with my XPA5... but still undecided to buy monoprice or blue jeans cable.

My understanding is that $5 xlr monoprice cables won't be different from $30 xlr BJC cables in SQ, but maybe I shouldn't skimp out and buy better quality cables from BJC ?

I also saw below cables from CBI & GLS audio that are cheaper than BJC
http://www.zzounds.com/item--CBIMLN
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patc...804189&sr=8-14

What cables are other 80.3 owners buying ?
post #225 of 4252
I have an 80.1 and use mono price xlr's, I'm pleased with their quality.
post #226 of 4252
I went with the monoprice xlr's and am glad I did.
post #227 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post

What cables are other 80.3 owners buying ?

I am using Markertek's cables & am happy. http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Audi...SC100XXJ.xhtml
post #228 of 4252
Markertek. Canare cable (different colors for channel ID).
post #229 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post

Well, I placed my order for the 80.3 today. Should get it next week.

I'll be purchasing some 6ft XLR cables to match it up with my XPA5... but still undecided to buy monoprice or blue jeans cable.

My understanding is that $5 xlr monoprice cables won't be different from $30 xlr BJC cables in SQ, but maybe I shouldn't skimp out and buy better quality cables from BJC ?

I also saw below cables from CBI & GLS audio that are cheaper than BJC
http://www.zzounds.com/item--CBIMLN
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patc...804189&sr=8-14

What cables are other 80.3 owners buying ?

I am quite happy with XLR's from bettercables.com. I replaced some expensive Cardas with them because I thought they sounded better.
post #230 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by cougar75 View Post

Markertek. Canare cable (different colors for channel ID).

Yes, I checked these out... Canare star quad cables are supposed to be better and it comes with Neutrik connectors... and they also come in in different colors

These just made my top list
post #231 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post

Yes, I checked these out... Canare star quad cables are supposed to be better and it comes with Neutrik connectors... and they also come in in different colors

These just made my top list

I bought the Blue Jeans XLR's but then had to send them to Tibet to have Himalayan glacial run off water sprinkled on them by the Dalai Lama and that was kinda expensive. They sound great though ...
post #232 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

I bought the Blue Jeans XLR's but then had to send them to Tibet to have Himalayan glacial run off water sprinkled on them by the Dalai Lama and that was kinda expensive. They sound great though ...

I'd want to make sure that it's not yellow.
post #233 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

I'd want to make sure that it's not yellow.

Not to get into a pissing contest but it would have to be either Sherpa or Yeti pee and in either case, it has been pretty well documented that would only help the SQ of the cables.
post #234 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

I don't know about that ... It would have to be either Sherpa or Yeti pee and in either case, would only help the SQ of the cables.

Yes, good point.
post #235 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by spike9876 View Post


I also saw below cables from CBI & GLS audio that are cheaper than BJC
http://www.zzounds.com/item--CBIMLN
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patc...804189&sr=8-14

What cables are other 80.3 owners buying ?


I actually bought the GLS cables a few years ago, and I have never had a problem with them, and for the price I am not complaining.. I also enjoyed having a different color for each channel..
post #236 of 4252
Agreed. - I bought longer runs of thr GLS colored ones so I could identify my 6 sub driver amps in my rack easier. Plenty good quality for the price.
post #237 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

Agreed. - I bought longer runs of thr GLS colored ones so I could identify my 6 sub driver amps in my rack easier. Plenty good quality for the price.

Yes, you can't go wrong to get GLS 6 pack 6' for $30... but I ended buying 5 TecNec Premium XLR Cables with Canare Star Quad and Neutrik XLRs (from markertek.com) for about $15 each.
post #238 of 4252
Correct - I'm a big fan of Neutrik connections, use them all on my DIY speaker wire runs to my DIY subs builds. I can't say I find the GLS lacking in any way in comparison....

http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/
post #239 of 4252
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Not to get into a pissing contest but it would have to be either Sherpa or Yeti pee and in either case, it has been pretty well documented that would only help the SQ of the cables.



yep...when it comes to cables, you're a wizz...
post #240 of 4252
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