or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 40

post #1171 of 2557
Oh sorry.

Didn't realize that only Panasonic owners were allowed an opinion on their precious new televisions. The amount of times it happens on forums around the globe is shocking. Nearly one rule for some and rules for others. This is a Pioneer thread dude.
post #1172 of 2557
@VidPro

Can you please share these information:

1- How many hours do you have on the Kuro?
2- Have you been using any of the power save modes? If yes, for how long

Sorry to hear about the red tint issue, unfortunately once you see it once it's hard to not look for it anymore.
post #1173 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Oh sorry.

Didn't realize that only Panasonic owners were allowed an opinion on their precious new televisions. The amount of times it happens on forums around the globe is shocking. Nearly one rule for some and rules for others. This is a Pioneer thread dude.

On top of that he got rid of his 151 because of the red tint not because he thought another TV had better pq. The issue is the tint.

TV ownership makes some people crazy to protect what the bought. Even former kuro owners.
post #1174 of 2557
I'm not crazy, just growing weary of Stu posting how Pioneer is above and beyond everything else in every facet, ever, as if there are no faults when that is not entirely the truth.

You can call me crazy as long as you let me call that hyperbolic.
Edited by vinnie97 - 7/26/13 at 1:11pm
post #1175 of 2557
Well yeah, every TV has problems and none are perfect. I agree with you there.
post #1176 of 2557
It does suck that we don't have an all-around improved set five years later...it's one of the reasons for all this infighting. ;(
post #1177 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

I'm not crazy, just growing weary of Stu posting how Pioneer is above and beyond everything else in every facet, ever, as if there are no faults when that is not entirely the truth.

You can call me crazy as long as you let me call that hyperbolic.

How can you even say i have ever even implied that. They obviously have their faults - hence why my last had the red tint confused.gif

What is wearing is the fact that because you have a Panasonic now that you feel the need to shove it down everyone's throats. Regardless of what thread it is. Almost as if you are trying to convince yourself as well as everyone else that you have made the correct choice.
post #1178 of 2557
Try the informal comparison thread for starters. And yes, please pass along some examples of all this self-affirmation I'm seeking in these "countless" other threads if you can. rolleyes.gif My decision can in no way be construed as the wrong one, unless I had decided to take the riskier approach on a used 60" 151/141FD/600M for which I would have had to drive hundreds upon hundreds of miles just to observe and likely make the decision on the spot without a warranty, with no way of knowing the actual history of the panel. If it was afflicted with the red tint, this would have the likelihood of being even harder to detect unless observed at night or in a light-controlled environment and would absolutely render the decision to purchase moot.
Edited by vinnie97 - 7/27/13 at 11:20am
post #1179 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by cischico View Post

After playing the voltages and test patterns here is what I found:

RST P is like adjusting the backlight and when you adjust it it can give the appearance of actually fixing the red tint, but in reality it doesn't, not by itself anyway

YNOFS3 D actually reduces the red tint. The default value of this is 128 and I adjusted mine to 100. You can definitely tell the red tint goes away. For me it looks like 90%, with the little amount of light in my room
I can't tell if my eyes are playing tricks on me or if it actually all went away. Now i did notice along the top and bottom edges on the screen there looks like more "wear and tear" than the rest of the screen for lack of
better term. I attached a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. photo.JPG 377k .JPG file When I make voltage adjustments I focus on the top and bottom borders as that
is where the majority of the red tint is. Below is some steps to follow


To observe/repeat my steps do the following:

Download Kuro Control (When you connect you may get errors, just ignore them)

The command to send is in "[COMMAND]" ex [MKRS05] tells your display to show Raster Mask Pattern 5. Do not actually include the brackets when you send the command.

[MKRS05] Use Raster Mask to 5 (Black pattern to emulate 0 IRE)
[VRP031] Set RSTP P to default value of 31 (For 5020)
[V3F100] Set YNOFS3 D to 100 and adjust from there

All other values are at stock

[MKCS01] is for moving patterns change the last two digits to change the pattern
[MKRS01] is for solid display colors

I liked to use MKCS06 as a torture test. This pattern looks like it would clear all Image Retention of every plasma display in a 100 mile radius. If your sensitive to epileptic seizures I would not use this pattern.

Best way to describe it is the video pattern to that you would run to clear IR except it is super bright with some kind of high frequency flashing. Basically the video pattern on crack.

Now I have noticed for my display that the default VOL RST P of 31 is too high. Now I apologize if I can't explain this well, but my display looks much more "even" (on an all black screen) when I set it to 20. I'm still experimenting with this value. The basis for my conclusion is when I get up close to my kuro, like literally 1cm away and I look at the top and bottom edges and then the whole screen it just looks "over driven" or stressed. When I lower it the screen looks more uniform. Its a very slight change but I can notice it.

Hopefully I made sense and I hope this helps everyone.



I tried this method on my 500m last night and it got rid of most of the red tint about 90% of it.

I bought it used about four months ago and I was impressed with the set the red tint and all. But I always thought that the blacks just didn't live up to the hype. The red tint was also annoying to look at especially with movies with black bars.

My stock voltages were:

RSTP - 33

YNOFS3 - 128


I put in Iron Man and put it on a scene where the red tint prevalent

Then I lowered the YNOFS3 to 100 and I could see the red tint fade away. But now that the red tint was gone I wanted to see if I could change the greyish "black bars" I was seeing.

So then I lowered the RST P to 30 and you could see the black bars turn darker.

Now I could finally see the inky blacks that were missing from the highly hyped TV.

It’s actually a simple process once your comfortable in the service menu and it's also reversible.

I'm a lot happier with my set now.


Thank to cischico for all the help
post #1180 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

@VidPro

Can you please share these information:

1- How many hours do you have on the Kuro?
2- Have you been using any of the power save modes? If yes, for how long

Sorry to hear about the red tint issue, unfortunately once you see it once it's hard to not look for it anymore.

I believe power save was shut off by D-Nice when my set was calibrated by him and I never put it back on. That was prett much when I first got the unit. Not sure how to read the hours though. I'll search it out and see if I can come up with a number.
post #1181 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

I believe power save was shut off by D-Nice when my set was calibrated by him and I never put it back on. That was prett much when I first got the unit. Not sure how to read the hours though. I'll search it out and see if I can come up with a number.
Thanks for replying, I guess the red tint issue doesn't exclusively happen to people who used the PS modes for a long time.

Checking the hours on a 500M is very easy:

http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301

Just takes a couple of minutes if you've got a router close by, much easier than being forced to connect a serial cable and initiate the SM just to see the hours with my 5020FD lol.
post #1182 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Thanks for replying, I guess the red tint issue doesn't exclusively happen to people who used the PS modes for a long time.

Checking the hours on a 500M is very easy:

http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301

Just takes a couple of minutes if you've got a router close by, much easier than being forced to connect a serial cable and initiate the SM just to see the hours with my 5020FD lol.

I'll run a network cable tomorrow. If I had to take a wild guess I'm thinking about 6000 hours or less. Probably more like 5000.
post #1183 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by albertnsb View Post

I tried this method on my 500m last night and it got rid of most of the red tint about 90% of it.

I bought it used about four months ago and I was impressed with the set the red tint and all. But I always thought that the blacks just didn't live up to the hype. The red tint was also annoying to look at especially with movies with black bars.

My stock voltages were:

RSTP - 33

YNOFS3 - 128


I put in Iron Man and put it on a scene where the red tint prevalent

Then I lowered the YNOFS3 to 100 and I could see the red tint fade away. But now that the red tint was gone I wanted to see if I could change the greyish "black bars" I was seeing.

So then I lowered the RST P to 30 and you could see the black bars turn darker.

Now I could finally see the inky blacks that were missing from the highly hyped TV.

It’s actually a simple process once your comfortable in the service menu and it's also reversible.

I'm a lot happier with my set now.


Thank to cischico for all the help

Glad it worked out for you. I haven't had a problem since I made those adjustments. If anyone is wondering I got this idea from the service manual. It tells you how to set the voltage from the factory using the built in patterns. I isolated the ones that I saw had the most effect on black levels. If anyone is worried if you'll harm your display, using the built in patterns will show you if you have gone too far.
post #1184 of 2557
Does anyone know where I can get the service manual for a 151FD?
post #1185 of 2557
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixdoctor View Post

Does anyone know where I can get the service manual for a 151FD?

PM me an email. I will send you a copy for the 151FD
post #1186 of 2557
Being an obsessive kind of person this red tint thing bugs me a lot. So I don't know if I am focusing on this so much that my eyes are playing tricks on me but has anybody else with this issue notice that the tint fluctuates in intensity? I swear since I noticed the red tint it is less severe or maybe more uniform. I'm not sure which yet. Ok back to the loony bin for me. smile.gif
post #1187 of 2557
Perhaps it differs in intensity with different drive modes. And/or the RGB 16-235 or RGB 0-255 video settings
post #1188 of 2557
Not really sure. Later when I get home and it's dark I'll look at it again. At least looking at a blank screen is usually better than most TV or this would be crazy. LOL!
post #1189 of 2557
I have also noticed (or thought I noticed...) the red tint seems to fluctuate somewhat. Sometimes I would even swear that the tint had disappeared, but it would again show up. Sometimes it is only noticeable near the extremes of the screen and at other times seems to invade the top and bottom 1/3 of the screen.

My room has relatively constant illumination (no windows) and viewing conditions are relatively the same.....As was stated above....maybe I am also a contender for the loony bin......but it does SEEM to vary somewhat. I think I am learning to ignore it on dark scenes with letterboxing as when I look at the picture, it does not bother me, but if I consciously look at the "black" bars, they do seem red tinted (but not on bright scenes). I thought it was more apparent when first noticed a couple years ago, so I must be learning to live with it. Otherwise the picture on my 111FD is spectacular....

Cheers,
phannon
post #1190 of 2557
Lol

Nothing loony about spending a lot of money on Japanese for black (KURO) only sadly for it to turn red eek.gif

wink.gif

If Pioneer had made it to 10 and 11G then the faulty red tinted 9G's would have been re-adjusted no questions asked.
post #1191 of 2557
how do i get into the factory settings where i can change the voltage and such on a krp 500a? controlcal doesn't want to connect... any tips?

edit: sorry, i mean kuro control. using a normal ethernet cord, through a router, and even directly through the PC and TV. maybe i need a crossover ethernet cable? annoying.
Edited by keiji haino - 8/12/13 at 1:59pm
post #1192 of 2557
Hello smile.gif

Can someone please help me and tell me how do i save the settings of service menu and the same picture that i configured after i exit?

I do FAY FACS01 to enter the menu and play with the settings and after when i exit i do FACS00 to exit the menu.

After i shut down the tv and switch the power bottun off and even unplug the power cable and after 1 min return it,

But when i open the tv again the picture is not the same as i configured it inside the service menu mad.gif

Only when i get back to the service menu again i can see that the settings are saved and the picture which i configured and i like, only can be seen with the service menu working on the background.

Will appreciate and be very glad if somone have some answers or solution for that. wink.gif
Edited by Stookza - 9/8/13 at 5:56am
post #1193 of 2557
Is this for the service menu voltage adjustments you mean ?...

Sending the tv to standby before unplugging should be saving the adjustments
post #1194 of 2557
thx Stu smile.gif

Yes i meant for that.

But when i close the tv with the standby like u said, it doesnt work. frown.gif

I mean that the voltage settings are saved but the picture is not the same as like when im inside of the voltage adjusments..

So to enjoy the best picture quality which i like, i mean for strong backlight, shining white, high luminanace and contrast, i always have to watch it inside the service menu while the menu is on the background

And only after i clicked ok to enter specific to the voltage settings again i get that picture which i like and when i exit i lose that picture again but not the settings.
Edited by Stookza - 9/20/13 at 5:42pm
post #1195 of 2557
Many thanks to stroud and mascior!
My PRO-101FD's black levels are back, it had almost 10,000 hours, did hour and pulse reset and blacks seem much blacker now, the screen just disappears in dark room, even after my eyes adjust to the dark room the screen has no glow whatsoever.

Not sure if it's a good thing, but we'll see in coming months smile.gif I will continue to enjoy it.
post #1196 of 2557
edit
post #1197 of 2557
Well, that joy was a bit short lived:
I see some pixel artifacts on the screen at certain content, here is an example:http://i.imgur.com/0qGUtfK.jpg


What voltages I need to adjust to clear this up?

Edit 1:
These are the default voltages before and after :
VOL SUS 128
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RST P 026 (Is this too low?)
VOL XPOFS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D 138
VOL YKNOFS4 D 149
VOL YKNOFSA D 128

Edit 2:
New values
VOL SUS 170
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RST P 026
VOL XPOFS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D 158
VOL YKNOFS3 D 148
VOL YKNOFS4 D 169
VOL YKNOFSA D 148

I had a combination of windows open (on win 7) that kept the sparkles on, then raised VOL SUS up to 170 and saw the sparkles disappear. After FAN command, a very few sparkles remain. May be need to raise VOL SUS above 190?
Thanks
Edited by jyqureshi - 10/5/13 at 2:25pm
post #1198 of 2557
Reading through the thread found out that D-Nice had advised to not reset the pulse meter ... oh well.

So, people who DID reset their KURO's pulse meters, how are the TVs fairing after almost 2 years?
post #1199 of 2557
Only problem I have is elevated black levels and all of this seems too risky to me, so if I don't do this I am annoyingly having to work out a deal on another unseen elite, ie waste a bunch of money, then sell my current one and have a big hassle of tryignt o do so.
post #1200 of 2557
bump?
Anyone who reset their pulse meter got their Kuro pixels shoot plasma balls after 1-2 years?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread