then the solution would be to lower only the VOL YKNOFSA D?
It looks like raising it is working for some while lowering is working for others. It appears that adjusting this value has fixed some people's red tint so it seems like it might be worth a try. I think I will give it a try once I figure out how to get into the SM and get some time to re read some of these posts. Try at your own risk. Let us know if you try anything and how it works out though!
then the solution would be to lower only the VOL YKNOFSA D?
No. Playing with that particular control will guarantee pixel misfire.... especially with a setting of 60. Quite easy to see on red, green, blue and black full screen patterns.
No. Playing with that particular control will guarantee pixel misfire.... especially with a setting of 60. Quite easy to see on red, green, blue and black full screen patterns.
No. Playing with that particular control will guarantee pixel misfire.... especially with a setting of 60. Quite easy to see on red, green, blue and black full screen patterns.
Interesting thanks for the feedback.
I checked the display last night with full screen green, red, blue and black patterns but could not see any pixel misfire - However I'm not sure if you meant that this issue would exhibit itself immediately or could take some time to develop.
In any case, I've taken the VOL YKNOFSA D back up to 80 as this still yields acceptable results.
I checked the display last night with full screen green, red, blue and black patterns but could not see any pixel misfire - However I'm not sure if you meant that this issue would exhibit itself immediately or could take some time to develop.
In any case, I've taken the VOL YKNOFSA D back up to 80 as this still yields acceptable results.
Macca
When i took YKNOFSA D down to 70 i crushed my black on my 500 big time and lost a lot of shadow detail, and when i raised brightness to +5 it still wasnt right, not that its normal to have brightness that high anyway
When i took YKNOFSA D down to 70 i crushed my black on my 500 big time and lost a lot of shadow detail, and when i raised brightness to +5 it still wasnt right, not that its normal to have brightness that high anyway
At 80, I don't seem to have lost any shadow detail - A black crush test pattern looks ok and a bit of real work viewing last night seemed good as well.
I'll keep monitoring it over the next couple of weeks to see how things develop
At 80, I don't seem to have lost any shadow detail - A black crush test pattern looks ok and a bit of real work viewing last night seemed good as well.
I'll keep monitoring it over the next couple of weeks to see how things develop
Also at 70 i had/have a lot of pink sparkles on certain moving images which takes about 5 seconds to shift, but that was without touching any of the other voltages.
I checked the display last night with full screen green, red, blue and black patterns but could not see any pixel misfire - However I'm not sure if you meant that this issue would exhibit itself immediately or could take some time to develop.
In any case, I've taken the VOL YKNOFSA D back up to 80 as this still yields acceptable results.
Macca
My question would be how far away from the screen were you when checking for misfire? You have to be right on the screen to see them. They will look like black dots appearing and disappearing.
How uniform is an all black screen (a black screen would be defined as a 0% stimuli pattern, NOT a blank input)? Your setting should clearly show significant splotches and blobs that take up the majority of the screen.... which are pixels failing to initialize.
For the record, the setting you are playing with should always be set to 128 and should never be modified beyond that setting.
D-Nice, my biggest respect to you and your knowledge about the kuro-technolgy.
My opinion is you know more about the issue of "the redish tint" then you tell us. You pushed the Kuros in the past, but you don't help us to solve the problem.
My screen glows "redish", that's a fact. It has started in the right corner short after one year of use, only visible in a dark scene and room. Now after 2 1/2 years you can see it in a bright room.
The pioneer service couldn't fix it and told my to set the brighness higher(+2). That's not a fix, that's crap. Dark scence looks than greyish. The mighty "Kuro=black" is gone.
I spent a lot of money for the Kuro and after 2 1/2 years of use it's only a big paperweight. One of the reasons why i bought it, was that I use pioneer products now over 20 years. I won't buy Pioneer products anymore.
It's been a while since I posted on this thread. I see a couple of familiar names from the UK forum, who have been a massive help on this issue.
As the YKNOFSA D voltage seems to be the key one, I just wondered if anyone out there actually knows what this voltage actually does? D-Nice, do you have any ideas?
I've owned a 5080HD since 2008 and the panel displays dark, purple "blobs" across the screen on an all-black image (most noticeable in the dark). When content is running, I don't see it nor do I see any red/purple tint in the picture or black areas.
I actually noticed this a few years back and called Pioneer. I sent them a few pictures and they authorized an in-warranty panel replacement via a local a/v repair company. In the end, I never ended up getting the repair done and its never bothered me since.
When I initially bought the 5080HD, I went through 2 units before settling on my third (the first two has cosmetic damage out of the box). All three units had this issue to some degree. I just assumed it was a by-product of the display technology.
BigMacca, how's your tv doing now? Did you spot any pixel misfire?
Sorry for not getting back to you, I've been very busy over the last few days and haven't had much time to play.
With VOL YKNOFSA D left set to 80, I don't have any pixel misfire at all (tested against 1080p red, green, blue and black test patterns) but there is still the slightest hint of red tint on the bottom right hand corner of the screen.
I can live with this however as it can only be noticed when there is no external light source and I always usual have some form of lighting on in the room.
I'll go back and play again when I have more than 5 minutes free.
I'm open to any more suggestions people might have?
I had a bit of time to mess around last night and as suggested, I started to look at VOL RSTP.
Mine was currently set to 34 (by the TV not me) and I went through several steps to take it down to 18.
With VOL RSTP set to 18, I could then raise VOL YKNOFSA up to 90 without bringing any hint of red tint back onto to the screen.
After running a few test slides and an hour of normal viewing I'm happy enough that there are no nasties creeping in.
So current settings are
Panel Hours = 7865
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 113
VOL RSTP = 18 (original value = 034)
VOL XPOFS1 = 085
VOL XPOFS2 = 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D = 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D = 149
VOL YKNOFSA D = 90 (original value = 128)
How low have people been able to take VOL RSTP before it started to introduce issues?
Cheers
Macca
I took RSTP down in steps from 18 a couple of months back and got to 3 i think or there about before it started to make blacks noisy. But the thing is i cant remember if i had played with any other of the voltages first to be honest.
I got myself the service manual the other day for my 500A and the thing that stood out for me was that SUS & OFFSET should never be touched, certainly not raised high to silly numbers.
I had a bit of time to mess around last night and as suggested, I started to look at VOL RSTP.
Mine was currently set to 34 (by the TV not me) and I went through several steps to take it down to 18.
With VOL RSTP set to 18, I could then raise VOL YKNOFSA up to 90 without bringing any hint of red tint back onto to the screen.
After running a few test slides and an hour of normal viewing I'm happy enough that there are no nasties creeping in.
So current settings are
Panel Hours = 7865
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 113
VOL RSTP = 18 (original value = 034)
VOL XPOFS1 = 085
VOL XPOFS2 = 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D = 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D = 149
VOL YKNOFSA D = 90 (original value = 128)
How low have people been able to take VOL RSTP before it started to introduce issues?
Cheers
Macca
Why did you decide to tweak both values instead of just VOL YKNOFSA D? I don't know if anyone knows what each one actually does and if adjusting one is worse then the other. Just curious because it sounds like you managed to get rid of the red tint by just lowering VOL YKNOFSA D and not messing with VOL RSTP before. Now that you have adjusted both, does it yield the same results?
Why did you decide to tweak both values instead of just VOL YKNOFSA D? I don't know if anyone knows what each one actually does and if adjusting one is worse then the other. Just curious because it sounds like you managed to get rid of the red tint by just lowering VOL YKNOFSA D and not messing with VOL RSTP before. Now that you have adjusted both, does it yield the same results?
Hi Mac13,
I'm just playing really to see what effect the settings have.
Lowering VOL RSTP is allowing me to have use a higher value in VOL YKNOFSA D and still get rid of the red tint.
When lowering VOL YKNOFSA D past 60, I did see black crush (and D-Nice warned of pixel misfire) so using both controls may well be a way around this....
I'm just playing really to see what effect the settings have.
Lowering VOL RSTP is allowing me to have use a higher value in VOL YKNOFSA D and still get rid of the red tint.
When lowering VOL YKNOFSA D past 60, I did see black crush (and D-Nice warned of pixel misfire) so using both controls may well be a way around this....
Macca
Thanks for the info! Please keep us up to date on any additional changes you make and how it affects the TV.
On my EURO LX-5090 I see artifacts with the VOL YKNOFSA D as low as 108 .
I first suggested this as a potential fix ages ago, Quickly backtrack because of the artifacts. I''ve not had time to play with the VOL RSTP and see how that interacts with VOL YKNOFSA D.
Remember VOL YKNOFSA D adjusts VOL YKNOFS1 D, VOL YKNOFS3 D and VOL YKNOFS4 D .