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Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 29

post #841 of 1117
4/26/12 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragnarok666 View Post

On my EURO LX-5090 I see artifacts with the VOL YKNOFSA D as low as 108 .

I first suggested this as a potential fix ages ago, Quickly backtrack because of the artifacts. I''ve not had time to play with the VOL RSTP and see how that interacts with VOL YKNOFSA D.

Remember VOL YKNOFSA D adjusts VOL YKNOFS1 D, VOL YKNOFS3 D and VOL YKNOFS4 D .

Yes i remember reading in my service manual that these voltages are interlocked. If possible it's probaly going to be best to adjust them all. Probaly slightly up while leaving YKNOFDA D where it is at 128.
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post #842 of 1117
4/29/12 at 3:44pm
@D-Nice (or anyone who can help):

I understand that you're totally against the idea of doing the full pulse/hour reset because the set will change over time and new problems will appear, but what about just adjusting these 2 settings:

VOL RSTP
VOL YKNOFSA D

Will that lead to problems as you use the set over time (i.e after 100,200 hours..etc) or do they have an instant effect only?

I'm not asking for an explanation for what those settings do, I just want to tweak those to get a picture that looks good to my eyes without worrying about something going wrong in the future.

Any help would be really appreciated, I'm really getting tired of the red tint near the bezels of my 5020 Kuro, I'm 100% sure what I'm seeing is a defect and not normal.
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post #843 of 1117
4/30/12 at 2:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

@D-Nice (or anyone who can help):

I understand that you're totally against the idea of doing the full pulse/hour reset because the set will change over time and new problems will appear, but what about just adjusting these 2 settings:

VOL RSTP
VOL YKNOFSA D

Will that lead to problems as you use the set over time (i.e after 100,200 hours..etc) or do they have an instant effect only?

I'm not asking for an explanation for what those settings do, I just want to tweak those to get a picture that looks good to my eyes without worrying about something going wrong in the future.

Any help would be really appreciated, I'm really getting tired of the red tint near the bezels of my 5020 Kuro, I'm 100% sure what I'm seeing is a defect and not normal.

You know how people have said in the past that there is two kinds of red tint black. One is meant to be defective and the other "normal". Well i cant ever remember anyone saying that the "normal" one had ever been fixed or calibrated out.

Can anyone else remember reading that these 9G Kuro's which possibly had the 2nd kind of red tint fixed through normal means ?
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post #844 of 1117
4/30/12 at 3:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragnarok666 View Post

Remember VOL YKNOFSA D adjusts VOL YKNOFS1 D, VOL YKNOFS3 D and VOL YKNOFS4 D .

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to adjust the above voltages?

I'm happy to have a play and report back if any one has any suggestions?
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post #845 of 1117
4/30/12 at 5:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMacca View Post

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to adjust the above voltages?

I'm happy to have a play and report back if any one has any suggestions?

Have you tried leaving YKNOFSA D alone and try moving the others while displaying patterns.
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post #846 of 1117
4/30/12 at 5:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Have you tried leaving YKNOFSA D alone and try moving the others while displaying patterns.

No not yet - That's why I'm asking if anyone has any suggestions about how to adjust the other voltages.

It's far easier to do this kind of thing with a plan in mind
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post #847 of 1117
4/30/12 at 6:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMacca View Post

No not yet - That's why I'm asking if anyone has any suggestions about how to adjust the other voltages.

It's far easier to do this kind of thing with a plan in mind

Thats true... When i read the service manual i get the impression that the YKNOFSA D is intertwined with the others like you know. And if playing with YKNOFSA D is clearing red tint but introducing artefacts in the form of sparklies then leave at 128 and experiment. Most problems come from under voltage apart from SUS & OFFSET.
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post #848 of 1117
4/30/12 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post


Thats true... When i read the service manual i get the impression that the YKNOFSA D is intertwined with the others like you know. And if playing with YKNOFSA D is clearing red tint but introducing artefacts in the form of sparklies then leave at 128 and experiment. Most problems come from under voltage apart from SUS & OFFSET.

When i said before that most problems come from under voltage apart from SUS & OFFSET i meant to mention that these two shouldnt really be raised over the factory numbers according to service manual for long periods of time as they are a sure fire way to wear down your panel quickly or even break it altogether as these are the plasma driving voltages.
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post #849 of 1117
4/30/12 at 10:39pm
Has anyone seen any of these purple sparkle issues while messing around in these settings? I have never changed any setting except for having tv calibrated by a ISF professional.

http://youtu.be/JqQXLD8sinI
http://youtu.be/43VJTtgpgbk
http://youtu.be/8BFulOCTW18
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post #850 of 1117
5/4/12 at 1:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

Has anyone seen any of these purple sparkle issues while messing around in these settings? I have never changed any setting except for having tv calibrated by a ISF professional.

http://youtu.be/JqQXLD8sinI
http://youtu.be/43VJTtgpgbk
http://youtu.be/8BFulOCTW18

That is certainly weird i can't ever remember anyone mention sparkles without a panel reset or playing about with voltages.

Only one i perhaps remember was someone with a first gen Kuro who maybe mentioned on forums somewhere. And i think his panel turned out to be faulty.

Is yours the last generation Pioneer ?
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post #851 of 1117
5/4/12 at 1:05am
It's a 151FD manufactured in 2008. It has been fine up until a couple months ago. I bought it in July 2008.
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post #852 of 1117
5/4/12 at 2:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

It's a 151FD manufactured in 2008. It has been fine up until a couple months ago. I bought it in July 2008.

Have you still got warranty on your panel ?.

According to my service manual for my UK 500A there is probaly a board or boards needing replaced.
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post #853 of 1117
5/4/12 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

Has anyone seen any of these purple sparkle issues while messing around in these settings? I have never changed any setting except for having tv calibrated by a ISF professional.

http://youtu.be/JqQXLD8sinI
http://youtu.be/43VJTtgpgbk
http://youtu.be/8BFulOCTW18

if memory serves me correct, purple sparkles mean that the panel voltage is too low and cause a pixel misfire. if you didnt mess with the voltages in the SM, then as stu03 mentions, maybe you have a board that is failing. it could be something as simple as the power supply too that might be getting weak and cant provide the proper voltage necessary.
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post #854 of 1117
5/4/12 at 7:30pm
Hello All,
New to the forum, but I have been monitoring this thread for quite a while. I had a PRO-111FD in the past and currently own a PRO-101FD. I have had red tint creep up on my PRO-101 starting from the lower right corner. It has progressively gotten worse. Since I was not able to have D-Nice calibrate the TV, it was calibrated twice by Chad B. Chad also confirmed that he had seen a red tint issue before. I myself have also adjusted the voltages in the past without pulse reset, and realized this will never work. Being into electronics, I am just as inquisitive as the rest of you have been. With respect to D-Nice and his extensive knowledge of these sets, I agree that the voltages should be left alone. It might show improvement for the short term, but with long term damaging effects. Having been in contact with Pioneer for a while to work out a solution, my thought is that the main board controlling the voltages is the underlying problem and altering the voltages can never really be a complete fix. If you have a bad board, the voltages can never really be corrected and the problem will never truly be solved. Pioneer has agreed to replace the main board on my PRO-101FD through a repair facility under warranty. I will write again after the repair is completed to let everyone know if this fixes the problem. Hope this will help everyone to solve this issue. Glad to be part of this forum.
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post #855 of 1117
5/4/12 at 7:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1forsnow View Post

if memory serves me correct, purple sparkles mean that the panel voltage is too low and cause a pixel misfire. if you didnt mess with the voltages in the SM, then as stu03 mentions, maybe you have a board that is failing. it could be something as simple as the power supply too that might be getting weak and cant provide the proper voltage necessary.


I had a service guy come over and look at the set. he went into the service menu and said there are no errors reported by the set and that the pixels are just slow to respond and "nothing is wrong"
If a board was going bad would it show errors in the service menu?
I will call Pioneer again Monday and tell them I am not happy with the conclusion of their recommended service call.

D-Nice any ideas?
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post #856 of 1117
5/5/12 at 12:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCElite View Post

Hello All,
New to the forum, but I have been monitoring this thread for quite a while. I had a PRO-111FD in the past and currently own a PRO-101FD. I have had red tint creep up on my PRO-101 starting from the lower right corner. It has progressively gotten worse. Since I was not able to have D-Nice calibrate the TV, it was calibrated twice by Chad B. Chad also confirmed that he had seen a red tint issue before. I myself have also adjusted the voltages in the past without pulse reset, and realized this will never work. Being into electronics, I am just as inquisitive as the rest of you have been. With respect to D-Nice and his extensive knowledge of these sets, I agree that the voltages should be left alone. It might show improvement for the short term, but with long term damaging effects. Having been in contact with Pioneer for a while to work out a solution, my thought is that the main board controlling the voltages is the underlying problem and altering the voltages can never really be a complete fix. If you have a bad board, the voltages can never really be corrected and the problem will never truly be solved. Pioneer has agreed to replace the main board on my PRO-101FD through a repair facility under warranty. I will write again after the repair is completed to let everyone know if this fixes the problem. Hope this will help everyone to solve this issue. Glad to be part of this forum.

Hello.

I could be wrong here so someone please tell me if i am - but i am sure there are people who have had the main board replaced to fix this issue and it did nothing to remedy the red black. I think D-Nice has said in the past that the afflicted panels were set up wrong at the factory with regard to voltages, and there is no reason not to believe that. And what is true is there are no true Pioneer engineers left for anyone to speak with. And we all know how wrong (some) of the "field techs" have been in the past with regard to this voltage issue.

Regards.
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post #857 of 1117
5/6/12 at 12:03am
And even if the main board/boards was the problem and it was replaced by Pioneer under warranty. And then by sheer luck if it fixed the tint which i doubt. Well the panel would still need to be pulse reset regardless and then voltages adjusted like everyone else who has reset their plasma.
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post #858 of 1117
5/6/12 at 12:26pm
has anybody tried this on a 151FD? are the service menu items the same?

my set has 11,600 hours on it. it has had the red tint over the whole screen since @ 5,000 hours. It has got to the point where if there is not bright lighting in the room, the red is visible on channel changes, black changes to commercials, or just switching to an unused input.

I have tried to get Pioneer to acknowledge there is a problem for over a year, sending them pictures, but can only get them to allow a service call. The catch is I would have to transport the set over 45 miles and leave it for up to 4 weeks. Some warranty service .........

its an October 2008 build

thanks
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post #859 of 1117
5/8/12 at 2:17am
I got to watch as a service tech worked on a friend of mines 111fd. His set was about as red as mine, except at the bottom right where it was much worse. As his set is now out of warranty, but he had a case number for the issue previously, Pioneer paid for the service call.

The tech took several pictures of the set with blank inputs, and with black and near black patterns displayed. He then called Pioneer to consult with his contact. He then entered the service menu and made one adjustment to VOL YKNOFSA D after noting all the original settings. First he moved the value from 128 to 133, if anything the red got worse. Next he moved it down to 120 which improved the red tint but did not totally eliminate it. He moved it down several more times until he settled on a value of 94 where most of the red tint was gone, and the screen was uniform once again, the bottom right was the same as the rest of the screen.

He unplugged the set, waited about a minute and started the set again. he ran a series of test pattens once again, then checked with a blu-ray. All seemed markedly improved, the red was still there, but barely noticeable, you really had to look for it. The tech went back to using test patterns, went though RGB and gray 5 -100 and all seemed good. He then went to near black fields, at 1% and 2% there were red artifacts (looked like what was last viewed remaining on the screen)that would eventually clear up within 5 seconds, at 3% the same, but it cleared up with in 2 seconds. At 4% to 10% all was perfect. None of this could be seen watching video content.

Before finishing the tech watched a few different very bright scenes from a blu-ray. He then gave my buddy a choice, keep what he had done, or put the VOL YKNOFSA D back to its original value and wait for Pioneer to reply with a solution. He had it put back but did copy the VOL YKNOFSA D setting value the tech used.

I hope this is a sign Pioneer is working on a fix. The difference I saw with just the one change was night and day.

I will try to talk to Pioneer again tomorrow, and see if they are aware of this service call, and what is being done.
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post #860 of 1117
5/8/12 at 5:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509 View Post

I got to watch as a service tech worked on a friend of mines 111fd. His set was about as red as mine, except at the bottom right where it was much worse. As his set is now out of warranty, but he had a case number for the issue previously, Pioneer paid for the service call.

The tech took several pictures of the set with blank inputs, and with black and near black patterns displayed. He then called Pioneer to consult with his contact. He then entered the service menu and made one adjustment to VOL YKNOFSA D after noting all the original settings. First he moved the value from 128 to 133, if anything the red got worse. Next he moved it down to 120 which improved the red tint but did not totally eliminate it. He moved it down several more times until he settled on a value of 94 where most of the red tint was gone, and the screen was uniform once again, the bottom right was the same as the rest of the screen.

He unplugged the set, waited about a minute and started the set again. he ran a series of test pattens once again, then checked with a blu-ray. All seemed markedly improved, the red was still there, but barely noticeable, you really had to look for it. The tech went back to using test patterns, went though RGB and gray 5 -100 and all seemed good. He then went to near black fields, at 1% and 2% there were red artifacts (looked like what was last viewed remaining on the screen)that would eventually clear up within 5 seconds, at 3% the same, but it cleared up with in 2 seconds. At 4% to 10% all was perfect. None of this could be seen watching video content.

Before finishing the tech watched a few different very bright scenes from a blu-ray. He then gave my buddy a choice, keep what he had done, or put the VOL YKNOFSA D back to its original value and wait for Pioneer to reply with a solution. He had it put back but did copy the VOL YKNOFSA D setting value the tech used.

I hope this is a sign Pioneer is working on a fix. The difference I saw with just the one change was night and day.

I will try to talk to Pioneer again tomorrow, and see if they are aware of this service call, and what is being done.

Wow this could be very good news.
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post #861 of 1117
5/8/12 at 8:06am
Thanks a LOT for the info vega509, if a service tech actually changed those voltage settings it means that doing this is At least pretty safe and ain't That dangerous.

Now if only I get up off my lazy ass and install my controlcal to try and do this, must take some pictures when I do that because my set does NOT look normal, bought the Kuro to see deep blacks, not that red crap lurking near the bezel and starting to spread across the screen!
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post #862 of 1117
5/8/12 at 8:27am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

bought the kuro to see deep blacks, not that red crap lurking near the bezel and starting to spread across the screen!

+1
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post #863 of 1117
5/10/12 at 12:12pm
Has anybody who did NOT reset their set, but only adjusted voltages, tried undoing the changes? Speaking with my buddy last night, he claims his set is noticeably better than it was before the service call. The change the tech made was undone before he left, so VOL YKNOFSA D was at 94 for about an hour.

It may be the aging algorithm reacted to the change, and some other adjustments were automatically made during this time.
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post #864 of 1117
5/10/12 at 12:33pm
Is he 100% sure that the tech changed the setting back to 128 before leaving? Maybe it didn't get saved or something?

If changing the voltage settings for a specific amount of time will actually remedy this issue, that would be way too awesome lol.

About accessing those voltage settings, do I just have to access the service menu (can do that through controlcal) and then navigate to those voltage data and change the values using the remote or will it have to be done via commands on the PC?
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post #865 of 1117
5/10/12 at 12:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Is he 100% sure that the tech changed the setting back to 128 before leaving? Maybe it didn't get saved or something?

If changing the voltage settings for a specific amount of time will actually remedy this issue, that would be way too awesome lol.

About accessing those voltage settings, do I just have to access the service menu (can do that through controlcal) and then navigate to those voltage data and change the values using the remote or will it have to be done via commands on the PC?

I'm watched as the VOL YKNOFSA D was put back to 128.

The tech has a remote to access the service menu. If you have a programmable remote, you can get the pronto code and put it into the remote. There is information available in one of the 9G Kuro threads on this board.
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post #866 of 1117
5/10/12 at 2:00pm
I found the thread to program a remote using a pronto code ........

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21636548
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post #867 of 1117
5/10/12 at 8:56pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509 View Post

I found the thread to program a remote using a pronto code ........

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21636548

No clue what this is or what pronto codes are...I have a harmony remote so maybe this would be beneficial to me. Care to explain or elaborate?
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post #868 of 1117
5/10/12 at 9:18pm
If you have a Harmony 300 you are in luck, one of the members set up an account so you can download the Factory button to the remote.

If you have a remote that you can program from your pc (not a web interface), the pronto code is what you need to input to create a Factory button.

If you know someone who has a Harmony 300, or remote already programmed with the pronto code, you can use that to teach your remote. A USB-UIRT can also send the code to the set, or to the learning remote.
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post #869 of 1117
5/11/12 at 12:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Is he 100% sure that the tech changed the setting back to 128 before leaving? Maybe it didn't get saved or something?

If changing the voltage settings for a specific amount of time will actually remedy this issue, that would be way too awesome lol.

About accessing those voltage settings, do I just have to access the service menu (can do that through controlcal) and then navigate to those voltage data and change the values using the remote or will it have to be done via commands on the PC?

The changes made to voltage are in real time. They don't need to be saved. And will still be there even if the plug is pulled out of the wall
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post #870 of 1117
5/11/12 at 6:54am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509 View Post

If you have a Harmony 300 you are in luck, one of the members set up an account so you can download the Factory button to the remote.

If you have a remote that you can program from your pc (not a web interface), the pronto code is what you need to input to create a Factory button.

If you know someone who has a Harmony 300, or remote already programmed with the pronto code, you can use that to teach your remote. A USB-UIRT can also send the code to the set, or to the learning remote.

Oh that whole pronto code is for one button and this button just gets you into the factor menu? No need to program any other buttons?

On another note, I have a Harmony One that I program using the Harmony program.
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