Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 31

hi guys,i don't have still done the reset on my kuro 6090.so you suggest me to only adjust VOL YNOFS1 D, VOL YNOFS3 D, and VOL YNOFS4 D(with the same spacing between them)? thanks in advance for your help!

Okay so my friends 5020 has the red tint issue. It's really not that bad and only really visible on the top right corner by the bezel. If he has any light on at all in the living room, it's impossible to see. He is considering changing some of the values listed by mascior but doesn't have a service remote or control cal. What's the easiest option to get into the service menu? Where would he purchase a service remote? I might even purchase one if I need it down the road (I haven't noticed it on my 6020 and I am not going to look for it ). Thanks in advance!

I just got the camera from my cousin, hopefully I'll be able to take some decent before/after pictures with it. I'll try to do the adjustments either tonight or tomorrow if I got enough time to sit and tweak the thing (I'm pretty OCD about these stuff, I'm sure it'll drive me crazy and take a Lot of time lol).

So about the adjustments, we need a good & simple workflow to show how to go about adjusting the 3 voltage settings (VOL YKNOFS1 D, VOL YKNOFS3 D & VOL YKNOFS4 D) to fix the red tint issue and testing methods to make sure everything is functioning properly, here's what I got so far:

1- Access service menu (via service remote or ControlCal+serial cable)
2- Go the voltage values page (you can go there via the remote by pressing: ENTER, MUTE,ENTER - down four pages on the pad then ENTER)
3- Adjust VOL YKNOFS1 D (The voltage range for the 60" panels are 054 to 107 and 121 to 164 for all the 50" panels.)
4- Power cycle (unplug set for 30 seconds) so the changes apply
5- Testing method to make sure VOL YKNOFS1 D has been set properly:
a) Watch a movie with black bars (e.g 2.35:1) for around an hour
b) Switch to a 16:9 image and check for artifacts where the black bars were, if VOL YKNOFS1 D value was set:
- Too high > You'll see white sparkles
- Too low > Pixels will misfire and you'll see purple sparkles
6- Once you no longer see any artifacts, start adjusting VOL YKNOFS3 D & VOL YKNOFS4 D, they need to be adjusted together so they have the same distance in value set from the factory, so e.g you added +5 to VOL YKNOFS3 D, you'll need to do the same and add +5 to VOL YKNOFS4 D too, same thing applies when decreasing values as well.
7- Testing method to make sure VOL YKNOFS3 D & VOL YKNOFS4 D have been adjusted properly:
??


I'm pretty much stuck there (btw I didn't come up those, I just copy pasted what mascior, stu and other members mentioned in the last couple of pages).

A few things so I'd understand this better:

- What are the testing methods to make sure VOL YKNOFS3 D & VOL YKNOFS4 D adjusted values are functioning properly?
- Which settings would actually effect the red tint? Do all of them change it to some extent or is VOL YKNOFS1 D mainly responsible for that?
- Is it more common to increase the values to fix the red tint issues compared to decreasing them?
- Is there a faster testing method to adjust VOL YKNOFS1 D properly or at least give you a hint that you're going in the right direction? Watching an hour of black bar movie after each setting change sounds very time consuming.

Any help would be appreciated. I've got the DVE:HD Basics blu-ray calibration disc if I can make any use of its patterns to test the voltage tweaks.

Ok.

Got my pio part this morning that i have been waiting on so patiently for three and a half weeks lol. :-)

Will be having some cautious entertainment to myself later on accessing the menus along side my service manual. And specifically with these voltages - when i have got all peace and quiet to myself.

I am unsure whether though to perform a second pulse reset ?... Wouldn't dream of touching the hours a 2nd time. ;-)

My reasoning being to at least have it started all again from the beginning as i can now adjust voltage at will.

Anyone have any advice ?...

Thanks

I wasn't able to take any decent pictures of the set, probably because I didn't know how to set the canon properly to take pictures in the dark.

Anyway, I didn't make any changes yet, but I got all the voltage values (thanks for the instructions Stu!) and they seem odd, higher than what I've seen most mention (YKNOFS4 @ 172!) and the VOL RST P was way too low, here's the entire thing:

Kuro model: 9G 5020FD upgraded to e-lite via the board swap mod, build date IIRC is July or August 2008

VOL SUS 128
VOL OFFSET 140
VOL RST P 002
VOL XPOFS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 047

VOL YKNOFS1 D 143
VOL YKNOFS3 D 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D 172
VOL YKNOFSA D 128

RESET1ST_KSB 128
RESET2ND_KSB 128
YSTL_1SF_KSB 128
YSTL_1SF_HZ 128
XSUS_1ST_B 128
YSUS_2ND_B 128
XSUS_3RD_B 128
YSUS_B 128
XSUS_B 128
YSTL_KSB 128
YSTL_HZ 128
YSTL_2SF_KSB 128
YSTL_2SF_HZ 128
YSTL_FMR_KSB 128
SCAN ADRS ADJ. 128
SUS FREQ MODE1

Panel hours is close to 10,000 hours!!! (9640 to be specific)

Do you guys think I'll be forced to do the pulse/hour reset? Any tips about whether I should start by decreasing the values or increasing 'em?

Thanks!

EDIT:
I haven't done the pulse/hour reset, so would it actually be better to just adjust VOL YNOFSA D instead of tweaking the 3 other values that are connected to it (YNOFS1, 3 & 4), I thought VOL YNOFSA D should be left alone at default 128 value at all times

Please guys a reply/confirmation would be very much appreciated, don't want to screw something up.

After trying mascoir's settings i must say it is progress. On moving/ real life images pink noise is all but gone. White noise on darker images is vastly improved but still slightly there on my 500. But i really have to look for it now :-)

Pink noise is there on combi pattern 7... and on pattern mask 23.

But a huge improvment on real time viewing... Which is all important.

Was surprised to see that my overall panel hrs were 10426. Which means my reset was done around 9600 hours. I was around 1500 too many hours out on my original estimation. Lol...

Will keep working.

It seems the defects manifest close to 10k hours. I'm only around 2k...could be rough times ahead! Come on, OLED!

After scrutinizing my black. In the internal all black pattern in a blacked out room i noticed a very subtle uniform red tint sat directly behind the black if you know what i mean. This is my screen though - might be ok on others. I took the fs1 3&4 back to reset default, which made black uniform again. All the others also still at reset default apart from YKNOFSA D. Took that down to 110 eventually and that has helped a lot with both types of sparkles on my panel - while also keeping shadow detail at normal levels...

I've had the defect for 5000 hours!, i'm just over 10000 now.

many members have had it as early as 3000.

Indeed, I've had the issue since around 4000 hours

@ Big Macca

Did you reset your pulse meters? mine still sucks, no amount of playing in the service menu fixes the blacks without artifacts even considering whats recently come to light too thanks to Mascior.

I reckon the tint came on mine at around the 2000 hour mark.

Big Macca, how is your panel now mate? I know you originally only adjustED YKNOFSA D, but then started experimenting. How are things now? The reason in ask is that I have the 5090H as well.

Cheers.
Mike

Exactly the same as mine, even if I reset the values back to default before I started experimenting I still have artifacts, although their only noticeable on dark green scenes. In the end I've just thought sod it I'd rather have the blacks back. I tried Mascior advice to no avail too.

I've been thinking about the reset. Has anyone performed it and returned their values back to their original setting. Guessing the tint is still there? Just thinking about if the values stay at their current value it might save the panel from faulting later in its life.

If I just adjust the VOL YKNOFSA D value (didn't do the panel reset), what kind of patterns should I check for issues (artifacts, pixel misfiring..etc)? I don't know how to use the internal test patterns, but I do have the DVE BD calibration disc if that would help.

Do you know how to find the patterns in the service menus ?.

I've had a look at my DVE blu disk for you and i can't find anything really that is properly suitable. Apart from maybe the 75% Bars w/Gray Reference pattern in the (basic video setup patterns). But the disk won't let me switch back and forth quick enough from the previous pattern to catch any pixel misfire as it clears very quickly. You could try the 1080P demo stuff for the white ish sparkles on darker backgrounds, although i dont think that would apply to you yet. The mix of 24frame video and graphics - really shows off the amazing contrast of our kuros anyway :-)

Best to look at lighter moving images in the meantime...

Hello mate,

I've not reset the Pulse or Hour meters, just played with a few voltages



Hi Mike,

Things seem to be ok at the moment, I put YKNOFSA D back to it's default and adjusted the 3 voltages it controls

No I don't, are those hard to navigate to and use (which ones I should focus on btw)? Are they mentioned in the service manual?

Hi

When you are in factory mode press ENTER, MUTE, ENTER, Down 4 pages on remote and you will see PANEL - 1 ADJ. Press down again 4 pages and that will take you to the RASTER MASK SETUP. Then each press down takes you to the others. (press (+) enter) and you will see MASK OFF. Press down to start the patterns and down again to change to the next or up to skip to the last of whatever type of pattern you want to access. Don't press right or left as that changes the voltage of the patterns. You always want 60VS displayed. On the supplied remote pressing the Home menu button changes the patterns to color space 2 and color temp low i think. You might notice a difference in the sparkles noise - but stick to the default factory to begin with. Always make sure it displays MASK OFF before exiting the menus. The mute button takes you back through the menus and layers if you keep pressing. If you have changed voltage switch off and back on.

With my European (UK) 500, i have managed to clear 100% white noise with these numbers on any drive mode and brightness setting. Pink noise still around 98% cleared with these voltages. My screen has the pulse and hour reset and has since 900 hours roughly.

VOL SUS 128
VOL OFFSET 113

RSTP 018 -- 55

XPOFS1 85
XPOFS2 63

YKNOFS1D 138 -- 135
YKNOFS3 D 128 -- 124
YKNOFS4 D 149 -- 157

YKNOFSA D 128 -- 87

No tint black is still black and shadow seems fine

Hi,
i don't have the red tint, but i have pink pixels that flashes on a white picture. My kuro model is 5090H ( 9G EU model)

i have also notice that the blacks is not as deep as before. i was thinking of reset the hours and might changing the voltage.

Any advice for changing which controls such as VOL SUS, VOL RTF P etc? some controls i should not tweak at all?

Thanks!

Hi,

i just want to check that my kuro is getting connection to the 232 cable i just bought.

what is the commands to see how many hours the panel has? That would be a easy task to just check that the cables works!

QS3

Has pioneer said anything about this?

Hyperterminal is the simplest way to send commands to TV.

I prefer KuroEdit.


Edited by GF21 - 6/23/12 at 4:43am

You can also navigate with RC, but not for activating and editing of ISF-Mode.
Edited by GF21 - 6/22/12 at 12:06pm

i have been using hyperterminal.

where can i download KuroEdit? can it also unlock the ISF modes?

I need this program!