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Anarchy/Dayton TM build - Page 6

post #151 of 352
Thread Starter 
Here is one tint-coat.




This shows how weak I mixed it.

post #152 of 352
Only PI can get away with spraying finish and shoveling topsoil in the same day....
post #153 of 352
These look really good, but I don't see the difference with the tint. In the howitzer build it was night and day. Is it just my monitor.
post #154 of 352
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Pete! Yeah, the joys of home-ownership...

TC, the difference is pretty subtle so far. I ran out of time today, so I'll resume tinting tomorrow.
post #155 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Only PI can get away with spraying finish and shoveling topsoil in the same day....

When I saw those picture, I was in awe. Not only is PI an excellent builder, but he is always well prepared.

In one post we see he has:
  • a vacuum attachment for his sander (even though he is outside),
  • custom stands so he can spray all the cabinet sides at the same time,
  • the new 'frog' tape to keep the edges sharp,
  • a spray mask to protect himself, and
  • a load of dirt to bury the evidence if he messes up.

BTW, my wife wants to see a picture of what you are doing with the soil. Please forgive her, some people don't understand how to prioritize...
post #156 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

a load of dirt to bury the evidence if he messes up.

LOL.........I knew he couldn't possibly be perfect
post #157 of 352
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

[*]a load of dirt to bury the evidence if he messes up. [/list]
BTW, my wife wants to see a picture of what you are doing with the soil. Please forgive her, some people don't understand how to prioritize...

Mistakes happen. What matters is how well you bury the evidence. Thanks for the great laugh!

The topsoil is just filling up some monster-sized cracks in the back yard. The soil here is black clay and it expands and shrinks a lot with moisture changes. Last summer's drought had watering restrictions imposed on us. Mrs. Interest did all the landscaping here herself while I was working out of town. So any shots you see of the plants around the house--that was her work.


After two tint coats, I think I don't like the brown on the Bubinga. Rather than wake it up, it seems to put it to sleep. It just isn't working for me.

post #158 of 352
You have very high standards there PI, I think they look great.

James
post #159 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam View Post

You have very high standards there PI, I think they look great.

+1

Now I'm seeing the tinting a little more. I thought you were going to try and match the Howitzers. I think these look great, but the reddish tint on the Howitzers did have a more striking effect. These look more refined and mature.
post #160 of 352
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your replies, guys. You got me to reconsider. I almost pulled the plug too soon on the color. For one thing, I need to get the color depth I am after and for another, I need to see them polished. Otherwise, I am just being too hasty and not giving them a fair chance.

So, here's the third tint coat. The Brown Mahogany has some red in it, but I added three drops of Red Mahogany to the quart mix, to tip it just a little more toward red.




I don't think I want them any darker.
post #161 of 352
Oh ya There it is
post #162 of 352
With a thick, well polished gloss, they will be magic. It is amazing what a good gloss will do to pretty much anything.

JSS
post #163 of 352
Thread Starter 
After one clear coat...






...using this.

post #164 of 352
I want to be you so bad

You should take some of your speakers and subs to Lone Star Audio Fest and show all those poser's how it's done!
post #165 of 352
Thread Starter 
MJAudio--LOL! Very funny, my friend!

Guys, I forgot to mention that, in order to keep dust, pollen and other bits of nature out of my finish, I run them into the house right after I spray. After they are dry to the touch, I let them bake in the sun outdoors.
post #166 of 352
I really liked the brown bias in your pic after the second coat. The color tint is all down to personal preference tho, because they look awesome in all your shots.

I think someone asked previously about how you were going to address the white ports.... i have to say, i thought the white looked great as-is. Never would have expected that

Tuned in to see what your final choice is on that front.
post #167 of 352
WOW!! Look at the depth that added!
post #168 of 352
Man those look good.!

PI, I was going to use that minwax polyurethane over some black (ebony) stain on some speakers I'm working on. It's oil based though? Is that a problem you think?
post #169 of 352
I'm in dallas as well ... and am in the process of building ER18 MTM floorstander. I would like to use hard wood baffle like what you have (though i'll stain it either walnut or cherry)...Where did you buy them? I don't remember seeing ashwood at HD or lowes.

Thanks!
post #170 of 352
Thread Starter 
Thanks, guys.

TC--I would use a barrier coat of De-Waxed Blonde Shellac over the oil-based stain, just to be safe.

cacophonix--I picked up the rough-hewn Ash at G&S in Terrell a while back (far east Dallas area suburb). Call them first for pricing and availability.
post #171 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

TC--I would use a barrier coat of De-Waxed Blonde Shellac over the oil-based stain, just to be safe.

tuxedocivic, I am using Zinsser SealCoat on a project right now. It is de-waxed shellac.
post #172 of 352
Thanks guys.

So I can just give it a couple coats of that and then it's safe to use with waterbase? Does it change the look at all? Perhpas I could just stop with the Shellac? Thanks again.
post #173 of 352
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

So I can just give it a couple coats of that and then it's safe to use with waterbase? Does it change the look at all? Perhpas I could just stop with the Shellac?

As desertdome said, Zinsser SealCoat is fine. It won't change the look enough to make much of a difference--because it is blonde (meaning it won't add much color). The Poly is a more durable finish than Shellac. I like to give Shellac overnight, before coating over it with Poly.
post #174 of 352
Once polished these will look great. After you finish, I need a good pic of the cross grain figure on the baffles. I bet it will be nice. My TV Flankers will be an ebony stain/tint, to match the black TV, and will be gloss, so I will be doing much the same thing as you are.

PI, we need a quick class on how to avoid 'tiger stripes' with tint coats....if you have the time.....


JSS
post #175 of 352
Being an automotive painter by trade. Tiger striping has a lot to do with gun and patter setup. You pater has to be very even and not heavy on either end (ie. on the outside or the middle ). The. It's a matter of keeping an even overlap pattern and even texture. If you get a little bit of striping you can lay a drop coat right away on a 45 degree angle or even a cross pattern at 90 degrees sometimes. All in the end it's a ton of practice. A little tip is don't hold you gun too close and get a good smooth trigger action going. I was alway taught to move like a robot but along the way you will create you own style of spraying. Good luck.
post #176 of 352
some interesting finishing conversation going on.

i was considering trying to spray my next project instead of wiping on shellac. weren't you using a cheap harbor freight gun PI? i though i remember you being somewhat unhappy with it when you first tried it. am i mistaken? are you still using that gun?

curious to hear from Jstslamd on some good gun recommendations and how much to expect to spend on one.

also would like to hear what cfm is 'enough' for spraying finishes. i have a big craftsman compressor now but it pops my 15amp breaker every time i turn it on i'm too cheap to have a contractor add a 20amp circuit and wiring for my garage so i'm thinking of downgrading (craftsman takes up too much space anyway).
post #177 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowpolyjoe View Post


curious to hear from Jstslamd on some good gun recommendations and how much to expect to spend on one.

I don't have a ton of experience with spray equipment, but I would say enough to get me in trouble...As for your question about how much you can expect to spend; How much do you have? You can go really crazy if your budget allows and if you plan to do a lot of spraying. Your compressor and drying system will play a huge roll in the guns and finishes that you can use. You can spend over a thousand dollars for just a gun if you really want to. But you would still get crappy results if the rest of your equipment sucks.

Personally, for the hardcore DIY'er I would think that a turbine system would probably be the best choice. They are small systems that can provide amazing results. And you don't need to spend any money for a compressor, air drier systems, hoses, ect. I'm a huge fan of the Fuji units, see the link below. They will spray just about anything provided you use the right tip for the material you want to spray. I personally like the mini-mite 4 (or any unit with a four stage turbine).

If you already have a kick *ss compressor set up, my recommendation might be different...

http://www.fujispray.com/
post #178 of 352
Thread Starter 
Max--jstslamd is a finishing pro and can give better advice than I can. Photos would be extra helpful.

One comment I could make is that some guns produce a hard edge (meaning the material is evenly distributed along the fan-spray) and some produce a soft edge (meaning it feathers out toward the edges). A soft edge gun is easier to overlap for a beginner.

Another comment is that by mixing the tint weak enough to require three coats, you get plenty of opportunity to even things out as needed--just watch out for drips and runs. An added benefit of a weak tint mix is you can darken your project a little at a time, until you get the degree of color you want.

jayHRC51 had good advice. If you go turbine, stick with a 4-stage. Something like this. Anything less than 4-stage will likely disappoint.






Joe--I still have the Harbor Freight gun. It's not awful, but I have others I like more, so I don't use the HF gun much, but I do use it. As for the compressor, if it weren't for the floor-space issue, I'd say check and see if your compressor can be converted to 220v and get a rough estimate on getting an outlet wired for it.

As far as SCFM requirements go, a Conventional Gun uses higher pressure and less SCFM than an HVLP. Also, an LVLP gun (Low Volume, Low Pressure) uses less SCFM. There's also a Reduced Pressure conventional gun, which uses less SCFM than a typical HVLP gun.

All that to say that nearly any non-HVLP gun will use less SCFM and allow for a smaller compressor. As an aside for anyone who is less concerned about floor space, but saving money is an issue--you can use a "T" and combine the outputs of two or more smaller compressors, so their SCFM adds up. This is practical if you have enough circuits (outlets) in your garage for them, because the smaller ones often come up on Craig's List for pretty cheap.

Two websites that have great info on spray guns are WoodSprayGuns and SprayGunWorld. I haven't ordered from either, but they have a lot of good info on finishing equipment.

I hope this was helpful.
post #179 of 352
If your looking for a cheap gun setup that isn't going to break on you after your first use devilbiss sells a beginner gun set with a primer/topcoat/mini gun set that they call their startingline lineup. By no means are these top of the line guns but just a price that someone who is trying to get into spraying can swallow. I personally am partial to a company by the name of anest iwata. I has used their guns for about the last 10 years and love every one that I've had. I just recently bought one of their new clearcoat guns for just under 700 bucks (msrp was 999 but was quickly reduced due to not being affordable in comparison to other guns). I also have 3 more guns I use by a company named Sata. Great quality guns. They spray very nice but they do spray a little different than the iwata's in terms of texture. In my field their are many different things that you need you spray guns to have to determine how "good" a spray gun is. ie. how does it atomizes and distribute metallics or how much material does it pump through with also be efficient ( gun to panel transfer efficiency. Basically how much material comes out of the gun and lands on the panel rather than blow away in the air) how even of a pattern does it have,how big is the pattern among a ton of other things.

If I were going to recommend a direction for someone looking into spray guns to go in. I'd say look on Craigslist or eBay and see if anyone is selling any nice guns for cheap for one reason or another. Also you could look into beginner set but may grow out of them quickly once you find it's flaws and yearn for a higher quality gun. I would tend to stay with either iwata,devilbiss,or Sata jet. These are all high quality guns. Something else about devilbiss that may interest someone looking for an all in one gun. Devilbiss sells two guns the "plus" and the "gti" an I believe that they come with a few different size tips so that you can choose the right tip for the material your trying to shoot.

Well now that I'm done babbling. I hope I've helped out more that just confused everyone. If you need any more advise. Pm me.

Oh and also. I personally do small side jobs in my garage with a 20 gallon ingersol rand compressor (although it's too small for me) that gets small jobs done. Just keep an eye on your air pressure. Also to keep your air dry any automotive paint supply store can sell you and inline moisture filter for less than 5 bucks and is worth every penny. Nothing like ruining a whole paint job cause of one drop of water.
post #180 of 352
Great info. Thanks guys.

That fuji stuff looks sweet. Might be a little over my budget tho.

I'm planning another low budget build next. If I try a cheap HF gun will that give me a reasonable indication of what it's like to spray a finish or is it night and day between the good and cheap guns?
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