Anarchy/Dayton TM build - Page 7

Most of my work is with HF guns, and it usually requires more grits and compounding to get right, to get past the orange peel the lower quality guns spray, as well as burning through more material as there is more overspray with lesser guns.

That being said, I do OK with the cheap stuff, and don't spray so often as to offset the high price of a quality gun. I simply don't spray very often or burn through much material (usually less than a gallon or two per year), and can use the leftover time sanding/polishing, and laying down more coats.

If you are spending over $500-$1000 on simply gallons upon gallons of primers/fillers/effects/finishes, then you would have use for a more efficient gun(s) that can lay down a near flawless primer/build/grainfill, color, effect, or gloss coat.

JSS

That devil boss kit I was talking about is on eBay for 160 bucks for 3 guns ( primer topcoat and touch up gun) w/regulators. And they are much better quality than the HF guns.

This is the best thread In a while. Thanks everyone for the great questions and answer.

Haha I didn't even mean to do that but now that I see that it's pretty funny. Devilbiss is what I meant.

This is all true and it is ok to regulate at the gun but it's is better to regulate at the at the compressor and run no regulator at the gun.

I'll give you a quick break down and example of how I do things.

I dial my compressor regulator about 3-4 lbs high and used the cheater valve on the gun just completely dial it in. The reason regulators at the gun can be a negative factor is that it starves the gun for air volume. The pressure is there but can quickly run out of volume. So leaving that pathway of air as open as possible is best.

Another cheap improvement is switching all of your fittings and couplings to HVLP fittings. This will improve how the gun atomizes and transfers the material rather than just blowing it out at high pressure and into the air. For instance I painted a fender for a friend of mine last weekend that I thought came out a bit pealy. I thought to myself man this was not what kind of job that I'm used to. Then I have a bit of a mishap with said fender and had to redo the whole thing. I originally used one of my airlines with high pressure fitting and didn't really like the outcome. The next time I painted it I used an airline with the HVLP ends on it. Man what a night and day difference. Everything came out smoother 10 fold. I think I've relearned a lesson that I seem to
Forget about every so often. The more air volume you can feed and HVLP ( high volume low pressure) paint gun the better it works. If you need to see for yourself. Try a side by side comparison.

The fittings on the right are an HVLP fitting. They are just an older style. As far as dialing in my gun I've been doing this so long I dial in by ear and yes pulling the trigger a few times to confirm that I have an even pattern. I also sometimes leave my cheater valve all of the way open until I need to lay a drop or orientation coat and then I close it up a tiny bit. But leave the air flow open and much as possible is the ticket.

Great discussion guys. Appreciate the info.

Glad you brought up the regulation question PI - i could have sworn i remembered you saying you regulate at the gun itself and i was curious why Jstslamd seemed to advice against it.

I've started a new project. I'm a long way off from any finishing work but it's still constantly in mind. Keep meaning to check out a new HF location that opened near me. When i finally get over there maybe i'll grab one of their guns and give it a try.

Can anyone recommend a place to buy finishes for reasonable prices? I've picked up my shellac and other supplies from Home Depot in the past, but i went to pick up a gallon the other day and it was close to $50. Seemed pretty steep.

Are you fellas in the tristate area by any chance ? If not you can go to your local bodyshop and ask them where their supplier located. The suppliers usually sell to the public.

I have places coming out my a** around here. There has to be places around there. You could do a local google search too for automotive refinishing supplies in your area.

yeah, i'm in north jersey. would be cool if you have any recommendations for my area. i probably wouldn't be buying in bulk though, not sure if that limits my options.

How far north in jersey ? Maybe I can talk to some of my reps to give you locations.

Their is some things that you can order online that are good to use. The next thing I want to try when priming mdf is polyester primer. A company called evercoat makes one called feather fill. It's a super high build primer. Some people refer to it as body filler in a gun. I'm interested to see how much it fills. The high build I use at work took a good 6-7 coats to fill the mdf and give it some build.

I would use atleast a 1.6. Preferably a 1.8

i'm in passaic county - maybe 15 miles west of the lincoln tunnel. if you know a good supplier in my area that's cool, but don't trouble yourself over it. i figured somebody might post a link to some online suppliers.

damn, that's a beautiful finish

Looking good!!

Damn... Even though it goes without saying, I'm going to say it anyway: Beautiful job! You're obviously very skilled and have done a fantastic job on everything. I also love your attitude toward helping all the rest of us who may not have the skills or knowledge for these things.

The post that demonstrates this:

Awesome. Good on you for such a great attitude, and keep up the good work!

What is rubbing compound?

If I didn't mention before my name is Jason. Just so people know. As far as compound goes you could look at it as a liquid sandpaper. Basically it is an abrasive liquid that polished out anywhere from 1200 to 3000 grit sand scratches depending on how aggressive of compound you buy. For wet sanding and polishing a simple and highly recommended brand and system is the 3m perfect-it 2. The has three easy steps and the buffing pads to go with it. It is guaranteed to give you a highly polished finish. It is the product I live by when buffing cars. I could smooth the surface with 1500 and the back that up with some 2000 grit paper. Then start with step one which is the compound. The other 2 step are a swirl mark remover and a machine polish that make every even and rich looking. Of you need any other info please ask or pm me.

Thanks to you both!

So you go 400, 1500, rubbing compound, polish.