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Anarchy/Dayton TM build - Page 8

post #211 of 352
When wet sanding and buffing I start with 1500 on a fresh paint job. Do not start with 400. You will. Ever get those deep sand scratches out. At the roughest go 1200
post #212 of 352
Thread Starter 
There are different approaches you can take for polishing your finish. I keep experimenting with each build project.




The sun is out, so I got a few more shots.





post #213 of 352
Thread Starter 











The cross-grain figure in the wood on the front baffles is pretty subtle, but it's there.







post #214 of 352
!!! WOW
post #215 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

!!! Wow

^^ +∞

Amazing finish PI, you must be proud.
post #216 of 352
What is this, amateur hour at the PI house? Don't you know we require an optical grade polish? The kind where you can shine a laser pointer and not see a trace of where the beam is hitting, just where it reflects to.....these fail.

Just kidding, that finish is awesome.

I have ground & polished large optics before, and the 'compounding + polishing' steps take about 3 hours per inch of optic diameter. Largest I have done is 8 inches, by hand. The laser pointer test is quite tough to pass....

Polishing lacquer in comparison is easy....but we also don't have to make it smooth to less than 1 millionth of an inch....

JSS
post #217 of 352
Lost for words... What a finish...
post #218 of 352
Looking good!! Now let's hear how they sound.
post #219 of 352
I will be in Dallas in June. I can drop by and pick these up. Wicked skills PI.
post #220 of 352
Thread Starter 
Thanks, guys! I'll let you know how they sound.
I still have to do the crossover boards and make some stands, so I'm not nearly done yet.
post #221 of 352
Those latest pics are awesome!

The Abralon pads can be expensive. I did a bunch of shopping around before i bought some a while back. I found a pretty cheap source and wanted to share it - unfortunately, it seems the site now requires a registration/login and i think you have to be a contractor or something:

http://saundersprosourcecenter.com/index.php

I got a 12 disk assortment for $30 last year.

I see eBay has a similar deal with 10 disk assortments for just over $30, so that's pretty good too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-abralon-p...-/190480005153
post #222 of 352
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip on sourcing the Abralon pads cheaper, Joe.

Well, I thought I was going to use CADsoft's Eagle software to do the crossover board layout. I've never done that before. I've just laid them out by hand on 1/4" MDF or plywood. After sitting through several tutorial videos on YouTube, I discovered that the Free version of Eagle limits you to a 4" x 3.2" board, which is too small and they want $169 for a version that lets you use a 6.3" x 3.9" board.

So, I looked for another free software package.
I'm getting ready to try PCB Artist. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
If it takes me too long to learn, I'll just do the crossover boards like I've done before and learn the software later.
post #223 of 352
That seems kinda steep for abrasives. I get paper for about 35 bucks for a roll or 50-150 depending on grit. Is there something I'm not catching with this brand ?
post #224 of 352
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jstslamd View Post

I get paper for about 35 bucks for a roll

You're talking about PSA discs. PSA pads are not commonly found on electric sanders/polishers. Some PSA pads are available for a few models of certain brands, but most of us who work in our garage at home go with what is more commonly available to us, which means Hook & Loop (velcro) discs. PSA pads are mostly found on pneumatic sanders. But, those typically require a huge amount of air flow, something on the order of 80 CFM. My 60 gallon tank is rated for 11 CFM. Or was it 13? Not enough, anyway.

Yes the Abralon discs are pricey, but I only use them for polishing, so they last me a pretty good while. If you are aware of some good, practical alternatives for home use that include P-1000, P-2000 and P-4000, let us know. Links would be helpful.

I'll start with something definitely worth knowing about.
Micro-Mesh 5" Hook & Loop no-hole sanding discs are available as a 9-disc set of 1 each of the following:
1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000 grit.
Here is a link. The price is shown as $17.99. I think I posted a build that used them for polishing. I don't post every build I do, so I can't say for sure if any of those projects got posted. You will definitely see them again in a future build.

Still not as good as $35 for 50-150 PSA disc rolls, but cheaper than Abralon discs. It's too bad the Micro-Mesh discs are not available in 6", or I would use them more often than I do, as I prefer the larger 6" size for sanding and polishing.

I try to show different alternatives, so people can decide for themselves what might work best for them and I welcome suggestions and ideas from others. We all learn from each other.
post #225 of 352
I like the Abralons for polishing my finishes. But i'm still learning how to best use them - my finishing skills still have a long way to go.

They come in super high grit, they hold water well when wet-sanding and the padding makes them nicer than paper on curved surfaces. And i love curved builds lately

My understanding was that they are popular in some autobody shops, as well as woodworking and bowling pro-shops. Speaking of which, this site has a paragraph with some comments on the advantages of the pads:

http://www.bowlersdream.com/abralonpads.html
post #226 of 352
An alternative to machine wet sanding and polishing that I use religiously and love is 3m's trizac system. It consists of 1500 dry da sandpaper and 3000 grit wet da paper. I believe you can use the 1500 wet also though. Might not be a bad idea to check this out. Usually you can buy this paper by the sheet in most Autobody supply stores. Atleast around here I can.
post #227 of 352
Thread Starter 
I made some nice progress in learning how to do the board layout with PCB Artist, but I have a way to go yet and I'm getting impatient. So I decided to go the purely manual route for this project so I can get it done sooner.

Some of the components will be standing up, so I can cram them into a smaller space.



post #228 of 352
I've tried some minwax stain and poly in one type stuff on some scrap maple, and it looks bad. It's ebony. I want black with wood grain showing. I thought maybe that trans tint you used might work. Any thoughts?

Nice xo work by the way.
post #229 of 352
Thread Starter 
tuxedocivic--Maple is difficult to stain evenly. A pre-stain sealer would help to even things out, to avoid blotchy results. But, experimenting with Trans-Tint on some scrap would be interesting. I haven't tried ebony on Maple before, so I can't say what to expect. Another approach is to use black paint in one or two light coats, like I did on the Stentorians. That would give you the color and the wood-grain texture you're after.

If you try Trans-Tint, I'd say dissolve it in DeNatured Alcohol and spray it. Then spray some Lacquer for your Top Coat.
post #230 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post





This speaker build is certainly the best I've seen. Oddly enough, the second best one was from you as well! I don't think DIY work can get any more professional than that. And that Curvomatic really works well. That company should rent those things out between builds!


The finish you put on those looks incredible. The color, the shine, the Toyota T-100 in the background.......top notch build thread all the way.
post #231 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

tuxedocivic--Maple is difficult to stain evenly. A pre-stain sealer would help to even things out, to avoid blotchy results. But, experimenting with Trans-Tint on some scrap would be interesting. I haven't tried ebony on Maple before, so I can't say what to expect. Another approach is to use black paint in one or two light coats, like I did on the Stentorians. That would give you the color and the wood-grain texture you're after.

If you try Trans-Tint, I'd say dissolve it in DeNatured Alcohol and spray it. Then spray some Lacquer for your Top Coat.

Oh man, what have I got myself into I'm not sure I'm going to be able to pull this off. Why lacquer instead of polyurethane? I planned on 2 coats of poly, trans tint until desirable results, 2 more coats of poly. Polish. Maybe how you did the stentorians is best.
post #232 of 352
Thread Starter 
Erich H--Thanks, man. You're very kind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Oh man, what have I got myself into I'm not sure I'm going to be able to pull this off. Why lacquer instead of polyurethane? I planned on 2 coats of poly, trans tint until desirable results, 2 more coats of poly. Polish. Maybe how you did the stentorians is best.

Don't worry, my friend. You can get great results which ever way you go.
If you want the wood texture to show, you will need to limit the number of coats of finish. I tossed out the Lacquer suggestion as a possibility, not a necessity. Poly will work just fine. If you have any doubts or reservations, experiment on some scrap--no worries.
post #233 of 352
nice job! I picked up a turbine hvlp setup recently......now i will have to practice with it and hope to get close to your great results. I enjoy your builds, and quality camera work as well.
post #234 of 352
Thread Starter 
WoodFiend--I will watch for your project. I am sure you will get great results with your new finish sprayer.


I am on the road this week, so no progress will be made on the cabs this week. And I am so close to completion.
post #235 of 352
Thread Starter 
I will be back on the Widow-Makers after the Memorial Day weekend.

I had the pleasure of meeting a great group of guys, who were enjoying their hobby at Hefner Lake in Oklahoma City. These Kite-Surfers or Kiters as they call themselves have a really cool hobby and one of them is even an Audio-Video pro--Fred has a company called Unique Home Audio and is even a member of AVS.

There is no boat. The kiters use their kites to pull themselves up and down the lake. I really want to try this sometime.









Some of the jumps were easily 40 feet off the water.

post #236 of 352
Kiting is really fun to watch. I've never done it myself, but it's quite popular where I live, but done on the ocean. Nice pics!
post #237 of 352
Thread Starter 
I used some 5 minute epoxy to secure some standoffs on the 1/8" MDF boards, which had gotten a little silver paint to make them look a little nicer.




While I wait for the epoxy to cure, I may as well cut some holes for the terminal cups.





post #238 of 352
Must have been terrifying taking the hole saw to that beautiful finish
post #239 of 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowpolyjoe View Post

Must have been terrifying taking the hole saw to that beautiful finish

+1, I thought the same thing.
post #240 of 352
Some day you mite just learn how to paint like me and be the envy of the DIY section, until then look on as i parade these babies across the web

Yeah, thats 6 coats of latex buddy !!!!!


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