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what makes pioneer kuro so special - Page 3

post #61 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover View Post

Either the phenomenon you're describing is so mild as to be irrelevant or you're reasoning is wrong somehow. I think D-Nice hit it on the money. You're making assertions about a set you don't even have access to test with a meter. You're going opposite to the scientific method which usually means your suppositions are wrong.

Those images are created with data from measurements taken from those displays.

D-Nice will be able to verify that this data is correct. (I don't expect him to, however)


If you are used to watching a display in a darkened room at reference brightness, the effect is very obvious in person.
It is immediately obvious if you have a Kuro next to any LCD when both are calibrated to the same peak brightness level.

If you do not have a calibrated display and have the contrast control jacked up, then it may be considerably less noticeable as the dimmed image may end up closer to where it should be. (but then I find small areas of high contrast to be unbearably bright to watch in a dark room)
post #62 of 160
Chronoptimist, d-nice is a professional calibrator with years of experience, he surely doesn't talk out of his bottom, keep that in mind.

As for the APL, it's there, there's no denying it. At the same time, it's definitely not so pronounced as the pictures you posted make it appear. Furthermore, as the eyes adapt to extra light output, when you watch normal content it's something you really don't notice.

I'm not sure if this is enough to make a Kuro PDP reference or not, as far as what is/was commercially available, I've yet to see something surpassing it in PQ.
post #63 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Those images are created with data from measurements taken from those displays.

You can't be seriously suggesting that those images accurately depict the behavior of those sets, can you? Nobody's arguing that ABL doesn't exist but those are seriously exaggerated at best. My Panasonic PX77U doesn't look anything like that, and yes I watch hockey on it all the time. You sound like a knowledgable person but your arguments, particularly with those who are more knowledgable, are not improving your credibility.

jeff
post #64 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorman42 View Post

As for the APL, it's there, there's no denying it. At the same time, it's definitely not so pronounced as the pictures you posted make it appear. Furthermore, as the eyes adapt to extra light output, when you watch normal content it's something you really don't notice.

Feel free to cross-reference those images with the data in this graph, you will find it to be a match.

The only reason it may not appear to be so pronounced is if you are not used to looking at a display that doesn't do this (or not to the same extent) or have never done a side-by-side comparison with an LCD or other display device without an ABL circuit. (or one so aggressive)

Reference/KRP simulated results based on APL. Random shots taken from the Planet Earth Blu-ray as it was mentioned earlier. (haven't put that in for years and I was surprised that it didn't look nearly as good as I remembered) This is what you would expect to see in a side-by-side comparison with an LCD.

Roughly 60% APL, 15% brightness drop.


~70% APL, 20% brightness drop.


~75% APL, 25% brightness drop.

The top image is about the limit for where things start to become noticeable in isolated viewing for me on a 9.5G screen. This is considerably better performance than the 9G screens where even medium APL content looked dim.


Quote:
Originally Posted by greenjp View Post

My Panasonic PX77U doesn't look anything like that, and yes I watch hockey on it all the time. You sound like a knowledgable person but your arguments, particularly with those who are more knowledgable, are not improving your credibility.

As I previously mentioned, data I have seen from Panasonic screens of a similar age was considerably better than the Kuros. D-Nice claims that has changed with newer models though, but has not backed this up with anything.
post #65 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

There seems to be some confusion over what this data is a measurement of. This is the data combined with the test patterns.

If it still doesn't mean anything to you, any of the larger patterns (high APL) are representative of brighter scenes in film.

Please make sure you are viewing in on black rather than the lighter AVS Forum theme. (a bright surround will make the differences less noticeable)

Reference display (or any LCD out there)


9G Kuro:


9.5G Kuro:

You are exaggerating here. Everyone knows that with white will dim as the screen % increases , but it isn't like your simulation.
post #66 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorman42 View Post

As for the APL, it's there, there's no denying it. At the same time, it's definitely not so pronounced as the pictures you posted make it appear. Furthermore, as the eyes adapt to extra light output, when you watch normal content it's something you really don't notice.

You are 100% correct.
post #67 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

The only reason it may not appear to be so pronounced is if you are not used to looking at a display that doesn't do this (or not to the same extent) or have never done a side-by-side comparison with an LCD or other display device without an ABL circuit. (or one so aggressive)

Have you actually placed a PDP next to a LCD and conducted such a test? I have and as I've already stated, your simulation is exaggerated.

Quote:


As I previously mentioned, data I have seen from Panasonic screens of a similar age was considerably better than the Kuros. D-Nice claims that has changed with newer models though, but has not backed this up with anything.

Pansonics are considerable worse than any other PDP, including the Kuro, because of there dynamic drive circuitry. As far as me backing up my claims, I take it you are completely unaware of the issues relating to calibrating the newer Panasonics to the point where one will get completely different calibration results depending on windowed pattern size. Example... if reference white (100% stimuli) measures 40fL with 4% windowed patterns, it will measure roughly 28-29fL with 10% windowed patterns. None of this happens on Samsungs, LGs or Kuros. You don't have to take my word for it. Go search the Display Calibration forum for post by ChadB or read David McKenzie's HDTVTest review of the 2011 Panasonics.

Stop wasting our time and do your research.
post #68 of 160
D,
What is the max light output that you've been able to squeeze from a 65VT30 for ISF Day? I thought I had read on that other forum, that it was about 40 ftl. Is that true?

Could any of the other picture modes be accurately calibrated to put out more light?
post #69 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by hhaller View Post

D,
What is the max light output that you've been able to squeeze from a 65VT30 for ISF Day? I thought I had read on that other forum, that it was about 40 ftl. Is that true?

Could any of the other picture modes be accurately calibrated to put out more light?

In Mid panel brightness, the light output would read around 35fL which translates into roughly 46-48fL when you take into consideration how the panel is driven. I do not use the High panel brightness for any calibration.
post #70 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Those images are created with data from measurements taken from those displays.

D-Nice will be able to verify that this data is correct. (I don't expect him to, however)


If you are used to watching a display in a darkened room at reference brightness, the effect is very obvious in person.
It is immediately obvious if you have a Kuro next to any LCD when both are calibrated to the same peak brightness level.

My kuro is hooked up to an HTPC. I have an IPS LCD monitor nearby.

The LCD is already brighter than I like on the lowest brightness setting so no they are not set to the same peak white, but I can easily compare uniformity between the two (about the same although there's slightly backlight bleed in the IPS). Depending on the circumstances, LCD is sometimes on at the same time and yes lined up parallel to the kuro. The IPS also looks nice, although the kuro looks like a good IPS on steroids and without the excess brightness causing the LCD backlight glow.

Quote:


If you do not have a calibrated display and have the contrast control jacked up, then it may be considerably less noticeable as the dimmed image may end up closer to where it should be. (but then I find small areas of high contrast to be unbearably bright to watch in a dark room)

I do use DRE on mine (dynamic range extension), although that's doing something different than just brute-force upping the contrast. I don't remember any uniformity issues with it off. Again, you're making a ton of assumptions about a sets you don't have.

I'm not arguing that the phenomenon doesn't exist. Honestly, I think the color of the bezel would make more of a difference on your perceived PQ than what you're describing...
post #71 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You are exaggerating here. Everyone knows that with white will dim as the screen % increases , but it isn't like your simulation.

You're right, I have made a huge mistake with these images and while you probably won't believe me, unintentionally misrepresented that data.

For a 40% brightness drop (100% APL on a 9.5G) I just changed the value to 60% grey in Photoshop and so on.
With a PC monitor calibrated to 2.2 gamma, that would actually be perceived as a 70% brightness drop.

Here are the gamma correct images.

Reference:


9G:


9.5G:


I will replace the older images from my previous posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover View Post

Again, you're making a ton of assumptions about a sets you don't have.

Any more. I have owned two of them in the past.
post #72 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

There seems to be some confusion over what this data is a measurement of. This is the data combined with the test patterns.

If it still doesn't mean anything to you, any of the larger patterns (high APL) are representative of brighter scenes in film.

Please make sure you are viewing in on black rather than the lighter AVS Forum theme. (a bright surround will make the differences less noticeable)

Reference display (or any LCD out there)


9G:


9.5G:

If this is supposed to represent full field white on a 9 and 9.5G Kuro then this may just be the silliest post I have ever seen on AVS.
post #73 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

You're right, I have made a huge mistake with these images and while you probably won't believe me, unintentionally misrepresented that data.

Everyone makes mistakes, however your sims are still skewed.... even with full screen white.
post #74 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by calvin35 View Post

If this is supposed to represent full field white on a 9 and 9.5G Kuro then this may just be the silliest post I have ever seen on AVS.

His sims are nothing new. Sampo tried this many years ago.... and failed.
post #75 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Everyone makes mistakes, however your sims are still skewed.... even with full screen white.

The patterns are here if you want to check for yourself: http://www.mediafire.com/?dw8or3l0gda2qth

A 9G loses ~60% brightness, a 9.5G loses ~40% brightness at 100% APL, at least when peak white is set to around 100 nits. I don't know if the ABL is affected by the contrast setting, and if higher light outputs would perform worse—it's not something that matters to me.

At 2.2 gamma on a calibrated PC display, that's 79% grey (9.5G) and 67% grey. (9G) Pretty sure my math is correct on that.


Or are you saying they're skewed in some other way?


Quote:
Originally Posted by calvin35 View Post

If this is supposed to represent full field white on a 9 and 9.5G Kuro then this may just be the silliest post I have ever seen on AVS.

Please elaborate.
post #76 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

The patterns are here if you want to check for yourself: http://www.mediafire.com/?dw8or3l0gda2qth

A 9G loses ~60% brightness, a 9.5G loses ~40% brightness at 100% APL, at least when peak white is set to around 100 nits. I don't know if the ABL is affected by the contrast setting, and if higher light outputs would perform worseit's not something that matters to me.

At 2.2 gamma on a calibrated PC display, that's 79% grey (9.5G) and 67% grey. (9G) Pretty sure my math is correct on that.


Or are you saying they're skewed in some other way?

You do realize I can put full screen white on my Kuros at anytime and compare it to an LCD, right? It does not look like your sims.

Simply put, reality does not match your sims.
post #77 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

The patterns are here if you want to check for yourself: http://www.mediafire.com/?dw8or3l0gda2qth

A 9G loses ~60% brightness, a 9.5G loses ~40% brightness at 100% APL, at least when peak white is set to around 100 nits. I don't know if the ABL is affected by the contrast setting, and if higher light outputs would perform worseit's not something that matters to me.

At 2.2 gamma on a calibrated PC display, that's 79% grey (9.5G) and 67% grey. (9G) Pretty sure my math is correct on that.


Or are you saying they're skewed in some other way?


Please elaborate.

The simple fact that the real sets do not look in any way like what you are posting here is elaboration enough. Seriously, take a step back and look at those things. All sorts of real life content (especially television commercials and hockey games) have very high % of white on screen and to suggest the Kuros will present it as dark grey is absurd on its face. Yes they get dimmer and it's noticeable at the extremes but those graphics are exaggerations, simply put. There is a flaw in your calculations, reasoning, and/or methods.

jeff
post #78 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You do realize I can put full screen white on my Kuros at anytime and compare it to an LCD, right? It does not look like your sims.

Simply put, reality does not match your sims.

Well no, rather than looking grey, it just looks dim... but there's no other way of representing that.

The brightness change is the same however.
post #79 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Well no, rather than looking grey, it just looks dim... but there's no other way of representing that.

The brightness change is the same however.

Well there you go. A flaw in the method. Seriously, you should edit those posts and remove that stuff because it's completely misleading and only serves to detract from the points you're trying to make.

jeff
post #80 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Well no, rather than looking grey, it just looks dim... but there's no other way of representing that.

The brightness change is the same however.

Yes the brightness is dimmer with 100% full field white on a plasma (not just the Kuro which you fail to get). But it is no where near what you are attempting to show with your sim.
post #81 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Well no, rather than looking grey, it just looks dim... but there's no other way of representing that.

The brightness change is the same however.

Your eyes adjust to the lighting environment so that dimness only matter if you're watching in a very bright room. Otherwise, you won't see it. So all your post amounts to is that LCD's can go brighter than plasmas. Woah! Groundbreaking... since that wasn't already common knowledge.

Like has been said many times, white point vs. room light levels matters a lot more than some arbitrary number.
post #82 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by all clear View Post

Hi guys

i wonder and i ask my self

what makes pioneer kuro so special other than any HDTV

i own the kuro and i calibrated well..but still i don`t know what make it so special

black level ??..does this really matter ??

i`m confused with the picture quality it looks like dull and lack of brightness

I think I'll make a stab of answering the question, ignoring the ongoing debate...

For the record, I have calibrated a few hundred Pioneer's of different generations, so that's basically my background. First off, the Kuro's are not perfect displays. Just widely considered closer to perfect than anything else out there. Is it a "reference display"? Depends what you mean by reference. Reference for comparison between end-user displays, yes. Reference as in studio reference monitor - no. However, I do believe that the vast majority is right - a Pioneer KRP is the best monitor ever created. I also happen to believe that while the KRP is better than a 5090h, the difference isn't that big - the 5090h is still in my opinion better than any competitor.

But what's so special about it then? Well, first off, it's possible to get it fairly close to accurate, fairly easily. If you find the picture dull, you have either A: A bad calibration (perhaps a good calibration for a dark room placed in a bright room?), or B: you just don't see the value of an accurate picture. Which is fine, I believe you should look into why an accurate picture is an advantage, but you're entitled to your own opinion.

However, other displays can be calibrated for fairly accurate color and gamma as well, so what makes the Kuro different. Basically, black level is a major factor - however, not the way most people seem to think. It's not just that the black level is low, it's the fact that black level is low _without_ any tricks, such as backlight dimming on LCD's, or variable drive current like on Panasonic's (which is one reason Panny's don't match Kuro´s). The black level is good, the detail in dark areas are good, the color accuracy in dark areas are good - without any visible drawbacks. Every single competitor that has similar black levels, achieve them by introducing drawbacks. I personally believe that this, combined with fairly accurate color, is the main reason for Kuro's success.

Another area where specifically Panasonic fails to match the Kuro's, is in signal processing. Any consumer-grade Panasonic I've seen (I haven't seen many pro Panny's), have some kind of active sharpness-processing going on. You can see this on certain patterns on HD basics (don't recall the name of the pattern, I will update as soon as I've checked...). The Panasonic's change the sharpness behavior based on the material. The Kuro's are much more solid in this regard. This is part of the reason why Kuro's just "feels" better, more accurate, natural if you will (provided that that's what the source material calls for).

To cut it short, basically the Kuro's are the displays that have the least obvious, least intrusive issues with image quality. There are certainly displays out there that matches or surpasses the Kuro's in certain areas. But none that have the same all-round lack of visible artifacts. Any display that surpasses the Kuro's in certain areas, does it in areas that aren't very obvious to the naked eye - while at the same time compromising in areas that are. I think that's the best way to sum it up.
post #83 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover View Post

No, reference white is whatever level matches with the brightness levels in the room the display is being used to produce a reference quality image. That can vary greatly by location and to a degree based on user preference - how bright someone likes their image.


You could argue that if the ambient light is too high, you will never achieve a reference quality image no matter what. If you want reference quality images, you need a reference quality environment. Trying to achieve a high quality image in very bright surroundings, is just like trying to achieve high-end sound in a non-treated listening room - it's just not possible. You can certainly minimize the issues, but it will never be "reference quality".

Also, I don't see any relevance of "user preference" when discussing reference quality. If preference is involved, it's no longer reference.
post #84 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto J View Post

I think I'll make a stab of answering the question, ignoring the ongoing debate...

For the record, I have calibrated a few hundred Pioneer's of different generations, so that's basically my background. First off, the Kuro's are not perfect displays. Just widely considered closer to perfect than anything else out there. Is it a "reference display"? Depends what you mean by reference. Reference for comparison between end-user displays, yes. Reference as in studio reference monitor - no. However, I do believe that the vast majority is right - a Pioneer KRP is the best monitor ever created. I also happen to believe that while the KRP is better than a 5090h, the difference isn't that big - the 5090h is still in my opinion better than any competitor.

But what's so special about it then? Well, first off, it's possible to get it fairly close to accurate, fairly easily. If you find the picture dull, you have either A: A bad calibration (perhaps a good calibration for a dark room placed in a bright room?), or B: you just don't see the value of an accurate picture. Which is fine, I believe you should look into why an accurate picture is an advantage, but you're entitled to your own opinion.

However, other displays can be calibrated for fairly accurate color and gamma as well, so what makes the Kuro different. Basically, black level is a major factor - however, not the way most people seem to think. It's not just that the black level is low, it's the fact that black level is low _without_ any tricks, such as backlight dimming on LCD's, or variable drive current like on Panasonic's (which is one reason Panny's don't match Kuro´s). The black level is good, the detail in dark areas are good, the color accuracy in dark areas are good - without any visible drawbacks. Every single competitor that has similar black levels, achieve them by introducing drawbacks. I personally believe that this, combined with fairly accurate color, is the main reason for Kuro's success.

Another area where specifically Panasonic fails to match the Kuro's, is in signal processing. Any consumer-grade Panasonic I've seen (I haven't seen many pro Panny's), have some kind of active sharpness-processing going on. You can see this on certain patterns on HD basics (don't recall the name of the pattern, I will update as soon as I've checked...). The Panasonic's change the sharpness behavior based on the material. The Kuro's are much more solid in this regard. This is part of the reason why Kuro's just "feels" better, more accurate, natural if you will (provided that that's what the source material calls for).

To cut it short, basically the Kuro's are the displays that have the least obvious, least intrusive issues with image quality. There are certainly displays out there that matches or surpasses the Kuro's in certain areas. But none that have the same all-round lack of visible artifacts. Any display that surpasses the Kuro's in certain areas, does it in areas that aren't very obvious to the naked eye - while at the same time compromising in areas that are. I think that's the best way to sum it up.

Excellent post... I was beginning to think I was the only one who thought this. What's the point of having better blacks than a Kuro if you have to introduce distracting artifacts to do it? TV manufacturers are trying to progress picture quality through gimmicks rather than doing it the right way. More cost effective I'm sure, but that doesn't mean I have to like it!
post #85 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto J View Post

You could argue that if the ambient light is too high, you will never achieve a reference quality image no matter what. If you want reference quality images, you need a reference quality environment. Trying to achieve a high quality image in very bright surroundings, is just like trying to achieve high-end sound in a non-treated listening room - it's just not possible. You can certainly minimize the issues, but it will never be "reference quality".

Also, I don't see any relevance of "user preference" when discussing reference quality. If preference is involved, it's no longer reference.

Presumably calibrators try to get a display as close as reference as possible, while factoring in individual user tastes. I was talking about practical application of display placement in a consumer environment. And I disagree on your comparison to high end audio. It's a lot easier to make acceptable adjustments for lighting than it is to compensate for a room poorly suited for high end audio. Sound has far more variables, whereas light is somewhat more "flat" in most viewing environments. I also think displays usually have slightly better "sweet spot" in terms of lighting environments they can handle while maintaining PQ vs. audio.
post #86 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto J View Post

You could argue that if the ambient light is too high, you will never achieve a reference quality image no matter what. If you want reference quality images, you need a reference quality environment. Trying to achieve a high quality image in very bright surroundings, is just like trying to achieve high-end sound in a non-treated listening room - it's just not possible. You can certainly minimize the issues, but it will never be "reference quality".

Also, I don't see any relevance of "user preference" when discussing reference quality. If preference is involved, it's no longer reference.

Thank you, that's what I've been trying to say with regard to reference white level—it doesn't matter that it's not defined in the BT.709 spec, the goal is to match the mastering environment for a reference-class image. For that same reason, 2.4 should be the target gamma if you have the viewing environment correct. (mastering CRTs are as close to 2.4 as they could make them)

But do you then agree that there is no way you could call the Kuro a reference display, if it dims the image as much as 40% lower than intended, depending on picture content?


Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover View Post

Your eyes adjust to the lighting environment so that dimness only matter if you're watching in a very bright room. Otherwise, you won't see it. So all your post amounts to is that LCD's can go brighter than plasmas. Woah! Groundbreaking... since that wasn't already common knowledge.

Like has been said many times, white point vs. room light levels matters a lot more than some arbitrary number.

No, the point is that it is not representing the image as intended. Scenes which are meant to be bright, are dimmer than they are supposed to be no matter how you set up the display. It's not something your eyes can adjust to, because it's a non-linear process. Lower APL scenes are (mostly) displayed correctly, so bright scenes are still dim relative to them.

It has nothing to do with how bright you set the screen. If you set it to 100 nits, you get 60 nits when the whole screen goes white, instead of 100.

If you set it to 200 nits, assuming the ABL doesn't get more aggressive with an increased contrast setting, you would get 120 nits. That is a significant dimming of the image compared to what it is supposed to be.

This is not the same thing as the fact that an LCD might go as bright as 500 nits. A reference image would be set to 100 nits no matter what display it is, and should maintain that irrespective of average picture level.

A plasma should be able to reach 100 nits when displaying a 100% APL image, but to do so means that lower APL images are displayed significantly brighter than they ought to be. You cannot get a linear response out of the Kuro, as is expected from a reference-class display.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Iorek View Post

Excellent post... I was beginning to think I was the only one who thought this. What's the point of having better blacks than a Kuro if you have to introduce distracting artifacts to do it? TV manufacturers are trying to progress picture quality through gimmicks rather than doing it the right way. More cost effective I'm sure, but that doesn't mean I have to like it!

Local-dimming LCDs have greater ANSI performance than CRTs ever did. While there are artefacts created from it, it's generally still a better picture.

The Kuros add their own artefacts to the image by the nature of being a Plasma. (poor gradation, dithering, phosphor trails, ABL dimming etc.) There is nothing that gets it all right yet, on the consumer side of things. Hopefully OLED will fix that in a few years time. (or sooner if the idea of a HMD isn't offputting to you)
post #87 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Thank you, that's what I've been trying to say with regard to reference white levelit doesn't matter that it's not defined in the BT.709 spec, the goal is to match the mastering environment for a reference-class image. For that same reason, 2.4 should be the target gamma if you have the viewing environment correct. (mastering CRTs are as close to 2.4 as they could make them)

But do you then agree that there is no way you could call the Kuro a reference display, if it dims the image as much as 40% lower than intended, depending on picture content?

2.4 is the standard for a studio reference monitor. It is not the standard for anything else, period! There are two gamma targets currently being considered by SMPTE for digital displays... 2.2 and 2.35, Niether is 2.4, is it?

Less than .5% of the consumer market has a room spec'ed to a reference studio mastering booth. Wake up and join reality.


Quote:


No, the point is that it is not representing the image as intended. Scenes which are meant to be bright, are dimmer than they are supposed to be no matter how you set up the display. It's not something your eyes can adjust to, because it's a non-linear process. Lower APL scenes are (mostly) displayed correctly, so bright scenes are still dim relative to them.

Dimmer based on what? Are you going to sit hear and continue to think that an ABL circuit is linear in its action regardless of where a PDP's reference light output is set? Seriously?

In general, the ABL circuit is more aggressive the higher reference white is set via windowed patterns. It is the exact opposite as reference white is set lower.

AND AGAIN, consumer CRTs had ABL circuits. It is the primiary reason why one calibrates a CRT with windowed patterns instead of full field (yeah, windowed patterns where here long before PDPs).

Your posts are becoming tired. Give it a rest.
post #88 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Local-dimming LCDs have greater ANSI performance than CRTs ever did. While there are artefacts created from it, it's generally still a better picture.

The Kuros add their own artefacts to the image by the nature of being a Plasma. (poor gradation, dithering, phosphor trails, ABL dimming etc.) There is nothing that gets it all right yet, on the consumer side of things. Hopefully OLED will fix that in a few years time. (or sooner if the idea of a HMD isn't offputting to you)

I wasn't suggesting that the Kuros were still #1 in all categories, but as Otto stated, they provide an amazing picture with minimal distracting artifacts. For all I know you could be 100% correct about the dimming (Though I'm much more inclined to trust D-Nice's input), but I simply don't notice it during real content. Same with dithering and everything else you mentioned. What I do notice is blooming, floating blacks, clouding, lack of uniformity, flashlighting, etc. I've tried more than a few TVs over the past two years, and all of them had flaws that distracted me to some degree. With the 500M I can just sit back and enjoy a movie.

Imagine if Pioneer had stayed in the TV business. If the 9.5g TVs are any indication, they were working to improve this dimming you speak of in addition to pushing the envelope on all the other aspects of picture quality. And they were doing that without gimmicks. It's a tragedy.
post #89 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iorek View Post

I wasn't suggesting that the Kuros were still #1 in all categories, but as Otto stated, they provide an amazing picture with minimal distracting artifacts. For all I know you could be 100% correct about the dimming (Though I'm much more inclined to trust D-Nice's input), but I simply don't notice it during real content. Same with dithering and everything else you mentioned. What I do notice is blooming, floating blacks, clouding, lack of uniformity, flashlighting, etc. I've tried more than a few TVs over the past two years, and all of them had flaws that distracted me to some degree. With the 500M I can just sit back and enjoy a movie.

Imagine if Pioneer had stayed in the TV business. If the 9.5g TVs are any indication, they were working to improve this dimming you speak of in addition to pushing the envelope on all the other aspects of picture quality. And they were doing that without gimmicks. It's a tragedy.

If pioneer was still making plasma's, they would have perfected plasma tech by now or damn close! The 500m is almost there as is!
post #90 of 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

2.4 is the standard for a studio reference monitor. It is not the standard for anything else, period! There are two gamma targets currently being considered by SMPTE for digital displays... 2.2 and 2.35, Niether is 2.4, is it?

As previously mentioned, a reference quality image means matching the studio reference monitor it was mastered on.

If the content was created on a display at 100 nits in an almost completely dark room (as most modern rooms are) on a display with BT.709 primaries (somewhat debateable, but lets not go into that) and running a 2.4 gamma, then that is what you should strive to achieve if you want a reference quality image.

If you simply follow the BT.709 spec and set the unspecified parameters (white level, gamma, viewing environment etc.) however you like, then it's not a reference-class image, even if it's better than most people have at home.


Studio CRTs were 2.4 as best they could make them (they actually approach 2.6 near black) and the new generation of monitors (the BVM-Es) are a pure 2.40 curve as OLED does not have the limitations of CRT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Dimmer based on what? Are you going to sit hear and continue to think that an ABL circuit is linear in its action regardless of where a PDP's reference light output is set? Seriously?

In general, the ABL circuit is more aggressive the higher reference white is set via windowed patterns. It is the exact opposite as reference white is set lower.

In that case, the Kuros perform worse than I previously thought. I only rated their performance at reference levels. (100 nits) I did not see an improvement when lowering output to 80 nits, so perhaps they were already at the lowest impact ABL state which is why going lower didn't change things.

Honestly though, even if the ABL gets significantly more aggressive as you increase contrast on the Kuros, I couldn't care less. Once you go much beyond 100 nits you're clearly not looking for a reference-class image. I wouldn't be happy about the set doing it, but it wouldn't affect me at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

AND AGAIN, consumer CRTs had ABL circuits. It is the primiary reason why one calibrates a CRT with windowed patterns instead of full field (yeah, windowed patterns where here long before PDPs).

And good CRTs lost less than 10% light output compared to the Kuros which lose 40% on the best models, and apparently only when set to relatively low light outputs toothey can get worse than that according to what you are now telling me. (and I would say that most people probably have their screens set brighter than 100 nits)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iorek View Post

I wasn't suggesting that the Kuros were still #1 in all categories, but as Otto stated, they provide an amazing picture with minimal distracting artifacts. For all I know you could be 100% correct about the dimming (Though I'm much more inclined to trust D-Nice's input), but I simply don't notice it during real content. Same with dithering and everything else you mentioned. What I do notice is blooming, floating blacks, clouding, lack of uniformity, flashlighting, etc. I've tried more than a few TVs over the past two years, and all of them had flaws that distracted me to some degree. With the 500M I can just sit back and enjoy a movie.

There are no uniformity issues with a local-dimming LCD, as each zone can be individually calibrated. Flashlighting only applies to edge-LED displays. Clouding doesn't exist as black is off.

I won't dispute you on blooming, though I personally am not bothered by it as it's very rare, and considerably less of an impact than the low ANSI of a CRT where a high contrast, low APL scene could light up the face of the display rather than just a small area of it.

I own a local-dimming LCD and personally I find the image on it to be far more relaxing to watch than the Kuros ever were, as there is no dithering, gradation problems near black, flickering, phosphor trails, ABL dimming. (though there is the option to emulate it for some strange reason) I'm not going to argue that it's a reference class display though, or even that it's better than the Kuros in all cases, but it's far more comfortable to watch in my eyes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Iorek View Post

Imagine if Pioneer had stayed in the TV business. If the 9.5g TVs are any indication, they were working to improve this dimming you speak of in addition to pushing the envelope on all the other aspects of picture quality. And they were doing that without gimmicks. It's a tragedy.

I won't argue with that. The ECC Kuro they showed was very exciting. (at least when it came to black level) The more people trying to push things forward the better, rather than a race to the bottom as we're seeing today with many companies no longer making high end displays. (no local dimming LED screens from Samsung at all this year?)
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