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Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread - Page 92

post #2731 of 3272
Great! Please share your settings.

C
post #2732 of 3272
LOVE the TV so far. Just love it.

Two gripes:

1) The Netfilx app doesn't always work. It'll sit on the red Netflix load screen until it says (something to the effect of) "Netflix cannot be started" with the options "Try again" or "Exit". Hitting "Try Again" has never worked. I just back out and try again later.

2) For sports.....it just seems like the TV can't quite keep up with the action. Once the tv has a sec to catch up it looks amazing, but as a football is thrown the picture breaks up. Or during a Sunday night football (on now) when the NBC logo zooms out as they cut to a replay, all the motion causes the picture to get all pixelated.

I don't notice it when I X-Box or watch BluRays....so it could absolutely be my cable provider (ATT Uverse).

I mean, neither of those are deal breakers, just observations.
Edited by Illegal Machine - 12/2/12 at 8:34pm
post #2733 of 3272
Cable is probably the culprit. Satellite is less compressed.
post #2734 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illegal Machine View Post

LOVE the TV so far. Just love it.
Two gripes:
1) The Netfilx app doesn't always work. It'll sit on the red Netflix load screen until it says (something to the effect of) "Netflix cannot be started" with the options "Try again" or "Exit". Hitting "Try Again" has never worked. I just back out and try again later.
2) For sports.....it just seems like the TV can't quite keep up with the action. Once the tv has a sec to catch up it looks amazing, but as a football is thrown the picture breaks up. Or during a Sunday night football (on now) when the NBC logo zooms out as they cut to a replay, all the motion causes the picture to get all pixelated.
I don't notice it when I X-Box or watch BluRays....so it could absolutely be my cable provider (ATT Uverse).
I mean, neither of those are deal breakers, just observations.
Re #1 - I've only had this happen once. Loads fine otherwise.

I have had Netflix try to load movies and fail. The load progress bar routinely gets to about 1/4 of the way and then stops. Seems to time out and tells me that Netflix had problems loading this particular title and to try later. Trying a second or third time usually seems to get it going and it plays fine after that.

Netflix showed that my connection will support 720p playback. The pq of the titles I've viewed so far is surprisingly good. The only problem is that they start quickly, reminding me of how slow blu ray is after showing you all the forced previews and government warnings.
post #2735 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illegal Machine View Post

LOVE the TV so far. Just love it.
Two gripes:
1) The Netfilx app doesn't always work. It'll sit on the red Netflix load screen until it says (something to the effect of) "Netflix cannot be started" with the options "Try again" or "Exit". Hitting "Try Again" has never worked. I just back out and try again later.
2) For sports.....it just seems like the TV can't quite keep up with the action. Once the tv has a sec to catch up it looks amazing, but as a football is thrown the picture breaks up. Or during a Sunday night football (on now) when the NBC logo zooms out as they cut to a replay, all the motion causes the picture to get all pixelated.
I don't notice it when I X-Box or watch BluRays....so it could absolutely be my cable provider (ATT Uverse).
I mean, neither of those are deal breakers, just observations.

I called Netflix and found it was the DNS settings..They need to be changed....You may want to call them...It isn't the tv
post #2736 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illegal Machine View Post

LOVE the TV so far. Just love it.
2) For sports.....it just seems like the TV can't quite keep up with the action. Once the tv has a sec to catch up it looks amazing, but as a football is thrown the picture breaks up. Or during a Sunday night football (on now) when the NBC logo zooms out as they cut to a replay, all the motion causes the picture to get all pixelated.

Could this be a setting with the display? I'm pretty sure that I've read on this thread that people are turning off the motion enhancement feature (I can't remember what it's called) to correct this. I'd be curious to see if others on this thread have the same issue, and if so, what source (Cable, FIOS, Satellite, etc.) are they feeding into the display.
post #2737 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illegal Machine View Post

LOVE the TV so far. Just love it.
Two gripes:
1) The Netfilx app doesn't always work. It'll sit on the red Netflix load screen until it says (something to the effect of) "Netflix cannot be started" with the options "Try again" or "Exit". Hitting "Try Again" has never worked. I just back out and try again later.
2) For sports.....it just seems like the TV can't quite keep up with the action. Once the tv has a sec to catch up it looks amazing, but as a football is thrown the picture breaks up. Or during a Sunday night football (on now) when the NBC logo zooms out as they cut to a replay, all the motion causes the picture to get all pixelated.
I don't notice it when I X-Box or watch BluRays....so it could absolutely be my cable provider (ATT Uverse).
I mean, neither of those are deal breakers, just observations.
I agree with the others. Likely your cable provider is the culprit. Your symptoms are similar to what I get with my Shaw provider. As soon as there is a lot of motion, I can usually count on tons of macro-blocking and mosquito noise. Video games, Blu-Ray, multimedia files, are all fine. Should tell you something!!
DO turn off your 120Hz though unless you like seeing 2 golf balls when there is only ONE!!
The film mode is pretty weak too with poor inter-frame interpolation. Tends to cause a mottled fuzzy distortion around objects in motion occasionally.
post #2738 of 3272
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to control our TV's thru the Ethernet, not just IR?
post #2739 of 3272
Sports and Football on my 632 are perfect! No breakup or dual footballs. You must shut off all processing (e.g. 120hz).

Love this panel.

T
post #2740 of 3272
I've got all of the motion "enhancement" turned off. Like I said, I'm suspecting it's probably Uverse.

My wife texted me this morning as I was on my way to work and said the TV had no sound. Not sure what she did (if she did anything). I'll check it when I get home.

I'll give Netflix a call about the DNS Settings.
post #2741 of 3272
Ok I understand the value of a calibration. An expert is using test equipment to fine tune your specific set and adjust for any vagaries of the assembly process and variances from the components.

What I dont get is other people using the same settings, you have a different tv??

If your looking for settings that will probably look good I would use ones selected by the people who designed and manufactured the set, the presets.
post #2742 of 3272
Your logic is correct, but if you review the extensive discussions about this set on this site, you will see the presets aren't all that good. The shared settings aren't that great either. My set, and that of many other' was done by Chad B. There's a lot said about his work; all positive.

It is worth having it done.
post #2743 of 3272
Calibration certainly has it's benefits in terms of delivering an image that is as close to standard as possible.

This is great - if this is what you are after as an enthusiast.

It is not for everyone, however.

Many people buy a specific set because they like the way it looks in the showroom. This means they like how torch mode looks in an environment that is poorly light controlled. Calibration will tame many of the characteristics out of the set, and while more accurate in it's presentation, it is not necessarily more satisfying.

Very similar to the position audio purists take with regard to tone controls and circuits on amplifiers. They hate them and would never use anything that modifies the incoming signal. Every receiver/head unit produced gives the ability to do this - because people like to pump up the bass and make the treble sing to their tastes.

Every HDTV has some sort of movie mode. Most find this mode to be far too dark and muted to be usable in anything buy a light controlled environment. This mode is usually much more accurate than the other modes present on the set. Some sets offer a THX mode that is supposed to be even more accurate. People often hate these modes.

Bottom line is know what a calibration will do, and whether that is what you want in your viewing environment. If you like significant "pop" in your picture, you may find that a good calibration removes the attributes you are seeking.
post #2744 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by aydu View Post

Calibration certainly has it's benefits in terms of delivering an image that is as close to standard as possible.
This is great - if this is what you are after as an enthusiast.
It is not for everyone, however.
Many people buy a specific set because they like the way it looks in the showroom. This means they like how torch mode looks in an environment that is poorly light controlled. Calibration will tame many of the characteristics out of the set, and while more accurate in it's presentation, it is not necessarily more satisfying.
Very similar to the position audio purists take with regard to tone controls and circuits on amplifiers. They hate them and would never use anything that modifies the incoming signal. Every receiver/head unit produced gives the ability to do this - because people like to pump up the bass and make the treble sing to their tastes.
Every HDTV has some sort of movie mode. Most find this mode to be far too dark and muted to be usable in anything buy a light controlled environment. This mode is usually much more accurate than the other modes present on the set. Some sets offer a THX mode that is supposed to be even more accurate. People often hate these modes.
Bottom line is know what a calibration will do, and whether that is what you want in your viewing environment. If you like significant "pop" in your picture, you may find that a good calibration removes the attributes you are seeking.

Finally, someone expresses what I see & my friends also.
I want the POP & hate sets I've seen calibrated.
To my eyes they look dull & lifeless. mad.gif
I would have never even bothered to go high def with a picture so drab & dull.
I love the cartoon look. smile.gif
post #2745 of 3272
I agree that a flat-response picture is as boring as flat-response sound.
I used the calibration disc found on this website and hit a happy compromise for all inputs
and for the limitations of the LCD screen and especially the LED light source.
You can have realistic flesh tones, less white and red and magenta clipping and yet have plenty of 'pop'.
Find the limits that the TV bumps up against and set it to allow these without burn-through.
No one wants to watch a cartoon weather gal with a radioactive face, do they?...
post #2746 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post

I agree that a flat-response picture is as boring as flat-response sound.
I used the calibration disc found on this website and hit a happy compromise for all inputs
and for the limitations of the LCD screen and especially the LED light source.
You can have realistic flesh tones, less white and red and magenta clipping and yet have plenty of 'pop'.
Find the limits that the TV bumps up against and set it to allow these without burn-through.
No one wants to watch a cartoon weather gal with a radioactive face, do they?...

I have to admit, there is some truth here. I used Suzooks settings and found them dull and no pop and experimented until the family all liked it.
I will admit, I am using the torch mode and I calm a few things down now rather than to use Suzooks settings that I originally tried for a month.
post #2747 of 3272
Just to be clear, do you see faces with red push while keeping the "pop"? I cannot see how you can find that balance. Can you pls share your settings so I can try them, love to experiment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by usr5000 View Post

I have to admit, there is some truth here. I used Suzooks settings and found them dull and no pop and experimented until the family all liked it.
I will admit, I am using the torch mode and I calm a few things down now rather than to use Suzooks settings that I originally tried for a month.
post #2748 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvzzz View Post

Just to be clear, do you see faces with red push while keeping the "pop"? I cannot see how you can find that balance. Can you pls share your settings so I can try them, love to experiment.

I use Suzooks settings EXCEPT I use Standard mode instead of Movie. Lots of Pop and looks great.
post #2749 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Star56 View Post

I use Suzooks settings EXCEPT I use Standard mode instead of Movie. Lots of Pop and looks great.

Would some kind soul provide the post # of Suzooks settings please?

Thank you!

--Tom
post #2750 of 3272
here Ya Go ! ! ! smile.gif
OPC Off
Backlight +1
Contrast +28
Brightness +1
Color 0
Tint 0
Sharpness 0

Advanced Value
C.M.S. - Hue
R 0
Y +2
G -10
C -9
B 0
M +2

C.M.S. - Saturation
R 0
Y -10
G -5
C 0
B 0
M 0
C.M.S. - Value
R -2
Y -2
G +3
C -18
B +10
M -12
Color Temp. Low
R Gain (LO) +1
G Gain (LO) 0
B Gain (LO) +1
R Gain (HI) 0
G Gain (HI) 0
B Gain (HI) -8
Motion Enhancement 120Hz Lo
Active Contrast Off
Gamma Adjustment 0
Film Mode Off
DNR Off
Monochrome Off
Range of OPC NA
post #2751 of 3272
I received my 632 yesterday. Might have been one of the best days of my life. OK, I am exaggerating but only a little. The panel is stunning!

I changed the picture settings as per Suzooks settings and I like the change......I think. Just to be sure I understand the changes are made in th "User" mode, correct?

Also, how would one begin to experiment with these settings? What would be the game plan?

Furthermore I paid the $260 fee to have the Geek Squad deliver it, haul that monster upstairs, mount it, level it, run the cables through the walls, hook it up, ensure proper operation, vacuum, haul the carton and trash away, and guarantee their work. Heck, I think the mount itself is about $150 and it is included. To me it was well worth it.
post #2752 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebari View Post

I received my 632 yesterday. Might have been one of the best days of my life. OK, I am exaggerating but only a little. The panel is stunning!
I changed the picture settings as per Suzooks settings and I like the change......I think. Just to be sure I understand the changes are made in th "User" mode, correct?
Also, how would one begin to experiment with these settings? What would be the game plan?
Furthermore I paid the $260 fee to have the Geek Squad deliver it, haul that monster upstairs, mount it, level it, run the cables through the walls, hook it up, ensure proper operation, vacuum, haul the carton and trash away, and guarantee their work. Heck, I think the mount itself is about $150 and it is included. To me it was well worth it.

movie mode for Suzooks...
post #2753 of 3272
I actually agree with you, I tried it and it looked better to me with Standard, than Movie, I understand it throws off entire calibration but picture is more live to me with less red. Now onto subject of calibration, how is everyone calibrating for non-standard media players like Dune or Popcorn Hour, they do not comply with BluRay color spec only because they play variety of containers and content, thus making it hard to calibrate them properly but just curious calibration is even possible with Popcorn and Dune? Red is so "pushy" on these sets, I wonder how to fight it with media players.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Star56 View Post

I use Suzooks settings EXCEPT I use Standard mode instead of Movie. Lots of Pop and looks great.
post #2754 of 3272
Hey guys..

Thanks for all the juicy details posted in this thread! Been a lurker for a weeks time now (before I bought my TV), and all the posts made me take take the choice to buy this great TV.. I just moved, and with 5-6 meters viewing distance, I surely needed a big screen - Since it is impossible for me to darken the whole room due to family and so on, a projector definitely wasn't the right choice, hence this set for me - And I absolutely love it! But but frown.gif I'm really not the biggest expert on this subject, and I thought I would try to ask some of you guys if you can help me with my problem..

After using the set for some hours, and finding the correct calibration settings (I've tweaked the settings from one of the first posts in the thread to my likings), some serious clouding began to catch my eye.. I tried to go back to stock settings, but this only made it much much worse (I didn't pay attention to the clouding in the beginning of the setup).. If I set Backlight to -30, then it's still 20-30% visible, and this is a way too low setting for general viewing.. Current is -4.

Since I am no expert, I would like to ask: Is this "normal"? I know clouding is inevitable on some sets, but this seems too extreme to be realistic.. It really bothers my eyes.. Here are some examples:







So, the big question.. Do you guys think there is anything to do? I could understand from some of the 70" owners in the other thread that it seemed as an issue for them also, and also a guy who got an replacement.. Should I contact Sharp regarding this issue? Seems a bit unfair for such a pricey set, if they wouldn't do anything eek.gif

Once again, thanks for a great thread and for making me help taking my decision! My model is the Scandinavian one; LC-80LE646S.

Thanks!

Edit: By the way, I just moved in about 3-4 days ago, so everything is still a mess rolleyes.gif Radiator gets removed in a couple of days, and new furniture on its way also.. Using the Vogels EFW 6445 mount for the set, highly recommended if anyone is curious..
post #2755 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by manola View Post

Hey guys..
Thanks for all the juicy details posted in this thread! Been a lurker for a weeks time now (before I bought my TV), and all the posts made me take take the choice to buy this great TV.. I just moved, and with 5-6 meters viewing distance, I surely needed a big screen - Since it is impossible for me to darken the whole room due to family and so on, a projector definitely wasn't the right choice, hence this set for me - And I absolutely love it! But but frown.gif I'm really not the biggest expert on this subject, and I thought I would try to ask some of you guys if you can help me with my problem..
After using the set for some hours, and finding the correct calibration settings (I've tweaked the settings from one of the first posts in the thread to my likings), some serious clouding began to catch my eye.. I tried to go back to stock settings, but this only made it much much worse (I didn't pay attention to the clouding in the beginning of the setup).. If I set Backlight to -30, then it's still 20-30% visible, and this is a way too low setting for general viewing.. Current is -4.
Since I am no expert, I would like to ask: Is this "normal"? I know clouding is inevitable on some sets, but this seems too extreme to be realistic.. It really bothers my eyes.. Here are some examples:



So, the big question.. Do you guys think there is anything to do? I could understand from some of the 70" owners in the other thread that it seemed as an issue for them also, and also a guy who got an replacement.. Should I contact Sharp regarding this issue? Seems a bit unfair for such a pricey set, if they wouldn't do anything eek.gif
Once again, thanks for a great thread and for making me help taking my decision! My model is the Scandinavian one; LC-80LE646S.
Thanks!
Edit: By the way, I just moved in about 3-4 days ago, so everything is still a mess rolleyes.gif Radiator gets removed in a couple of days, and new furniture on its way also.. Using the Vogels EFW 6445 mount for the set, highly recommended if anyone is curious..

I would replace the display , contact Sharp & start a problem ticket , those photos alone should get you a speedy replacement , that clouding is NOT normal at all
post #2756 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

I would replace the display , contact Sharp & start a problem ticket , those photos alone should get you a speedy replacement , that clouding is NOT normal at all
I agree. I've had quite a few sets with varying degrees of clouding. This set is the best by far and to my eyes exhibits essentially ZERO clouding. I have my TV in standard mode with -3 back-light and am thoroughly pleased with this set after more than a year of ownership. No regrets. Best set I've ever had even ignoring the size. I concur that your set is NOT typical and Sharp should replace it.
post #2757 of 3272
FYI, I just mounted one of these using the following $18 mount from monoprice,

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082807&p_id=3610&seq=1&format=2

I originally purchased it 5 years ago for my Mitsubishi 52" and it fortunately ended up also working for the Sharp 80"

A good no thrills simple wall mount.
post #2758 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

I agree. I've had quite a few sets with varying degrees of clouding. This set is the best by far and to my eyes exhibits essentially ZERO clouding. I have my TV in standard mode with -3 back-light and am thoroughly pleased with this set after more than a year of ownership. No regrets. Best set I've ever had even ignoring the size. I concur that your set is NOT typical and Sharp should replace it.
Yes best display I've ever had
I would / will keep this display until I see a HUGE difference in any newer display , I am Very Happy with mine smile.gif
When I put up a dark screen as the one in the photos I have a even darkness across the whole screen . I have None of that clouding that is present on the photos above , at any setting .
post #2759 of 3272
Have an is issue with. My 80LE632U where the picture will momentarily turn off, sound stays on, and input is shown in the upper right corner. Swapped inputs, turned off power saving, and unplugged the unit with no change. I have a video on my iPad if anyone wants to see...
post #2760 of 3272
Have an is issue with. My 80LE632U where the picture will momentarily turn off, sound stays on, and input is shown in the upper right corner. Swapped inputs, turned off power saving, and unplugged the unit with no change. I have a video on my iPad if anyone wants to see...
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