or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread - Page 95

post #2821 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

Best Buy is including this mount with their installation.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sanus+-+Tilting+Wall+Mount+for+Most+37%22+-+90%22+Flat-Panel+TVs+-+Black/5689073.p?id=1218685673865&skuId=5689073
Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with BB's installations?

This is the mount I used but I paid $129
post #2822 of 3272
If you want a flat mount get the sanus LL11b 70 bucks
post #2823 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacbeth View Post

Set is beautiful. Using Suzook settings with some minor adjustments to suit my taste. "have red hue at +8 and red saturation at -12" posted my someone, and brightness at +5.which helps my eye with skin tones.. This is on cable, will see if I like with other inputs.
I found with my 80-632U that if I used a brightness setting higher than +1 it raised the black floor level. You may want to find some dark scenes or just have it on an input with nothing turned on and check your brightness setting again (in a darkened room, of course). On the Standard and Custom setting it definitely made the black a lighter shade.
post #2824 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

there been a couple guys who got that mount from MonoPrice , thought it was too flimsy & a got Sanus
these are large displays & the shear size puts a lot of torque that will cause flexing .
do you really want a to put a expensive item on a cheap mount ? rolleyes.gif
I'm one of them. I tried the Monoprice 8588 and although it is rated at 175 Lbs. the front mounting plate flexed a great deal when my 80-632 was mounted. There is a higher priced mount which apparently works quite well, but I don't recommend the 8588 type. I also settled with a Sanus VMDD26B mount. Fantastic quality, built like a tank (weighs over 60 Lbs!) and great value at under 200.00. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued but there are still a few floating around - saw some on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. I've attached a picture of the 8588. This type of mount should be avoided with this size TV.smile.gif
post #2825 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

I found with my 80-632U that if I used a brightness setting higher than +1 it raised the black floor level. You may want to find some dark scenes or just have it on an input with nothing turned on and check your brightness setting again (in a darkened room, of course). On the Standard and Custom setting it definitely made the black a lighter shade.

My blacks seem to have held well with brightness 5. I just turned color down to minus -1 which has helped remove a little more of the red skin tones. Will try these for awhile to see what happens. I have copied your settings and may try later if I become unsatisfied..
Edited by dacbeth - 1/6/13 at 7:18am
post #2826 of 3272
Just wondering...

How would I calibrate the set without an expensive suite of equipment?

I do have the WOW disk, and am somewhat satisfied with the backlight, contrast and brightness settings (1/28/1).

I'm specifically referring to the CMS hue, saturation and value settings on the *632.

Thanks in advance.

--Tom
post #2827 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

I'm one of them. I tried the Monoprice 8588 and although it is rated at 175 Lbs. the front mounting plate flexed a great deal when my 80-632 was mounted. There is a higher priced mount which apparently works quite well, but I don't recommend the 8588 type. I also settled with a Sanus VMDD26B mount. Fantastic quality, built like a tank (weighs over 60 Lbs!) and great value at under 200.00. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued but there are still a few floating around - saw some on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. I've attached a picture of the 8588. This type of mount should be avoided with this size TV.smile.gif


Thanks for the mount-related feedback all. I have four TVs (one LCD and three plasmas) mounted throughout my main living floor and I think all are on monoprice mounts (and all connected to the same DVR using monoprice HDMI cables and monoprice amplifiers). I am surpised that people have had issues with their mounts. Each one of mine has been contrusted of seemingly quality steel and worked perfectly. Though those telescoping ones have always made me a little nervous, and thus, I have stayed away from them and only ordered basic flat or tilting mounts.

That Sanus one for only $70 seems like a good compromise, but I'll let you know what I ultimately get and how it works.


I am under the impression that mounting it so the center of screen is at eye level (~42" inches off the ground with my couch) is ideal. Is that correct?


Thanks
Edited by goodkd - 1/6/13 at 8:55am
post #2828 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

Best Buy is including this mount with their installation.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sanus+-+Tilting+Wall+Mount+for+Most+37%22+-+90%22+Flat-Panel+TVs+-+Black/5689073.p?id=1218685673865&skuId=5689073
Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with BB's installations?

I had BB (Magnolia) install my Panny 60" in our family room. I had no complaints. I recently removed the 60" and mount for the 80" and a new mount. The 60" went in our living room.

I also had them run speaker wire for my 4 ceiling surround speakers. I have very high vaulted ceilings.
post #2829 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodkd View Post

Thanks for the mount-related feedback all. I have four TVs (one LCD and three plasmas) mounted throughout my main living floor and I think all are on monoprice mounts (and all connected to the same DVR using monoprice HDMI cables and monoprice amplifiers). I am surpised that people have had issues with their mounts. Each one of mine has been contrusted of seemingly quality steel and worked perfectly. Though those telescoping ones have always made me a little nervous, and thus, I have stayed away from them and only ordered basic flat or tilting mounts.
That Sanus one for only $70 seems like a good compromise, but I'll let you know what I ultimately get and how it works.
I am under the impression that mounting it so the center of screen is at eye level (~42" inches off the ground with my couch) is ideal. Is that correct?
Thanks
That makes sense, but that would leave the bottom of the frame barely 20" off the ground. Does that leave room for all your stuff? I have mine slightly higher - 23" and tilted very slightly downward. That makes for a very comfortable long-term viewing experience. I found out the hard way some years ago when I mounted my 100" screen at ceiling level (96"). Didn't take long till I had to drop it substantially - it was just too uncomfortable.
post #2830 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

That makes sense, but that would leave the bottom of the frame barely 20" off the ground. Does that leave room for all your stuff? I have mine slightly higher - 23" and tilted very slightly downward. That makes for a very comfortable long-term viewing experience. I found out the hard way some years ago when I mounted my 100" screen at ceiling level (96"). Didn't take long till I had to drop it substantially - it was just too uncomfortable.

I think if I were to sit upright that 2 feet off the ground would not be bad but since I am always reclined back in a Home Theater Recliner, I have found that having my tv 4 ft off the ground at 11 ft away is perfect for us.
post #2831 of 3272
I'm got the display @ 32 inches bottom edge from the floor ,back 11ft & with my recliner @ 3/4 the way back & the display @ 2 degree downward tilt is great for me wink.gif

as I have neck issues ( whiplash ) from a rear ender accident & need to keep my neck in neutral position , small pillow behind my head & i'm go to go all day & night without fatigue of any kind . smile.gif
I have a Huge center speaker ( 15" woofer & a 2 foot wide horn ) aimed slightly up & the devices are off to the side cool.gif

everyone issues are different , BUT it is important to Not Crane your neck tongue.gif
post #2832 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

I'm got the display @ 32 inches bottom edge from the floor ,back 11ft & with my recliner @ 3/4 the way back & the display @ 2 degree downward tilt is great for me wink.gif
as I have neck issues ( whiplash ) from a rear ender accident & need to keep my neck in neutral position , small pillow behind my head & i'm go to go all day & night without fatigue of any kind . smile.gif
I have a Huge center speaker ( 15" woofer & a 2 foot wide horn ) aimed slightly up & the devices are off to the side cool.gif
everyone issues are different , BUT it is important to Not Crane your neck tongue.gif
Good point. I found it also very important for your eyes to be focused at a relaxed height. Another words, if you're standing, a relaxed eye is naturally focused on the horizon. If you keep your head in the same position and raise your eyes to look at mountain tops, your eyes will fatigue fairly quickly. So, yes........if your natural state when viewing, is for your body and head to be reclined backwards then the screen can be correspondingly higher without increasing fatigue.
biggrin.gif
post #2833 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzook View Post

here are some shared by a very good friend


OPC Off

Backlight +1

Contrast +28

Brightness +1

Color 0

Tint 0

Sharpness 0


Advanced Value

C.M.S. - Hue

R 0

Y +2

G -10

C -9

B 0

M +2


C.M.S. - Saturation

R 0

Y -10

G -5

C 0

B 0

M 0

C.M.S. - Value

R -2

Y -2

G +3

C -18

B +10

M -12

Color Temp. Low

R Gain (LO) +1

G Gain (LO) 0

B Gain (LO) +1

R Gain (HI) 0

G Gain (HI) 0

B Gain (HI) -8

Motion Enhancement 120Hz Lo

Active Contrast Off

Gamma Adjustment 0

Film Mode Off

DNR Off

Monochrome Off

Range of OPC NA


Awesome - I finally read far enough into this thread to find the Suzook settings! wink.gif

Can someone tell me if this is for a specific mode? (e.g., standard, movie, game)
post #2834 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

That makes sense, but that would leave the bottom of the frame barely 20" off the ground. Does that leave room for all your stuff? I have mine slightly higher - 23" and tilted very slightly downward. That makes for a very comfortable long-term viewing experience. I found out the hard way some years ago when I mounted my 100" screen at ceiling level (96"). Didn't take long till I had to drop it substantially - it was just too uncomfortable.



It would leave room as all my equipment will be off to the side. BUT, i taped off the outline and it just looked plain silly sittiing that close the ground. Plus, anyone one the hightop tables behin my couches would be very uncomortable viewing the big games.


Currently, I'm planning on trying it with the bottom at 31" off the ground with NO tilt. We'll see.............
post #2835 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodkd View Post

Awesome - I finally read far enough into this thread to find the Suzook settings! wink.gif
Can someone tell me if this is for a specific mode? (e.g., standard, movie, game)

I believe this is for movie mode.
post #2836 of 3272
Thanks Eagle, that is what I will try then!
post #2837 of 3272
Not wanting to read the whole thread, how is this set? I would be coming from a LG Infinia 55 LE8500.
post #2838 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin. W View Post

Not wanting to read the whole thread, how is this set? I would be coming from a LG Infinia 55 LE8500.
Not wanting to type too much - pretty darn good.smile.gif
post #2839 of 3272
Tomorrow's my big day!! My friend brought up the point as to how they would get the wires through the wall past any studs without tearing out all my sheetrock. Does anyone know how that works?
post #2840 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

Tomorrow's my big day!! My friend brought up the point as to how they would get the wires through the wall past any studs without tearing out all my sheetrock. Does anyone know how that works?

A typical solution would be to fish the wires in the ceiling. If your joists go in the right direction (front to back), you might not need to drill through very many of them, you'd just make small holes to be able to do the fishing and that's it. For any studs or joists you do need to cut through, the installers I talked to for my setup were saying they'd have to cut a small channel next to each joist which would then need to be patched and the ceiling repainted for it to look right again. You would then drill a hole through each stud/joist to put the wires through. That's basically the worst case, you have a small cut every couple of feet and then you refill and repaint.

In my case I discovered a relatively open run along one side of my basement up near the ceiling, so I just cut a hole through the wall on that side and fished the wires myself. The wall in the rear was adjoining an unfinished area, so mounting the rear speakers was easy from there.

The other option would be a wireless receiver for the rear speakers, but depending on how much of an audiophile you are, that may or may not be acceptable quality, it can be pricey, and you'd need a power source in the rear.

The final option would be to run the wires over the wall (perhaps under a cover, painted the same color as the wall), or under the baseboard if there is room. That can have a very low WAF.
post #2841 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodkd View Post

Thanks Eagle, that is what I will try then!

How's it look?
post #2842 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

Tomorrow's my big day!! My friend brought up the point as to how they would get the wires through the wall past any studs without tearing out all my sheetrock. Does anyone know how that works?
Sure - nothing to it (vertical drops only). Make a hole where you want the wires to go in. Cover with a plate when done. Feed cables with stiff guide wires or rod (metal coat hanger or 14-2 wiring or ?) to another hole you've made at your exit point. Cover that with another plate when done. Make sure you run the wires through the plates first! I once had to feed wires 7 feet from the ceiling to 1 foot from the floor so I had to make a transition hole half way down, which I plastered up when done (3" square) using an inserted wooden strip to screw the 3" piece back on. that was 5 yrs ago and still looks perfect - no cracks!
post #2843 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

Sure - nothing to it (vertical drops only). Make a hole where you want the wires to go in. Cover with a plate when done. Feed cables with stiff guide wires or rod (metal coat hanger or 14-2 wiring or ?) to another hole you've made at your exit point. Cover that with another plate when done. Make sure you run the wires through the plates first! I once had to feed wires 7 feet from the ceiling to 1 foot from the floor so I had to make a transition hole half way down, which I plastered up when done (3" square) using an inserted wooden strip to screw the 3" piece back on. that was 5 yrs ago and still looks perfect - no cracks!

It wont be verticle only... my receiver, cable box, and PS3 are going to be below and to the left or right (which ever side the inputs are on... can someone tell me?) of the TV. It will be like diagonally down... no more than 1.5 ft to the side though.
post #2844 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

How's it look?

TV is still in shipping - will try when it arrives. wink.gif
post #2845 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

It wont be verticle only... my receiver, cable box, and PS3 are going to be below and to the left or right (which ever side the inputs are on... can someone tell me?) of the TV. It will be like diagonally down... no more than 1.5 ft to the side though.
redo the base boards so that they are really tunnels that the wire run thru . Think a simple box that is really long , that is running along the floor where the wall meets the floor ,between the units
post #2846 of 3272
Does anyone have an issue with stuck pixels? I have about 24 spread mostly around the edges. They are not noticable from 12 feet where I sit, but they are there. I tried hooking it up to a computer and running one of those programs which color cycles the screen rapidly for about 20 minutes but it didn't get rid of them.
post #2847 of 3272
Those stuck pixel programs don't work from my experience. I had two on an iMac and what fixed the stuck pixel issue was exchanging it for a new one. I would return the TV if you can or contact Sharp.
post #2848 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

Tomorrow's my big day!! My friend brought up the point as to how they would get the wires through the wall past any studs without tearing out all my sheetrock. Does anyone know how that works?

I just remodeled my front living room. New sheetrock, insulation, paint, furniture, etc. I have a 60" Panasonic plasma that was in my back family room which was replaced with the 80" sharp. It got too much glare from my windows so I moved it to the newly remodeled front living room. I had to run HDMI's and add a plug behind the plasma.

For me it was fairly easy as there were no walls, just bare studs, but I did have a fire break (believe it's called that) I had to get through. Basically all I did was cut a channel. I used a sawzall and made a few cuts to the fire break. Then I used a chisel to get the wood out. Hung the sheetrock and fished the HDMI's. Simple as that. If you have sheetrock already up and you have to go through a fire break, your going to have to remove some sheetrock. Not that big of a deal, but just other steps that have to be done.

I would suggest that if you do not plan to run a surround system amp and only use the HDMI's from your TV, run the same amount of HDMI cables as your TV has, NOW. If you don't, you will have to fish other HDMI's later and you will kick yourself for not doing it now. If you run a surround system amp, it only needs one from your set. Also, run any extra wires you think you might need like component, audio cables, etc. Running these cables now, assures you that when the time comes when you want to add something later (BR player, PS3, video camera), you have what you need ready to go. An alternative to spending $$$ on cables that will not be used now is running some kite string or something similar. Run a few of them so if you need to fish anything through, the string is already there.

The plasma I talked about earlier was ran though a Denon 7.1 amp in the back living room. I decided it was not necessary for all that in the front living room so I ran two HDMI cables. That's all the plasma had.

Here are two pics.

The newly remodeled front living room with 60" plasma.


The back living room with the 80".
post #2849 of 3272
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle CT View Post

It wont be verticle only... my receiver, cable box, and PS3 are going to be below and to the left or right (which ever side the inputs are on... can someone tell me?) of the TV. It will be like diagonally down... no more than 1.5 ft to the side though.
Once you're down to floor level, after a vertical drop, it's easy to route the wire under your baseboard or whatever. I've got some going 12' to the right and 8' to the left. Nothing shows. Piece of cake. Unless you rip down the gyp-rock, I can't think of any way to run wires diagonally or horizontally inside the wall.
post #2850 of 3272
DSE mitigation for the *632 series?

I notice that, on any input, I seem to have a fuzzy, clouding, less focused picture since we bought the set a year ago.

Color, tint, etc are fine (per common settings in these threads like turning off motion, active contrast, film effect etc), and seems correct. Have also checked this in most modes (standard, game, movie etc).

However, on Blue Ray, Satellite, TV off the air, the set seems to have a "sheen" on it.

Almost like the traditional Dirty Screen Effect?

Anyone experience this, and more importantly, any resolution?

--Tom
Edited by vdoefx - 1/10/13 at 3:24am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread