Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread - Page 95

I have purchased and installed several wall mounts from Monoprice. They were inexpensive, but NOT cheap.

I agree 100%.
I bought a Sanus for $129.00

This is the mount I used but I paid $129

If you want a flat mount get the sanus LL11b 70 bucks

I found with my 80-632U that if I used a brightness setting higher than +1 it raised the black floor level. You may want to find some dark scenes or just have it on an input with nothing turned on and check your brightness setting again (in a darkened room, of course). On the Standard and Custom setting it definitely made the black a lighter shade.

I'm one of them. I tried the Monoprice 8588 and although it is rated at 175 Lbs. the front mounting plate flexed a great deal when my 80-632 was mounted. There is a higher priced mount which apparently works quite well, but I don't recommend the 8588 type. I also settled with a Sanus VMDD26B mount. Fantastic quality, built like a tank (weighs over 60 Lbs!) and great value at under 200.00. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued but there are still a few floating around - saw some on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. I've attached a picture of the 8588. This type of mount should be avoided with this size TV.

My blacks seem to have held well with brightness 5. I just turned color down to minus -1 which has helped remove a little more of the red skin tones. Will try these for awhile to see what happens. I have copied your settings and may try later if I become unsatisfied..
Edited by dacbeth - 1/6/13 at 7:18am

Just wondering...

How would I calibrate the set without an expensive suite of equipment?

I do have the WOW disk, and am somewhat satisfied with the backlight, contrast and brightness settings (1/28/1).

I'm specifically referring to the CMS hue, saturation and value settings on the *632.

Thanks in advance.

--Tom

Thanks for the mount-related feedback all. I have four TVs (one LCD and three plasmas) mounted throughout my main living floor and I think all are on monoprice mounts (and all connected to the same DVR using monoprice HDMI cables and monoprice amplifiers). I am surpised that people have had issues with their mounts. Each one of mine has been contrusted of seemingly quality steel and worked perfectly. Though those telescoping ones have always made me a little nervous, and thus, I have stayed away from them and only ordered basic flat or tilting mounts.

That Sanus one for only $70 seems like a good compromise, but I'll let you know what I ultimately get and how it works.


I am under the impression that mounting it so the center of screen is at eye level (~42" inches off the ground with my couch) is ideal. Is that correct?


Thanks
Edited by goodkd - 1/6/13 at 8:55am

I had BB (Magnolia) install my Panny 60" in our family room. I had no complaints. I recently removed the 60" and mount for the 80" and a new mount. The 60" went in our living room.

I also had them run speaker wire for my 4 ceiling surround speakers. I have very high vaulted ceilings.

That makes sense, but that would leave the bottom of the frame barely 20" off the ground. Does that leave room for all your stuff? I have mine slightly higher - 23" and tilted very slightly downward. That makes for a very comfortable long-term viewing experience. I found out the hard way some years ago when I mounted my 100" screen at ceiling level (96"). Didn't take long till I had to drop it substantially - it was just too uncomfortable.

I think if I were to sit upright that 2 feet off the ground would not be bad but since I am always reclined back in a Home Theater Recliner, I have found that having my tv 4 ft off the ground at 11 ft away is perfect for us.

I'm got the display @ 32 inches bottom edge from the floor ,back 11ft & with my recliner @ 3/4 the way back & the display @ 2 degree downward tilt is great for me

as I have neck issues ( whiplash ) from a rear ender accident & need to keep my neck in neutral position , small pillow behind my head & i'm go to go all day & night without fatigue of any kind .
I have a Huge center speaker ( 15" woofer & a 2 foot wide horn ) aimed slightly up & the devices are off to the side

everyone issues are different , BUT it is important to Not Crane your neck

Good point. I found it also very important for your eyes to be focused at a relaxed height. Another words, if you're standing, a relaxed eye is naturally focused on the horizon. If you keep your head in the same position and raise your eyes to look at mountain tops, your eyes will fatigue fairly quickly. So, yes........if your natural state when viewing, is for your body and head to be reclined backwards then the screen can be correspondingly higher without increasing fatigue.

Awesome - I finally read far enough into this thread to find the Suzook settings!

Can someone tell me if this is for a specific mode? (e.g., standard, movie, game)

It would leave room as all my equipment will be off to the side. BUT, i taped off the outline and it just looked plain silly sittiing that close the ground. Plus, anyone one the hightop tables behin my couches would be very uncomortable viewing the big games.


Currently, I'm planning on trying it with the bottom at 31" off the ground with NO tilt. We'll see.............

I believe this is for movie mode.

Thanks Eagle, that is what I will try then!

Not wanting to read the whole thread, how is this set? I would be coming from a LG Infinia 55 LE8500.

Not wanting to type too much - pretty darn good.

Tomorrow's my big day!! My friend brought up the point as to how they would get the wires through the wall past any studs without tearing out all my sheetrock. Does anyone know how that works?

A typical solution would be to fish the wires in the ceiling. If your joists go in the right direction (front to back), you might not need to drill through very many of them, you'd just make small holes to be able to do the fishing and that's it. For any studs or joists you do need to cut through, the installers I talked to for my setup were saying they'd have to cut a small channel next to each joist which would then need to be patched and the ceiling repainted for it to look right again. You would then drill a hole through each stud/joist to put the wires through. That's basically the worst case, you have a small cut every couple of feet and then you refill and repaint.

In my case I discovered a relatively open run along one side of my basement up near the ceiling, so I just cut a hole through the wall on that side and fished the wires myself. The wall in the rear was adjoining an unfinished area, so mounting the rear speakers was easy from there.

The other option would be a wireless receiver for the rear speakers, but depending on how much of an audiophile you are, that may or may not be acceptable quality, it can be pricey, and you'd need a power source in the rear.

The final option would be to run the wires over the wall (perhaps under a cover, painted the same color as the wall), or under the baseboard if there is room. That can have a very low WAF.

How's it look?

Sure - nothing to it (vertical drops only). Make a hole where you want the wires to go in. Cover with a plate when done. Feed cables with stiff guide wires or rod (metal coat hanger or 14-2 wiring or ?) to another hole you've made at your exit point. Cover that with another plate when done. Make sure you run the wires through the plates first! I once had to feed wires 7 feet from the ceiling to 1 foot from the floor so I had to make a transition hole half way down, which I plastered up when done (3" square) using an inserted wooden strip to screw the 3" piece back on. that was 5 yrs ago and still looks perfect - no cracks!

It wont be verticle only... my receiver, cable box, and PS3 are going to be below and to the left or right (which ever side the inputs are on... can someone tell me?) of the TV. It will be like diagonally down... no more than 1.5 ft to the side though.

TV is still in shipping - will try when it arrives.

redo the base boards so that they are really tunnels that the wire run thru . Think a simple box that is really long , that is running along the floor where the wall meets the floor ,between the units

Does anyone have an issue with stuck pixels? I have about 24 spread mostly around the edges. They are not noticable from 12 feet where I sit, but they are there. I tried hooking it up to a computer and running one of those programs which color cycles the screen rapidly for about 20 minutes but it didn't get rid of them.

Those stuck pixel programs don't work from my experience. I had two on an iMac and what fixed the stuck pixel issue was exchanging it for a new one. I would return the TV if you can or contact Sharp.

I just remodeled my front living room. New sheetrock, insulation, paint, furniture, etc. I have a 60" Panasonic plasma that was in my back family room which was replaced with the 80" sharp. It got too much glare from my windows so I moved it to the newly remodeled front living room. I had to run HDMI's and add a plug behind the plasma.

For me it was fairly easy as there were no walls, just bare studs, but I did have a fire break (believe it's called that) I had to get through. Basically all I did was cut a channel. I used a sawzall and made a few cuts to the fire break. Then I used a chisel to get the wood out. Hung the sheetrock and fished the HDMI's. Simple as that. If you have sheetrock already up and you have to go through a fire break, your going to have to remove some sheetrock. Not that big of a deal, but just other steps that have to be done.

I would suggest that if you do not plan to run a surround system amp and only use the HDMI's from your TV, run the same amount of HDMI cables as your TV has, NOW. If you don't, you will have to fish other HDMI's later and you will kick yourself for not doing it now. If you run a surround system amp, it only needs one from your set. Also, run any extra wires you think you might need like component, audio cables, etc. Running these cables now, assures you that when the time comes when you want to add something later (BR player, PS3, video camera), you have what you need ready to go. An alternative to spending $$$ on cables that will not be used now is running some kite string or something similar. Run a few of them so if you need to fish anything through, the string is already there.

The plasma I talked about earlier was ran though a Denon 7.1 amp in the back living room. I decided it was not necessary for all that in the front living room so I ran two HDMI cables. That's all the plasma had.

Here are two pics.

The newly remodeled front living room with 60" plasma.


The back living room with the 80".