Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread - Page 105

I thought about it but I am still in the middle of my basement finish and I have crap everywhere (downstairs and up)

I have 90 days to return to Costco so figure I have some time

The problem I have now is I planned my speaker locations etc for the 70" Sharp



Now they don't fit but I think I can shift the left speaker over to the next space but my center channel will be off centered about 4". already have everything painted......

New layout





I not sure if I would notice that much, I am painting the speakers to match the walls.....

Consensus????

Thanks,

Mike

You Really should open the box , remove the upper box ( the lower box the display sits in a syro "cradle " ) plug the display in & test to see if there are defects . Reason Why ? ? ? is that there might not be any 80" 632 displays left at Costco to exchange with .

I will try hooking it up this weekend, I just noticed with 8' ceilings I can't even remove the upper box unless I tilt it lol

Thanks for the tip

Is it just me, or does anyone else go to the movies and think..I can't wait until this comes out on Bluray and I can watch it at home on my 80?

I will take it one better, I cant wait for it to release on VUDU so I can watch it in HDX.

Yep ! with my 9 channels of sound, dual subs & 80"er ,I haven't gone to a Movie Theater since I got mine
watched "The Avengers" in Blu-Ray last night , $1.50 RedBox rental with a 50 cent off coupon . . . 1 dollar total cost

Hey Fastslappy, I have read and experenced from renting Netflix BD disks that they often come with only DD 5.1 sound and not DTS Mastered.
I own the Avengers BD and it is DTS HD Master.
Did your RedBox rental have DTS HD Mastered or just DD 5.1?

See this thread for more information on Rental VS Bought disks. Seems to be hit or miss if its a stripped down disk or not:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430959/netflix-bds-without-dts-hd-master-audio-dd-5-1-instead

With your sound setup I'd hate for you to be missing out on a lot of sound information!

yeah it's hit or miss but I find Universal to be the rental that Always is a crippled copy .
The Advengers rental was full feature (great extras also) & I was knocking items off the wife's nicknack shelves , as for if it was DTS or just DD I didn't look at the specs .
BUT the DTS light was on in the Onkyo display (that only lites up if a movie is encoded DTS), so I feel it was . The sound track was killer .
as for buying these flicks , I would only buy after seeing a rental anyway , If it's a movie that I know I'll watch again I'll buy it , but really with a Comic Book movie nah It's fun only once to me .
RedBox sometimes will buy outright retail movies if the studios do not give them a decent deal & I have 5 RedBox within a mile of the house so I dropped NetFlix due to the lag in the mail & the fact that sometimes a Netflix disk would sit for days before I watched it . Redbox I can reserve online ,find the movie drive over,P/U & watch that night . sometimes I'll go 2 months without renting anything . So Netflix wasn't cost effective for me . I have Amazon Prime for purchases , so if I stream Amazon is really free to me . PQ on Amazon is great as well on my connection . Netflix not very good ,lot of buffering .

one note with RedBox I know when a title I want to see will be released ( they email me ) so that morning of a release I put in a reservation & get a virgin copy on the 1st day . works like a charm

I just got this set delivered today for our TV room, I was wondering. I have a HDMI running up through the wall from the Receiver to the tv, but as this is a smart tv and itself could be handling a media am I going to need cables running down to the receiver as the tv can be the source? Any advice on to what extra wires I would need to run? i would hate to have to remove this set from the wall once it is up there

You will need to enable the Audio Return Channel on your receiver, and aquos link on your tv if you watch over the air content and want audio from your AV system. And connect HDMI out from your receiver to HDMI 1 on the television. Or, connect your devices to your receiver, and connect an HDMI cable to your TV.

Thanks, I dont think my Pioneer 925 has a Audio return channel or at least I couldn't see it. Looks like i need to go the Optical cable route, which seems a bit strange that you cant use a digital coax cable instead, almost dated. Is the Aquos Link strictly related to the Audio Return?

My LC80LE632U from Costco.com is set to arrive today. I'm glad I ordered when I did because it's no longer on their site.

I need some help with a mounting question. I'm going to use a Kanto FMX3 wall mount. Is there an easy way to figure out at what height to position the template for drilling based on where you want the top of the TV to be positioned?

Thank you !!

I don't think so. I use the optical out to the receiver and it works fine. BTW, to me it seems like Toslink is the more common digital standard now and digital coax is sort of dying off.

edit: Maybe not though..I took a quick peek at the Home Theater Receivers on BestBuy and they all seemed to have the same number of digital coax and toslink inputs.
Edited by jcantanixon - 5/9/13 at 12:16pm

Pioneer calls their HDMI CEC function Control with HDMI, or Kuro Link;

Page 65 of the VSX-925 user manual:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Home/VSX-925_OperatingInstructions0518.pdf

Synchronized operations below with a Control
with HDMI-compatible Pioneer TV or Blu-ray
disc player or with a component of another
make that supports the Control with HDM
functions are possible when the component is
connected to the receiver using an HDMI cable.
• The receiver’s volume can be set and the
sound can be muted using the TV’s remote
control.
• The receiver’s input switches over
automatically when the TV’s channel is
changed or a Control with HDMI-
compatible component is played.
• The receiver’s power is also set to standby,
when the TV’s power is set to standby.

Sharp calls their version of HDMI CEC Aquos Link, and it does work in tandem with the audio return channel.

http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/59877/hdmi-cec

Definition of:HDMI CEC

(HDMI Consumer Electronics Control) A control function that lets one A/V component control another if they are connected via HDMI cables. For example, inserting a disc into the DVD player would turn on the TV automatically or the A/V receiver, if part of the system. Using proprietary brand names, HDMI CEC initially worked only when components were from the same vendor. Increasingly, HDMI CEC works across vendors' products. See HDMI.


HDMI CEC
Branding Vendor

Anynet Samsung

BRAVIA Sync Sony

KURO Link Pioneer

NetCommand Mitsubishi

REGZA-LINK Toshiba

RIHD (Remote
Interactive
over HDMI) Onkyo

SimpLink LG

Thanks for all the info, I ran the optical wire anyway rather than have to try to run it later, I will give the CEC a go later tonight
Edited by pgodden - 5/9/13 at 8:56pm

it's best to run "Every" option of wire that is there is out there as well as a extra HDMI (in case of failure OR if & when PIP ever comes back )

Just so . . . . . "you never know you'll need till you do "
don't forget a eithernet cable as well

I have another question though, is anyone using this TV for Gaming? Specifically Call of Duty, to me it doesn't look even close to as good as the LG plasma I swapped it out for. Maybe I am missing something as I have only had it running for two days but if anyone has any suggestions as far as settings for gaming or feedback I would appreciate it.

I also notice that watching Hockey tonight, the puck has motion blur behind it when going down the ice, the image itself is great but again maybe a setting I need to take care of

Under picture settings go to advanced and turn off motion enhancement and film mode to remove the motion blur. I do a lot of gaming on mine. My old plasma has better picture quality, but its impossible to get an 80 inch plasma without spending an amount far far out my range.

I purchased the 632u a couple of weeks ago for my home theater set up. $3300 at BB was too good to pass up. I also purchased the Sonos "surround" package of playbar, sub, and two Play:3's mounted in the rear. This is where I'm running into problems. I'm trying to get a true 5.1 signal, but only getting stereo. If anyone has run a set up similar to this or has any suggestions, I'd really like some help.

I ordered the Monoprice HDMI Switcher w/ TOSLink optical output and ran the optical cable from the switch to playbar. So the STB/PS3 is feeding into switch, video is traveling over HDMI to TV and audio over optical to playbar. I'm getting audio out of all components, but no matter what source I choose, I'm not getting 5.1. I've tried Bluray's, regular HD programming, HBO HD, even a DVR of Snow White and the Huntsmen that has an information box before the movie saying 5.1 Dolby Digital where available. Maybe it's Dolby TrueHD but I doubt it since it's over cable.

I previously had a regular HDMI switch passing audio from HDMI, but not being able to get a true 5.1 signal was irritating, so I purchased the Monoprice one and ran the optical cable. Any ideas on what I'm missing here? I've toggled the 2 channel stereo and 5.1 channel back and forth on the switch. Both produce the same thing in Sonos app under Playbar, "Audio In: Stereo."
Edit/Delete Message

I know this isn't what you're asking, but I would maybe try running the optical from the PS3 straight to the soundbar to verify that it can accept and process a 5.1 signal. Remember to check the settings on the PS3 and make sure that the Audio Output Settings is set to Optical Digital. The PS3 will only output a digital signal over HDMI or Optical, not both. If it's set to HDMI, then the PS3 will only output 2ch over the Optical and vice-versa. Get it to work that way first, then try to duplicate the results through the HDMI switch. HTH.

Update: Had to change the source output (STB) to Surround to get it to send 5.1. Getting 5.1 DD on all HD channels now.

The PS3 is a different story. I messed with all the different audio output settings, but never got it to send a 5.1 signal. The PS3 is sending it's signal over HDMI to the switch, so whenever I set it to optical and changed the output, I had zero audio. Makes sense. So the rest of my changes were on the HDMI setting. My test movie was Iron Man BD, which is encoded in 5.1 DD TrueHD in English, and regular 5.1 DD French/Spanish. From my understanding, TrueHD and DTS-Master Audio are lossless audio formats and can only be sent over HDMI, not optical. So it would make sense that the PS3 downmixes the feed to stereo for the English version. However for Spanish/French, I was expecting a 5.1 DD signal, but never got it. Another awesome (/sarcasm) feature of the Sonos Playbar is it doesn't support DTS. Anything that comes in over DTS gets automatically downmixed to PCM. It's under consideration by Sonos to update the firmware for DTS support, but currently does not work. I tried a torrent of ripped Game of Thrones that was streamed over PS3 media server, and only got stereo as well, but I didn't check the audio encode of the rip so it could have been any number of things wrong with this test.

Another side effect of running the audio straight to Playbar and bypassing TV, is the addition of audio delay. Apparently the TV takes a few hundred milliseconds longer to process the video signal than the playbar takes to process the audio signal, so no matter the source, I get lip sync issues. The Playbar has a built in audio delay setting, but even maxed out it wasn't making up the difference. After some research, I found a suggestion of turning the Audio Compression off in the Sonos controller settings, and when coupled with the Playbar's built-in audio delay, I finally got the video and audio to match up.

When I originally went into BB and started talking about different 5.1 options for my HT setup, I was told how intuitive and easy the set up Sonos was for getting badass sounding 5.1. My fault for not doing prior research, but the amount of extra time and work I've had to spend on this is definitely not "intuitive and easy." I would say the majority of TV's Do Not pass 5.1 through their optical from an HDMI source, which is currently the only "supported" format Sonos recognizes. If you've got rabbit ears or an internal TV tuner, more power to you. But I would wager the vast majority of people have their source over HDMI. So not only do I have to buy a switch with optical out and run a 50 foot cable over my ceiling, but then I found out the Playbar doesn't support DTS and optical doesn't carry the signal for DD TrueHD or Master Audio. So even if Sonos patches the firmware, I still won't be getting lossless audio unless they release a different Playbar next year or whenever that has HDMI input. And then I'll have to buy another switch with multiple HDMI outputs, one for the TV and one for the Playbar.

TL:DR - Sonos' first attempt at Home Theater 5.1 is not for audiophiles. I enjoy it for other reasons like the ability to add different zones around the house, lack of speaker wires, and being able to control everything from a smart phone/tablet. And admittedly, the audio sounds pretty damn good, even in stereo. But for the true purists out there, until Sonos gets their **** together and updates firmware or puts out a Playbar with HDMI in, look elsewhere for your HT audio solution.

your 1st mistake was listening & trusting to what a Best Buy employee has to say .
not meaning to crack on you , but a lesson learned here .
Any product that does not have a HDMI input/output is just not a product that should be considered for any HT or other wise .

plus those Sonos are not cheap in price but cheap in value

Ok... I still think this 80 inch is Cool, the gaming not so much but hey it's 80 inch.
My newest challenge is that using the DNLA features in the Smart Menu I can see mkv files, at all. I am using a synology NAS media server is there anything special I need to do to be able to see and play them?

Hey guys do you think spending an extra $500 on the LC-80LE633U over a LC-80LE632U is worth it? As far as I can tell the 633U just has 240aquamotion activated which just seems like a software change rather then a hardware one. Overall I'm thinking they are identical but would like some confirmation.

they are identical , that 240 thing is software you are right & most turn Off the 240 anyway , so save $5oo

Thought so, thanks slappy