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Streacom FC8 fanless mITX Build - Page 2

post #31 of 61
2/8/12 at 7:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by politby View Post

The feet are standard AV type round with rubber inserts and a gold border. They are glued or taped, not screwed, to the case bottom.

Nice review, but you are wrong here. (Unless you have different version, but I don't think so.)
All feet in Streacom and Wesena chassis - available in North America - are mounted by screws (sometimes hidden by the rubber).
LL
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post #32 of 61
2/8/12 at 7:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatNorth View Post

Thanks politby. Your setup is awesome.
.................................................
A few problems:
- blu-ray player - I found it pretty difficult to track down options. If anyone finds a left eject slim slot blu ray player I'd be interested (it doesn't have to be a burner). In fact if they can confirm the UJ240 drive would work that would be useful.

Available here
Quote:


- Its not clear if the "IR receiver and RC260" is included by the ebay seller for the Streacom Fc8 and if not, I need to track one down.

No, it's not, unless clearly marked.
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post #33 of 61
2/13/12 at 2:49pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zygmunt View Post

Nice review, but you are wrong here. (Unless you have different version, but I don't thin so.)
All feet in Streacom and Wesena chassis - available in North America - are mounted by screws (sometimes hidden by the rubber).

You are right of course. I was getting it mixed up with another case I tested before I got the FC8.
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post #34 of 61
2/14/12 at 10:51am
Couldn't decide if this deserved a separate post but as this talks about fanless cases it seems appropriate.

What do you think of this Travla C380?

http://www.travla.com/upload/documen...1726279492.pdf

Do you think it'll make it to the US in the near future?

I also saw a similar version with a fan (making the "fanless" name a little confusing)

http://itrademarket.com/travla/27941...et-core-i3.htm
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post #35 of 61
2/14/12 at 10:55am
BTW - Thanks for the photo of the feet. My earlier reply seemed to disappear. I didn't realize there was an additional gap to under the fins for additional air flow. I wonder if the orientation is significant as a result. My setup would probably keep the fin upward so probably not a big deal.
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post #36 of 61
2/14/12 at 3:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatNorth View Post

Couldn't decide if this deserved a separate post but as this talks about fanless cases it seems appropriate.

What do you think of this Travla C380?

http://www.travla.com/upload/documen...1726279492.pdf

Do you think it'll make it to the US in the near future?

I also saw a similar version with a fan (making the "fanless" name a little confusing)

http://itrademarket.com/travla/27941...et-core-i3.htm



I think that case looks ugly as hell. Reminds me of my old tackle box from when I was a kid for some reason lol

edit: sorry to go off topic w/ my post. So I'll comment OT. I like the OP's build. I'm interested in the FC5-OD, but am waiting for a version with longer heatpipes like was shown in the prototypes. I think the Streacom cases look nicer then the HD-Plex's. If they were the same I would have ordered an HD-Plex by now.
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post #37 of 61
2/21/12 at 3:32am
Hi All,
I have also built a system based on the FC8 and thought I'd share what I've learned. I use mine as a Windows Media Center box, but also play DVDs and use Media Browser for films.
Overall I'm really pleased - it looks great, does everything I want it too. It's also quietest Media Center I've ever had.

My system is as follows:
FC8
Optional IR Module
A6-3500
Asus F1A75-I Deluxe
Sony BC-5600S Blu-Ray
BlackGold BGT3650 Quad DVB-T "Freeview/Freeview HD" TV card
OCZ Vertex 2E 60GB SSD
Samsung Spin Point F4EG EcoGreen 2TB

Temps
My system runs hotter than Politby's system, probably because I've got my case packed to the rafters. I also used arctic silver and was able to get it into the parts that Politby couldn't without too many problems.
The Nuvoton temps are the same as reported by the Asus utility, so I think they are correct. However only CPU and Aux are real - "Motherboard", "SYSTIN1" and the other entries are definitely red herrings as suspected by Politby. Mine was reading 60 degrees at idle so I stuck my fingers on every component to see what was hot. I found none. My motherboard/SYSTIN temps also drop under load. Whatever they are, they're not real temps.
My system runs at around 40-50 degrees under normal circumstances. With an hour of Prime95 they stabilise at 69 degrees.

This is acceptable in my book... I almost never stress my system, and if I do then this temp is okay for a short while. (Having said that I'll have a go at trying to reduce the temps by improving airflow in the case. I'll report back if I make a difference).
BTW the processor has a theoretical maximum operating temp of 100.

Tips on Build
  • I initially used the Streacom PicoPSU. However it doesn't fit well with this motherboard - the power connectors are jammed up against the heatpipe. However the brick failed after about 5 minutes of use so I got a chance to try another PSU: I used an Ituner PSU and it fits much better. You won't face this problem if you use a motherboard with a different layout.
  • I built my system with 150W power supplies. This looks like overkill. My system has never consumed more than 90W, idles at 30-40W and sleeps at 7W.
  • The connectors for the power button confused me - whether you are using the IR module or not, check out the IR module manual on the Streacom website for better instructions on hooking up the power button. (I didn't know this in advance).
  • The IR module is nearly but not quite Microsoft remote compatible. A couple of keys don't function correctly. The supplied remote isn't that great, IMHO.
  • Get some really short SATA cables, and a SATA to mini-SATA power adapter in advance for your optical drive. (D'oh!)
  • The Sony 5600S is a drive with the eject button on the left, so one of the few that will fit the case. I got mine really cheap, but it doesn't have an eject button. Fitting a bezel to the drive after the event doesn't fix this. If you buy a 5600S, make sure to get one with an eject button if this is important to you.
  • There aren't enough USB headers on this motherboard to power everything on the FC8. Card reader plus 2x front USB port plus IR module means you need 4... but you only have 2. I'm currently investigating whether I can hook the unused USB3.0 header to these, or whether I'll need a NZXT IU01 or similar to get more USB headers in the case.

I hope you find some of this useful.
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post #38 of 61
3/7/12 at 8:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by aknox View Post

Hi All,
I have also built a system based on the FC8 and thought I'd share what I've learned. I use mine as a Windows Media Center box, but also play DVDs and use Media Browser for films.
Overall I'm really pleased - it looks great, does everything I want it too. It's also quietest Media Center I've ever had.

My system is as follows:
FC8
Optional IR Module
A6-3500
Asus F1A75-I Deluxe
Sony BC-5600S Blu-Ray
BlackGold BGT3650 Quad DVB-T "Freeview/Freeview HD" TV card
OCZ Vertex 2E 60GB SSD
Samsung Spin Point F4EG EcoGreen 2TB

Temps
My system runs hotter than Politby's system, probably because I've got my case packed to the rafters. I also used arctic silver and was able to get it into the parts that Politby couldn't without too many problems.
The Nuvoton temps are the same as reported by the Asus utility, so I think they are correct. However only CPU and Aux are real - "Motherboard", "SYSTIN1" and the other entries are definitely red herrings as suspected by Politby. Mine was reading 60 degrees at idle so I stuck my fingers on every component to see what was hot. I found none. My motherboard/SYSTIN temps also drop under load. Whatever they are, they're not real temps.
My system runs at around 40-50 degrees under normal circumstances. With an hour of Prime95 they stabilise at 69 degrees.

This is acceptable in my book... I almost never stress my system, and if I do then this temp is okay for a short while. (Having said that I'll have a go at trying to reduce the temps by improving airflow in the case. I'll report back if I make a difference).
BTW the processor has a theoretical maximum operating temp of 100.

Tips on Build
  • I initially used the Streacom PicoPSU. However it doesn't fit well with this motherboard - the power connectors are jammed up against the heatpipe. However the brick failed after about 5 minutes of use so I got a chance to try another PSU: I used an Ituner PSU and it fits much better. You won't face this problem if you use a motherboard with a different layout.
  • I built my system with 150W power supplies. This looks like overkill. My system has never consumed more than 90W, idles at 30-40W and sleeps at 7W.
  • The connectors for the power button confused me - whether you are using the IR module or not, check out the IR module manual on the Streacom website for better instructions on hooking up the power button. (I didn't know this in advance).
  • The IR module is nearly but not quite Microsoft remote compatible. A couple of keys don't function correctly. The supplied remote isn't that great, IMHO.
  • Get some really short SATA cables, and a SATA to mini-SATA power adapter in advance for your optical drive. (D'oh!)
  • The Sony 5600S is a drive with the eject button on the left, so one of the few that will fit the case. I got mine really cheap, but it doesn't have an eject button. Fitting a bezel to the drive after the event doesn't fix this. If you buy a 5600S, make sure to get one with an eject button if this is important to you.
  • There aren't enough USB headers on this motherboard to power everything on the FC8. Card reader plus 2x front USB port plus IR module means you need 4... but you only have 2. I'm currently investigating whether I can hook the unused USB3.0 header to these, or whether I'll need a NZXT IU01 or similar to get more USB headers in the case.

I hope you find some of this useful.

Thank you.
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post #39 of 61
3/7/12 at 10:58pm
@ aknox

If you haven't already you should RMA your power brick. I recall reading their power bricks were garbage - I'm not sure if they changed them since that review. check it the review here http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/S.../FC5_OD/2.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by techpowerup View Post

The actual power brick is the opposite of the PicoPSU. Delivering 12V at 12.5 Amps translates to 150W as well, but this Streacom branded unit is as big as an Xbox 360 PSU. The plastic casing is not confidence inspiring, easily bends out of shape under pressure and the casing sounds hollow, which makes one wonder if the unit could have been constructed more compact. On top of that, the lack of proper certifications and the multi-lingual sticker "Caution may get hot!" make me wonder if I will end up waking up to an apartment ablaze in an inferno one night.
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post #40 of 61
3/8/12 at 4:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aknox View Post

Hi All,
.....................................
Tips on Build
  • I built my system with 150W power supplies. This looks like overkill. My system has never consumed more than 90W, idles at 30-40W and sleeps at 7W.

  • No, it is not an overkill. You never use max load on every output, so it is better this way. Look at this info.
    Quote:


  • The connectors for the power button confused me - whether you are using the IR module or not, check out the IR module manual on the Streacom website for better instructions on hooking up the power button. (I didn't know this in advance).
    There is more info here about PS and IR connections.
    Quote:


  • The IR module is nearly but not quite Microsoft remote compatible. A couple of keys don't function correctly.
    Which ones? You may have IR receiver with older firmware. Check information here.
    Quote:


    The supplied remote isn't that great, IMHO.
  • Get some really short SATA cables, and a SATA to mini-SATA power adapter in advance for your optical drive. (D'oh!)
  • The Sony 5600S is a drive with the eject button on the left, so one of the few that will fit the case. I got mine really cheap, but it doesn't have an eject button. Fitting a bezel to the drive after the event doesn't fix this. If you buy a 5600S, make sure to get one with an eject button if this is important to you.
  • There aren't enough USB headers on this motherboard to power everything on the FC8. Card reader plus 2x front USB port plus IR module means you need 4... but you only have 2. I'm currently investigating whether I can hook the unused USB3.0 header to these, or whether I'll need a NZXT IU01 or similar to get more USB headers in the case.
Quote:


I hope you find some of this useful.

I hope that provided links will help you as well.
Regards
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post #41 of 61
3/8/12 at 4:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge View Post

@ aknox

If you haven't already you should RMA your power brick. I recall reading their power bricks were garbage - I'm not sure if they changed them since that review. check it the review here http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/S.../FC5_OD/2.html

There is different one offered in the USA

Best Regards
LL
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post #42 of 61
3/13/12 at 9:11pm
what is the cheapest compatible fm1 motherboard for fc8 that can be bought online?
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post #43 of 61
3/30/12 at 5:24am
Thread Starter 
Is it possible to hijack one's own thread?

I just completed a build for a customer using the FC5OD:



Asus P8H61M-Pro mATX board with a Core i3-2120T 35W processor. The heatsink barely reaches body temperature...

Love this case but I hate the slim slot-in optical drives. I installed a horribly expensive Sony/Optiarc BC-5600 so I could get the eject button on the left. But after spending 2 hours to get the case button to line up with the drive button, I gave up.

Better get a cheap drive off fleaBay without bezel and button and use a keyboard/remote shortcut for disc eject instead.
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post #44 of 61
3/30/12 at 9:32am
Is there enough room for a ceton tuner so it doesn't interfere with the ODD? I've yet to see one mounted in any of the pics i've seen of the FC5OD.
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post #45 of 61
3/30/12 at 2:08pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge View Post

Is there enough room for a ceton tuner so it doesn't interfere with the ODD? I've yet to see one mounted in any of the pics i've seen of the FC5OD.

It would have to be a very large tuner card for it to conflict with the optical drive. I would be more concerned about thickness - strictly one slot would be a requirement.
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post #46 of 61
4/1/12 at 11:53am
Hi,

Check out my temperatures. Is it normal?

my system is
amd a6 3500
streacom fc8
intel 320 ssd

nuvoton temperatures (in celcius)
cpu 62.5
auxiliarry 67.5
system 35.0

amd temperatures
cpu 50.5
gpu 51.0


touching the chassis, it feels very hot.

amd a6 3500 max temp is 70c.but having very hot cpu can damage other component inside the chassis.

is this normal or not?

thanks.
LL
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post #47 of 61
4/2/12 at 3:35am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by publicENEMY View Post

Hi,

Check out my temperatures. Is it normal?

my system is
amd a6 3500
streacom fc8
intel 320 ssd

nuvoton temperatures (in celcius)
cpu 62.5
auxiliarry 67.5
system 35.0

amd temperatures
cpu 50.5
gpu 51.0

touching the chassis, it feels very hot.

amd a6 3500 max temp is 70c.but having very hot cpu can damage other component inside the chassis.

is this normal or not?

thanks.

If those temps were taken at load, yes they are normal.

I have the same processor. I have just relocated my machine from an open placement at the top of the rack into a closed cabinet and I ran a stress test this morning to check how the new location affected the temps.

CPU temp turned out to be almost unaffected - 62 C after about 30 min at 100% load - but the outside of the case is much hotter. So it looks like the case was able to keep the temp at the same level despite significantly reduced air flow.

Remember the case is supposed to get hot - it is a heat sink
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post #48 of 61
4/3/12 at 7:08pm
i am absolutely sure that the temperature readings are totally unreliable.

when i turn sleep the htpc for more than 6 hours, the readings are still the same. i try restarting the htpc, thinking maybe the temperature reading takes time adjusting to correct temperature, but still same. the chassis are no longer hot, but the nuvoton reading are constantly 55c. the amd temperature reading are below my room temperature. cpu temperature reading from amd and nuvoton(mb) are never the same.

i am absolutely sure both reading are incorrect. they (amd and asus) can make cpu and mb, but cant make a correct thermal sensor? gtfo.
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post #49 of 61
4/3/12 at 7:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by publicENEMY View Post

Hi,
...

amd temperatures
cpu 50.5
gpu 51.0


touching the chassis, it feels very hot.

amd a6 3500 max temp is 70c.but having very hot cpu can damage other component inside the chassis.

is this normal or not?

thanks.

I used an IR thermometer on the Marvell chip in my NAS. It was at 60deg C and hot to the touch. Pasted a heatsink on top of the chip and it is still at 60deg C. Most chips will work at 70-80deg C.
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post #50 of 61
7/4/12 at 1:23pm
I just bought a couple of FC8s to build into quiet PCs (not media PCs, just regular desktop PCs), because fan noise was driving me crazy.

Looking at your pictures, it seems as if additional heat pipes could be fitted. Would there be an advantage to doing that? If so, do you know where to buy additional pipes?
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post #51 of 61
7/5/12 at 1:20am
I have a plan to fit extra heat pipes, and have got this far:

I've determined that I can fit 2 extra pipes. I believe they are 6mm in diameter. I've purchased a suitable pipe bender from Amazon, which cost me £8.50.

I then purchased the heat pipes from Wattbits on ebay, at £12 each. However I bought the wrong ones. Had I read the listing carefully I'd have found that they sell several types, and I got ones with the wrong cross-section (they're flattish). I'll have to have another go.

As to whether it will make any difference, I don't yet know. But I intend to try because my system runs a bit hot, whenever I do anything processor intensive: specifically, transcoding DVDs to MP4s. My system temp (and hard drive temp, etc - the whole box) go up to 55-60 degrees. However in normal use the temps are fine.

If you do this before I do, please let us know how it goes, and what effect it has!
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post #52 of 61
11/14/12 at 8:01am
I just bought a Streacom FC8 evo case. Nice quality.
I figured out, that the AsRock FM2A75M-ITX does not quite fit into the case.
The RAM modules are blocking the heatpipes. even low profile rams.
There is another problem.
The Streacom ST-NANO150 Watt module gets in the way with the 2nd Ram module. :-(
I managed to damage the heatpipes. Good job.

I am looking for 4 new heatpipes fitting in the FC8 evo. No answer from the Streacom support yet.
And a compatible itx FM2-mainboard.

Any suggestions?
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post #53 of 61
11/14/12 at 8:28am
You should look at FM2A75M-ITX configuration before buying it.
FM2A75M-ITX has not typical configuration. If you ask here, I would tell you don't buy FM2A75M-ITX for Streacom chassis.
BTW if you look at pictures carefully, you could figure out your self that it will not work.
This MoBo: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/FM2A75M-ITX/ with 24 pin connector and memory slots on the right, just under pipes - must create problems.
This mobo: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_Socket_FM1/F1A75I_DELUXE/ has memory slot in front, so there is no conflict with pipes.
You have two options:
Change Mobo or change chassis, sorry.
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post #54 of 61
11/14/12 at 8:39am
ASRock FM2A75M-ITX has almost the same board layout as the previous Socket FM1 model ASRock A75M-ITX, that is already known not to fit FC8.

MSI FM2-A75IA-E53 is soon to be available and will (hopefully smile.gif) fit FC8 with (or without) a 24-pin power extension cable like this.
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post #55 of 61
11/14/12 at 7:31pm
Politby, how are you measuring your power consumption?

I'm working on my Streamcom FC9 based system so appreciate this thread.



http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434920/daves-new-mini-itx-silent-pc-htpc-build-thread
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post #56 of 61
11/15/12 at 1:18am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanspeak View Post

Politby, how are you measuring your power consumption?
I'm working on my Streamcom FC9 based system so appreciate this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434920/daves-new-mini-itx-silent-pc-htpc-build-thread

Actually, Im not. smile.gif

The power used by my home theater is minuscule compared to my total electrical bills so I just can't be bothered. Just heating the house over a normal winter uses some 15,000 kWh despite a fairly sophisticated heat pump system. mad.gif
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post #57 of 61
11/15/12 at 2:01pm
I have sent back the AsRock-MB already.
The problem with the MSI FM2-A75IA-E53 is that the power connector is too close to the edge of the mobo. The Nano150 PSU gets in the way with the chassis.
That was already the case with the AsRock-MB although its connector isn't that close to the edge.

At the moment these two boards - FM2-socket itx - are the only ones available, aren't they?

I contacted the Streamcom support in Holland by phone. I was told, they can provide 4 heatpipes for 20 Euro or so,
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post #58 of 61
11/15/12 at 7:10pm
ASUS is supposed to release a FM2 mini-ITX mb, but the details are unknown.
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post #59 of 61
11/15/12 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobojobo View Post

The problem with the MSI FM2-A75IA-E53 is that the power connector is too close to the edge of the mobo. The Nano150 PSU gets in the way with the chassis.

That's why I suggested an extension cable.
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post #60 of 61
11/16/12 at 2:26pm
Looking out for FM2 ITX boards, I contacted the Gigabytge support:


GIGABYTE-Team
Quote:
Thank you for emailing GIGABYTE.
We are delighted with your interest in our products.
The FM2 ITX board wil be comming soon.
It´s planned for end of Q1 2013.

Kind regards

GIGABYTE-Team
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