OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 45

My 7000 is about 5 feet right above my head. I mean it's not whisper quite but IMO, it's not distracting. Once the movie or games start, It's a moot point anyways as the house is now if fear for it's life! muhahahaha!

Thanks for the observations n8dogg.

Also, reading through this whole thread, I didn't see much at all on calibrating the 7000 or people posting their optimal settings. Does that mean everyone is using the standard picture modes without any adjustments?

Thanks!

Btw, mine comes tomorrow!!!!!

I just passed the 150hr mark and broke out the calibration disc this past weekend.

I must say the picture is FAR better after calibrating.

Much better contrast in dark scenes.

Color wise this projector is very good, blue and red were almost bang on out of the box. Green on the other hand needed some work, but the Panny has a phenomenal feature that lets you dial in an exact color portion of the screen you want, so you can pick a segment and adjust color, tint and brightness for each specific color in a test pattern.

I wont post the calibration numbers I have directly here as honestly so many things factor in within your environment that it is not a good idea to jsut mimic my results on your projector.

All I can say is it is well worth the couple hours I spent tweaking. 2d looks better, and 3d looks much better.

I did 2 modes, one based on Cinema 1 and one from Normal.

Both have their advantages.

I find that when viewing content on the HTPC the calibration from Normal works best, for 2d and 3d movies Cinema 1 had better colors to start with, but was significantly less bright.

What calibration disc do you recommend?

Pay no more attention to this post. I am what is called '3D Ignorant'. It wasn't a hardware problem but a picture setting problem. I was trying to run the 3D Blu-rays with 'Normal' picture mode instead of 'Cinema 2' mode. I sacrifice brightness but now am without the horizontal video banding.

Thanks for the input
Wolfie

I would think you should be able to choose any picture mode you want and not see banding. Isn't normal one of the brighter modes? You need all the brightness you can get in 3D.

I use the Digital Video Essentails calibration disc. Can ususally pick them up for under $20 on ebay or amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Video-.../dp/B000V6LST0

sold out at the moment, but that is the one you are looking for.

I am tossing around the idea of getting a pro calibration done, there are a few places in town that do it for about $400, so Imay take the plunge after christmas.

My thoughts exactly.

I have tried multiple movies in all the modes, I find Nomal to work the best for 3d personally. I have not had any banding in any of the modes.

Me too. I use Normal mode for 3D and it looks awesome!. Cofn42 thanks for the calibration disc recommendation.

This is for you and scoochie both, what grade and length of cable are you using? It also may be that the brightness and contrast in my 'Nornal' mode may be too high. I will check it, but 'Cinema 2' works good enough for me.

Wolfie

I read somewhere that banding could be seen when the HDMI color space setting in the player was set to 4:2:2 or Auto rather than 4:4:4. You might try changing this HDMI output setting on the Sony if there is one and see if the banding goes away. Worth a try.

Hmmm...I've never heard of that, but I will give it a try. Thanks
Wolfie

I don't have the AE7000 yet, but my AE4000 shows no artifacts at full zoom. Smooth screen eliminates screen door, so that is not an issue. The only problem with a large screen at close viewing distance is source limitations. BD looks great, but some D* stations are less than stellar.

Art

I have a 33' generic hdmi cable from Monoprice, it is about 3 yrs old now, maybe a little more.

I just bought a brand new 33' high speed hdmi cable with ethernet, but have not had the time to install it.

I grabbed it when I bought the projector as I was not sure what version of cable I had current, and if it was new enough from 3d to pass through, it was, so there has been no real motivation to install the new one.

What source device are you using?

Wolfie

I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and HTPC all hooked up through a Rotel RSP-1570.

I do all my 3d bluray's through the PS3 and the download 3d movies on the HTPC

I'm having some problems with the lens shift and I was hoping someone can help.

I centered the 16:9 image and save a memory setting. Then I zoomed to 2.35:1 but the problem I am having is that the vertical shift can only move the image up so far. It gets to a point where it cuts the image off and the only way I can center the image is to adjust with the manual stick. I also started with 2.35:1 and optimized for that but then have the same problem with 16:9.

What am I doing wrong?

I forgot to mention that I have a 130" CIH 2.35:1 screen.

TKNice: Sounds like you are trying to zoom for a CIH setup, instead of using the A-lens. If so, you got to make sure the projector is at the top edge of your screen. Any higher, the manual vertical lens shift will have to adjusted to bring up the 2.35:1 image.

Brilliant looking room.

Thanks jjmbxkb, yeah I've been using the lens for so long now that I've forgotten the characteristics of zooming.

Okay, top edge of the screen you say... I guess I have to play around with it more but it sounds like it will work. I'd like to give this lens memory thing a go and see if it works in my setup.

btw, I've always loved your room as well.

Played around with it some more and I think I know the part that I am having trouble with. When using the V-Area position to adjust the image vertically, it can only move so far before I start losing part of the image. Is this the control that I am supposed to be using?

My Brain hurts..

Hi, TKNice: Congrats on the Panny 7K. The lamp on my Panny 4K is around 1,400 hours, and from time to time I wish for more pop. It will be soon decision time for me to get a replacement lamp or get a new model.

Speaking from my experience of setting up the 4K:

The V-Area moves the image up or down within a fixed projected area. You do need to use it to move the 2.35:1 image up and fit it into your screen, as you are currently doing.

The reason you run out of V-Area ajdustments is that when you zoom in from 16:9 to 2.35:1, the entire projected area is pushed down. The top screen edge mounting requirement ensures that the top edge of the entire project area, as adjusted by the manual vertical lens shift, stays the same for both 16:9 and 2.35:1.

So the key point is that the Vertical Lens Shift moves the entire display area up or down, while V-Area crops the top or bottom to move useful image up or down WITHIN the fixed projection area.

Thanks.

Thanks for sticking with me on this jjmbxkb, I really appreciate it.

I get that I'm moving around within the fixed projected area and that both need to be zoomable within that area, but are we saying that my projector needs to be mounted differently (shorter or longer throw) or that I need to set the manual adjust at the top of the screen? I tried that and had the reverse problem on the bottom when switching back to 16:9.

Thanks again!

Not to adjust the throw distance, but to simply lower the projector, by using something like an extension pole, so that the project lens is at the same level as your scope screen top.

Ahh gotcha. Well, I don't think that is an option unfortunately because there is a riser and I don't want people to bump their head. It's prob at around 6.5" or so right now (I just clear it by an inch or two).

Looks like it's back to the anamorphic lens!

Guys, does TKNice's experience put to rest the question of whether the 7000 has more V shift capability than the 4000? I remember some pages back the chart from Panasonic web page sort of making it sound like the 7000 had more shift ability (I personally was hoping so).

Definitely a problem. It's also an eye sore when you have a rear entrance casual living area, like mine, to be staring at the back of a big black box with wires going into it. (My use of the dual screens did give me the side benefit of getting around the limiation and having a flush ceiling mount of the projector.)

Not to start the touchy topic, but just being curious: Why were you thinking about switching to zooming?

It's actually not the amount of lens shift, but whether the lens shift is manual or motorized. Motorized lens shift will make it possible to record it as part of the lens memory and have it recalled/set automatically. With manual lens shift, you got to manually adjust the stick/dial to move up the projection area, each time you switch aspect ratio, unless you mount the projector low enough.

Thanks.

Had my 7000 a little over a week and loving it more everyday... Had my first problem tonight, have to investigate more tomorrow... I was watching a program and than all of a sudden I saw the logo of the different HDMI inputs, I thought this was odd but I turned off and back on the device supplying the signal, and the projector itself, and still nothing.... I moved the HDMI to the HDMI2 and it worked as it had before...

Really hoping I didnt lose an input.. Dont wanna lose the projector while I get it traded out...

Carey P, you are da MAN!! That did the trick. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!

Wolfie

I had the same problem too... I was playing GT5 in 3D (Sick) anyway my screen froze white and I still heard the game was playing but I couldnt do anything to restore the picture. 1st I tried switching inputs on the receiver to DirecTv ...nothing still white then I turned off the receiver and back on and still nothing. finally I turned off the projector and back on and it was fixed...it only happened 1 time and wasnt a big deal but i am glad someone else had the exact same issue i was a bit worried it has never happened before.