OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 54

There is NO MENTION of that in the Article.



AGAIN - there is no mention of that in the article.

I have no idea where you guys come up with this INFO

Originally before you glued it, did you stretch the fabric around the frame? I stretched mine tightly on a frame made with 1 x 3, and after 5 years I have no sags.

Wow...you must be blind!
Sorry buddy, but it's in black and white and couldn't be more clear.
It's exactly what it says

Here's a copy and paste of the whole paragraph:
Image comparing the Panasonic PT-AE7000 projector and the Epson 8700UB projector.

OK, above, Panasonic PT-AE7000 (left) vs. Epson Home Cinema 8700UB. No question about it, our badly over-exposed night train scene shows blacker blacks on the Epson, and even a bit more dark shadow detail. Live and larger, the Epson also just has noticeably more pop

OK, OK. You caught us. We make stuff up then put it in quotations to lend credibility to our diabolical lies.
Actually, what you may have missed is that Art updated the initial review by adding to the competetor's section.

Why does my WORD SEARCH NOT FIND it in this article

If you are taking two separate reviews on different pages - that is not FAIR.

Here you go.

It was not originally on the primary page.

I've been trying to get a handle on this calibration settings. I bought the Disney WOW disk and thought I had a pretty good understanding of how things are set but then Art published his settings http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...alibration.php
and they are nowhere near what I came up using the WOW disk. Does anybody have any thoughts on why there is such a large difference? Could it be all just because I have a different screen material or size? Should I use the settings that Art has and then go back and adjust contrast, brightness and tint using the WOW disk?

Every one will have different calibration settings. You are correct. Screen size, screen material, throw distance, and much more has an effect on calibration. I've calibrated mine using an eye 1 and colorHCFR and my settings are no where near arts. My setup is a 135 inch elite screens cinegray material in a dedicated theater room with dark gray walls and ceiling. I was able to get my grayscale and gamma calibrated and I am much happier with the picture. if you think the picture looks better with your adjustments then I'd go that route. It is very rare that you will be able to plug in someone's settings and get the same result unless you have the exact same setup as they do.

Here are my settings if you want to compare. I am using Normal picture mode with the bulb on economy. I found the Cinema settings to be too dim for my screen even with normal lamp setting. I'm getting a little of 11 foot lamberts with this and since it is set to economy I can switch to normal lamp setting once my bulb starts to dim.

If the setting is not listed it is at default.

Picture Mode: Normal
Contrast: 16
Brightness: -2
Color: 8
Tint: -3

Advanced Menu:
Contrast R: -4
Contrast B: 7
Contrast G: -3
Brightness R: 1
Brightness G: 5
Brightness B: 1

Gamma Adjustment:
Mode Advanced: (I only adjusted the Y setting)
Input 30%: Output +2
Input 40%: Output +4
Input 70%: Output -1
Input 80%: Output -6
Input 90%: Output -3

Color Managent: Mode RGBCMY
Red:
Color = -4
Tint = 0
Brightness = 0

Green
Color = 0
Tint = 0
Brightness = +20

Blue
Color = -18
Tint = +10
Brightness = +14

Cyan
Color = 0
Tint = 0
Brightness = 13

Magenta
Color = +30
Tint = +26
Brightness = -6

Yellow
Color = -22
Tint = +29
Brightness = +9

What I find confusing is Art's quote.... "That's it, try our PT-AE7000 settings out, if you like.". I would think he would give all the details of his setup like you did and then have a disclaimer that anything different in your particular setup will make these setting unusable. I would think the odds of anybody having a theater similar enough would be very slim.

I have my 7k memory with setting I like for 2D and then setting I like for 3D viewing. To do this with the WOW disk I had the glasses on when I made my adjustments. Do you place the eye 1 behind the glasses to get your 3D settings corrected for the effect of the glasses?

No I haven't tried to calibrate 3d that way yet. For 3d I keep all of settings the same and set the glasses to light and turn the lamp to normal mode.

I would think that even with the same screen, room, etc, there are enough variations in the lamps (and projector electronics) to make copying others settings only for the foolhardy. When I tried two different lamps in my old AE3000 it required completely different settings for RGB, gamma and gamut... in the same room and on the same screen.

I'm also surprised by the setting above that has contrast at +16. Might be worth checking this with the free AVS HD709 disc 'basic patterns' flashing white bars: If you can't see at least bar 235 flashing then you're clipping whites. Some like to see upto 254 flashing even and at +16 contrast I wonder just how much is being clipped unless there is a contrast reduction somewhere else in the chain.

That's the disk I used to calibrate my projector. It is an excellent calibration disk if anyone is looking for one. I was surprised as well when I had to set my contrast to 16. With it set to that I have bar 238 flashing.

What exactly are you playing that it is so bad?

Seriously, I play A LOT of online FPS like Call of Duty and on the PC Battlefield 3, the only lag I ever get is network related and has nothing to do with the Panny itself.

I read the comments about lag way early in this thread, we are talking like 10 - 20ms. MILISECONDS. If you are telling me that you are consistently losing at the games you are playing due to this 1/5 of a second of lost time then I have to seriously question your skill as a gamer more than your projector

When it comes to motion gaming I have found the experience lack lutser at best. I do not play a lot of Wii, been half a year since I turned it on, but I have always attributed it to the big screen versus the unit I am using.

PLaystation Move is one of the most acurate motion controls out there and I had nothing but woes with Killzone 3, it would simply not aim where I was pointing it, but this is no fault of the projector.

Remember that game devs have in mind 40 - 60" screen, we are blowing that up to 120+ inches and expecting the same experience as regular LCd tvs. Move a controller a smidgen on the small screen and you will see tighter movement, think of pointing a laser pointer at a 40" box, takes barely a movement in the wrist to point it from one end to the other, but do that to a 120" box and you have to move your whole hand. Same thing applies here, point the Move control at the screen and the subtle movement of the small screen is gone.

I also agree with N8dogg below, I am sure that t he gear you have is adding a second layer to things as well, but I stand by my earlier statement, I see no noticeable lag in anything I have played thus far, either that or after almost a decade of projector gaming I have come to compensate for it.

I'm too lazy to drag my scope out and measure it but it's significantly more than 10 - 20 ms. Someone else way back on this thread did measure it and it was way more than 20 ms.

The size of the screen doesn't enter into it. I've played the same game on the same screen with my AE900U and no lag. I played the Wii tennis game for 20 minutes through the 7000 and I did not adjust my timing because of the lag, so I lost. I swung the controller as I always do but it's too late.

If I connect to the PC I can see a slight delay of the mouse movement that doesn't exist on the Samsung monitor that's getting the exact same live feed. So regardless of what my receiver does, both the 7000 and the Samsung monitor are getting the same HDMI signal.

I assumed that the manufacturer would fire each projector up to check everything was working and also do some standard calibration and then make the internal settings as the default so that all projectors are all very similar going out the door. I base this assumption on the reviewers making comments about the "out of the box calibration" being close to correct. It would make sense that if you changed a bulb later, you would need to recalirate.

You would think. A quick automated computer check would take all but 2 minutes per unit. (Enough time for it to warm up and project on a screen where a video camera can analyze the output) But given the number of defective Panny units reaching customer hands, I doubt they are.

Hi Guys,

Can I get some help with a projector mount height for the PE 7000 so I can zoom between 16:9 and 2.4 using lens memory.

The white part of the Screen will 9.85" (250mm) from the ceiling. My projector mount is 7.87" from the ceiling. Will this work? Or does my mount need to be lower?

Should I get a mount with tilt and pitch? The mounts at my store don't have pitch.

Thanks.

What was the outcome of sending it back? I just set mine up today, and it is loud. I'm replacing a 1000 with it, and that seemed quieter, albeit a little whinier. The 7000 in Eco Lamp mode sounds about the same volume as the 1000.

I have four pairs of the Xpand Universal 3D glasses. They work great with a Panasonic plasma TV, but I'm getting a lot of double overlapped images (is that "cross talk"?) on the 7000. So my questions are:

1) Has anybody tried the Xpand Universals with the 7000 and had good results?
2) Assuming the answer to 1) above is "nobody", does anyone have any recommendation for glasses? Should i just go ahead and get the Panasonic branded glasses?

I'm quietly waiting on my AE7000u to arrive tomorrow. Unfortunately, the HDMI cable will not arrive until Saturday.

I know many of you may feel that Projector Central's review is "review light", but it is very positive on the 7000. As I have noted before, it may come down to preference from reviewer to reviewer. Also, maybe the unit one review site or the other has may differ slightly. Most of the comments from review sites say the 7000 is a notable improvement over the 4000 in 2d mode.

Art has been very pro Epson. I am not saying he hates the Panny product but reviewers of other electronics like speakers etc. can have widely differing views and biases.

Even black level comparisons can vary (did the Epson unit have an older bulb), what type of scenes does he use for the comparison etc.

Again, we are talking minor differences but Art's review is bucking the trend of the others a little.

Aren't all reviews basically biased towards "the preference of the reviewer"? I have yet to read a single "review" that did not show some sort of bias towards one product or brand over another.

The Epson has the better blacks, I don't think that is bucking the trend. Black levels are in most cases what I would consider an over-rated aspect of a projector (and here I am with a JVC RS-45 on the way). Of course I do think once you get to the JVC level of blacks, that is potentially a bigger increase to matter more.

In general though, testing this stuff is quite difficult, as you need to backup what you think you saw with accurate measurements to confirm.

That said, I have found Art's reviews on black levels more accurate than most over the years. I have seen some really whacky reviews on black levels, but Art is generally pretty close.

I wouldn't fret it, every projector has disadvantages and advantages.

I still haven't sent it back yet. From the replies here it seems that is just how the projector is. I am going to try and find one locally I can compare it to.

Let me know. After setting up the projector, I sat down to watch Alien, and it was pretty terrible. Not just because of the volume of sound, but because the fan revs up/down depending on the light in the scene. The start of Alien has the camera moving through the Nostromo with variable lighting, and the 7000 kept revving up and down as the light changed. Very irritating. At this point, if I keep it, I'm going to have to move it further away from the primary seating.

Anyone try Tangled, Beauty and the beast and Lion King 3D on AE7000+3rd gen glass yet?. I saw a lot of ghosting when i watched them last night. I know they got a pretty good review for 3D video, but from my experience it's far from it. And sometimes I saw vertical red-ish bar on the left of my screen [2.35:1] only a few seconds in several scenes [I think it has something to do with the parallax function, right? ] --> happen only with Lion king and beauty and the beast--not on Tangled tho.

Tangled 3D, the lantern scene looks amazing but not so much pop out like everyone talks about. Are the lanterns suppose to come out of the screen very far?

And to make sure that i can see the 3D effect - i see the Cod fish come out of my screen, very close to my face in Under the Sea 3D on this exact system and setting.

I don't have any problem with other movies, only Disney 3D movies. I would like to know why.

And i would like to know is it true that passive 3D can produce more 3D Pop-Out effect than the active 3D? or it should be the same. Any article that i should read about this. Please. I would like to learn more.

Sorry for my English, i did my best to explain my problems. Disney doesn't love me ^^"


Thank you

Are you sure it is not the automatic iris making noise? I believe current through the bulb is not varied with different scenes, therefore heat is the same which means the fan speed wouldn't change. The iris however would be opening and closing throughout the scene you described.
Did you try turning off the iris?

I was having ghosting and banding problems as well. On my Sony Blu-ray 570, the HDMI color space setting in the player was set to 4:2:2 rather than 4:4:4. You might try changing the HDMI output setting on your Blu-ray player that way. Hope this helps, it REALLY did for me.

Wolfie