OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 7

sure pictures mean nothing, but man does it suck to have zero images in 5 pages? one guy shows a fake dust blob, the other guy's comparison pic has been deleted by imageshack. anyone can start a thread saying "WOW THIS PJ ROX"

PP took care of me. I'm sending the defective one back and they are sending me a brand new one. They charged my card again but will credit it back once it's in transit back to them. I had no problem with that.

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/pro...at5000cad.html

The manual shows 5 ceiling mounting holes. Check out page 90 of....
eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae7000at5000/manual/ae7000ENGLISH_U.pdf

You are right. The CAD diagram also shows 5 but I totally missed it since its so far away from the others. Weird spot for that 5th one.

so does this mean that If I'm using a chief mount that the holes will aline up the same as the 4000? with the given off set of the lens? as I have the 4000 lens center of the screen. I guess the question is will I have to move the whole thing over 5" to compensate for the off set of the lens or The hole off set to compensate for it? Did this sound right?

I have a Chief RPA for my 4000 and I posed that very question to Chief. They replied that the custom interface bracket for the 4000 will not work with the 7000. They will be working on a custom interface for the 7000 in the future.

In the meantime, their universal interface bracket should work (their SLBU).

To handle the lens offset, I purchased one of these:
Lateral Shift Bracket

Hope that helps.

Just got my 7000. Ceiling mounted tried out the picture without calibrating it and it blows away my old panny 900. Picture looks as crisp and bright as my samsung 46" hd LCD tv. Simply awesome.

One question how do you setup the lens to shift to change from 1.78 to 2.40 screen modes? Did not see it in the documentation.


Thanks

A bit off topic (sorry), but YOU are a smart man to have run that conduit. Kudos for thinking ahead.

We moved into a new house this fall with no conduit and 3 cheap RCA cables run to the projector. No HDMI. No Cat5.

For those that aren't aware, most (all !) DB players will NOT output 1080 on the component output. 1080 is only available on HDMI.

I'll be doing a lot of fishing and maybe some cutting and painting to fix my situation.

Page 71 of manual. "AUTO SWITCHING"

JVC RS10
image is here, just fine.

Panasonic PT-AE7000
Getting a This image or video has been moved or deleted message here.

How many people have or can route an RS 232 cable to their projector ? I don't have one, but I'd like one.

If you do run an RS232 cable to it, what can you control ? Can you effectively store and call up lens settings, ie do your own lens memory ?

Thanks !

Glad to hear you like it.

I have a Samsung 55LNA750. What model is yours ? If I could get its picture in a 120" size...

What size are you projecting ? What screen are you using and what is your room like ?

It was a badly executed photo taken by me, so I removed it. Refer to post #163 for details.

Finally received my 7000 to replace my old 900.

Its quickly apparent that it is a vast improvement with only an hour of viewing and no adjustments to the out of the box settings yet.

I am having an issue where I am unable to control any of my IR equipment with my Harmony 1100 combined with an in wall IR sensor. The Panny remote still functions properly as expected. I currently have to use the Panny remote to turn off the IR emitter in order to control anything else. This is true in all WEAK, MEDIUM and STRONG emitter settings.

Is the Harmony 1100 known to be a weak IR emitter?

I haven't yet worked with individual component remotes to see if they are affected as well or if I need a better in wall sensor.

Suggestions welcomed.

Corrected. Any 2 megapixel camera can capture sharpness.

JVC RS10


Panasonic PT-AE7000

You don't run a cable. It is a small converter box that sits on the projector. Recieves IR and output RS232.

Look here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206105

That's an interesting problem I never thought about. How do you get other remotes to work when the 3D projectors are constantly blasting IR?

I assume this would apply with ANY 3D projector with IR signal sync.

Also this would make the little LED indictator light on my IR reciever/repeater blink all the time, not good. Come to think of it will it make the IR repeater go nuts trying to repeat the signal all the thime? LCD TV does that to the IR receiver up stairs also.

Kevin--

How low can some people go? Remove my photo please. It's already been established you used a much longer exposure time and wider F stop.

My projector showed up today!

ULTRA CRAPPY CELL PHONE PICTURE ALERT
ULTRA CRAPPY CELL PHONE PICTURE ALERT
ULTRA CRAPPY CELL PHONE PICTURE ALERT



That image is 136" diagonal. I have a Carada Brilliant White CinemaScope screen on the way. (Sample of the Carada Brilliant White on the right, Classic Cinema on the left).

The room needs lots of prep...but I have to do something while I wait for my screen

I sit about 11' back, I can see pixels at 6'. I am extremely picky, but after watching the content for 3 seconds, it looks amazing!

The first disc I tried was Transformers 3....and was disappointed. For some reason, the DVD was on the right side of the case...Yes, the first content I played was DVD... It did feel a bit...off, Blu-Ray was much better though .

I have 1 hour on the projector already on that wall...with no sound.

why do you put these on here with such difference in the shutter speed focal length and aperture ??? it makes no proof of witch is better...

This so not worthy sorry.

Thanks, I'll check it out while here at work tonight.

I don't remember the model off hand and unfortunately Im at work atm.

I am projecting to a 115" screen. It is the Da-lite High power screen. Which also means i can get up to 2.8 gain. Check out my link to my theater room it has pictures of my finished room at the beginning.

I also turned on all my lights in the room except for the very front and the image still "Popped". Never could do that with my Panny 900 wihtout the picture quality deteriorating severely. So glad I waited for this projector, almost bought the 4000 a few months ago.

I was disappointed that my 3d glasses I ordered with the projector did not come with the projector. I called and complained and the rep told me that they only received about 100 pairs and they ran out and I would have to wait. Good thing I was thinking ahead of the game and ordered 2 more pairs with the Avatar 3D bundle from a different store and they came in 2 hours after my projector. The 3D looks fantastic. I go to the movies quite often and I think the 3D is just as good, if not better, than that of the IMAX 3D.

When I called and complained about not receiving my glasses the rep also told me that I could not be more than 10.5 feet from the screen or else the 3D would not work so I should be aware of that. She was wrong! I sit about 16-17 feet from the screen and the 3D works flawless.

Just got mine today. Spent a couple of hours with it mounted to the ceiling. No blobs or any other problems thank goodness. Didn't get to check 3D yet but 2D looks great compared with my AE2000U. Love that Frame creation mode!

BIG QUESTION THOUGH -- How do you aim projector or manually shift lens so that you can switch between 16:9 and zoomed 1.40:1 without the image shifting up or down. I find no way in the V-Area or V-Position shift that compensates without masking off some of the image.

I realize I should have the projector at screen top or lower, but it is actually about 6 or more inches higher. I tried tilting down or using it level and then moving lens up or down to line up the 16:9. But then 1.4:1 is too far down and partly off screen. What is the correct procedure?

Is there any work around other than lowering the projector? If I do that, I'll bump my head since it's over the second row riser and I have an 8ft ceiling. Hope someone here has experience with this. Thanks.

I'm going to run into an issue here.. I have a Niles IR sensor at the front of the room, running back to IR flashers in the closet.. today I have it on a TV and it blinks blue when I hit the buttons on the remote as it repeats the IR signal to the closet. But if the PJ is going to blast it with IR for 3D, then I won't have a shot at changing the volume, etc.. and the blue light will blink non-stop.. NOT OKAY!

Does the PJ blast IR only when doing 3D presentations? Or is it all the time? I sure could use a way to filter out the 3D IR from the remote's IR's.. ;(

what is the aspect ratio of the screen shown in your picture? Is it 2.35:1?

Thanks James,
I when and got the un mounts from B&H they seemed to be the cheapest of all

Its funny how you took the shot with different angle

RS10 is more like a computer screen shot captured.
AE7000 is using real camera to take picture.

Your pictures are so friggin fake ~