OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 8

This thread kinda sucks now, maybe it should be abandoned and set on fire.

I got my AE7000 today. No blobs, no shutting down, no issues at all. Looks great in 2D, even compared to the AE4000. Blacks are darker and there's a lot more detail and contrast. 3D is good, changing the color mode to Normal helps mitigate some of the brightness loss, but there's still a huge hit.

Got mine all set up today. Loving it. Watched some Thor in 2.35 3D glory. Beautiful! As long as the room is darkened at you have it set to normal mode the picture is plenty bright to my eyes.

One question though. Has anyone else tried to set their PS3 to 3D using this projector yet? My PS3 is not identifying it as a 3D device for some reason.

Did you go into the video settings and have it do another "automatic" check? I did this and it discovered the 3D capabilities and asked me to enter my screen size. After that I had no problems playing games in 3D.

What size and gain screens are you running for 3D?

How do you find the input lag with the controller?

Tomorrow I'll load up Rock Band 3 and use the guitar to autocalibrate the lag (it uses a light sensor and microphone to measure the exact lag from controller to output) and post the numbers in comparison to what my AE4000 had. This will only be for 2D mode though.

I played some Ico and Shadow of the Colossus in 3D and didn't notice any intrusive lag, so I'm guessing the total lag is under 100ms.

Me? 119" diagonal and 1.0 gain plain white screen.

My ps3 was used today with 3d and was automatic. Worked fine.

It was Cars, so 2.39:1. I did have it setup for the auto-zoom, worked like a charm. That pic was taken in full daylight (light colored blinds, blackouts on the way), in ECO mode. I turned it on again in pitch black, darn near watched the whole movie without sound.


+1, when it first turned on it brought up a message saying it was 3D

Oh, I also wanted to say that the lens shift joystick really, really, really, really, really, REALLY sucks. A lot. A whole lot. I'm glad I only have to do it once, but it turns a 20 second process (using the dials on the AE4000) into a 5 minute fiasco.

Your a legend. That would be extremely helpful.

I found with my 4000 that ceiling mounting resulted in more fan noise than mounting upright on shelf - it seemed like the fan was not happy running upside-down - so I made a shelf hanging from the ceiling for the 4000 and that is how I run the 7000.

How are you all handling your audio on this projector?
My Tuner/Amp is a Onkyo TX-SR805 and it may be to old to pass 1080P & 3D through its HDMI switching.
If it wont, then I guess I will need something like a 4x2 Matrix switch running one output to the projector and one to the Onkyo.
Or is there a slicker budget method?

That's exactly what I did, but I never got the 3D part. After thinking about it though, I wonder if it is because I have the HDMI split out to my non-3D passthrough receiver for audio. The receiver may be telling the PS3 that it is not 3D capable and overriding the projector. I'll try again tonight using optical out for audio.

Use the optical out for the audio signal to your Onkyo..

That reminds me, I am seriously over due for a pre-amp upgrade.. My Marantz AV550 was built before HDMI was even an idea.. But that's a whole different can of worms..

Xamphear, Congratulations on receiving your faultless new toy!

Have you compared your AE7000 with other 3D projs on the market such as the Sony HW30Es or the Optoma HD83?
I have some bitter experience of using LCD projs in the past. While I am quite happy with my 720p DLP proj, it is a bit outdated and lacking the 3D function. I am thinking of upgrading my proj to a 3D one too.

Simon

I have the EXACT same setup with the Niles IR receiver at the front
of the Theater sending IR back to the Equipment in another room.
I guess I will have to put a piece of BLACK TAPE over the Receiver
to block the IR Emitter from the 7000.

I was thinking about mounting the Niles IR sensor on the bottom or rear of the projector.. I may just end up pointing my IR remotes straight up to hit it, instead of towards the front of the room.. I'll be running a few cat5 up to the projector anyway.. to prep for the future affordable "networked" digital projectors..

But I haven't hit the issue yet.. My projector arrives today, but I won't be getting everything really set up until the following weekend.

I guess this thread moves too fast to expect any answers. However, I convinced myself that the auto zoom method will just not work if the projector is mounted above the top of the screen. It helps for getting close, but have to manually shift afterward which is a real pain with that joystick.

I tried the 3D glasses TY-EW3D3MU while converting 2D to 3D to see what IR problems I would experience. I have a IR receiver at the top of my screen that sends to my closet outside the theatre. I generally sit 12' back from my 137" ST130 2.4:1 screen and projector 18' back. The glasses worked flawlessly even if I turned to right or left or moved to the back row at 17' from screen. I have the emitter cover off and set to strong.
I found my other IR commands such as to my lights or operating menus on screen, took a few tries to get working while the emitter was running. Definitely a weakness was felt while fighting the 3D signal, but still manageable. Too much trouble to go RF at this point but that would be optimal.

The picture was noticeably dimmer and hard to watch on dark scenes (16:9 mode LOST BD) even in Normal mode. I'm hoping a real 3D movie looks better. The glasses are a bit loose even on my large head while wearing prescription glasses. I need to get a small pair for my wife so they won't fall off her head.

I found an interesting anomaly while wearing the glasses. I have LED lighting for my stage and crown moulding as well as a star field at center. If I look at any of these while watching the movie I see them dimming down and disappearing and then increasing in brightness again to normal like a slow sine wave effect. It doesn't happen when looking at normal incandescent lights of course. It will happen with one eye closed too. I don't see any cycling effect like this watching the movie itself. Luckily the glasses are very narrow but I find I still have to turn off any stage lighting or it's a distraction. I'd like to hear if anyone else sees this effect, such as with any LED lighting. It is very strange.

I hope it works for you - I almost never use mine any more and
receiving all the IR Emitter flashes will make it likely useless.

No lossless with optical out, and the 805, as great a receiver that it is, cannot pass the 3D signal through. kf

I ran into this issue as well. I was running it through an Onkyo TX-NR809 in the second HDMI SUB output (the receiver has two outputs).

Initially I solved the problem by connecting the Panny directly to the PS3 and then reran the PS3 Video Settings and the 3D capability was detected and the settings were saved.

The PS3 does NOT check each time if it is an 3D capable display is connected so you only have to make the direct connection and setup once. But my DirecTV HR23 does and there was no way I was going to bypass my receiver.

Turns out the Onkyo will allow detection of 3D capable displays by source devices but ONLY if it is plugged into the HDMI MAIN output. I didn't find it written in the manual and the telephone support was clueless. But luckily I figured it out by playing with it.

The LED lighting probably has an internal frequency like 50 or 60 hertz. The shutters in the glasses have their own frequency. The brightness changes you see are probably the result of interference between the two frequencies.

I figured that on both counts, looks like I will have to get a Matrix switch that is 3D ready and hopefully the HDMI gods will allow full audio into the receiver on one switch output and 1080P 3D out the other

I called Panasonic (800-526-6610) and informed them of my IR issue with the projector's emitter. They logged it in and passed it on up the chain. If others also have this issue you can do the same and it could lead to some changes or improvements.

My current in wall IR receiver is a Buffalo unit which has had issues with CFLs so it may not be the best at "noise" reduction.

I grabbed a Vista Acoustic unit off of Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002COJESQ) which mentions it is Plasma, CFL and sunlight tolerant. Hopefully that will solve my issue.

I should be getting it today (love that Prime!) and I'll post an update.

IR is IR - I doubt Panasonic can do anything. Assuming the
frequencies are unique - IR receivers will still try to repeat
them.

FYI - I have found Buffalo units to be the most sensitive.
They even pick up NEON radiation [NON-IR] and jam the
IR system.

I was thinking of putting my 7000 on a shelf that would be at height above the top of the screen. Has anybody determined if using the needed lens shift to mount it that way affects the picture quality or brightness?

Since the 7000 has 3 HDMI inputs, you could run outputs from your sources directly to the pj and then audio directly to the receiver. Of course, with this method, if you want the higher audio codecs from Blu-ray, you would have to upgrade to a player with two HDMI outs. Satellite and cable only run Dolby Digital audio.

Wolfie

That is exactly what I did.

A blu-ray player with two HDMI outputs was infinitely cheaper
than upgrading my AVR system for 3D.