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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 9

post #241 of 4344
10/5/11 at 8:50am
Got mine and it looks great! 3D is awesome in Motorstorm!

The only question I have for you guys is this. Does the fan seem to be on all the time with yours? Mine is always on, and while it's not super loud or anything it does bug me that it really never shuts off. I hear it get quiet for 10 seconds sometimes and then it spins back up.
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post #242 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

That is exactly what I did.

A blu-ray player with two HDMI outputs was infinitely cheaper
than upgrading my AVR system for 3D.

which BD player did you choose, or which do you recommend?

And what is this notion about optical audio ports not being lossless? I've been out of the AV world for some time.. this is news to me.. but I'm hoping I just misread that up above a bit.
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post #243 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyoo View Post

which BD player did you choose, or which do you recommend?

And what is this notion about optical audio ports not being lossless? I've been out of the AV world for some time.. this is news to me.. but I'm hoping I just misread that up above a bit.

I bought the Panasonic DMP-BDT310 from Amazon.
It comes with the FREE 3D Avatar Blu-Ray Coupon.
If you do web searches for buying the 3D Avatar
Movie - you will find out the player is almost FREE
when you factor in the 3D movie value.

Optical ports can not support the High-Definition
audio standards. HDMI is required for High-Definition
VIDEO and AUDIO - such as Dolby TrueHD and
DTS-HD-MA. And many HDMI systems do not support
3D Video. You have been out of the Audio world for
WAY TOO LONG
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post #244 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:25am
Older 'legacy' digital outputs such as optical and coax do not support the newer, lossless formats or PCM audio above 2ch. You must use HDMI to get the newer audio formats.
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post #245 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

IR is IR - I doubt Panasonic can do anything. Assuming the
frequencies are unique - IR receivers will still try to repeat
them.

FYI - I have found Buffalo units to be the most sensitive.
They even pick up NEON radiation [NON-IR] and jam the
IR system.

I think the solution here is to purchase the external IR emmiter and place it up front, pointing at the audience, right above the IR sensor with a small shelf in between so the IR receiver sensor does not pick it up.

It's a crap shoot. But it would be much like taking your television remote and pointing it at the back of the room and see if your TV picks up the command still.
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post #246 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalGriffin View Post

I think the solution here is to purchase the external IR emmiter and place it up front, pointing at the audience, right above the IR sensor with a small shelf in between so the IR receiver sensor does not pick it up.

It's a crap shoot. But it would be much like taking your television remote and pointing it at the back of the room and see if your TV picks up the command still.

That was my plan also because my THEATER is
rather big and is beyond the range of 18 feet.
But I plan to try it first - as shipped - and then
add the external emitter if needed.
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post #247 of 4344
10/5/11 at 9:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post

Since the 7000 has 3 HDMI inputs, you could run outputs from your sources directly to the pj and then audio directly to the receiver. Of course, with this method, if you want the higher audio codecs from Blu-ray, you would have to upgrade to a player with two HDMI outs. Satellite and cable only run Dolby Digital audio.

Wolfie

Since I will have more than 1 av device that will be outputting HDMI, I am going to buy the 4x2 switch. It is only about $80 and a new Receiver or Blu Ray player will be a bit more. This setup will allow 4 Hdmi's in to 2 outputs.
One output will go to the Onkyo receiver for full bandwidth audio and the other to the projector for HD 3D. I can run a 2nd line out of the Onkyo to the projector for onscreen menus and anything else that needs to be scaled up to 1080P.

BTW I just ordered my projector, and they have the external IR emitter in stock so I will have my rear projection setup ready to roll in a week, I just need some extra 3D glasses to get off of backorder.
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post #248 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyoo View Post

which BD player did you choose, or which do you recommend?

And what is this notion about optical audio ports not being lossless? I've been out of the AV world for some time.. this is news to me.. but I'm hoping I just misread that up above a bit.

Yes, optical ports don't decode DTS HD Master Audio or Dolby HD Audio. The new OPPO 3D would be a good choice, if you are well funded. It has foreign language subtitle shift, which is a neat feature that moves subtitles from the black bar area of scope movies to the picture area, so when you do a screen fit the subtitles can be seen, if that matters to you. Not cheap, though, but the Blu-ray player world raves about it.

Wolfie
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post #249 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

That is exactly what I did.

A blu-ray player with two HDMI outputs was infinitely cheaper
than upgrading my AVR system for 3D.

Don't know the cost of the "matrix" which I'm guessing is a form of splitter to
send one signal to both the projector and his AVR for sound decoding/amplification (if not decoded in the source of course..).. That might be a cost effective solution.. Otherwise, good excuse to get an Oppo 93/95 with it's dual hdmi outputs like you suggest...kf
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post #250 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmfellows View Post

Otherwise, good excuse to get an Oppo 93/95 with it's dual hdmi outputs like you suggest...kf

Oppo is great but outside my budget.

I have to save up for the PJ
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post #251 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

I figured that on both counts, looks like I will have to get a Matrix switch that is 3D ready and hopefully the HDMI gods will allow full audio into the receiver on one switch output and 1080P 3D out the other

Hope you don't get video and audio crosstalk with such a setup. 3D is really tricky.
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post #252 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post


Oppo is great but outside my budget.

I have to save up for the PJ

The Panasonic 310 also has dual HDMI and is much cheaper than the Oppo. Especially if you have access to their EPP store.
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post #253 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

The Panasonic 310 also has dual HDMI and is much cheaper than the Oppo. Especially if you have access to their EPP store.

Isn't that what I Said ???????????????
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post #254 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by xamphear View Post

The LED lighting probably has an internal frequency like 50 or 60 hertz. The shutters in the glasses have their own frequency. The brightness changes you see are probably the result of interference between the two frequencies.

Thanks for the reply. I figured this was it. I realized that all my LED's use a 100V DC converter supply which I'm sure is not filtered and pulses DC probably at 120Hz. If the glasses switch at 240Hz any slight difference will cause a beat frequency or slow sub-harmonic wave which is what I'm seeing. I'm glad that's all it is but still annoying to have to turn them off during a 3D movie.
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post #255 of 4344
10/5/11 at 10:47am
Anyone compare Xpand x103 with the new Panny glasses using this projector?

I only have one pair of the TW-EW3D3MU and need to get more but they are few and far between right now (at any decent price). Thanks.
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post #256 of 4344
10/5/11 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KallanOz View Post

Your a legend. That would be extremely helpful.

I took these measurements over HDMI while bypassing my receiver, so this lag is the just the lag inside the AE7000. 2D, Cinema 1, Frame Creation OFF.

Frame Response set to Normal: 91ms
Frame Response set to Fast: 81ms

This is actually a fair bit laggier than my AE4000, but still acceptable. Also, the difference between Normal and Fast is pretty pointless. 10ms? That's well below the threshold of what a human can notice. Maybe there's some advanced setting that really turns up the lag and setting it to Fast counters it, but for now it's a mystery why they bother adding in an option with an unnoticeable effect.

For giggles, I turned 2D->3D conversion on and measured the video lag. I was expecting seriously bad results, but here's what I got:

Frame Response set to Normal: 120ms
Frame Response set to Fast: 113ms

Same ~10ms difference between Fast and Normal. Again, rather pointless. Either way, 2D-3D conversion doesn't add as much lag as I suspected it might. There also is no difference in the lag between the various modes of 3D upconversion. They all registered the same.

Now, what about frame creation?

Frame Creation Mode 1: 89ms
Frame Creation Mode 2: 89ms
Frame Creation Mode 3: 89ms

Interestingly it appears frame creation is always on, even when set to off. I don't think this was the case with the AE4000. Probably has something to do with having to run the panels at 240hz or 480hz constantly. So some level of frame creation is always there, even if it's just repeating frames as-is and not doing any sort of tweening or interpolation. The shock is that the modes don't add any lag. With the AE4000, mode 1 added about 75ms of lag and modes 2 and 3 got worse, with mode 3 adding something like 250ms of lag. Whatever image processor chip they're using in the AE7000 is orders of magnitude faster.

One thing to remember about this is that there's additional lag being added by the round-trip wireless signal to the controller that's doing the measurement. However, because that stays the same during all the tests, the numbers are a good reference against each other. The actual raw latency numbers are probably 15ms to 20ms lower than these here, though, because of this effect.

I hope these numbers will be of use to someone.
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post #257 of 4344
10/5/11 at 12:17pm
Ok guys I get my 7k this Friday as I had to cancel my order with one vendor and go with another long story. I also will be adding the Lumagen RadianceMini 3D processor with it. Ill update you my thoughts friday night.... . : )
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post #258 of 4344
10/5/11 at 12:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by widerscreen View Post

Ok guys I get my 7k this Friday as I had to cancel my order with one vendor and go with another long story. I also will be adding the Lumagen RadianceMini 3D processor with it. Ill update you my thoughts friday night.... . : )

Why spend the extra bucks on Lumagen.

Outboard Video Processors are OBSOLETE in my humble opinion.

I know - you did not ask for it
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post #259 of 4344
10/5/11 at 12:26pm
Okay, so PP hooked me up with a new 7000 after the first one's main board went kaput. Got it today and spent the last couple hours hooking it up and adjusting the settings.

This is my 3rd Panny projector, going from an RS1 to an AE3000 to an AE4000 and now this in the last 5 years. I use a 2.37:1 AR Carada Brilliant White (1.3 gain) 128" wide.

Some quick impressions...
I have to say right off that I notice a bigger difference between the 4k and the 7k than I did when I upgraded from the 3k to the 4k in terms of brightness and blacks. Color saturation looks about the same from what I can tell so far.
As people have already reported, the joystick is a joke. I actually didn't care much for the wheel on the previous models but I would take that any day over this joystick. It was really difficult fine tuning it, i.e. every time I wanted to go half inch to the left, it also went down or up some. Then I would have to adjust that and my left/right would get off again. Major PIA. Took me a while but eventually I got it. Hopefully, I won't have to touch that much, if ever again.
My lens memories setup was straight forward like it was for the 4k. Just popped in some 1.85:1, 2.35:1 and 2.40:1 movies and did the adjustments. For now that's all I need but I will get around to doing 1.33:1 as well.
I know there's been some questions about the processing alert when it's changing memories. I can tell you that yes, the processing does still pop up, but the good news is that it goes away within a second or two. The actual adjustment is much faster than it was on my 4k. I would say it took about 5 seconds before and now it's within 2 seconds. So they seem to have sped that up which is nice.
The main reason I upgraded was to have 3D in my basement theater and I can report already that the investment is worth it. Despicable Me in 3D looked amazing. I did switch over to normal picture mode (I was using Cinema 1 for regular Directv and blu-rays). No ghosting on anything I saw but I only watched about 30 min. Brightness seemed perfect to me; it was brighter than I remember in the movie theater anyway. The new Panny 3D glasses are very lightweight (much nicer and lighter than the Samsung ones I have for my plasma). The family is really going to enjoy this feature.
Next step is fine tuning the picture with the Spears and Munsil blu calibration disc.

Oh, one other thing, no problem at all with using the lens memory in 3D. You just have to remember to select which setting you want before inputing the 3D blu-ray. Then it will play with whichever lens memory you've selected.
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post #260 of 4344
10/5/11 at 12:52pm
Excellent, good to hear about lens mem timing and 3D in scope!
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post #261 of 4344
10/5/11 at 1:21pm
Any word on shipping from AVS? I'm eagerly awaiting mine.
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post #262 of 4344
10/5/11 at 1:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by S.A.M. View Post

I found with my 4000 that ceiling mounting resulted in more fan noise than mounting upright on shelf - it seemed like the fan was not happy running upside-down - so I made a shelf hanging from the ceiling for the 4000 and that is how I run the 7000.

I liked how quiet the 4000 is in Eco mode. How quiet is the 7000 by comparison?
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post #263 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:12pm
so what does everyone think of the panasonic 3D glasses? i find the active shutter too small, aka i can see lots of extra light under the glasses etc, just wondering if anyone has tested any of the 3rd party glasses out there somthing with a bigger lense to cover the eyes more? i have a few pairs of small and the orignal ones that came with my panasonic vt25 i think the only diference in the v3's are the weight. The glasses seem to be large overall my head size fits right on the boarder between top end of small/ bottom end of large, does anyone elese find the glasses big? i'm trying to findout if thers a better solution to 3D glasses vs using the panasonic ones. thoughts?
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post #264 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

Okay, so PP hooked me up with a new 7000 after the first one's main board went kaput. Got it today and spent the last couple hours hooking it up and adjusting the settings.

This is my 3rd Panny projector, going from an RS1 to an AE3000 to an AE4000 and now this in the last 5 years. I use a 2.37:1 AR Carada Brilliant White (1.3 gain) 128" wide.

Some quick impressions...
I have to say right off that I notice a bigger difference between the 4k and the 7k than I did when I upgraded from the 3k to the 4k in terms of brightness and blacks. Color saturation looks about the same from what I can tell so far.
As people have already reported, the joystick is a joke. I actually didn't care much for the wheel on the previous models but I would take that any day over this joystick. It was really difficult fine tuning it, i.e. every time I wanted to go half inch to the left, it also went down or up some. Then I would have to adjust that and my left/right would get off again. Major PIA. Took me a while but eventually I got it. Hopefully, I won't have to touch that much, if ever again.
My lens memories setup was straight forward like it was for the 4k. Just popped in some 1.85:1, 2.35:1 and 2.40:1 movies and did the adjustments. For now that's all I need but I will get around to doing 1.33:1 as well.
I know there's been some questions about the processing alert when it's changing memories. I can tell you that yes, the processing does still pop up, but the good news is that it goes away within a second or two. The actual adjustment is much faster than it was on my 4k. I would say it took about 5 seconds before and now it's within 2 seconds. So they seem to have sped that up which is nice.
The main reason I upgraded was to have 3D in my basement theater and I can report already that the investment is worth it. Despicable Me in 3D looked amazing. I did switch over to normal picture mode (I was using Cinema 1 for regular Directv and blu-rays). No ghosting on anything I saw but I only watched about 30 min. Brightness seemed perfect to me; it was brighter than I remember in the movie theater anyway. The new Panny 3D glasses are very lightweight (much nicer and lighter than the Samsung ones I have for my plasma). The family is really going to enjoy this feature.
Next step is fine tuning the picture with the Spears and Munsil blu calibration disc.

Oh, one other thing, no problem at all with using the lens memory in 3D. You just have to remember to select which setting you want before inputing the 3D blu-ray. Then it will play with whichever lens memory you've selected.

What do you think about the black levels?
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post #265 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by viper14 View Post

so what does everyone think of the panasonic 3D glasses? i find the active shutter too small, aka i can see lots of extra light under the glasses etc, just wondering if anyone has tested any of the 3rd party glasses out there somthing with a bigger lense to cover the eyes more? i have a few pairs of small and the orignal ones that came with my panasonic vt25 i think the only diference in the v3's are the weight. The glasses seem to be large overall my head size fits right on the boarder between top end of small/ bottom end of large, does anyone elese find the glasses big? i'm trying to findout if thers a better solution to 3D glasses vs using the panasonic ones. thoughts?

With my 3D Panasonic Plasma TV I found a partial solution to the old style 3D glasses being uncomfortable...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19412372

It aint perfect, but it is much more comfortable with the hat than without
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post #266 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

Since I will have more than 1 av device that will be outputting HDMI, I am going to buy the 4x2 switch. It is only about $80 and a new Receiver or Blu Ray player will be a bit more. This setup will allow 4 Hdmi's in to 2 outputs.
One output will go to the Onkyo receiver for full bandwidth audio and the other to the projector for HD 3D. I can run a 2nd line out of the Onkyo to the projector for onscreen menus and anything else that needs to be scaled up to 1080P.

I don't believe that will work. Your source device is still going to do a handshake with every device in the HDMI chain (both outputs of the splitter). One of the purposes of this handshake is to find the common set of capabilities of the entire HDMI chain to ensure that the source device is sending a signal that all devices know how to handle. During the handshake the projector will respond with "I can handle 3D!", and your receiver will say "3D? What's that?", so your source device will then disallow 3D because not all connected devices support it.

A source with 2 HDMI outputs is able to negotiate the video and audio connections seperately.

Sorry, I really wish a splitter would solve the problem as it would save me some money as well.
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post #267 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by xamphear View Post


I took these measurements over HDMI while bypassing my receiver, so this lag is the just the lag inside the AE7000. 2D, Cinema 1, Frame Creation OFF.

Frame Response set to Normal: 91ms
Frame Response set to Fast: 81msFrame Creation Mode 1: 89ms

Frame Creation Mode 2: 89ms
Frame Creation Mode 3: 89ms
.

Thanks Mate.

I thought their was a 'game' mode which allowed the 4000 to get less than 50ms. Is that no longer the case?
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post #268 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:56pm
Looks like most folks are happy with their units. But where are the pictures??? Let see some nice PICs (even though the Pics may not be an absolute depiction of the real thing).
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post #269 of 4344
10/5/11 at 2:58pm
how does the vpl-hw30aes compare with the pt-ae 7000?
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post #270 of 4344
10/5/11 at 3:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

You don't run a cable. It is a small converter box that sits on the projector. Recieves IR and output RS232.

Look here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206105

No. I am using a Global Caché + IRule to control the equipments. I send a tcp/ip code from my ipad/ipod to Global Caché who convert the signal to RS-232 (can convert to IR too) and send to AE4000 over a cable. I can control any device from anywhere in my house over network. Its not need to send IR controls. The IRule can control devices over network directly if this equipment accept tcp/ip. I think i will not have problem to control my devices because all devices that i control over IR are covered by the IR emitter from Global Caché and i send the codes over TCP/IP from the Ipad/ipod.
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