OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 109

Really?

I use Game mode for my 3D settings as well. Most likely has something to do with the quicker lag feature every gamer talks about. Cross-talk at a minimum using Game.

Wolfie

Originally Posted by horizone
I wasn't. It's completely different. I was comparing percieved motion. Oh and by the way, Panasonic has nothing named RealD.


It's even shown on the first page of the instruction manual.

Wolfie

This sounds like the same issue I am having. I wasn't watching anything with a ticker or crawler but if I were it would have looked the way you have described it. It looks like it is skipping a bunch of frames for a second and then it goes back to normal. I have not tried game mode to get rid of it. I don't really like the colors in game mode and it looks like it would take quite a bit of adjustment to get game mode to look like Rec709. I don't think I should have to use game mode to watch standard HD content without frame skipping. I am going to try swapping some cables out and then bypassing the audio receiver. If neither of those resolves it then I will be calling Panasonic for a resolution.

And on the exterior of the box that the projector ships in.

Please post your results here. I recently tried using a hdmi enhancer to fix the problem, but it didn't work. I have an older 25' monoprice HDMI cable and was thinking switching it out for a high speed one. But your already using a high speed one and have the problem. Hmm, one think I haven't tried is bypassing my Pioneer AVR.

Ok, You got me. I don't even own a 7000. Felling a little stupid now. I run dual passive with two 3000 and Panavision filters but I have been following this thread in the hopes that the 7000 would be superior to my passive solution. I didn't realise for a second that RealD was putting their brand name on consumer products. Ah well, I stand corrected.

I deserve that picture. and I won't be posting anymore here since just realised the capitalized OWNERS in the title. I was just initially trying to help someone without realizing I posted in a thread where I shouldn't. Feeling even more stupid now.

I swapped out cables and it doesn't seem to have made a difference. I haven't tried bypassing the receiver yet. That will be an experiment for another day.

For some reason I am getting a small black bar only at the top of the screen on certain bluray material. About 3 inches or so. If I zoom the image to fit the screen, then other material spill over the edges slightly. Anyone know how to fix this. Is this just a strange aspect ratio for some material. I was thinking of using the masking feature for the top only but will that affect the overall image quality.

Keith

If your source material has a higher aspect ratio than your screen then you're gonna get bars top and bottom. This is common. Many movies are 2.35:1, but a 16x9 screen is only 1.78:1.

I know about 2.35.1 ect...those movies are normally letterboxed...but what I'm experiencing is a 3 inch black bar only at the top of the screen. What would cause this?

Hello all, I hate to butt in right in the middle of another question being asked, but I have a question of my own.

I'm seriously considering the Panny, but I've read posts where people complained about the edges of the screen out of focus compared to the center of the screen (can't seem to find the post again).

With that said, I've searched this thread to see if anyone is using a curved screen and if they are seeing any differnece (good or bad) compared to a standard flat screen. Found nothing...

I found this 130" 2.35:1 on ebay that I am seriously considering.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130-2-35-1-1...item3f15fb1452
My room is pretty small though and I will only have about 11' 6" throw distance. So I guess this is a two part question.

1. Will a curved screen application work? Will it work well?

and

2. Is a 130" screen too large if I'm only sitting 11' away from it?

Thanks in advance for your input.

So I bought the Pany ae7000 after black friday last year. It's hooked up to my integra DTR-70.2. I have a PS3, HTPC, Xbox360, and a Dish network unit plugged into the Integra. At times it just gets stuck at the input screen flashing to black. When I switch inputs sometimes it does the same thing. THe only way I get it to project is to switch hdmi input selections and/or flip inputs back and forth or a combo. Only one HDMI is connected to the projector. I also notice it does this when I play a 3d movie and when its over it will get stuck at that flashing input screen. It will never lock without doing what I mentioned b4. Anyone else have this issue? My ptae4000 had the exact same cabling and never had this issue. It's getting annoying to the point of sending it in. Any help would be nice.
thanks.

IIRC, if your throw ratio is more than 2.0, then there is not a lot of need for a curved screen. OTOH, if your throw ratio is significantly below 2.0, then you may need a curved screen.


There are recommended viewing angles that tell you what distance is theoretically optimum. A 2.35:1 screen with 130" diagonal is 120" wide. If your viewing distance is 11' (i.e., 132") then your viewing angle is roughly 50 degrees. That's more than the THX home theater recommended maximum of 40 degrees. Your optimum distance would be about 14'.

However, everyone is different--some people like to sit close. If possible, you should try sitting at the same viewing angle in a demo theater to see if you like it or not.

Bah it happens to us all. Keep posting.

Ok, thanks. I am going to have to research throw ratios. When you say there is not a lot of "need" for a curved screen does that imply that it will still work, just not 100% necessary?


Seen a few Epsons on display locally, haven't seen a Panny on Demo but I'll keep looking. Thanks for the response.

My bad. Sorry for not reading your post correctly. I don't think I've seen anything like you describe. Do you have an example of some of the movies that do this?

Did you adjustable your Top Masking in the projector menu? It will cause that bar if you go too far.

I highly recommend not cheaping out on your screen, I bought my screen from Carada and have been very happy. (It wasn't even much more)

I have a 136" 2.35:1 screen and sit about 13' away and it looks great. My projector is at 16'.

As far as using the top masking. Actually if I use it, I'm able to artificially make all material fit the screen, even the random films that have the slight black bar at top. My question is, does using masking like this all the time, affect the picture quality?

Ps. Still trying to figure out why some material even has the thin black space at top...not sure. I'll take some pics later to better explain.


Keith

Do you have Tron 3D Dreamliner? How is it on your screen?..The lens won't shift between 1.78:1 and 2.35:1 ratio when i watch it in 3D . Not sure what to do.

Anyone with 2.35:1 screen, how do you set up your screen and AE7000 when u have to watch a 3D movie that has two aspect ratio in it like Tron 3D. since the auto lens shift won't work when u watch it in 3D.

I set it to 2.35:1 at the beginning but when the 3D imax scenes come. It's too big for my screen and i can't do the auto shift or zoom functions.

sorry for my English

Do you have a 2.35:1 screen? If so, I've noticed when the projector goes from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 the image shifts down, so you need to adjust the height up (on the actual lens) on 1.85:1 and mask it so 2.35:1 lines up right.

I do not have Tron 3d, but I do have movies with imax content and I just need deal with the larger image.

The projector zoom controls are disabled when it's in 3d mode, you need to change the zoom mode before you start the movie and leave it in on that setting for the whole time.

So, if I have a 2.35:1 screen and I try to watch The Dark Knight, the projector will use lens shift to switch aspect ratios and fill the screen vertically?

But, if the movie is in 3D (like Tron) and switches aspect ratios, then I just need to set it to IMAX aspect ratio and then during the 2.35:1 parts, it will just be black bars on top, bottom and sides?

Yes. If the projector is on auto detect it will switch by itself, but it takes a few seconds before the projector switches. You could do it manually if you want.

Yes.




Even though it's better, I wish there is a way to crop imax to 2.35:1 for continuity.

Agreed. I absolutely despise the ohlookatmeI'msocool change of aspect ratio in the middle of a movie.

Hello all,

I'm a projection newbie, and so far I have made it through 50 pages or so of this thread. I have picked up a ton of info but haven't seen this answered yet...

Currently I'm playing with the idea of using two screens, a fixed 106 -110 inch 2:35 or 2:40 Scope screen, and a secondary 16:9 106 inch electric or manual pull down.

I'd been planning to go with a fixed Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain for Scope, then realized many of the 3D films out there are in 16:9. Not sure I'd be happy with the size of the 16:9 image on the 106" 2:35 screen, and the vertical bars when watching 3D.

The majority of our viewing will be film and 3D titles, with a small amount of sports (big events), and occasional TV (PBS, Discovery, Nat Geo, HBO, Smithsonian).

I'm assuming using a dual screen setup would be possible with the lens memory setting? Eyes to screen will be at aprox. 12 feet. I was thinking of mounting the projector behind the seating area on some sort of low shelf. I'd prefer avoiding a ceiling mount (aesthetics), but will place it wherever it needs to be placed for the best PQ.

Any caveats as far as lens shift/projector placement? Any recommendations on a screen for the 16:9 pull down/electric?

I'll likely have this professionally installed/calibrated, but I don't know who is going to do that yet, so I just want to collect all info I can, while we're coordinating with the designers.

^ the projector holds 5 (or 6) lens save positions, so you have no problem doing what you are thinking about.

It also needs to be mounted at a height still within the screen image.

I would consider using a large 16 x 9 fixed screen with a screen masking system.

I do not like drop down screens, as you typically can see roller lines.

A masking system would without question have more if an awe effect.

With variable height screen masking, you could perfectly setup masking for 2.35:1, 2.39:1, 2.40:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1.

And regular TV could be 16x9 within 2.35:1.

You'd basically be able to mask anything from TV to IMAX without an bars or cropping.

Hi all, also new to this thread. Have been reading lots and also didn't find my answer.

Got a home theater of 32m2 with a 170" 2.35:1 screen with active masking and curtains to mask back to 16:9. All powered by the PT-AT5000, Onkyo TX-NR5009, Apple TV3 and a Media PC with the nVidia GForce GT430. All HDMI 1.4.
I just came from the TX-NR5007 and PT-AE3000.
All of the above including 5 different light sources are controlled by computer home automation software. The reason I bought the PT-AT5000 is because I could not control the 3000's Lens Memory using rs232 and I want all to be automatic! In the 5000/7000 I don't use the auto zoom feature but rather have my computer control the zoom. I can do that because my software knows the aspect of all my content. This way I can control the curtains and masking as well.

But since I now got the 5000 and all is HDMI1.4 I am looking into 3D as well.
My question is this: How do I get to auto detect 3D while using a PC? My setup doesn't detect my Side by Side nor my Over Under movies automatically hence I have to start punching buttons on my touchscreen again to go to the 3D menu and select the appropriate 3D standard which kind of defeats the point of automation

It is also difficult to come up with macro's for this since all the menus are too smart. The last cursor position is stored and they are rotary so I cannot reset the menu cursor to the top and than go down one to get to the right menu option. Also there are no rs232 commands other than the 3D menu itself to be called for what I want to select.


Other than that:
- Love the color output
- Seems to be more silent than my 3000 in ECO but way louder in Normal lamp mode
- 3D is very dim but I am still waiting for my third gen glasses. Now using 2nd gen so hopefully that will change some of the effects
- Obviously love the fact that Lens Memory can now be controlled using rs232 which was the reason I bought it in the first place.

So if anybody has any pointers as to get my system to autodetect 3D, I would much appreciate that!

Richard