OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 110

Originally Posted by Bumper

Hi all, also new to this thread. Have been reading lots and also didn't find my answer.

Got a home theater of 32m2 with a 170" 2.35:1 screen with active masking and curtains to mask back to 16:9. All powered by the PT-AT5000, Onkyo TX-NR5009, Apple TV3 and a Media PC with the nVidia GForce GT430. All HDMI 1.4.
I just came from the TX-NR5007 and PT-AE3000.
All of the above including 5 different light sources are controlled by computer home automation software. The reason I bought the PT-AT5000 is because I could not control the 3000's Lens Memory using rs232 and I want all to be automatic! In the 5000/7000 I don't use the auto zoom feature but rather have my computer control the zoom. I can do that because my software knows the aspect of all my content. This way I can control the curtains and masking as well.

But since I now got the 5000 and all is HDMI1.4 I am looking into 3D as well.
My question is this: How do I get to auto detect 3D while using a PC? My setup doesn't detect my Side by Side nor my Over Under movies automatically hence I have to start punching buttons on my touchscreen again to go to the 3D menu and select the appropriate 3D standard which kind of defeats the point of automation

It is also difficult to come up with macro's for this since all the menus are too smart. The last cursor position is stored and they are rotary so I cannot reset the menu cursor to the top and than go down one to get to the right menu option. Also there are no rs232 commands other than the 3D menu itself to be called for what I want to select.


Other than that:
- Love the color output
- Seems to be more silent than my 3000 in ECO but way louder in Normal lamp mode
- 3D is very dim but I am still waiting for my third gen glasses. Now using 2nd gen so hopefully that will change some of the effects
- Obviously love the fact that Lens Memory can now be controlled using rs232 which was the reason I bought it in the first place.

So if anybody has any pointers as to get my system to autodetect 3D, I would much appreciate that!

Richard

Originally Posted by Markoto

Do you have Tron 3D Dreamliner? How is it on your screen?..The lens won't shift between 1.78:1 and 2.35:1 ratio when i watch it in 3D . Not sure what to do.

Anyone with 2.35:1 screen, how do you set up your screen and AE7000 when u have to watch a 3D movie that has two aspect ratio in it like Tron 3D. since the auto lens shift won't work when u watch it in 3D.

I set it to 2.35:1 at the beginning but when the 3D imax scenes come. It's too big for my screen and i can't do the auto shift or zoom functions.

sorry for my English

Originally Posted by ckenisell

So, if I have a 2.35:1 screen and I try to watch The Dark Knight, the projector will use lens shift to switch aspect ratios and fill the screen vertically?

But, if the movie is in 3D (like Tron) and switches aspect ratios, then I just need to set it to IMAX aspect ratio and then during the 2.35:1 parts, it will just be black bars on top, bottom and sides?

Originally Posted by Wolfie

Unfortunately, 3D lens memory won't work with multi-aspect ratio movies. I would fix the lens memory to the tallest vertical AR of the film and go from there. You'll have the top and bottom black bars with the widescreen portions of the film, but it'll at least be watchable.

Wolfie

Originally Posted by Bumper

Some pictures as requested..

Originally Posted by TKNice

Has anyone found a solution to the slight lag that happens every once in a while for non-bluray material? I get it on my HTPC every few minutes and althought it is very slight, it still bothers me. I also notice it occasionally on fios/cable.

There are a lot of pages on it somewhere in the middle of the thread but I haven't seen anything on it for quite a while.

Blurays play fine. I assume this comes down to something about how the PS3 sends the signal vs a HTPC.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

^ the projector holds 5 (or 6) lens save positions, so you have no problem doing what you are thinking about.

It also needs to be mounted at a height still within the screen image.

I would consider using a large 16 x 9 fixed screen with a screen masking system.

I do not like drop down screens, as you typically can see roller lines.

A masking system would without question have more if an awe effect.

With variable height screen masking, you could perfectly setup masking for 2.35:1, 2.39:1, 2.40:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1.

And regular TV could be 16x9 within 2.35:1.

You'd basically be able to mask anything from TV to IMAX without an bars or cropping.

Originally Posted by Hyper_Eye

Is it similar to what ejhuzy and I discussed on the previous two pages (108 & 109)?

Originally Posted by TKNice

Has anyone found a solution to the slight lag that happens every once in a while for non-bluray material? I get it on my HTPC every few minutes and althought it is very slight, it still bothers me. I also notice it occasionally on fios/cable.

There are a lot of pages on it somewhere in the middle of the thread but I haven't seen anything on it for quite a while.

Blurays play fine. I assume this comes down to something about how the PS3 sends the signal vs a HTPC.

Originally Posted by Bumper

Probably discussed earlier as well, but video slowing down or speeding up every once in a while has to do with refresh rates vs audio syncing to video. Most movies are 23.975 frames per second so if 24p is selected the video will not be in sync resulting in frame dropping or chaning video speed to get the audio back in sync.
NTSC @ 25fps will be much more noticeable on 24p. Reclock tries to solve this issue by averaging this video frame problem so it can't be seen but still every now and then it shows. I had lots of trouble with it and it all went away when stepping up to 60Hz.
Simple thought; create multiples of the video frames into your Hz setting to give the computer some time to fix the problem.
24 * 2.5 = 60 (Cinema)
30 * 2 = 60 (NTSC)
25 * x = 60 (PAL) -> at least the pc has much time or many frames to fix your sync.

Now try 24 frames @ 50Hz. 2 * 24 = 48 leaving the pc with 2 frames thus creating a problem which shows in speed changes in video. Hope this makes a bit of sense. Just up your refresh rate to the highest possible and you will see the least lip sync problems together with video speed changes.

Originally Posted by Bumper

It is also difficult to come up with macro's for this since all the menus are too smart. The last cursor position is stored and they are rotary so I cannot reset the menu cursor to the top and than go down one to get to the right menu option. Also there are no rs232 commands other than the 3D menu itself to be called for what I want to select.

Originally Posted by Hyper_Eye

I can't fix the issue the same way obviously because I am not using an HTPC. I am having this issue with Directv and Xbox 360. I still need to try bypassing my receiver. Should bypassing my receiver work I am still going to have an issue though as that is not really an option.

Originally Posted by ejhuzy

I'm having the issue with a Directv DVR that doesn't give me the control over the frame rate. I believe everything is output at 60p/i.

Hyper, I'm not sure what to hope for regarding removing the AVR from the equation. Either way we have a problem, either it's the AVR or the Panny.

What AVR are you using? I'm using a Pioneer Elite VSX-01.

I personally believe this is a bug in the 7k. Just my guess though.

Originally Posted by modul8tr

recommended 106" 2:4:1, and no larger than 110" as perfect. They offered to bring a projector and audition sizes before making a final decision. Also, we're limited on throw distance as well, so screens above 115" won't work according to the Panny calculator.

Originally Posted by modul8tr

BUT, you are right, the 113" 16:9 Black Diamond (55.5" x 98.6"), will accommodate the same Scope image as the 106" 2:4:1 screen (40.8" x 97.8") that I was planning on. How would I project the 2:35 image, so that it appears exactly as it would zoomed on a Scope screen (40.8" x 97.8")? Does all of this limit how/where I mount the projector?

Originally Posted by xamphear

My AE7000 died today. Turned it on for the first time in about a week and the lamp light started blinking and it shut off. The lamp is fine and when I called support and told them the lamp status light was blinking and not solid, they immediately told me I had to send it back for repair. Cross-shipping was not an option and they don't cover shipping to (only back from) so that's costing me $40. No clue when I'll get it back, either. All told, not a fun evening.

Originally Posted by xamphear

My AE7000 died today. Turned it on for the first time in about a week and the lamp light started blinking and it shut off. The lamp is fine and when I called support and told them the lamp status light was blinking and not solid, they immediately told me I had to send it back for repair. Cross-shipping was not an option and they don't cover shipping to (only back from) so that's costing me $40. No clue when I'll get it back, either. All told, not a fun evening.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

Bummer. Keep us updated. How many hours? I'm already over 1200, I'm glad I bought the 4 year extended warranty.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

Bummer. Keep us updated. How many hours? I'm already over 1200, I'm glad I bought the 4 year extended warranty.

Originally Posted by Wolfie


Dude, seriously, how are you gonna cope? Do you have a back-up pj? That's what I have, just in case. My old pj still works and I have it as a back-up. It would still be a pain to remove if mine went down, though. So far, no problems for me.

Originally Posted by xamphear

My AE7000 died today. Turned it on for the first time in about a week and the lamp light started blinking and it shut off. The lamp is fine and when I called support and told them the lamp status light was blinking and not solid, they immediately told me I had to send it back for repair. Cross-shipping was not an option and they don't cover shipping to (only back from) so that's costing me $40. No clue when I'll get it back, either. All told, not a fun evening.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

My projector is at about 16 feet from the screen and I'm about 14 feet away.

My screen is 136" (scope).

Make sure to calculate distance using the manual (downloadable).

I really think it's tough to go "too big". If you go too small, you'll eventually want bigger, I've never seen a 'its too big' thread.

If your using a 16:9 screen, you'd never need to adjust the projector for anything other than TV (if you wanted it smaller to maintain the awe-effect of movies).

Think of it this way: scope is referred to as CIH (constant image height) because the height stays the same for all aspects and the width changes.... 16x9 is CIW (constant image width) because the width stays the same for all aspects and the height changes.

If I was planning a dedicated room, personally, I would choose a 16x9 screen limited only by physical room limitations (ceiling, heads, etc). I would get one that is acoustically transparent and put my speakers behind it.

Go see an IMAX movie and tell me you notice that the 95% of the film isn't filling the screen horizontally.

Go big, fill your field of vision and post pics.

Originally Posted by modul8tr

From your pics it looks like you have a white ceiling? Does the back scatter from the ceiling negatively affect the PQ on your Carada? Or are you finding the Panasonic bright enough to offset this? Our ceiling is going to be a crisp white, with dark'ish blue walls. This is part of the reason I was going to go Black Diamond, however, if I find it's not such a big deal I might consider a Stewart, Carada, or Da-LIte.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

My projector is at about 16 feet from the screen and I'm about 14 feet away.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

I really think it's tough to go "too big". If you go too small, you'll eventually want bigger, I've never seen a 'its too big' thread.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

Think of it this way: scope is referred to as CIH (constant image height) because the height stays the same for all aspects and the width changes.... 16x9 is CIW (constant image width) because the width stays the same for all aspects and the height changes.

Originally Posted by Dreamliner

If I was planning a dedicated room, personally, I would choose a 16x9 screen limited only by physical room limitations (ceiling, heads, etc). Go see an IMAX movie and tell me you notice that the 95% of the film isn't filling the screen horizontally.

Go big, fill your field of vision and post pics.