OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 117

Because it started out at $3200.

I was just about to pull the trigger on upgrading my Pioneer Kuro FPJ-1 (JVC IDLA RS2). Mainly, I wanted something that's brighter and 3D capable. I still love the film like look of this projector. Has anyone here upgraded from this projector? Does PT AE7000U match or surpass JVC RS2's 2D performance?

I did a lot of research on PT AE7000U and was impressed with all the raving reviews. Some of the key points that made me want to upgrade were:

1. quiet fan noise
2. film like 2D
3. descent 3D.

I was ready to bite the bullet. Then, I read some of the postings I found on this thread.

It seems as though a lot of 7000U owners are having trouble with flickering issue. Far too many to be considered normal and their poor customer service doesn't help either. This is a serious offense for me as flickering like this would drive me nuts! I even contacted Panasonic via email and over the phone. They said that earlier models had flickering issues, but any projector manufactured after August 2011 should be fine. Well, I know this isn't true, because a lot of owners with September and October 2011 are still experiencing this problem.

However, I haven't heard too much about flickering on later postings, so my question is: does anyone know if Panasonic did anything to fix this problem? I would be really upset if I upgrade the projector just to have flickering problem later down the road.

Thanks in advance,

Mine flickered for about 10-20 hours at around the 200 hour mark on the bulb. It passed and has not happened since. I LOVE this projector and am continuously impressed at the image it throws out. I had the AE3000U before this.

Attachment 245870

Well I rma'd and got a call yesterday. Was told this was normal. I just refuse to believe that. What would y'all suggest?

What $300 rebate you talkin' bout?

Wolfie

Hyper,

I've been off the forum for a couple weeks and was wondering if you got anywhere with your problem?

I'm still waiting for a call back from Panasonic. I've been sick the last few days so I have had little incentive to call and bug them. I figured I would give them some time to look into the issue. If I don't hear anything soon I will call. They did provide me with a case number.

You could try tweaking your V and H sharpness under advanced to see if it will offset, but it will probably not do much

Does anyone elses projector look like the picture I posted?

Mine has a little a bit of that, blue fringing along one edge or misconvergence but your's looks extra bad going by that photo.

Lens memory remembers the settings of zoom and focus, but not the lens shift, right?
The top of 2.35 and 1.78 image will be at the same height, but my 1.78 image will be higher then 2.35 image. h=7'1"(1.78) and h=6'2"(2.35)
So, when I'll switch from 16/9 to 2.35/1, I guess, I should correct the vertical lens shift manually.
Right? or I miss something? Thanks.

Thanks for reply You're absolutely right about the lumens. I'll have to increase budget. That doesn't makes me happy, but seems like I will buy Epson 6010 with a-lens. It'll let me use all of lumens and pixels in scope mode also. Not sure yet, I really don't want to use money for a-lens may be 5010 without lens... I don't know.


That's very interesting. Can panny really shift the image up or down without using the lens shift?

I suggest telling them they're wrong. From your picture at least, that convergence looks pretty bad.


Old news. From a few months back, no longer available.

I'm having a problem powering up my ae7000, the remote won't wait the 30 seconds to power up before it switches the input, therefore I have to do it manually every time I power it up. I had 2 other projectors before this one and both didn't have this problem, they both waited the 30 seconds and the remote would say "powering on devices". I've tried troubleshooting it with no luck, it brings me to the delays screen but putting the power on delay to 30000 ms does nothing. Please help!!

Which Harmony do you have? I just experienced the same problem this evening and I have addressed it. I'm using the Harmony 900.

1. On the Activities tab, click the Settings button on the activity that you want the input delay (you will have to repeat this for each activity that requires an input change).
2. Select the Review the settings for this Activity option and press the NEXT > button.
3. Select the Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity. option and press the NEXT > button.
4. Click the SAVE button.
5. Select the input you require and press the NEXT > button.
6. If you have a receiver that switched inputs, select the correct input and press the NEXT > button.
7. This is where it gets fun...in the "enter this Activity" table on the top, it will say, "Add action for" and then a drop-down menu. Select the Projector from the menu. Then click the Add> button.
8. Change the "Send this infrared delay:" drop-down menu to "10 seconds" and press the NEXT > button.
9. You should now see the "The remote pauses for 10000 milliseconds" action at the bottom of the table on top.
10. Make sure the projector is still selected from the drop-down menu and click the Add> button again.
11. This time, change the "Set it to this input:" drop-down menu to the input you require and select the NEXT > button.
12. You should now see an additional entry for changing the input on the projector. Click the SAVE > button.
13. Review everything finalize.

If you need more time, you can always add more pause entries to the table. The only problem is that every time you switch between activities (even if your projector is already on) you'll have to wait until all of the IR has been sent before you can use the remote for anything else. Small price to pay for having it all work correctly.

If you have the Harmony ONE, it may be a little different for you, but I can't help you with that one.

Let me know.

.

.

No you use image position or something it is called in the lense memory settings, this is saved with the rest of the settings. It allows you to move the 2.35 image down. No reason to ever use the manual shift.

I deleted my post because I was wrong, there is seperate vertical image shift in the lens control menu that allows you to position the scope image anywhere within the 16:9 framing that then can be saved to memory. I tried it and it works very well, no need to adjust lense shift as long as the scope image falls within the 16:9 framing, this does restrict how much lens shift you can use though, it could be a problem if you mounted the projector directly on ceiling for example.

Mine is mounted up side down to the ceiling and I can adjust the 2.35:1 image vertically easily without problems. The only issue I had with my 3000 at first is that I set the vertical at 28 and did a memory save. After that I never reset it manually to 0 so before I got on to the solution, my picture was always 28 down after a fresh projecter start because 28 was the last manually set setting. After I manually put it back at 0, it also started the 16:9 at vertical offset. I guess the 7000 will do the same but never tested it.


Flickering:
I own a 5000 (220V) and read lots about flickering but always on the 7000. Are there 5000 users with the same problem?
Are there 220Volt users with the flickering problem?

Has anyone used chromapure/display3 pro to calibrate this projector? If so, what meter setting/mode did you use? Also, what were the results like?

Panasonic called me today and essentially wanted me to do the same things I have already done. Try a shorter HDMI cable. I told them my cables are short. They said try a different brand. I told them all my cables are Monoprice cables. The guy told me people who are higher up the chain than him told him that Monoprice cables can be a problem. I found that to be a surprising statement as I have never heard anything but good things about Monoprice cables and I have been buying them for years. I use them with all my displays and with all the projectors I've had before the PT-AE7000U and this is the only time I've ever seen an issue. I went ahead and got a different brand cable from a friend and it did not make a difference which is what I expected.

One thing that was a little bit of a problem is that he said the problem is almost certainly the source. I told him these same devices and cables worked fine with other projectors at the same resolution and this is the second PT-AE7000U I have tried with the same issue. I also told him that I have seen a number of other people reporting the same issue here. He said that they have not been getting reports of this problem. So if you are seeing this issue please call Panasonic and get a case opened. It seems they are going to need to receive enough calls about this before they will consider that the projector might have an issue.

They should be calling me again within the next few days. I will report again when I have more information.

Them they they need to invest in an education about how HDMI cables actually work. The signal is DIGITAL and NOT ANALOG so if you're getting a picture, the HDMI cable is doing it's job properly. The HDMI cable links two devices that sent 1's and 0's back and forth. So, if it's working, you get a picture, if it's not, you don't. It really is that simple. Anything that is like image shift or dropped frames or ANYTHING like that, it's either the source or the display device. It's NOT the cable.

Wow, that's a bold statement and you couldn't be more wrong.

HDMI cables run 1's and 0's yes but without a checksum and at very high bandwidth without a twist in the cable pairs like CAT 5 and up does.
A 1 or 0 can be easily deformed directly resulting in artifacts when you are lucky or loss of EDID when not so lucky.

Voltage drops over length drop a 5 volt one to under 3 volts and the 1 becomes a zero. Not such an issue with short cables but very much at lengths 5mtr's and up.

EM can ruin your day at any time and any length so shielding (or in other words higher quality cables) does matter!

I would advise to do a wiki on crosstalk on hdmi and educate yourself..
HDMI cables are known to be source number one for all kinds of problems.

Richard

Bumper don't believe everything you read on wiki.

True statement. Doesn't change my own experience and science though..

I will agree. I have had loose HDMI cables created a colored snow effect. I oringinally thought that HDMI was go or no go also, but that is not the case.

Yah, it's not completely GO or NO-GO, but it is closer to this than analog cables. Hence, the signal will drop out or be obviously deformed once the signal gets too corrupted. With an analog cable you can have almost any type of bad signal without a blank out. It depends on the device to how quickly it will refuse/drop the corrupted HDMI signal.

Hyper,

I have Monoprice cables too, but that's hardly a smoking gun on this forum. I'll call Panasonic this week and report my problems.

For the most part you are right about HDMI, I just cringe when people say to go read wiki for facts as most of us know it can be completely false quite often.