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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 121

post #3601 of 4344
6/4/12 at 1:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by raehza View Post

While watching movies its not an issue, but when trying to read smaller words, the words become washed up. An example is, when I switch to my PC and project a website, some words are hard to read.

Ray

This projector was never designed for web-sites and small text etc. It's a home-cinema projector.
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post #3602 of 4344
6/4/12 at 1:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by raehza View Post

While watching movies its not an issue, but when trying to read smaller words, the words become washed up. An example is, when I switch to my PC and project a website, some words are hard to read.

Ray

DLPs are normally better at this sort of stuff. I use my JVC RS45 from time to time as you describe. The words are readable and surprisingly not blurry at all. It is a home cinema projector as well.
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post #3603 of 4344
6/4/12 at 2:48pm
Single chip DLP is usually better about it for the same reason single chip LCD is usually better about it. There is no convergence. A 3DLP system would have the same flaws.
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post #3604 of 4344
6/4/12 at 2:49pm
It's all about your screen resolution on your PC. You can set the resolution to 1280x720 and still have it in 1080p. That should clear up the words. (Resolution will still be 1920x1080, but the desktop will resize to 1280x720).

You can thank microsoft true type fonts for that problem.
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post #3605 of 4344
6/5/12 at 12:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Eye View Post

Single chip DLP is usually better about it for the same reason single chip LCD is usually better about it. There is no convergence. A 3DLP system would have the same flaws.

Yeah, thanks for the clarification..I was referring to single chip DLPs. I didn't know they made 3 chip DLPs in the Panasonic's price range. Who makes single chip LCD projectors? Never seen or heard of one. Must be something new
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post #3606 of 4344
6/6/12 at 7:18am
If I bought a 130" 2.35:1 Curved Screen, does the Panny have the capability to compensate for the curve? I know I'm missing some technical terms here, but I'm just wondering if I would be shooting myself in the foot by purchasing a curve screen. I really like the dramatic look of a curved screen, but the last thing I would want to do is handicap the capability of the projector and make the outside edges blurry or some non-sense like that.

BTW, I would be sitting 11' away from the screen.

I asked a similar question about a month ago, but didn't get the clarification I was looking for.

Yes, it will be ok to purchase a curved screen.
No, the projector would not be able to compensate for the curve. (and some other reason, etc...)
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post #3607 of 4344
6/6/12 at 7:22am
You know what, since I'm here I might as well ask another question. I posted this on a different thread, but I'm not sure if it's going to gain any traction and I believe it is relevant to this topic regardless.

I pulled this information from the Panny AE7000U spec sheet.

2-35-1PannySpec.jpg

Note that it states that I need a minimum throw distance of 9' 4" to achieve a 120" diagonal screen size with the next step up on the chart being 150" at 11' 9". Keeping that in mind, I will have about a 12' throw distance where I plan on mounting my projector. I am space limited to 130" diagonal, so given the spec sheet, I should be good to go. (can I get a sanity check/confirmation????)

This is where I need help. Will the "lens memory" function on the Panny allow the 16:9 content to shrink within the confines of the 2.35:1 screen height.

This is the screen I plan on getting (2.35:1)
2-35-1.jpg

This is what I want to achieve when watching 16:9 content:
2-35-1at16-9.jpg

This is what I want to avoid:
2-35-1w16-9Overflow2.jpg

Help please!
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post #3608 of 4344
6/6/12 at 9:01pm
attempting to use this new horrendous Forum on the iPad with ads taking up all the space...

Anyway, yes you are good to go on the first thing. On the second you are also good to go. You start with 16:9 centered on your screen and zoom in to fit 2.35:1 to full width. You don't lose any image. However, you do need to have the projector lens no higher than the top edge of the screen to avoid having to use the manual shift joystick to correct for offset.
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post #3609 of 4344
6/6/12 at 11:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carey P View Post

You start with 16:9 centered on your screen and zoom in to fit 2.35:1 to full width. You don't lose any image.

I have done exactly that with the ae7000u, but my question is this: When zooming from 16:9 to 2.35:1, the 2.35:1 video fits the 2.35:1 screen exactly. However, there is still a good amount of light that is being projected onto the wall below the screen (where the black bar is supposed to be.) Using the "Crop" feature on the bottom of the video does not help.

Is there any way to stop the projector from sending light where the black bars are in the video? I suppose, what I'm trying to do, is crop a 16:9 video to 2.35:1. Is that possible?
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post #3610 of 4344
6/7/12 at 3:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carey P View Post

attempting to use this new horrendous Forum on the iPad with ads taking up all the space...
Anyway, yes you are good to go on the first thing. On the second you are also good to go. You start with 16:9 centered on your screen and zoom in to fit 2.35:1 to full width. You don't lose any image. However, you do need to have the projector lens no higher than the top edge of the screen to avoid having to use the manual shift joystick to correct for offset.

You know, I've heard that a lot... For those who are (or will be) running a 2.35:1 screen vs. a 16:9 does the projector still have to be within the height/bottom tollerances of the screen 2.35:1. I ask because in a 16:9 image is a lot taller than the 2.35:1. So if you notice my post, the overflow of the 16:9 reaches a lot higher than the 2.35:1 screen. Does the projector have to be within the 16:9 or 2.35:1 tolerance in otfer for the "zoom" function to work properly. If I can get by with having it in the 16:9 top edge it would give me a little more space to play with to allow me to center my screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I have done exactly that with the ae7000u, but my question is this: When zooming from 16:9 to 2.35:1, the 2.35:1 video fits the 2.35:1 screen exactly. However, there is still a good amount of light that is being projected onto the wall below the screen (where the black bar is supposed to be.) Using the "Crop" feature on the bottom of the video does not help.
Is there any way to stop the projector from sending light where the black bars are in the video? I suppose, what I'm trying to do, is crop a 16:9 video to 2.35:1. Is that possible?

This is what I'm talking about. This is the end goal of what I am trying to accomplish as well. Based on what everyone is saying now, there will be light spillage no matter what. In a totally dark room this would drive me utterly insane!
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post #3611 of 4344
6/7/12 at 9:37am
To answer both of you. The 16:9 drawing is incorrect to begin with. As I said, this will be adjusted to fit within the upper and lower edges of your screen. When you switch to 2.35 mode (which is a setting you memorize), It will expand downward as it zooms in if ceiling mounted. The projector also memorizes the upper and lower masking as well as the vertical shift settings for the 2.35:1 mode. The masking reduces the light spillover. What light remains is very negligible though you should still use black velvet or similar around your screen to absorb spillover beyond the black frame.

I only use this function for the very seldom 2.4:1 3D movie when I can't use my anamorphic lens, so I'm not an expert in this area. However, I do know that I can't mount my projector any lower than it is with my 8ft ceiling and riser or it will hit heads. Therefore, I have to make my final tweak to center the 2.4:1 image using the dreaded joystick because the lens is a few inches higher than the top of the screen. 99% of the time, the A lens gets around this problem and provides a better picture anyway.
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post #3612 of 4344
6/7/12 at 10:05am
So, it sounds like the answer is: There is definitely light spillover outside of the 2.35:1 screen and the only way to "mask" it is to use a black light absorbing fabric. I am getting the Da-Lite masking system for the left and right cropping when in 16:9 mode, but it will only mask the sides, not the top of bottom outside of the screen frame.
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post #3613 of 4344
6/7/12 at 3:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post


Yeah, thanks for the clarification..I was referring to single chip DLPs. I didn't know they made 3 chip DLPs in the Panasonic's price range. Who makes single chip LCD projectors? Never seen or heard of one. Must be something new

s/chip/panel tongue.gif
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post #3614 of 4344
6/7/12 at 8:57pm
Funny, I have no trouble at all browsing websites, at least to me text is sharp and clear. Running windows desktop at 1080p resolution. Latest Catalyst drivers.

Overall quite happy with the 2D quality...3D-wise, bleh, nothing to rent, tried 3D trailers from Vudu - some look good, some are too dark. Almost everything is buy only - yeah, I am going to pay $35 for a 3D digital download, sure.

Bottom line - for me 2D quality is great and this is what I will be using it for 99.9% of the time, 3D is a gimmick to try out a few times a year.
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post #3615 of 4344
6/8/12 at 8:51am
I own probably 90% of the 3D BDs available to own. (The other 10% I just don't own because I'm not interested in their subject matter.) If purchased during the first week available, $35 is a little high. For example, John Carter 3D is $29.99 at Best Buy and then I used the Disney $5 off coupon. So, I got it for $24.99. I also picked up Journey to the Center of the Earth on sale at Best Buy this $19.99. Journey 2 in 3D is $27.99.

Usually all Disney 3D BDs are introduced around $29.99 with a $5 coupon online. Release week is the way to go on 3D titles until they become more mainstream. But calling them a "gimmick" is just not true. When ALL of the MAJOR Hollywood titles are getting released in 3D at the theater, I think it's safe to say it's no longer a "gimmick". If you don't like it, that's your opinion.
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post #3616 of 4344
6/8/12 at 9:25am
I've got my pt-ae7000u coming and it should be here by end of next week if I am lucky. I need to make a custom mount for it. Does anyone happen to have a template or the measurements for the mounting holes on the bottom of the projector? If so would you be able to share them? I do have an existing mount for a pt-ax100u here I could use if it shares the same hole pattern?

thanks,
Brendin
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post #3617 of 4344
6/8/12 at 1:48pm
I'm new here. Hello. I need your help guys because I'm going insane.

I got the projector last year in december. I sent it in the first time four months ago because of a high pitch noise coming from the ballast, frame rate drops in movies and horridious screen tearing in video games. Two weeks later they sent it back. They had updraded firewire and software and then said All ok.
So I had to send it back again with a even more detailed failure report, inclusive video clips. Then finally four months of wait I got it back, and guess what, the issues still occur. What they did was upgraded firewire, software and changed ballast and then said All ok. The new ballast did not stop the high pitch noise, only difference was that now the fans sound much louder, deeper and heavier. I can clearly hear both noises across a big room.

About the screen tearing. 3 out of 5 games is unplayable. I have tested something like 13 games to try figure out why this is happening. Whenever the frame rate is lower than normal it looks more or less like in this vid - http://youtu.be/bcDlO3zBqiE
I have used two PS3's to try with and same thing goes, but playing through the computer is perfectly fine low frame rate or not.

The bad hearing noise is a dead end, but with the screen tearing there's have to be a solution somehow... Panasonic won't further help so I'm all alone.

This is their answer,

Hi Lyrica

The only improvement was for the ballast high pitch noise.

The image experience the customer is reporting is normal.
Video processing is slower in these unit's hence latency is more.

If the customer needs lower latency then the PT-AH1000 would be better suited.

Many thanks
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post #3618 of 4344
6/8/12 at 3:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyrica View Post

I'm new here. Hello. I need your help guys because I'm going insane.
I got the projector last year in december. I sent it in the first time four months ago because of a high pitch noise coming from the ballast, frame rate drops in movies and horridious screen tearing in video games. Two weeks later they sent it back. They had updraded firewire and software and then said All ok.
So I had to send it back again with a even more detailed failure report, inclusive video clips. Then finally four months of wait I got it back, and guess what, the issues still occur. What they did was upgraded firewire, software and changed ballast and then said All ok. The new ballast did not stop the high pitch noise, only difference was that now the fans sound much louder, deeper and heavier. I can clearly hear both noises across a big room.
About the screen tearing. 3 out of 5 games is unplayable. I have tested something like 13 games to try figure out why this is happening. Whenever the frame rate is lower than normal it looks more or less like in this vid - http://youtu.be/bcDlO3zBqiE
I have used two PS3's to try with and same thing goes, but playing through the computer is perfectly fine low frame rate or not.
The bad hearing noise is a dead end, but with the screen tearing there's have to be a solution somehow... Panasonic won't further help so I'm all alone.
This is their answer,
Hi Lyrica
The only improvement was for the ballast high pitch noise.
The image experience the customer is reporting is normal.
Video processing is slower in these unit's hence latency is more.
If the customer needs lower latency then the PT-AH1000 would be better suited.
Many thanks

Have you tried running the projector in game mode? See this thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/1650#post_21231540
Edited by xnaron - 6/8/12 at 3:23pm
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post #3619 of 4344
6/8/12 at 4:37pm
Yeah, I have. That and frame creation was the first thing I changed, the most obvious ones. But nope.
Edited by Lyrica - 6/8/12 at 4:49pm
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post #3620 of 4344
6/8/12 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyrica View Post

Yeah, I have. That and frame creation was the first thing I changed, the most obvious ones. But nope.

Are you running it HDMI? If so try a component cable?
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post #3621 of 4344
6/8/12 at 7:22pm
I tried that now. Same amount of tearing.
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post #3622 of 4344
6/8/12 at 8:04pm
I'm not having these issue. Sounds like a bad unit.
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post #3623 of 4344
6/9/12 at 6:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by raehza View Post

Hey


I have my AE7000 for a few month and have surely gone past about 50 - 100 hours on it. The picture looks beautiful but one thing has been bugging me since day 1. When I press the "Lens" button on the remote, and I'm opted to change the zoom distance or adjust the focus, I can NEVR EVER get the word "Focus" to focus absolutely sharp. It's always a bit blurry. No matter what I do. Is this normal? I hate this feeling of not having my PJ work at its best. I don't know if it's a defect or normal.


I am using a Wilsonart Designer White screen.


It's an absolutely dark room. I tried Cinema 1-2, Game, everything. No change



Ray


I think a lot of what you are commenting on (computer small text, focus etc) is normal. These units have the Panny Smooth Screen technology to reduce pixel structure. Depending on how far away you are from the screen when trying to focus, you will see a little bit of "fuzziness" around text especially, because of this feature. I had it in my old AE4000U and it drove me nuts until I realized what was causing it. My picture is extremely well focused at the seating positions, but if you are trying to focus it perfectly by standing right next to the screen, you are tilting at windmills.
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post #3624 of 4344
6/9/12 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I own probably 90% of the 3D BDs available to own. (The other 10% I just don't own because I'm not interested in their subject matter.) If purchased during the first week available, $35 is a little high. For example, John Carter 3D is $29.99 at Best Buy and then I used the Disney $5 off coupon. So, I got it for $24.99. I also picked up Journey to the Center of the Earth on sale at Best Buy this $19.99. Journey 2 in 3D is $27.99.
Usually all Disney 3D BDs are introduced around $29.99 with a $5 coupon online. Release week is the way to go on 3D titles until they become more mainstream. But calling them a "gimmick" is just not true. When ALL of the MAJOR Hollywood titles are getting released in 3D at the theater, I think it's safe to say it's no longer a "gimmick". If you don't like it, that's your opinion.

Target has John Carter for $24.99 and then I used the $5 coupon and bought it for my husband. Great deals. 3D is now past what many would call the gimmick stage. I think its great that we have theses choices for our viewing. Its a great time to be a Home Theater Consumer!
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post #3625 of 4344
6/10/12 at 2:21am
double post
Edited by Lyrica - 6/10/12 at 2:44pm
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post #3626 of 4344
6/10/12 at 2:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I'm not having these issue. Sounds like a bad unit.
Yeah, maybe. But since there is no tearing playing through a computer I'm just not sure frown.gif
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post #3627 of 4344
6/10/12 at 1:52pm
anyone have a template for the bottom ceiling mount screws on the projector? I am making my own custom mount and I'd like to have it ready before the pj arrives.

thanks,
Brendin
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post #3628 of 4344
6/11/12 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnaron View Post

anyone have a template for the bottom ceiling mount screws on the projector? I am making my own custom mount and I'd like to have it ready before the pj arrives.
thanks,
Brendin

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae7000at5000/
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post #3629 of 4344
6/11/12 at 7:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae7000at5000/

Exactly what I was looking for! thank you!
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post #3630 of 4344
6/11/12 at 5:00pm
Hi all,
I got this projector back in September last year when they first came out. I've been having this problem for a while where after about an hour of viewing, the screen will go black and then blue for a few seconds. It will come back on it's own 5-10 seconds later and then works for another hour or so. I have tried different inputs, different HDMI cables and different video sources. I tried through my receiver and directly.
Any ideas what could cause this?
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