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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 124

post #3691 of 4428
I didn't think Black bars were a problem with high contrast deep black projectors such as this one?
post #3692 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgapt View Post

I have played with the idea of having 2 screens in my room. A fixed frame cinescope and a pulldown/motorized 16:9. Using a panasonic 7000 (that I haven't purchased yet). Is that totally insane. I am trying to avoid having blackbars or columns depending on what I am watching. I would appreciate any and all input.

People do it and it does work. but what about making masking panels for your cinescope screen, that is a cleaner better looking option in my opinion.
post #3693 of 4428
I compromised with my screen size to get the best of both worlds. My screen is not 16:9 nor is it 2.35:1. It is somewhere in between.

I ended up getting the Da-Lite Da-Snap High Powered screen. I did the custom size because I needed to maximize the screen height but had wall height limitations and the width for 2.35:1.

I went with 126" wide by 64" tall screen. So, when I'm watching 16:9 content, there are bars on the sides. When watching 2.35:1 or 2.40:1 content, I use Lens Control/Presets to have the content flush with the top of the screen so there is one big bar at the bottom of the screen.

I'm loving it so far and the High Powered screen is great for 3D. (Not as great for black levels, but I anticipated that.)
post #3694 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

People do it and it does work. but what about making masking panels for your cinescope screen, that is a cleaner better looking option in my opinion.

Agreed... Cheaper, cleaner and a more effective solution.
post #3695 of 4428
Two questions:
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 3D? I have tried all picture modes and D-Cinema seems to be the ONLY picture mode that has very little 3D crosstalk. All of the other modes have horrible crosstalk. Like, to the point of it being unwatchable. D-Cinema seems to get rid of it almost completely. So, should I set the picture mode to D-Cinema, turn on some 3D and perform the calibration and save it as a Picture Mode preset?
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 2D? I was using Cinema 2 and then I performed my own calibration using the Spears & Munsil disc. It rendered a really nice picture.

Here are my general settings:
  • Dynamic Iris: Off
  • Lamp Mode: Normal
  • Frame Creation: Off
  • Keystone: Off
  • High Altitude Mode: Off
  • Detail Clarity: +4 (I originally had this set to +7, but when using the Sharpness Test screen from Spears & Munsil, anything above +4 rendered some edge halos).
post #3696 of 4428
I've run all my components into my A/V Yamaha receiver with one HDMI cable to PJ with no problems. Looks and works great!
post #3697 of 4428
After ready about how Mercury bulbs "burn in" I wasn't as concerned with my flicker from the first 10 or so hours. Once the filament "burned in" I haven't seen flicker at all with over 140 hours on the bulb now. But I also agree that with a projector, there are things you can, and can't control. I love my Panny and enjoy it almost daily. I haven't watched 3D yet (not a big fan of it), but eventually will try it out and let everyone know.
post #3698 of 4428
I just installed mine yesterday. Got it up and running. Not too impressed with the out of the box performance. But, with what I have been following on this thread, I should see some improvement with some tweaking and usage over the next few weeks. When I get my room nice and organized I'll be sure to post up some pics.
post #3699 of 4428
Just ordered this PJ from audio general "B" stock for an incredible price. Is there a guide to recommended calibration settings (2d/3d) for a completely light controlled room? I have no calibration discs.
post #3700 of 4428
In the manual, it states the air filter should be cleaned every 100 hours.

Is this really necessary?
post #3701 of 4428
I'm about to flip my lid. How do I get the 16:9 and 2.35:1 image to play nicely when using the auto zoom/adjust on my CIH setup??

My PJ is well within the screen limit. When I set up the PJ for the 2.35:1 image then try to zoom out for the 16:9 to fit in my Scope screen the 16:9 image shifts higher then my screen. If I set the PJ up to display the 16:9 image within the screen when I zoom in for the 2.35:1 image, it shifts below the screen....

WTF am I missing?
Edited by popalock - 7/1/12 at 12:24am
post #3702 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I'm about to flip my lid. How do I get the 16:9 and 2.35:1 image to play nicely when using the auto zoom/adjust on my CIH setup??

My PJ is well within the screen limit. When I set up the PJ for the 2.35:1 image then try to zoom out for the 16:9 to fit in my Scope screen the 16:9 image shifts higher then my screen. If I set the PJ up to display the 16:9 image within the screen when I zoom in for the 2.35:1 image, it shifts below the screen....
WTF am I missing?

You have to do the 16:9 image first, center it using the manual joystick on the projector. Then zoom for the 2.35 and center it using electronic shift in the lense memory menu.
post #3703 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

You have to do the 16:9 image first, center it using the manual joystick on the projector. Then zoom for the 2.35 and center it using electronic shift in the lense memory menu.

Got it... I adjusted the V or H position and it worked fine.

Now I have to go back and look at what settings provide the best picture. I was getting some pretty horrible crosstalk, ghosting and artifacts over the weekend.

I've come to the conclusion that I have a pretty critical eye (minus color accuracy) when it comes to a good picture.
post #3704 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Got it... I adjusted the V or H position and it worked fine.
Now I have to go back and look at what settings provide the best picture. I was getting some pretty horrible crosstalk, ghosting and artifacts over the weekend.
I've come to the conclusion that I have a pretty critical eye (minus color accuracy) when it comes to a good picture.


Remember there is an option that makes the picture more smooth. I forgot the name right now but it has 4 modes. Off, mode 1 , 2 and 3. It's in your manual and under the color options and Advanced options.

In a nutshell Mode 1 is best for any type of movie. Mode 3 for animated. Mode 3 is the smoothest picture but causes crosstalk and ghosting. Mode 1 limits that a lot. Mode 0 turns it almost all off but the picture gets very laggy. Mode 1 is what I always use.


Ray
post #3705 of 4428
When you say option '0' (zero) makes it laggy.... what do you mean exactly? I dont own this PJ, but makes me wonder. Do you mean when set to zero, it makes the PJ look like a regular video at 24, (or whatever the source is...?) That's what I would expect it to do. or are you saying that when set to zero it makes it look bad, and NOT the way intended for the source material?

thanks!
post #3706 of 4428
Just bought AE7000 and 120" Elite fixed screen. It seems that the lens shift is very hard to use. The joystick is verynhard to move... Movements is not smooth

But PQ is awesome even out of the box:)
post #3707 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

When you say option '0' (zero) makes it laggy.... what do you mean exactly? I dont own this PJ, but makes me wonder. Do you mean when set to zero, it makes the PJ look like a regular video at 24, (or whatever the source is...?) That's what I would expect it to do. or are you saying that when set to zero it makes it look bad, and NOT the way intended for the source material?
thanks!

I believe he is referring to the Frame Creation feature. "Off" (or Mode 0) means that the projector displays 24p content in 24 fps. This is exactly like being in the theater and it works as intended. Mode 1 adds frame interpolation and makes any kind of camera movement much more smooth. This is NOT true to the original source, BUT Panasonic did a really nice job with their algorithms. To me, when using Mode 1, it doesn't give the film a "soap opera" look and I cannot see any visible artifacts due to the frame interpolation. Panny did a very nice job with it.
post #3708 of 4428
Thanks you very much, that clarifies it for me perfectly. I would like to see this mode 1 in action, I always disliked frame interpolation for movies (Sopa Opera effect yuck), but OK for sports. Mode 1, if barely noticeable/distracting, would be great to have imho.

Anyone in Cincinnati Area willing to demo this PJ for me? Im an active member of the forums with a good track record. no funny business here. Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I believe he is referring to the Frame Creation feature. "Off" (or Mode 0) means that the projector displays 24p content in 24 fps. This is exactly like being in the theater and it works as intended. Mode 1 adds frame interpolation and makes any kind of camera movement much more smooth. This is NOT true to the original source, BUT Panasonic did a really nice job with their algorithms. To me, when using Mode 1, it doesn't give the film a "soap opera" look and I cannot see any visible artifacts due to the frame interpolation. Panny did a very nice job with it.
post #3709 of 4428
Nobody? frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Two questions:
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 3D? I have tried all picture modes and D-Cinema seems to be the ONLY picture mode that has very little 3D crosstalk. All of the other modes have horrible crosstalk. Like, to the point of it being unwatchable. D-Cinema seems to get rid of it almost completely. So, should I set the picture mode to D-Cinema, turn on some 3D and perform the calibration and save it as a Picture Mode preset?
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 2D? I was using Cinema 2 and then I performed my own calibration using the Spears & Munsil disc. It rendered a really nice picture.
Here are my general settings:
  • Dynamic Iris: Off
  • Lamp Mode: Normal
  • Frame Creation: Off
  • Keystone: Off
  • High Altitude Mode: Off
  • Detail Clarity: +4 (I originally had this set to +7, but when using the Sharpness Test screen from Spears & Munsil, anything above +4 rendered some edge halos).
post #3710 of 4428
Can one of you owners please let me know which of the vents on the 7000 are inputs & outputs. I can't seem to find that info anywhere.
I'm thinking about buying this PJ but it's going into a custom ceiling box with limited venting, I'm hoping the front is an exhaust and the rest are intakes. The back one is likely the most important one to find out about since the box has a closed back.
post #3711 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnrgagne View Post

Can one of you owners please let me know which of the vents on the 7000 are inputs & outputs. I can't seem to find that info anywhere.
I'm thinking about buying this PJ but it's going into a custom ceiling box with limited venting, I'm hoping the front is an exhaust and the rest are intakes. The back one is likely the most important one to find out about since the box has a closed back.

Intakes are on the back and side. Exhaust is in tge front near the lens. These are spec sheets available online showing tge diagram, but I can't get to it because I'm on my cell.
post #3712 of 4428
Take a tissue and put it on each vent... you will see it suck in, or flap out...

edit: Do this MOMENTARILY of course. Don't leave a tissue on the vent. LOL.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnrgagne View Post

Can one of you owners please let me know which of the vents on the 7000 are inputs & outputs. I can't seem to find that info anywhere.
I'm thinking about buying this PJ but it's going into a custom ceiling box with limited venting, I'm hoping the front is an exhaust and the rest are intakes. The back one is likely the most important one to find out about since the box has a closed back.

Edited by gnolivos - 7/4/12 at 10:08pm
post #3713 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Two questions:
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 3D? I have tried all picture modes and D-Cinema seems to be the ONLY picture mode that has very little 3D crosstalk. All of the other modes have horrible crosstalk. Like, to the point of it being unwatchable. D-Cinema seems to get rid of it almost completely. So, should I set the picture mode to D-Cinema, turn on some 3D and perform the calibration and save it as a Picture Mode preset?
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 2D? I was using Cinema 2 and then I performed my own calibration using the Spears & Munsil disc. It rendered a really nice picture.
Here are my general settings:
  • Dynamic Iris: Off
  • Lamp Mode: Normal
  • Frame Creation: Off
  • Keystone: Off
  • High Altitude Mode: Off
  • Detail Clarity: +4 (I originally had this set to +7, but when using the Sharpness Test screen from Spears & Munsil, anything above +4 rendered some edge halos).
Not sure what you mean by general settings, but I use ECO lamp mode for 2D or 3D. I use Normal Picture mode for 2D and Dynamic for 3D.
For 2D -- Frame Creation 1, Detail Clarity 3, Dynamic iris ON.

The trick for no ghosting in 3D (for me anyway) is keeping Sharpness at -2, Detail Clarity at 0 or 1 at most, Frame Creation 3, Iris ON. The picture may be a bit softer but increasing sharpness or clarity will introduce ghosting. Anything less than Frame Creation of 3 looks too jerky on any fast horizontal motion. The soap opera effect does not happen with 3D. Difficult getting perfect color tones in Dynamic mode and non-blown out whites, but I need the brightness so it's worth it for the few 3D titles I play occasionally.

My only issue is the Dynamic Iris in 2D. I can see pumping sometimes on high contrast scenes which changes the tint. Very apparent on the credit roll. Very annoying but contrast suffers without it. Never had this problem with my AE2000U.
Edited by Carey P - 7/6/12 at 10:25am
post #3714 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Two questions:
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 3D? I have tried all picture modes and D-Cinema seems to be the ONLY picture mode that has very little 3D crosstalk. All of the other modes have horrible crosstalk. Like, to the point of it being unwatchable. D-Cinema seems to get rid of it almost completely. So, should I set the picture mode to D-Cinema, turn on some 3D and perform the calibration and save it as a Picture Mode preset?
  • What Picture Mode are you all using for 2D? I was using Cinema 2 and then I performed my own calibration using the Spears & Munsil disc. It rendered a really nice picture.
Here are my general settings:
  • Dynamic Iris: Off
  • Lamp Mode: Normal
  • Frame Creation: Off
  • Keystone: Off
  • High Altitude Mode: Off
  • Detail Clarity: +4 (I originally had this set to +7, but when using the Sharpness Test screen from Spears & Munsil, anything above +4 rendered some edge halos).

For 3D you need to switch the lamp to eco, iris off, detail clarity and sharpness no more than +2 and run the projector in 3D for a good half hour or more before watching, this will greatly reduce ghosting or atleast it does on mine. With those settings you can run the picture in Normal or Dynamic with glasses on normal and you should have minimal ghosting, with decent brightness. It won't be completely ghost free but it shouldn't be enough to detract from viewing with most content.
post #3715 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Intakes are on the back and side. Exhaust is in tge front near the lens. These are spec sheets available online showing tge diagram, but I can't get to it because I'm on my cell.
Much thanks, not sure what "tge" refers to besides the vent so i'll assume sides and rear are intake and the only exhaust is front which I can make work. I tried to find a schematic or manual online with no luck.
I found good deal a on an open box unit with a pair of glasses so I have to make sure before I buy it that it'll work in my set up.
post #3716 of 4428
Tge is me simply mispelling "the" because I primarily use my phone to respond to posts... Since AVS has converted to Tapatalk I don't even bother and just try to use my phone web browser. Both options are so much more inconvenient than the old AVS app... It's a lot easier to mis-spell words
post #3717 of 4428
Guys,

Any recommended calibration settings for our AE7000?

Thanks smile.gif
post #3718 of 4428
Finally did some gaming on mine and I think I definitely made the right choice.

Initially had problems and had to attach HDMI from PS3 directly to the PJ because of video processing in my receiver, but finally figured out how to turn off all video processing in the receiver.

Very very good for gaming, IMHO. This is 2D fighting games where frames count.
post #3719 of 4428
Hey guys,

Gonna pick up this projector...

Question about 3d glasses..

Im checking Amazon and their seems to be a ton of different types and sizes....

Since this projector has been out for a while, can you now give me the skinny on what I need as far as glasses.

Whats the best pair for around $50?
Will the 2012 glasses work?
Will the Avatar bundle glasses work?
post #3720 of 4428
If there is anyone in the Milwaukee area, I am selling my Panny 7000.

I have around 500 hours on it.

There are no issues with this projector and everthing works great.

I am moving so I need to sell it.

PM me if you are interested. No low ballers.
Edited by kthejoker20 - 7/7/12 at 6:29pm
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