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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 127

post #3781 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I have tried the Darbee on a three TV's, JVC RS45, Marantz VP12S4 and a Sony VW60. I have seen improvement in sharpness and contrast on all displays that I have tried it on. With the Panny being a three panel device, I think the sharpening would definitely be an improvement. Heck guys are saying it is an improvement when paired with the VW1000.

I'm getting that impression reading through the Darblet thread. I'm only through page 8, so I haven't had the chance to ask the question, but could this product be considered future proof (to a degree at least)? I ask because it seems to improve the picture on virtually all displays. Seems like a product like this should improve the image on future tech as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I know the reviews have been good for that thing, but I am not interested in it because it alters the directors' intent.

That's tricky... I would like to see the definition if "directors' intent." I could see the arguement against enhancements such as motion interpolation "soap opera", but enhanced detail and contrast would seem to me like a director would intend to convey this through their filming...

Just my opinion...
post #3782 of 4428
Has anyone received their two free 3D glasses from Panasonic yet? How long did it take from the time you sent in your claim form? Thanks.
post #3783 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I know the reviews have been good for that thing, but I am not interested in it because it alters the directors' intent.

Since when does increased sharpness and contrast alter the directors intent? Taking an LCD or LCOS projector and giving it sharpness closer to a DLP is altering the directors intent.?
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post #3784 of 4428
I just received mine. It was about 5 weeks and came from FedEx.
post #3785 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgatsby View Post

I just received mine. It was about 5 weeks and came from FedEx.
Thanks. It's been almost five weeks since I sent in my claim form, so I suppose I should be getting mine anytime now.
post #3786 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Since when does increased sharpness and contrast alter the directors intent?

Since I like to use a calibration disc to set sharpness and contrast to reference levels, I don't need an external device perform alterations that make me "perceive" to get a better image.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Taking an LCD or LCOS projector and giving it sharpness closer to a DLP is altering the directors intent.?

Yes, if the director wanted more "sharpness" he/she would have created it that way on disc.

I know you're attempting the sell the thing, so you have a dog in the fight, but I DID check out the site and read the review before commenting and I STILL believe it alters the original image. How does it handle edge enhancement that is already encoded in the video stream? Let's take TDK BD for example. I'm certain that it makes the edge enhancement that much more apparent. Processing on top of processing is the LAST thing I would ever want to do.

If it takes an LCD or LCOS projector and renders an image closer to a DLP, what does it do for a DLP? Sure, the amount of adjustment can be increased/decreased to the desired amount, but that still doesn't change the fact that it makes changes to the video stream. Sometimes, directors don't want "sharpness". And it is impossible to set contrast outside of the display devices capabilities. If I was a director, especially a DP, I would be offended that people at home think they could make my image look better than I can with a device that costs less than $300.

I don't have a problem with other people liking it. To each their own. But let's call a spade a spade, it alters the image. Whether the alteration is good or bad is left to the viewer.
post #3787 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Since I like to use a calibration disc to set sharpness and contrast to reference levels, I don't need an external device perform alterations that make me "perceive" to get a better image.
Yes, if the director wanted more "sharpness" he/she would have created it that way on disc.
I know you're attempting the sell the thing, so you have a dog in the fight, but I DID check out the site and read the review before commenting and I STILL believe it alters the original image. How does it handle edge enhancement that is already encoded in the video stream? Let's take TDK BD for example. I'm certain that it makes the edge enhancement that much more apparent. Processing on top of processing is the LAST thing I would ever want to do.
If it takes an LCD or LCOS projector and renders an image closer to a DLP, what does it do for a DLP? Sure, the amount of adjustment can be increased/decreased to the desired amount, but that still doesn't change the fact that it makes changes to the video stream. Sometimes, directors don't want "sharpness". And it is impossible to set contrast outside of the display devices capabilities. If I was a director, especially a DP, I would be offended that people at home think they could make my image look better than I can with a device that costs less than $300.
I don't have a problem with other people liking it. To each their own. But let's call a spade a spade, it alters the image. Whether the alteration is good or bad is left to the viewer.

To each his own... If you grilled me a steak I'd still probably use A1. Hope that wouldn't offend you...
post #3788 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I have tried the Darbee on a three TV's, JVC RS45, Marantz VP12S4 and a Sony VW60. I have seen improvement in sharpness and contrast on all displays that I have tried it on. With the Panny being a three panel device, I think the sharpening would definitely be an improvement. Heck guys are saying it is an improvement when paired with the VW1000.

Does Darbee support 3D video? They don't state explicitly, but according to Darbee's user manual, it would seem it handles only 2D?
post #3789 of 4428
it seems like it passes through 3D video but it doesn't mention specifically about processing 3D video.
post #3790 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

To each his own... If you grilled me a steak I'd still probably use A1. Hope that wouldn't offend you...

Only if I were the cow.
post #3791 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pterodactyl View Post

Does Darbee support 3D video? They don't state explicitly, but according to Darbee's user manual, it would seem it handles only 2D?

The review stated that it would support 3D.
post #3792 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I am glad you said this, because, while I was reading your review, I learned that my viewing habits and priorities are 100% the opposite of yours (which is perfectly fine), but it means that I would review the projectors using totally different methods. For example, I am a huge 3D fan and my 7000U is mounted differently. I don't hear any iris changes, I don't put the lamp in eco mode, I start with D-Cinema mode and calibrate using the Spears & Munsil disc after that. I would give the 7000U an A for 2D and a B- for 3D.
I love the picture quality for 2D and I can't stand the crosstalk in 3D. It almost renders the 3D unwatchable. All of the suggestions on this forum for minimizing crosstalk REALLY reduce the picture quality in other ways. Who wants to watch a blurry picture quality with the bulb in eco mode and the iris adjusting the brightness? And even that doesn't completely get rid of the crosstalk. It's difficult to pay attention to the story line because the ghosted images. Yuck.
The lens memory is great, but a bummer that it doesn't work while in 3D mode. I have to stop the movie, let the projector go back into 2D, switch the aspect ratio and then restart the movie. Often times, these movies require you to sit through FBI warnings, etc. so it's a real pain.
Finally the 7000U allows you to crop the top and the bottom of the image, but it's pointless because it still projects light where it should be black bars. So, since I have a high gain screen, it's more like gray.
The folks that complain about the lens joystick have a legitimate complaint, but it really only needs to be set once and then you never have to touch it again, so it's a minor issue.
I will be glad to share my settings after I have a chance to sit down and go through the entire manual with content on the screen. I want to make sure I know what I'm talking about before I share my settings so I don't have to re-share once I get them to my liking.

Hi

In regards to the 3D mode and switching ratios. You don't have to stop the movie. Go in your 3D options and set the movie to 2D, switch ratios, and flip the movie back to 3D. Much quicker and stopping the movie and having it relaod via the BluRay player smile.gif






I have a question of my own though.


I have 360 hours on mine. I love it and all, but I'd like it brighter. Not as in increasing the brightness in the color screen, but just more light in the image. I watched a few Harry Potter movies and the movie has many dark scenes. Some scenes are just so dark that any bit of ambient light makes it not so enjoyable anymore to watch.

I have a 5x10 screen from Wilsonart. White Laminate. Throw distance at about 16 feet I believe.


So would Dynamic Mode give me the most lumen? I'm in Cinema 2 and Spears and Munsil adjusted.



Also, what is a desirable color temperature? http://www.projectorreviews.com/panasonic/pt-ae7000/calibration.php Shows vastly different temperatures in different modes.

Ray
post #3793 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by raehza View Post

Hi
In regards to the 3D mode and switching ratios. You don't have to stop the movie. Go in your 3D options and set the movie to 2D, switch ratios, and flip the movie back to 3D. Much quicker and stopping the movie and having it relaod via the BluRay player smile.gif

Awesomesauce! Thanks! I never thought of that before.
post #3794 of 4428
I just turned on the Panny 7000 for the first time and I am in awe. The picture is absolutely breathtaking right out of the box. I think I did well for my first PJ experience! That being said, I am having trouble with the lens memory feature of this pj:


for starters, I have a 2.35 (scope screen). Also, the lens of my PJ is within the parameters of the screen itself. I used the test screen pressing the "lens" botton on the Panasonic remote to successfully set up my 16:9 aspect ratio. I used the "zoom", "focus" and the lens shift lever to correctly set up 16.9 aspect ratio. After that was set up, I popped in a 2.35 movie and inevitably saw the letter box bars. I paused the film on a bright scene and pressed the "lens" button on the remote. I used the "zoom" and "focus" buttons to zoom the black bars off of my scope screen. However, to successfully do this, I had to use the lens shift lever to raise the picture vertically. Once 2.35 was set up, I saved it as my second aspect ratio in lens memory. The problem I have is whenever I switch back to 16:9, the image is raised too high. Basically, the lens memory function is not remembering the initial settings I made with the lens shift lever for 16:9. Is there some other way to set this up?
post #3795 of 4428
I'm having the exact same problem with the 7000, 4000 and the 3000. It used to be a lot easier just by playing the lens shift control but now since the 7000 is using that dreqded joystick, it's really PITA to do so. Therefore I set my projector to scope and when I'm watching 16:9 I set the function to S16:9. It's a lot simpler that way.
post #3796 of 4428
I swear this question comes up evey other page of this thead.

Set up the 16:9 image using the joy stick......then break it off and throw it away so you never tuch it again......

For setting up the 2.35 image you have to use the horizonal and vertical position setting in the lense memory screen when you set zoom and focus, then save it. DONT TUCH THE MANUAL LENSE SHIFT
post #3797 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

I swear this question comes up evey other page of this thead.
Set up the 16:9 image using the joy stick......then break it off and throw it away so you never tuch it again......
For setting up the 2.35 image you have to use the horizonal and vertical position setting in the lense memory screen when you set zoom and focus, then save it. DONT TUCH THE MANUAL LENSE SHIFT

Now that's funny.biggrin.gif
post #3798 of 4428
LOL, I didn't quite break the joystick but I did super glue the plastic cover on the PJ. problem solved and thanks for answering the question (again) tongue.gif
post #3799 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Awesomesauce! Thanks! I never thought of that before.


No problem! Glad I could help


Ray
post #3800 of 4428
Hi guys , just bought panny 7000u. I installed it on the ceiling mount and it's about 20ft away from the wall/screen ( not using a screen just throwing the image on the wall with special paint ) so any tweak advice I will appreciate it thanks.
post #3801 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

LOL, I didn't quite break the joystick but I did super glue the plastic cover on the PJ. problem solved and thanks for answering the question (again) tongue.gif

No problem, glad you got it figured out and working.
post #3802 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by puri1 View Post

Hi guys , just bought panny 7000u. I installed it on the ceiling mount and it's about 20ft away from the wall/screen ( not using a screen just throwing the image on the wall with special paint ) so any tweak advice I will appreciate it thanks.


there aren't any universally used recommendations in this thread yet (hopefully there will be soon). you can either purchase a calibration disc, such as the Disney WOW or use these calibration settings that were done by Art over at projector reviews here
post #3803 of 4428
Hello,

We are about to build a home with a dedicated 12x20 theater. Im looking at the PT-AE 7000 paired with a 133" 2.35 Black Diamond screen, Will this do? Is my screen size too large? I want a nice sharp, impressive picture. Should I drop down to a 119" screen? I just dont want the picture to suffer when zoomed up to fill the screen.

Thanks in advance for your help
post #3804 of 4428
Assuming you want to put the 133" on the 12ft wall, it won't fit. The most ideal for that wall is 96" 2.35:1

If you want to put 133" on the 20ft wall, it will fit but you will suffer with image softness on the edges. 119" is the absolutely maximum you can go.
post #3805 of 4428
Why wouldn't a 133" screen fit? it would have 12" or so on either side (122.5" wide). I could always widen the room if needed. what would be the min. seating from a 133" or 119" Dia. 2.35 screen to have a nice sharp picture with this projector?

thanks
post #3806 of 4428
Don't forget the frame that will take another 6" total on both sides.

Also you want at least 3ft away from any side wall and ceiling to lessen any reflection from reflecting back to the screen that will washout the projected image.

On my 96" screen I sit 9ft away which is slightly closer than THX recommendation. I chose 96" because that's the point where I can clearly see the difference between 760p and 1080p.

Just check out acebydavidsusilo.webs.com for the full specs of my HT.
post #3807 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberlaz View Post

That isn't so bad.
How much did it cost you to ship it if you don't mind me asking? I am guessing like $50 to get it there UPS ground.

I got my 7000 back earlier this week. The turnaround was pretty quick. I shipped it on Monday and got it back Tuesday the following week. I shipped it UPS ground for about $80 which took about 3 days to get to the service facility.

They replaced the ballast, bulb and updated the firmware. No cost to me other than the shipping of $80 to the repair facility.

I have used it about 10 hours so far an no image flicker. The focus seems to be sharper too. I could never get it to focus just right before I had it serviced but now I can tune it right in. Maybe the firmware upgrade fixed that? Or whatever the flicker problem was with the bulb/ballast caused the focus to drift but I think that is a long shot...
post #3808 of 4428
David I just painted my room and it looks like yours... Red Theater is the color from Sherwin Williams
post #3809 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by MYHOMETHEATER View Post

Hello,
We are about to build a home with a dedicated 12x20 theater. Im looking at the PT-AE 7000 paired with a 133" 2.35 Black Diamond screen, Will this do? Is my screen size too large? I want a nice sharp, impressive picture. Should I drop down to a 119" screen? I just dont want the picture to suffer when zoomed up to fill the screen.
Thanks in advance for your help

Just a suggestion.....make the room more square. I have a 16' x 20' (screen on the short side), and could use a bit more width but, since I sit at 13', don't need the depth. (142" Carada 16 x 9 w/Panny AE2000 - soon to be upgraded).
post #3810 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by raehza View Post

Hi
In regards to the 3D mode and switching ratios. You don't have to stop the movie. Go in your 3D options and set the movie to 2D, switch ratios, and flip the movie back to 3D. Much quicker and stopping the movie and having it relaod via the BluRay player smile.gif


Could anyone elaborate on how to set the movie to 2D from the 3D options? Is this menu on the Panny or the 3D blu-ray itself? I looked for it on the Panny but having trouble finding it. Thanks.
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