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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 131

post #3901 of 4428
With Pan AE7000 PJ, can i change aspect ratio (say to full screen) irrespective of the sources (BluRay/DVD/PC/Cable receiver etc) as long as my PJ is connected via HDMI to good reputable receiver. I am running to the below issue with EPSON 5010 and looking for answers How it works in Panasonic before i decide whether to return Epson and go with AE 7000 PJ.

Have a question with Epson 5010 (recently bought a week ago) related to changing Aspect ratio. I read from the manual with HDMI connection, the aspect ratio cannot be changed manually and PJ selects it automatically. With my limited testing so far, i see it was set to "Normal" mode. Here is my Q - Say i have a 16:9 ratio 100 inch screen/ Playing one of the latest Hollywood movie from my Blueray player (regular DVD or Bluray DVD) what should i be expecting here? Will i see a full image in my 100 inch screen or not? I see similar posts in this thread where people asking the same Q.(http://www.avsforum.com/t/1377321/official-epson-powerlite-home-cinema-5010-6010-thread/1020#post_21655309) It sounds silly to me aspect ratio cannot be changed when connected to HDMI. Same question i have for other sources like PC or cable receiver etc. Note i am not going to use 2:35.1 and i just need to understand with 16:9 screen whether i can view full screen possibly all sources (Bluray/PC/Cable etc).. With a normal HDTV i do not see this issue at all and i am surprised to see this with EPson. The final Q i have whether anyone knows Panasonic AE7000 has the same limitation with 16:9 screen..
post #3902 of 4428
I am looking at user manual of Pany 7000 PJ - . https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae7000at5000/manual/ae7000ENGLISH_U.pdf
Review page # 58 and 59 in the above PDF doc where it explains about changing aspect ratio for various sources like HDMI.

Question - Assume i have 100 inch 16:9 type screen and connect my Pany 7000 with HDMI / Play Cinemascope type movie (2.35:1) i know by default i will get black bars in top/bottom.
Can i go to Aspect setting (that manual is talking about as mentioned in the page 58 and 59) and expand the image to fit my screen (H-fit / full screen etc) I understand the image may be streched and lose some quality.
Real Q i have - Can i change it manually? Can someone answer this? I know Pany lens memory can be used for displaying 16:9 image in scope type screen. My scenario here is just reverse. I need to know whether i can change the aspect ratio with HDMI connection. I cannot do this in Epson 5010. This is whay i wm asking whether it is possible in Pany world.
post #3903 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvsub View Post

I am looking at user manual of Pany 7000 PJ - . https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae7000at5000/manual/ae7000ENGLISH_U.pdf
Review page # 58 and 59 in the above PDF doc where it explains about changing aspect ratio for various sources like HDMI.
Question - Assume i have 100 inch 16:9 type screen and connect my Pany 7000 with HDMI / Play Cinemascope type movie (2.35:1) i know by default i will get black bars in top/bottom.
Can i go to Aspect setting (that manual is talking about as mentioned in the page 58 and 59) and expand the image to fit my screen (H-fit / full screen etc) I understand the image may be streched and lose some quality.
Real Q i have - Can i change it manually? Can someone answer this? I know Pany lens memory can be used for displaying 16:9 image in scope type screen. My scenario here is just reverse. I need to know whether i can change the aspect ratio with HDMI connection. I cannot do this in Epson 5010. This is whay i wm asking whether it is possible in Pany world.


Simple answer, yes. The Panny can be changed manually or automatically according to the aspect ratio of the movie that you are watching. For instance, if you have a 16:9 movie on a 16:9 screen, the image will fill the screen. The only problem is that if you zoom a 235 image on a 16:9 screen, a large portion of the picture will be missing from the left and right sides, however it can be done if that's what you like. If you want a 235 image to accurately fill the whole screen, you would either have to mask the top and bottom of your existing 16:9 screen or buy a 235 width screen.
post #3904 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by kthejoker20 View Post

Up. Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left Right, B, A, select, start.



It's a damn shame that I still remember this too. lol
post #3905 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

Simple answer, yes. The Panny can be changed manually or automatically according to the aspect ratio of the movie that you are watching. For instance, if you have a 16:9 movie on a 16:9 screen, the image will fill the screen. The only problem is that if you zoom a 235 image on a 16:9 screen, a large portion of the picture will be missing from the left and right sides, however it can be done if that's what you like. If you want a 235 image to accurately fill the whole screen, you would either have to mask the top and bottom of your existing 16:9 screen or buy a 235 width screen.

I am assuming 4:3 format can also stretched. RIght? What ever you are stating above, i am assuming the it can be done when PJ is connected via HDMI. Correct? Epson does not allow you to do this when connected via HDMI.
post #3906 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

That is not the rule of home theatre, it's the law of physics. You said it yourself. You're using velvet wall (absorbs light reflections) and high gain screen (very low angle of reflection). Those two things allow you to have the screen next to the wall without any problem. You don't need to talk down to me. I've been designing home theatres for almost 20 years.

You had stated how big the screen should be based ONLY on the size of the room. Why do I get accused of talking down to you, because my room is set up for a larger screen?
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

Once again you stated the obvious like your velvet and high-gain statement. PS3 glasses is "better" than the Panny. If you set the Panny Glasses to "darker" (the darkness is very similar to PS3 glasses in "normal")they both will yield a very similar results. The darkening of the overall brightness of the glasses hides the cross-talk. Once again it's the law of physics, not one being better than the other.

Because of my "batcave" room plus high gain screen, shouldn't I see crosstalk with the PS3 glasses, as well? The picture is very bright, even in 3D.

Since what I wrote was the truth, I don't appreciate your condescending, and confrontational, replies. I hope you use more tact with your customers.

Art
post #3907 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by adpayne View Post

You had stated how big the screen should be based ONLY on the size of the room. Why do I get accused of talking down to you, because my room is set up for a larger screen?
Because of my "batcave" room plus high gain screen, shouldn't I see crosstalk with the PS3 glasses, as well? The picture is very bright, even in 3D.
Since what I wrote was the truth, I don't appreciate your condescending, and confrontational, replies. I hope you use more tact with your customers.
Art


*eating popcorn, watching...* biggrin.gif
post #3908 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

The other hidden menu code also works on the PT-AT5000. Shows some of the same menu's but another status display, a Full Fan on/off mode etc. Nice to know because the status displays shows the amount of lamp resets.

For those that want proof that crosstalk has much to do with lamp cooling, try the hidden menu's Full Fan On mode. The Fan will be at full speed thus cooling @ max no matter the lamp setting in ECO or Normal or even High Altitude. Just a thought because I still need to try it myself..
post #3909 of 4428
Guys, can you believe my bulb started to flicker at 137 hrs, stopped after 50 hours and now started again at 687 hours, only much worse? Now even the colors are affected and I can't calibrate it anymore? It's as if the bulb is about to die! At 687 hrs!! Any o' yous know whether or not the most recent bulb batches for sale are OK? I plan to buy a new one. I really lucked out on my 7000 -- loved the image but this bulb was a real killjoy.
Thanks for your feedback.
Helcio
post #3910 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by helcio.carvalho View Post

Guys, can you believe my bulb started to flicker at 137 hrs, stopped after 50 hours and now started again at 687 hours, only much worse?
Helcio, I do not know if this is your problem but my previous Panasonic projector started to flicker at about 150 hours or so. The cure was to run the lamp in "normal" mode for a few hours, after which you could return to "eco" mode.

Apparently operating in "eco" mode caused the electric arc within the lamp to deteriorate specific areas of its electrodes. Returning to "normal" mode would "move" the area that the arc would contact to a different spot on the electrodes and equalize wear. At least that is what I imagined happening.

I don't know if the PT-AE7000 is susceptible to this phenomenon but the above technique solved my problem. If you have been running in "eco" mode try changing it to "normal". If it goes away leave it in "normal" for a while.
post #3911 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6sj7gt View Post

Helcio, I do not know if this is your problem but my previous Panasonic projector started to flicker at about 150 hours or so. The cure was to run the lamp in "normal" mode for a few hours, after which you could return to "eco" mode.
Apparently operating in "eco" mode caused the electric arc within the lamp to deteriorate specific areas of its electrodes. Returning to "normal" mode would "move" the area that the arc would contact to a different spot on the electrodes and equalize wear. At least that is what I imagined happening.
I don't know if the PT-AE7000 is susceptible to this phenomenon but the above technique solved my problem. If you have been running in "eco" mode try changing it to "normal". If it goes away leave it in "normal" for a while.

Thanks a whole lot for your reply, but I did try to run it in both modes, to no avail. As a matter of fact, I spent a good 400 hrs in Eco as the flicked would start in Normal. But you can't watch 3D in Eco so I recently took the chance and changed to Normal -- that's when the blasted flicker started. I returned to Eco, no good. Went back to Normal, no good. As I said, now even the colors are weird, as if the lamp was bumming out. Real strange. I bought a new bulb (should be delivered next week). I just hope and pray I didn't get a bad lamp again.
Best --
Helcio
post #3912 of 4428
It's not the bulb, it's the projector. Yours needs to be sent on for service. That's what I did and my problems went away.

What is your build date?
post #3913 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by helcio.carvalho View Post

I bought a new bulb (should be delivered next week). I just hope and pray I didn't get a bad lamp again.
Best --
Helcio

Why buy a new bulb? It should be under warranty..
post #3914 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

It's not the bulb, it's the projector. Yours needs to be sent on for service. That's what I did and my problems went away.
What is your build date?

I think it's more likely to be the bulb, as the flicker disappeared for a good 400 hrs. Or is it?!?!? Well, the new lamp is about to arrive. If the problem shows up again, then I'll definitely send the PJ for service. Build date Nov 2011.
post #3915 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

Why buy a new bulb? It should be under warranty..

I very much doubt it's under warranty. Warranty for bulbs is 3 months. Mine is almost a year old...
post #3916 of 4428
PANASONIC PT-AE7000U CIH SETUP HELP.

I received my AE7000U yesterday, fired it up and the 16:9 setup worked great. My problem is that I am trying to do 2.35:1 CIH setup. When I use the ZOOM option, the screen fills up but sliding towards lower right of the screen. When I adjust the 2.35:1 correctly, save it; then go back to 16:9; it has moved towards top left.

If anyone has done this please assist with a detailed instruction how you made it work. I've tried all the V-POSITION, H-POSITION,V-AREA POSITION, H-AREA.
Bottom line, I think I'm confused. I have an anamorphic lens that I can even use if necessary, but I read that I would not need that with this projector.

HELP !!!!

Thanks
post #3917 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

PANASONIC PT-AE7000U CIH SETUP HELP.
I received my AE7000U yesterday, fired it up and the 16:9 setup worked great. My problem is that I am trying to do 2.35:1 CIH setup. When I use the ZOOM option, the screen fills up but sliding towards lower right of the screen. When I adjust the 2.35:1 correctly, save it; then go back to 16:9; it has moved towards top left.
If anyone has done this please assist with a detailed instruction how you made it work. I've tried all the V-POSITION, H-POSITION,V-AREA POSITION, H-AREA.
Bottom line, I think I'm confused. I have an anamorphic lens that I can even use if necessary, but I read that I would not need that with this projector.
HELP !!!!
Thanks

Celina TX! Bobcat football!!! Man you guys whooped our a$$ back in the day.

So, if you have an A-Lens why did you get the Panny? A lot of Panny owners (myself included) didn't want to go through the fuss of setting up (and spending money on) an A-Lens, but if you already had one...

Anyway, to your question. Let's start with the obvious. Is your projector mounted to where the top of the 16:9 image is no lower than the center of your projector lens? If your projector is ceiling mounted and is higher than the image, then that's your problem.
post #3918 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Celina TX! Bobcat football!!! Man you guys whooped our a$$ back in the day.
So, if you have an A-Lens why did you get the Panny? A lot of Panny owners (myself included) didn't want to go through the fuss of setting up (and spending money on) an A-Lens, but if you already had one...
Anyway, to your question. Let's start with the obvious. Is your projector mounted to where the top of the 16:9 image is no lower than the center of your projector lens? If your projector is ceiling mounted and is higher than the image, then that's your problem.


Sorry about that popalock... those Bobcats are furious.
Yes, my projector is ceiling mounted and a little above the screen. i tilted the projector downwards a little, bit still no luck. i installed my HTB lens (since I already have it) and use the ASPECT to switch between V-FIt, and 4:3 that seems to be working.

What would you suggest I do if I still want to use the Panny without the lens? Seems like my options are limited at this point.

Thanks
post #3919 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

Sorry about that popalock... those Bobcats are furious.
Yes, my projector is ceiling mounted and a little above the screen. i tilted the projector downwards a little, bit still no luck. i installed my HTB lens (since I already have it) and use the ASPECT to switch between V-FIt, and 4:3 that seems to be working.
What would you suggest I do if I still want to use the Panny without the lens? Seems like my options are limited at this point.
Thanks

You wern't using the manual nobs on the projector to go from 16:9 to 2.35 were you?
post #3920 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

You wern't using the manual nobs on the projector to go from 16:9 to 2.35 were you?

Not at first. i set it up with 16:9 using an image from a DirecTV program and it centered properly, then perform a memory SAVE. Then, I put in a 2.35:1 movie, and push the ZOOM button to fill my 2.35:1 screen, that is when I noticed that the zoomed image starts deviating to the bottom right corner. By the time it fills the screen, i have a third of the image off the screen at the bottom and a black space at the top.

Then when i switch back to 16:9, the image has moved up. When i use the joystick to move it back down, and try to zoom, same result.

I have a 2.35:1 scope screen.

My ceiling setup look like the ceiling mount in this picture, with the middle of the lens at the top of my screen


Photobucket

HELP !!!!
Edited by nosdude - 8/21/12 at 3:20pm
post #3921 of 4428
Once you set the 16:9 image using the joystick you CAN NOT use the joy stick to move the 2.35 image. The joy stick is a manual adjustment and is not saved with the memeory. Once you zoom your 2.35 image you need to adjust the vertical and horizontal position in the lense menu to center the image, then save the 2.35 image.
post #3922 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Once you set the 16:9 image using the joystick you CAN NOT use the joy stick to move the 2.35 image. The joy stick is a manual adjustment and is not saved with the memeory. Once you zoom your 2.35 image you need to adjust the vertical and horizontal position in the lense menu to center the image, then save the 2.35 image.

I also tried it that way too. At some point, the image stopped moving after getting to a certian point.
post #3923 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

I also tried it that way too. At some point, the image stopped moving after getting to a certian point.

I think the problem lies from the fact that the middle of my lens lined up to the top of my screen? Since I'm ceiling mounted, i cannot move the projector, and the screen is also not movable.................... I'm i SOL then?
post #3924 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

PANASONIC PT-AE7000U CIH SETUP HELP.
I received my AE7000U yesterday, fired it up and the 16:9 setup worked great. My problem is that I am trying to do 2.35:1 CIH setup. When I use the ZOOM option, the screen fills up but sliding towards lower right of the screen. When I adjust the 2.35:1 correctly, save it; then go back to 16:9; it has moved towards top left.
If anyone has done this please assist with a detailed instruction how you made it work. I've tried all the V-POSITION, H-POSITION,V-AREA POSITION, H-AREA.
Bottom line, I think I'm confused. I have an anamorphic lens that I can even use if necessary, but I read that I would not need that with this projector.
HELP !!!!
Thanks



UPDATE

IT'S WORKING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys. What a TEAM.
post #3925 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by seaterman99 View Post

good discussions here guys.

intrigued to say the least at the prospect of a "new" projector on the horizon.
Found a "Russian" site that seems to be on the surface....ligit.
A little google translate and presto.
http://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://www.tos.by/proekt_panasonic/ae8000ea.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dptae8000u%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DTox%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26prmd%3Dimvns&sa=X&ei=5OYnUOOkKaOSiAKQ94GQCg&ved=0CDgQ7gEwAg
hopefully the link works.

Link worked fine for me. I'm hoping this isn't legit, as it suggests that the 3D transmitter would still be IR (instead of RF).
post #3926 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by NMJack View Post

Link worked fine for me. I'm hoping this isn't legit, as it suggests that the 3D transmitter would still be IR (instead of RF).

I have so much intermittent trouble with RF devices (my Logitech Harmony 900, for one thing, or my Viper 5901 car alarm for another), that I hope the next Panasonic stays IR. I've had zero trouble with the IR setup on the 7000 for 3D.
post #3927 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by adpayne View Post

You had stated how big the screen should be based ONLY on the size of the room. Why do I get accused of talking down to you, because my room is set up for a larger screen?
Because of my "batcave" room plus high gain screen, shouldn't I see crosstalk with the PS3 glasses, as well? The picture is very bright, even in 3D.
Since what I wrote was the truth, I don't appreciate your condescending, and confrontational, replies. I hope you use more tact with your customers.
Art

1. I never stated that the screen size should be based only on the size of the room
2. You condescendingly said that the rule is not written in stone, which in fact it IS written in stone because it's based on the law of physics
3. you are using high gain screen to compare PS3 glasses versus Panasonic glasses, the end result the PS3 glasses will still be darker than the Panasonic. Hence you see less crosstalk. Again, law of physics.

I don't need to be confrontational with any of my client because my clients are polite and never talked down to me. tongue.gifbiggrin.gif
post #3928 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

I have so much intermittent trouble with RF devices (my Logitech Harmony 900, for one thing, or my Viper 5901 car alarm for another), that I hope the next Panasonic stays IR. I've had zero trouble with the IR setup on the 7000 for 3D.

I haven't taken the time to compare peformance of IR vs RF 3D glasses, but was under the impression that Panasonic was moving towards RF for all of their 3D displays. If IR works great, then maybe my concerns are unfounded, provided there is still a reliable source for the IR based glasses. Maybe somebody can educate me.a bit more.... Thanks.
post #3929 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by NMJack View Post

... If IR works great, then maybe my concerns are unfounded, provided there is still a reliable source for the IR based glasses.

The Panasonic eyewear works well beyond its specified maximum distance (manual page 36). I am able to stand about as far back as possible from my screen, about 30 feet, with the projector mounted 14 feet from the screen and they still worked.

This was with the IR transmitter power set to "strong". I since reduced it to "medium" since "strong" causes IR interference with the projector's remote, causing the projector's remote control to become less responsive (though still usable). The manual explains this on page 67. I did not attempt to determine the IR eyewear's maximum range at "medium" power.

RF communication, if Panasonic chose to use it in lieu of IR, may come with its own performance limitations or interference problems, who knows. For now IR works fine. I hope this alleviates whatever concerns you may have.

I also read somewhere, maybe in this thread, that 3D eyewear for other devices (Sony Playstation perhaps???) works well and is less expensive than Panasonic's.
post #3930 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

... When i use the joystick to move it back down, and try to zoom, same result.

Glad you got everything sorted out. I just wanted to say for other's sake: once you set the image using the stinking joystick, you don't want to EVER, EVER mess with the joystick again. Ever. Set it, lock it, and forget about it.

What a PITA that stupid thing is. Panasonic should go back to the two knob idea of their previous models. It was beautiful, elegant, simple and I didn't appreciate it nearly enough.

What's worse is that the image position changes in the vertical dimension, ever so slightly, after everything is warmed up. Not more than 1/4" on my 120" screen, but it moves. Think you got it dialed in? Wait a half hour.
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