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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 141

post #4201 of 4428
"hotter" as in temperature hot or "hotter" as in brighter or higher contrast calibration settings & screen?
post #4202 of 4428
I could always turn down the brightness and reduce a little of the crosstalk, but I have done that before and it causes the picture to be too dark and makes the details difficult to see. Once the brightness is turned down, it is no longer within the calibration speciation.

So, I can watch the movie at the proper brightness with a TON of crosstalk OR really dark with a little crosstalk. I have to pick my poison.

Others here have verified that the crosstalk exists and attribute it to the fact that this is an LCD projector. I also have a Panasonic VT30 Plasma and the crosstalk only exist on pop-out 3D that comes real close to your face.
post #4203 of 4428
Equipment below.

I have had the PT-AE7000 since last fall, but have not posted. For most of the last year, this was the primary and sole display for the condo (and everyone in it), already on new bulb, over 3000 hours on projector. Was in West Los Angeles area very close to major construction (405 / Wilshire), dust was pretty high. This area is about 200" above sea level with very constant temperatures. Have since moved to north of LA (Santa Clarita), roughly 1100" above sea level, but recently the room gets cold at night, even when in use (low 60's). Dedicated room now, use has dropped significantly for more special use.

I have read quite a bit of the thread, but not all yet. I wanted to give a quick summary of issues I have seen as datapoints for others as I continue to read:

Major Issues
  • Flickering (uneven light, not white flashes) came around maybe 1000 hours on bulb. I was not surprised by this since I had not cleaned the filter for a bit too long. Was spoiled by previous projector's clean filter nag. Flicker is completely gone, cleaning filter is important. New bulb not flickering.
  • "Stutter", "Frame Dropping", "Frame Skipping" all seen on specific sources, more below.
  • Ghosting in 3D both seen and not, more info below
  • Total washout and lockup a couple times (on XBox360 while messing with Halo Anniversary in 3D mode and the 3D Balance menu).
  • Recent loss of color uniformity - upper corners are slight red, bottom corners are slight greeen. Since the move to 1100 feet. Came on suddenly maybe a month after, changed bulb and filter, didn't really help, maybe reduced the discoloration a little bit.

Stutter, Frame Dropping, Frame Skipping

Source dependent, definitely.
  • FIlmed content from ABC, both via Directv HR20-700 and Bluray (e.g. PanAm off DTV and Lost via Bluray)
  • Filmed content from Fox (Fringe) and SciFi (Stargate Universe) off AppleTV (3rd Gen, using 1080p), not sure if I saw same off DTV

Note that the AppleTV's floating album cover screen saver is 100% always totally smooth , which tells me it is not fundamentally the ATV. Other content of the DTV unit is smooth as well, never a problem. To me, this sort of exonerates the source devices, and really points to a producer - consumer rate mismatch issue of some sort with certain types of content, perhaps exacerbated by crystal rate drifts at different temps in the various equipment?

I have done all the various things like bypassing the processor, altering output resolutions of DTV box, changing cables (cheap to expensive with boosters), etc. I have recently (last night) dumped over to "Game" mode, and am trying that, so far no issues with test content I use for this of ATV and DTV.

I will continue to track and post findings. I have my old Benq W10000, should throw it up for comparison sake.

3D Ghosting / Crosstalk

Absolutely not at all any part of the signal chain to the projector what so ever. First disc we put in was "Brave" in 3D, and used the setup screens. There is an absolutely perfect image for use with this problem - it's the Buzz and Woody left eye / right eye polarity test. If you haven't seen it, you should. Basically, close one eye and all you will see is Buzz, and close the other and all you will see is Woody. No inspection of doubled vertical lines in a scene needed. Buzz and Woody are big and on a white background. Super easy to use.

On Buzz / Woody when Brave was in (and projector and room were 70-80F and running for hours), great picture, no ghosting during entire movie. Late last night, audio muted (2KW of amps not pumping out heat) and nighttime temp down to 40s, the room was in 60s, the projector was ghosting significantly. Extremely noteworthy is that only ghosted one direction. Ghost Woody, but no Ghost Buzz. BTW, ECO mode on projector, and Light / Normal / Dark glasses did not do anything to remove the ghost, just made it darker.

Using the waveform monitor (line mode only in 3D), it was easy to see that ghost was not in the incoming signal (as monitored).

Summary
Still happy with projector, just ordered a calibrator (Display 3 Pro) to do all that stuff too. Spent hours with DVE last night on this. Anybody already have a read as to the "Game" gamma?

As for "Game" mode, I am pretty sure this is the projector's bypass mode. Lots of engineering intuition on this, but looking for more proof.

Lastly, WTF is up with no FW updateability? Did anyone resolve this? Sadly, I am out of warranty due to the hours (post 2000), and was months ago. WTF.

Will post more as I learn more.
post #4204 of 4428
If anyone has pointers to fix 3D I'm open to suggestions.

I'm usually on Cinema 1, ECO and light mode with the 3rd gen Panasonic glasses.

I watched Avengers 3D the other day, the night time scenes were so dark I could barely see anything.

The ghosting was so bad I thought I was going cross eyed. I put the 2D disc in after about 20 minutes of torture.
post #4205 of 4428
For 3D I use Normal (for extra brightness) with medium glasses setting (vs light or dark)..on Panasonic 3d gen glasses. Plenty of light on 106 inch 1.3 gain screen with 12 ft throw. Good 3d movies (filmed in 3d, e.g. Avatar, Prometheus, Hugo) look awesome for me.
post #4206 of 4428
Quick question how does this projector compare to overall picture quality to say the vt50 plasma?
post #4207 of 4428
Blacks and detail are a million times better on the VT50. I have the VT30 and the ae7000u. 3D crosstalk is much less on the VT30 as well, but the screen is smaller (depending on your screen of course).

Ultimately, it comes down to screen size. If you want better Picture Quality, go with the plasma. If you want larger screen for gaming, movies and lens memory, go with the projector.
post #4208 of 4428
Thanks for the comment any more views on this
post #4209 of 4428
The consensus way back was to save your 3D movies for the summer time. This projector needs a warm environment to be ghost free.
post #4210 of 4428
So I was thinking of getting this projector but now I just dont know after reading these more recent post, so with that in mind and a budget of $2k usd for a projector what would some now recommend? Is this guy still worth it or is there something else in the pipeline that would be better.
post #4211 of 4428
For that price, nothing is better. If you're OK with higher pricing, get the AE8000U. It's advertised as 20% brighter but it's actually about 32% brighter than the 7000 (according to my meter), much better 3D performance and better iris.

As far as bulb flicker, it happens with all projectors. Even commercial Christie's 4K projector bulb experience the same thing, especially when these bulbs are running at less than 100% brightness
post #4212 of 4428
I'm interested in hearing more about the 3D improvement. Can you explain?
post #4213 of 4428
Hi all

I've had the AE7000 for about 3 months now, so thought I'd weigh in on our experience with it. Overall, we're extremely happy with it. We're using it in a dedicated theater room with a 16' throw to a black concrete wall with a white 10' wide screen painted on it. I cant' even imagine what it will look like when we get the screen installed.

Here are our thoughts:

1) We upgraded from an 8 year-old AE900 to this bad boy.... so, perhaps not a fair assessment, given that my iPhone screen would be a radical improvement on the AE900.

2) Picture in 2D is fantastic. We were totally blown away the first time we watched a Bluray and continue to be amazed by the incredibly picture quality and viewing experience. We primarily watch content from 3rd Gen AppleTV (in HD). Keep in mind we're watching this on a painted concrete wall.

3) We haven't watched a lot of content in 3D, but what we've seen has been incredible. Our first movie was NASA's Hubble documentary, followed by Avatar and Titanic. From the opening title screens (particularly the iMax one) till the credits, it was a spectacular experience. We're using the latest Panasonic 3D glasses. We've never had any crosstalk or anything but fantastic picture quality in 3D. Having said that, the theater room is generally quite warm ( we live in the tropics and it's too expensive to run air conditioners throughout the house all day), so the room stays around 90 degrees every day. Even when we run the aircon, it's still around 80 degrees... so maybe that validates the above point connecting warm ambient temps with lack of cross talk?

4) We have had technical issues. When we start the projector up, I get either a bright white light or a blue screen with vertical green stripes. The remote and all else is unresponsive - with the exception of the power button. I have to shut down the projector then wait for it to cool, then restart it. 2nd restart seems to work fine and we're all good. I bought this in the USA and live in Singapore, so my warranty is not valid here.... which totally bites, of course as we can't send in for warranty repairs without being charged (a lot).

5) I haven't done a proper set up nor calibrated the projector and would really like to hear from anyone on the forum on how to do this without hiring a $300 an hour tech to do it for us. Any suggestions?
post #4214 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Liebman View Post

I bought this in the USA and live in Singapore, so my warranty is not valid here.... which totally bites, of course as we can't send in for warranty repairs without being charged (a lot).

Sure about that? The Warranty should be worldwide Panasonic!

http://panasonic.net/support/general_faqs/warranty/warranty1.html
post #4215 of 4428
Oh... I was told by a friend of mine (who also purchased in the US) that it was only for the US.. I should have checked first!
post #4216 of 4428
Using this PJ for a 142" diagonal 2.35:1 Screen with Electric "Triggered" Black Velvet Curtains and Adjustable Bottom Black Velvet Mask Panel (Black Velvet Valance too)

I'm looking to get an optimal 16:9 / 2:35:1 Lens Memory Set-up, and I want to get it set up right on the first attempt.Once I get there, I can adjust my Velvet masking on every side to accommodate the image format /size. Setting up the Lens Memory correctly according to my "installation criteria" is my primary concern / need.

The screen is a painted expanse of skimmed / sanded Drywall. I outlined and painted more than enough area for 135" diagonal, and at my current Throw distance, at maximum Zoom I can achieve 142" Diagonal. Those referenced Diagonal numbers represent 2.35:1 formatting

My chief concerns / questions:

* Lens is approx 4" below Screen's top edge. Adequate?
* Lens is centered (...+/- a whisker...) on Screen. Degree of importance? Any lee way?
* Suggested Maximum size and still be able to accommodate effective Lens Memory set-up.


Much of the above was recently asked about by Member kimera http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/4170#post_22551757
....... but I didn't see a response.

dmoneyman2323's post.....
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/4170#post_22604288
......outlined the procedure, but seem to infer that the maximum amount of zoom cannot be employed (...in 16:9 or 2:35:1...or both?)

I left "fudge room" on all sides, but obviously I want the biggest 2.35:1 image possible without risking a smooth transition to 16:9 w/Curtain Masking

So I'm in need of experience or knowledge driven input. I have a Darby Doublet waiting in the wings, but this is something I need to get down and settled asap.

Please for now....thanks in advance. biggrin.gif
post #4217 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post


Do not use the H-POSITION or V-POSITION of the POSITION menu. Be sure to set these to 0. Instead use the LENS CONTROL menu. These will be saved in memory where the former will not.


To use a 2.35:1 screen to view both 2.35:1 and 16x9 at constant height the distance to your screen must be within 1.24 to 1.88 of the diagonal size of your scope screen. For example if you have a 120" screen then you must be between 12'5" and 18'10". Try to stay away from the extreme limits or you'll have no adjustment left. If you are outside the correct distance range you won't be able to attain both steps 1 and 2.


Step 1. Adjust while viewing 16x9 content so that the top and bottom fill the screen, Use the lens shift, zoom and focus for this. Keep H-AREA and V-AREA POSITION of the LENS CONTROL both 0. Save to memory. Call it "1".


Step 2. Adjust while viewing 2.35:1 content so that the left and right fill the screen. Again, use the lens shift, zoom and focus for this, however don't change the lens shift vertical position. The image may be too high or low but don't worry about that in this step. We will fix it in step 5. Save to another memory. Call it "2".


Step 3. Go back to viewing 16x9 content. Load the lens memory you saved in step 1. Look to be sure the top and bottom are still correct. If they are not, then you accidentally moved the lens shift vertically during stop 2. Fix it, but try not to move horizontally with the lens shift.


Step 4. Go back to 2.35:1 content. Load the lens memory you saved in step 2. Confirm that the image fills left and right correctly. Again, don't worry about the vertical position at this point. If the image is not filling left/right then adjust the lens shift until it is, but don't move vertically. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you don't need to move the lens shift.


Step 5. At this point the 16x9 should be correct and the 2.35:1 is correct except for vertical placement. So while viewing 2.35:1 and with lens memory 2 loaded go to the LENS CONTROL menu and adjust the V_AREA POSITION so the image is vertically correct. Save the lens memory to 2.


You are done. If you don't have enough vertical adjustment in step 5 then you need to move the projector vertically so it's not so far at the edge top/bottom edge. If you use a ceiling mount then this means dropping it down some. After doing this you'll have to go back to step 1 and readjust everything.


Hope this helps.

Thanks so much I found this quite useful biggrin.gif
post #4218 of 4428
I have just bought a PT-AT5000 and it is a big improvement on my old Sony. However I have a problem as briefly mentioned above. My picture keeps cutting out especially when first turned on. It seems especially bad on cartoons, possibly because the majority of the picture stays the same. It is also preceded sometimes by left to right bleeding. It also seems to be sensitive to temperature. When the house is hot the picture cuts out more often. I put the projector in Eco mode which was better than normal mode. I have also put it in high ceiling mode which increases the fan speed and helps. The projector is suspended from the ceiling at 2.55 mtrs (below the 2.7 mtrs max). This to me all indicates a thermal cut out problem although I am not sure about the bleed proble ( but this only really happens on cartoons). Anybody any ideas? There seems to be a mention of a service menus to adjust the fan speed, can anybody advise how to access this.
post #4219 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Using this PJ for a 142" diagonal 2.35:1 Screen with Electric "Triggered" Black Velvet Curtains and Adjustable Bottom Black Velvet Mask Panel (Black Velvet Valance too)
I'm looking to get an optimal 16:9 / 2:35:1 Lens Memory Set-up, and I want to get it set up right on the first attempt.Once I get there, I can adjust my Velvet masking on every side to accommodate the image format /size. Setting up the Lens Memory correctly according to my "installation criteria" is my primary concern / need.
The screen is a painted expanse of skimmed / sanded Drywall. I outlined and painted more than enough area for 135" diagonal, and at my current Throw distance, at maximum Zoom I can achieve 142" Diagonal. Those referenced Diagonal numbers represent 2.35:1 formatting
My chief concerns / questions:
* Lens is approx 4" below Screen's top edge. Adequate?
* Lens is centered (...+/- a whisker...) on Screen. Degree of importance? Any lee way?
* Suggested Maximum size and still be able to accommodate effective Lens Memory set-up.

Much of the above was recently asked about by Member kimera http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/4170#post_22551757
....... but I didn't see a response.
dmoneyman2323's post.....
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/4170#post_22604288
......outlined the procedure, but seem to infer that the maximum amount of zoom cannot be employed (...in 16:9 or 2:35:1...or both?)
I left "fudge room" on all sides, but obviously I want the biggest 2.35:1 image possible without risking a smooth transition to 16:9 w/Curtain Masking
So I'm in need of experience or knowledge driven input. I have a Darby Doublet waiting in the wings, but this is something I need to get down and settled asap.
Please for now....thanks in advance. biggrin.gif

*Cough*..... I know someone who built a kick azz screen for this projector with help from someone... just sayin....

Welcome to awsome HD Mississippiman
post #4220 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowferrari View Post

I have just bought a PT-AT5000 and it is a big improvement on my old Sony. However I have a problem as briefly mentioned above. My picture keeps cutting out especially when first turned on. It seems especially bad on cartoons, possibly because the majority of the picture stays the same. It is also preceded sometimes by left to right bleeding. It also seems to be sensitive to temperature. When the house is hot the picture cuts out more often. I put the projector in Eco mode which was better than normal mode. I have also put it in high ceiling mode which increases the fan speed and helps. The projector is suspended from the ceiling at 2.55 mtrs (below the 2.7 mtrs max). This to me all indicates a thermal cut out problem although I am not sure about the bleed proble ( but this only really happens on cartoons). Anybody any ideas? There seems to be a mention of a service menus to adjust the fan speed, can anybody advise how to access this.

Service menus can be found a few pages back however there is not much adjusting to do there.
How long are your HDMI cables?
Did you try a different source like:
Lower res picture or Component / VGA inputs, different HDMI cable??
post #4221 of 4428
Hi,

are the mounting holes (M4 size) in the same places as with PT-AE3000 / AE4000? I have a self-made ceiling mount (screw locations are in fixed positions based on AE3000 mounting points) and was wondering if I can use the same ceiling mount with AE7000.
post #4222 of 4428
Can anyone recommend a great screen for the AE7000? I have a dedicated theater room with full light control so presume that I only require a 1.0 gain and whilte background.. Is this correct?

I've been leaning towards the Elite Screens R120H1 EzFrame Fixed Wall Projection Screen (58.8 x 104.6") for my room, which has a 14' distance from seating to the wall. Heard that this was a great screen for this projector and light combo... any thoughts? It's just $510 at B&H Photo Video so seems like a good deal.

Also we primarily watch HD content from Apple TV.. 80% of the time TV shows. So I have been thinking 16:9. But movies would clearly look better on 2:35:1 ... does the Cinemascope make the 16:9 TV shows look like small letterboxed images ? If so, it wouldn't make sense to go with the 2:35:1 Cinema screen, but if this projector can zoom it out to make it look nice, we would prefer the wider screen for movies.

Any thougths from the netizens on this board would be much appreciated!

Eric
post #4223 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muikster View Post

Hi,
are the mounting holes (M4 size) in the same places as with PT-AE3000 / AE4000?

Here is the applicable drawing for the PT-AE7000:



There are no dimensions provided so the drawing is not very useful.

I no longer have the PT-AE3000U and its manual does not even have a drawing comparable to the above. As I recall the mounting holes are in similar locations so yours might work. However, Panasonic's options indicate two different ceiling mount models: ET-PKE2000/ET-PKE1000S for the 3000, and models ET-PKA110H (for high ceiling) ET-PKA110S (for low ceiling) for the 7000. If you research those mount models perhaps you can correlate their dimensions.
post #4224 of 4428
I remember that the holes are not in the same place when I changed the 3000 for the 7000.
post #4225 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

I remember that the holes are not in the same place when I changed the 3000 for the 7000.
I have now replaced my AE3000 with AE7000 and luckily only one hole is different, the one almost at the back of the projector.
post #4226 of 4428
RE: Can anyone recommend a great screen for the AE7000? I have a dedicated theater room with full light control so presume that I only require a 1.0 gain and whilte background.. Is this correct?

I bought this screen: http://www.elunevision.com/referencestudiotab.html

They have tab tension or motorized. I found them on par or better than higher priced reference screens. Also 4k ready as well.

Simply amazing. I can't recommend it more highly. Cost is also a huge plus.
post #4227 of 4428
Hi

Thanks for the advice... just checking out the site and the screens look fantastic. Where did you purchase it? I didn't see any where to purchase on their website.

Thanks again!
post #4228 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Liebman View Post

Hi
Thanks for the advice... just checking out the site and the screens look fantastic. Where did you purchase it? I didn't see any where to purchase on their website.
Thanks again!

I live in Ontario and purchased from these guys (great store by the way): http://eastporters.com/estore/cart.php?page=hometheater

They are also in Ontario but will ship to US. They also highly recommend the EluneVision Reference screens as you can see from their site. If you have any questions - call these guys - great customer service. Shipping was super fast.
post #4229 of 4428
He all. I plan on buying this projector in a month or so and I haven't seen much talk here about video games being played on this projector. I plan on using it for video games using my xbox and such but also 2D movies. We're not really into 3D too much yet but would like the ability to upgrade when I want. Can you guys tell me all the pros and cons of evidence gaming on the projector? Is the refresh rate good enough for first person shooters and such?
post #4230 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by cklinkbeil View Post

He all. I plan on buying this projector in a month or so and I haven't seen much talk here about video games being played on this projector. I plan on using it for video games using my xbox and such but also 2D movies. We're not really into 3D too much yet but would like the ability to upgrade when I want. Can you guys tell me all the pros and cons of evidence gaming on the projector? Is the refresh rate good enough for first person shooters and such?
I play FPS games occasionally and have no complaints.
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