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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 143

post #4261 of 4428
The manual states High Altitude mode will be required for your elevation (> 4593' ... "Failure to do so may shorten the life of the internal parts and result in malfunctions.")

As long as you are using it within its limitations, it should perform as expected. I surmise yours is defective.
post #4262 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowferrari View Post

I am using svideo and composite. Bit old fashioned but all my cables were burried in the wall a long time ago.
Hi Yellowferrari.
You could buy a wireless HDMI transmitter. I'd buyed one and it is working very good. No problems for now.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1372943/best-wireless-hdmi-device#post_21211336
post #4263 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6sj7gt View Post

The manual states High Altitude mode will be required for your elevation (> 4593' ... "Failure to do so may shorten the life of the internal parts and result in malfunctions.")

As long as you are using it within its limitations, it should perform as expected. I surmise yours is defective.


To clarify, these issues occurred without the HIGH ALTITUDE setting, which I only discovered today.

I will try this new setting and test further.

I really hope this isn't defective.. I've had it for 45 days and only now got to test it (we were building out our family room). The Amazon return period is 30 days..

I am hopeful.
post #4264 of 4428
Other unexplained stuff can happen when your Viera Link option is enabled. My new PT-AT6000 recently shut down when changing source on my Onkyo.

My Power LED was also flashing Orange at the time and this is what the owners manual states about a flashing orange power LED:

The Power Button is switched on again in the power off preparation mode. Preparing to project. Projecting starts after a brief pause.


This is probably not your case but try and make sure your Viera link is Off.
post #4265 of 4428
I tried this again last night with HIGH ALTITUDE option ON and the same thing happened after about 30 min of viewing (white screen of death, need to re-start everything).

I hadn't touched any sources at the time, it was just standard viewing, so I'm not sure what could have interfered with Viera Link. I can repeat this issue at will now.

These symptoms seem to occur only when playing a 3D Blu-ray disc. Other media appears to work without issue.
• About 30min to 1 hour in to a 3D Blu-ray, the projector screen will fill completely white (white screen of death)
○ The projector will not respond to remote commands (or if it does, I cannot tell because nothing appears on screen)
○ The power light will turn orange, then it will blink (perhaps in response to me hitting the remote power button? can't tell)
○ The projector will go in to standby mode after blinking then restart on its own and operate for another hour before doing the same thing


I spoke with Panasonic tech support and they stated this is not standard behavior and the unit may be defective. I am 20 days outside the return window from Amazon, so this is really disappointing since it looks like I will need to send it back to Panasonic. Anybody know what the turnaround time is like?

I kind of want to get a refund and just pick up the AE8000U now since the price keeps dropping :/
post #4266 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by elgordo1 View Post

I tried this again last night with HIGH ALTITUDE option ON and the same thing happened after about 30 min of viewing (white screen of death, need to re-start everything).

I hadn't touched any sources at the time, it was just standard viewing, so I'm not sure what could have interfered with Viera Link. I can repeat this issue at will now.

These symptoms seem to occur only when playing a 3D Blu-ray disc. Other media appears to work without issue.
• About 30min to 1 hour in to a 3D Blu-ray, the projector screen will fill completely white (white screen of death)
○ The projector will not respond to remote commands (or if it does, I cannot tell because nothing appears on screen)
○ The power light will turn orange, then it will blink (perhaps in response to me hitting the remote power button? can't tell)
○ The projector will go in to standby mode after blinking then restart on its own and operate for another hour before doing the same thing


I spoke with Panasonic tech support and they stated this is not standard behavior and the unit may be defective. I am 20 days outside the return window from Amazon, so this is really disappointing since it looks like I will need to send it back to Panasonic. Anybody know what the turnaround time is like?

I kind of want to get a refund and just pick up the AE8000U now since the price keeps dropping :/


It is weird to me that there have been zero other reports of this behavior.

I am going to conduct some experiments later using different sources than my Onkyo TX-NR616 A/V receiver.

.....

Current test in progress: HDMI connection directly from Panasonic BD player to projector (no receiver pass through). Viera Link settings OFF

Playing Hubble 3D Blu-ray.. we'll see how long this plays before getting WSOD (white screen of death)

......

16 minutes in to Hubble 3D and the projector shows white screen. Power button remains green.

I unplugged and re-plugged the HDMI from the source, and it simply turns back to white screen.

.......

Just tried again using a PS3 as the blu-ray player. Same thing happened. white screen

.......

One final test to see if it is the HDMI cable causing the issue. Changing the HDMI cable and running test again.

......

OK - All 3D Blu-ray tests result in a white screen of death (WSOD) from 10 minutes to 1 hour in to viewing. I need to power down the projector and start it up again.

Meanwhile, I've had normal cable TV (non-3D) playing on the projector for about 2 hours with zero issues.

Clearly, this is a 3D issue..

Of course the box has gone missing so Amazon is being wishy-washy on taking it back. I really don't want to send this back to Panasonic and wait ages for a solution :/
Edited by elgordo1 - 2/23/13 at 9:58pm
post #4267 of 4428
I'm thinking of buying this instead of the Epson 5020. I currently have an Optoma HD67 with NVidia 3D vision that I'll be replacing with this.
I'm worried about the ghosting on this. Can you guys please advise?
post #4268 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by srinivas1015 View Post

I'm thinking of buying this instead of the Epson 5020. I currently have an Optoma HD67 with NVidia 3D vision that I'll be replacing with this.
I'm worried about the ghosting on this. Can you guys please advise?

Sure. I can advise. I own this projector and it has so much ghosting that I can't wait to replace it with a better projector. I have a difficult time watching 3D on this projector. I love the 2D picture quality, but 3D fails miserably. Not sure if the 8000 is any better. Nobody will compare the 7000 to the 8000 and I am not taking Panasonic so word for it.
post #4269 of 4428
I never noticed any signficant ghosting issues.. of course, I did have to send mine back because I would get "white screen of death" every 10-30 minutes with any type of 3D content.

What is the best 3D projector in this price range? Is it the Epson 5020?
post #4270 of 4428
I compared my new 8000 to the 7000 in the 8000 thread and although I didn't mind the ghosting on the 7000, I don't see it at all anymore on the 8000.
All my sources are .mkv bluray rips @1080p Side by Side or Top And Bottom. About 10GB per movie and there is simply much difference between rips but also between Real and Fake 3D. I got about 20 titles that simply don't ghost on the 8000 and were very acceptable on the 7000. In my case BTW a 5000 and 6000 European model.

I don't see difference in 2D between the two but much difference in 3D. Much brighter. I chnaged projectors because of features though. I can now control the 3D mode through RS232, zoom while in 3D and got rid of the Processing notification while gaining much 3D brightness and unnoticably almost doubled the contrast. Very happy with the switch however the 7000 already did the job fine!
post #4271 of 4428
Thanks Bumper. It seems as though the 7000 ghosting didn't bother you that much. Since it's really bothersome to me, I wonder if I will notice much ghosting with the 8000. The only way to know that is if I demo it someplace (which likely isn't going to happen).
post #4272 of 4428
I haven't posted here in a while. I though I'd put in my input on 3D and the 7000.

Several months back WilliamG and I had done extensive testing on the 3D viewing of the PT-AE7000U projector.

He had ghosting and I had zero on the same movie: Transformers Dark Side Of The Moon 3D . So we exchanged settings and were able to swap results. I could finally force ghosting, and he could finally view with zero ghosting. We were able to prove that the internal temperature of the LCD panels drastically affected ghosting. This makes sense because the LCD response time is directly related to it's temperature. Fast panel response is crucial for 3D viewing or you will see image bleed over (ghosting) meant for the other eye. The temperature of the panels can be affected by some of the settings. For example if you turn HIGH ALTITUDE MODE on, then the fan will run all the time in attempt to make sure the projector is properly cooled. The only problem with that is it will force the temperature of the panels down too much for proper 3D playback. In a similar fashion if you set the LAMP POWER to NORMAL the fan will also run more, again ironically driving the temperature of the panels down too much. These 2 settings are the biggest culprits. This is a design flaw in the 7000 as settings shouldn't affect 3D viewing.

To make matters more difficult for the user to troubleshoot the ghosting problem, the temperature of the panels don't change instantly when you change these settings. It can take minutes for the temperature to change after a settings change. So you might change a setting, and see no difference right away so think that wasn't the solution and hence draw the wrong conclusion. Therefor if you starting viewing before the projector warms up for at least a few minutes then you could have some issues at the start of the movie. Generally this shouldn't be a problem because you probably already have the projector on for several minutes before you actually started the 3D movie.

I know nothing about the 8000 but I would hope they fixed the panel temperature regulation so the settings don't affect 3D. I don't have the 8000 and have read noting about it so I don't know. If you're looking to buy a 3D projector and don't have the 7000, I would think it makes more sense seriously consider the 8000 instead - just read up on it first!

For the 7000, the results of our test determined the best settings for 3D viewing are:

LAMP POWER = ECO
HIGH ALTITUDE MODE = OFF
PICTURE MODE = NORMAL
DETAIL CLARITY = 0
Glasses = NORMAL

Also some people found their cross talk issue was because they used an off brand set of 3D glasses that turned out not to be compatible with this projector. When they got the 3rd gen panny glasses and used these settings their cross talk vanished.

When I watch a 3D movie with these settings there is zero cross talk. If you use these settings and still have cross talk, then I'm at a loss as to why and what else you could do to fix it.
Edited by wgf_bean - 3/2/13 at 6:38pm
post #4273 of 4428
I just bought this projector. Don't have my screen yet(120" AT Jamestown), and just displayed it on a wall b/c I'm impatient.

Can't wait. Got all my speakers, receiver, proj, mount, everything but the screen. Can't wait to get the home theater all together.
post #4274 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post


LAMP POWER = ECO
HIGH ALTITUDE MODE = OFF
PICTURE MODE = NORMAL
DETAIL CLARITY = 0
Glasses = NORMAL

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I will try these settings, but it seems to me that there are too many compromises being made using these settings. It seems to me that one could either have dark (eco) soft (detail clarity 0) 3D with no cross talk OR bright clear picture quality with tons of crosstalk. I will report my findings after I try your settings and recalibrate using DVE, Spears & Munsil and Disney WOW.
post #4275 of 4428
i find my has a high pitch noise, its already been back once under warrenty but the nooise persits. It feels like tinitus sometimes when watching films. does anyone else have the same issue? is it fixable?
post #4276 of 4428
Hey WGF
Would you mind posting up your 2d settings for me or at least the ones that are not default, I am a new owner still tweaking my pj, and would love to compare your settings with mine
Thx dano
post #4277 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannoooo View Post

Hey WGF
Would you mind posting up your 2d settings for me or at least the ones that are not default, I am a new owner still tweaking my pj, and would love to compare your settings with mine
Thx dano

I'm not even close to being an expert on best video settings. Others here will give you better advice.

For me, most of my settings are default / zero / neutral. Many of the settings are personal preference. For example I actually prefer the detail clarity to be set to neutral on any projector. Others prefer the detail increased to make the picture "pop".

One thing I would note is to be careful with the setting of HDMI SIGNAL LEVEL. I had to set mine to EXPAND for my signal source which is mainly my HTPC. You may notice this in dark scenes. If you have black "crush" (missing detail in dark scenes) you might need to set this to expand. Of course if you turn the brightness down below default then this can also cause black crush.
post #4278 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post

For me, most of my settings are default / zero / neutral. Many of the settings are personal preference. For example I actually prefer the detail clarity to be set to neutral on any projector. Others prefer the detail increased to make the picture "pop".

These are generally my thoughts on settings as well. Most are set to "Off" or "0", but I do my calibrations using 3 different calibration Blu-Rays and found that a setting of "4" on the detail clarity does NOT introduce edge enhancement artifacts and anything less than that results in a blurry picture. The lower the setting, the more blurry the picture became.
post #4279 of 4428
Thanks for the info guys...I will play with the detail clarity when i get home..Did you turn off anything that was by default on?
post #4280 of 4428
Well, just got a refund for my defective AE7000U and ended up purchasing the AE8000U as a replacement ($300 more than my original purchase price for the 7000).

Hopefully the 3D issues don't continue with the AE8000U, otherwise it goes back!
post #4281 of 4428
When did you purchase your 7000 and what was wrong with the 3D?
post #4282 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

When did you purchase your 7000 and what was wrong with the 3D?

Check out my earlier post on prev page where I do a ton of 3D tests resulting in, what I call, "White Screen of Death (WSOD)".

Purchased in December.

Amazon was cool enough to let me return it full price even though it was outside the refund window, and the box was missing.

They earned a customer for life on that one.
post #4283 of 4428
Chet, did you get a chance to see if the settings changes eliminate the cross talk?
post #4284 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post

Chet, did you get a chance to see if the settings changes eliminate the cross talk?

Not yet, but I will.
post #4285 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post

Chet, did you get a chance to see if the settings changes eliminate the cross talk?

Ok. I just tried those settings and I am sorry to say that this only worsened the crosstalk. Big time. For some reason, switching to Normal mode introduces some REALLY bad "stuff" to the image. I call it "stuff" because I don't even know what you call it. It is literally adding things to the picture that was never there in the first place. I have found this to be true in every mode with the exception of D-Cinema.

I will take photos and post what I mean. This "stuff" that I am referring to can be seen with or without the glasses on. I am using the 3rd gen Panasonic glasses BTW.
post #4286 of 4428
After returning my ae7000u just got done hooking up my ae8000u and ran through the WOW disc.

Tested on 3D and so far so good..

I never saw any crosstalk issues with my 7000, and to be honest, I haven't noticed a huge massive improvement with the 8000 (but I've only viewed about 1 hour on it).
post #4287 of 4428
Ok, here is normal mode:


Now here is D-Cinema mode:


This is The Polar Express 3D Blu-ray at 00:06:20.

Notice the ghosted image of the boy in Normal mode is really off color (like using the "burn" mode of a layer in Photoshop. The image of the boy in D-Cinema mode, however is not weird.

The next thing for me to try is to use your other settings, while staying in D-Cinema mode. I will report my findings.
post #4288 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

This is The Polar Express 3D Blu-ray at 00:06:20.

Chet, I don't have that particular 3D movie. Would you happen to have Transformers 3D? WilliamG and I posted pictures of this movie on this thread at this page.

I have these 3D movies to compare with you:
Transformers
Tangled
Tintin
Monsters vs Aliens
Avatar
Despicable Me
The Lion King
Rio 3D

If you have none of these I can order The Polar Express 3D so we have something to compare.
post #4289 of 4428
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post

Chet, I don't have that particular 3D movie. Would you happen to have Transformers 3D? WilliamG and I posted pictures of this movie on this thread at this page.

I have these 3D movies to compare with you:
Transformers
Tangled
Tintin
Monsters vs Aliens
Avatar
Despicable Me
The Lion King
Rio 3D

If you have none of these I can order The Polar Express 3D so we have something to compare.

I have almost every 3D movie out there including all in your list. When I have time (probably tomorrow - running a small business is time consuming wink.gif) I will throw in Transformers and see what I can find. I'll post screenshots again too.
post #4290 of 4428
Also, we may want to post ALL of our settings and not just a few of them. For example, when switching to 'Normal' mode, I am leaving all of the settings at default other than those you listed. This may have something to do with the weird color ghosting I'm seeing in Normal mode.
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