OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 143

I am using svideo and composite. Bit old fashioned but all my cables were burried in the wall a long time ago.

Hello all, I just bought the panny 7000 as my first projector. can someone point me in the right direction as to what features to enable/disable to get the best viewing experience, and/or any recommended starting settings for contrast/brightness, RGB settings etc???
Thx in advance Dan

You should upgrade the hdmi cables. I had the same problem after upgrading from a pt ae100 to pt ae7000. I got some Bluerigger hdmi cables for 3D from ebay or amazon. The newer cables can transmit faster and after I did that the problem went away for good. It also depends on the length of the cable also.

I had the same problem right out of the box. I had to get better hdmi cables rated for 3d and much faster transmission.

I just reviewed a 60ft Monoprice Redmere HDMI using 3D signal, 36-bit colour, 4:4:4 colour space; something that my beloved 40ft other-brand (22AWG) can not pass through.

I have my AE7000 inside a hush-box with dedicated in/out fans, which works well for noise. The problem is the 3D glasses won't work as the signal is not strong enough to escape the box. I need to remove the front of the box to watch 3D movies.

Was wondering if there is a way to route the signal the projector is sending out for the glasses to outside the hush-box? I tried an IR extender, but that didn't work at all - worked for the IR remote, but not the glasses. My hush-box cover has a square glass opening for the image to be projected through, so I was considering a mirror setup in the box to route the signal out that hole. A cleaner solution would be preferred though.

Anyone come across this problem, or have a solution?
Thanks,

You'll need to use Panasonic's IR blaster plugged in directly to the projector. That will work for sure.

Regular IR extender will not work due to the delay and/or differing IR frequency used by the projector.

Thanks David.

Just did some research and it's $329rrp, wowser! Wonder if some ingenious mirror placement, or drilling an extra hole in my hush box cover will assist. Will explore those options first I think.

Has anyone had a white screen freezing issue with 3D Blu-Rays on the AE7000U?

I recently purchased my AE7000U and have experienced no issues in 2D mode (only about 4 hours on the projector).

Last night we tried Prometheus 3D (Blu-ray) and experienced the following freezing issues with the picture:

* After starting the Blu-ray, about 3 minutes in to the movie the screen went completely white (with some slight gradiant) and the power light blinked orange. Audio continued to play. The projector would not respond to remote control input. I had to physically power down the projector and power it back up.

* After the projector was powered back up, the movie ran beautifully in 3D for about 75 minutes. Then the exact same thing happened again and I had to physically power the projector down and back up.

* There were only minor adjustments set for the 3D picture (Brightness +10, IR signal strong).

We live in Colorado at 5500 feet altitude, and the room is 72 degrees. I read about the "HIGH ALTITUDE" mode in the manual after these issues. But I also read about the problems HA mode can introduce in this thread. *

Has anyone else experienced this white screen / freezing in 3D mode?

Is this indicative of a heat or temperature issue?

Trying to decide whether this unit is defective.

.........

* Mention of HIGH ALTITUDE mode issues: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363959/owners-thread-for-the-panasonic-pt-ae7000u-3d-projector/2880

The manual states High Altitude mode will be required for your elevation (> 4593' ... "Failure to do so may shorten the life of the internal parts and result in malfunctions.")

As long as you are using it within its limitations, it should perform as expected. I surmise yours is defective.

Hi Yellowferrari.
You could buy a wireless HDMI transmitter. I'd buyed one and it is working very good. No problems for now.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1372943/best-wireless-hdmi-device#post_21211336

To clarify, these issues occurred without the HIGH ALTITUDE setting, which I only discovered today.

I will try this new setting and test further.

I really hope this isn't defective.. I've had it for 45 days and only now got to test it (we were building out our family room). The Amazon return period is 30 days..

I am hopeful.

Other unexplained stuff can happen when your Viera Link option is enabled. My new PT-AT6000 recently shut down when changing source on my Onkyo.

My Power LED was also flashing Orange at the time and this is what the owners manual states about a flashing orange power LED:

The Power Button is switched on again in the power off preparation mode. Preparing to project. Projecting starts after a brief pause.


This is probably not your case but try and make sure your Viera link is Off.

I tried this again last night with HIGH ALTITUDE option ON and the same thing happened after about 30 min of viewing (white screen of death, need to re-start everything).

I hadn't touched any sources at the time, it was just standard viewing, so I'm not sure what could have interfered with Viera Link. I can repeat this issue at will now.

These symptoms seem to occur only when playing a 3D Blu-ray disc. Other media appears to work without issue.
• About 30min to 1 hour in to a 3D Blu-ray, the projector screen will fill completely white (white screen of death)
○ The projector will not respond to remote commands (or if it does, I cannot tell because nothing appears on screen)
○ The power light will turn orange, then it will blink (perhaps in response to me hitting the remote power button? can't tell)
○ The projector will go in to standby mode after blinking then restart on its own and operate for another hour before doing the same thing


I spoke with Panasonic tech support and they stated this is not standard behavior and the unit may be defective. I am 20 days outside the return window from Amazon, so this is really disappointing since it looks like I will need to send it back to Panasonic. Anybody know what the turnaround time is like?

I kind of want to get a refund and just pick up the AE8000U now since the price keeps dropping :/

It is weird to me that there have been zero other reports of this behavior.

I am going to conduct some experiments later using different sources than my Onkyo TX-NR616 A/V receiver.

.....

Current test in progress: HDMI connection directly from Panasonic BD player to projector (no receiver pass through). Viera Link settings OFF

Playing Hubble 3D Blu-ray.. we'll see how long this plays before getting WSOD (white screen of death)

......

16 minutes in to Hubble 3D and the projector shows white screen. Power button remains green.

I unplugged and re-plugged the HDMI from the source, and it simply turns back to white screen.

.......

Just tried again using a PS3 as the blu-ray player. Same thing happened. white screen

.......

One final test to see if it is the HDMI cable causing the issue. Changing the HDMI cable and running test again.

......

OK - All 3D Blu-ray tests result in a white screen of death (WSOD) from 10 minutes to 1 hour in to viewing. I need to power down the projector and start it up again.

Meanwhile, I've had normal cable TV (non-3D) playing on the projector for about 2 hours with zero issues.

Clearly, this is a 3D issue..

Of course the box has gone missing so Amazon is being wishy-washy on taking it back. I really don't want to send this back to Panasonic and wait ages for a solution :/
Edited by elgordo1 - 2/23/13 at 9:58pm

I'm thinking of buying this instead of the Epson 5020. I currently have an Optoma HD67 with NVidia 3D vision that I'll be replacing with this.
I'm worried about the ghosting on this. Can you guys please advise?

Sure. I can advise. I own this projector and it has so much ghosting that I can't wait to replace it with a better projector. I have a difficult time watching 3D on this projector. I love the 2D picture quality, but 3D fails miserably. Not sure if the 8000 is any better. Nobody will compare the 7000 to the 8000 and I am not taking Panasonic so word for it.

I never noticed any signficant ghosting issues.. of course, I did have to send mine back because I would get "white screen of death" every 10-30 minutes with any type of 3D content.

What is the best 3D projector in this price range? Is it the Epson 5020?

I compared my new 8000 to the 7000 in the 8000 thread and although I didn't mind the ghosting on the 7000, I don't see it at all anymore on the 8000.
All my sources are .mkv bluray rips @1080p Side by Side or Top And Bottom. About 10GB per movie and there is simply much difference between rips but also between Real and Fake 3D. I got about 20 titles that simply don't ghost on the 8000 and were very acceptable on the 7000. In my case BTW a 5000 and 6000 European model.

I don't see difference in 2D between the two but much difference in 3D. Much brighter. I chnaged projectors because of features though. I can now control the 3D mode through RS232, zoom while in 3D and got rid of the Processing notification while gaining much 3D brightness and unnoticably almost doubled the contrast. Very happy with the switch however the 7000 already did the job fine!

Thanks Bumper. It seems as though the 7000 ghosting didn't bother you that much. Since it's really bothersome to me, I wonder if I will notice much ghosting with the 8000. The only way to know that is if I demo it someplace (which likely isn't going to happen).

I haven't posted here in a while. I though I'd put in my input on 3D and the 7000.

Several months back WilliamG and I had done extensive testing on the 3D viewing of the PT-AE7000U projector.

He had ghosting and I had zero on the same movie: Transformers Dark Side Of The Moon 3D . So we exchanged settings and were able to swap results. I could finally force ghosting, and he could finally view with zero ghosting. We were able to prove that the internal temperature of the LCD panels drastically affected ghosting. This makes sense because the LCD response time is directly related to it's temperature. Fast panel response is crucial for 3D viewing or you will see image bleed over (ghosting) meant for the other eye. The temperature of the panels can be affected by some of the settings. For example if you turn HIGH ALTITUDE MODE on, then the fan will run all the time in attempt to make sure the projector is properly cooled. The only problem with that is it will force the temperature of the panels down too much for proper 3D playback. In a similar fashion if you set the LAMP POWER to NORMAL the fan will also run more, again ironically driving the temperature of the panels down too much. These 2 settings are the biggest culprits. This is a design flaw in the 7000 as settings shouldn't affect 3D viewing.

To make matters more difficult for the user to troubleshoot the ghosting problem, the temperature of the panels don't change instantly when you change these settings. It can take minutes for the temperature to change after a settings change. So you might change a setting, and see no difference right away so think that wasn't the solution and hence draw the wrong conclusion. Therefor if you starting viewing before the projector warms up for at least a few minutes then you could have some issues at the start of the movie. Generally this shouldn't be a problem because you probably already have the projector on for several minutes before you actually started the 3D movie.

I know nothing about the 8000 but I would hope they fixed the panel temperature regulation so the settings don't affect 3D. I don't have the 8000 and have read noting about it so I don't know. If you're looking to buy a 3D projector and don't have the 7000, I would think it makes more sense seriously consider the 8000 instead - just read up on it first!

For the 7000, the results of our test determined the best settings for 3D viewing are:

LAMP POWER = ECO
HIGH ALTITUDE MODE = OFF
PICTURE MODE = NORMAL
DETAIL CLARITY = 0
Glasses = NORMAL

Also some people found their cross talk issue was because they used an off brand set of 3D glasses that turned out not to be compatible with this projector. When they got the 3rd gen panny glasses and used these settings their cross talk vanished.

When I watch a 3D movie with these settings there is zero cross talk. If you use these settings and still have cross talk, then I'm at a loss as to why and what else you could do to fix it.
Edited by wgf_bean - 3/2/13 at 6:38pm

I just bought this projector. Don't have my screen yet(120" AT Jamestown), and just displayed it on a wall b/c I'm impatient.

Can't wait. Got all my speakers, receiver, proj, mount, everything but the screen. Can't wait to get the home theater all together.

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I will try these settings, but it seems to me that there are too many compromises being made using these settings. It seems to me that one could either have dark (eco) soft (detail clarity 0) 3D with no cross talk OR bright clear picture quality with tons of crosstalk. I will report my findings after I try your settings and recalibrate using DVE, Spears & Munsil and Disney WOW.

i find my has a high pitch noise, its already been back once under warrenty but the nooise persits. It feels like tinitus sometimes when watching films. does anyone else have the same issue? is it fixable?

Hey WGF
Would you mind posting up your 2d settings for me or at least the ones that are not default, I am a new owner still tweaking my pj, and would love to compare your settings with mine
Thx dano

I'm not even close to being an expert on best video settings. Others here will give you better advice.

For me, most of my settings are default / zero / neutral. Many of the settings are personal preference. For example I actually prefer the detail clarity to be set to neutral on any projector. Others prefer the detail increased to make the picture "pop".

One thing I would note is to be careful with the setting of HDMI SIGNAL LEVEL. I had to set mine to EXPAND for my signal source which is mainly my HTPC. You may notice this in dark scenes. If you have black "crush" (missing detail in dark scenes) you might need to set this to expand. Of course if you turn the brightness down below default then this can also cause black crush.

These are generally my thoughts on settings as well. Most are set to "Off" or "0", but I do my calibrations using 3 different calibration Blu-Rays and found that a setting of "4" on the detail clarity does NOT introduce edge enhancement artifacts and anything less than that results in a blurry picture. The lower the setting, the more blurry the picture became.

Thanks for the info guys...I will play with the detail clarity when i get home..Did you turn off anything that was by default on?

Well, just got a refund for my defective AE7000U and ended up purchasing the AE8000U as a replacement ($300 more than my original purchase price for the 7000).

Hopefully the 3D issues don't continue with the AE8000U, otherwise it goes back!

When did you purchase your 7000 and what was wrong with the 3D?